Disrupting patterns places itself in the textile design field, more precisely in knitting. The aim is to explore cable knitting in combination with fair isle and intarsia designs with the motivation to disrupt the cable structure. The purpose is to give a bold, powerful expression to the cable, compared to the calm, classic look of the Aran sweaters, and in that way give a new perspective on tradition. The project is made by hand on a hand knitting machine for a knitwear design context. The intention is to bring back the value of the textile by focusing on the craftmanship. It is also made as a comment on fast fashion by disrupting the methods of working in the industry. The result is a knit design collection which displays three methods of working with cables. Traditional cable technique, moving stitches and giant cables. These methods are combined with intarsia and fair isle patterns. The methods can be applied in a knitwear design context, for example on a knitted garment. The focus of Disrupting patterns lies in the craft of knitting and is a comment on industrial fabrication and fast fashion implication on sustainable design. While the sustainable aspect is important, the main result of this project lies in the craft of knitting and to show a new method of working with cables and colour pattern techniques.

In this study we looked into an existing textile baby stroller seat and investigated whether there can be any advantage in changing the material to a spacer fabric from perspectives such as functionality, comfort, and sustainability. The subject of 3D knitting, and advanced knitting is being researched more and more because of its versatility in producing and changing parameters of knitted high quality products, but there is a lack of studies done on comfort for children when it comes to knitted spacer fabrics and not many studies have been done on spacer fabrics used for baby seats in strollers or other types of seats for children. A reason for further development and research in the area of 3D knitting is that it could be giving products a better appearance, functionality or potential for more sustainable pro-duction which could lead to better possibilities of producing more attractive advanced textile products. This could in turn make the producer more attractive among customers as well as stand out more amongst competitors on the market. Recently there has been attention on the use of warp knitted spacer fabrics in the application of cushioning to protect against impact. Thermoregulation, compression, air permeability and good energy absorption are some characteristics of spacer fabrics which are being further investigated in this study (Gokarneshan 2015). Another reason for further investigation of spacer fabrics, and their good cushioning properties, in child products is that it was shown in a previous study that children who are transported in carriers for bicycles are exposed to more vibration compared to children who are transported in automotive rides (Rothhamel 2023). A reason for examining the possibilities of replacing polyurethane foam with spacer fabric is that PU foams generally have lower air permeability in com-bination with higher heat resistance which can lead to problems regarding comfort. (Gokarneshan 2015). Testing of different spacer fabric samples was carried out based on air permeability, burst strength, and moisture management. These tests were then evaluated to determine the optimal parameters of a spacer fabric for increased comfort and functionality in an outdoor child product. Other tests that were carried out were specific tests for child products such bite test, finger probe test, and pulling test to examine the safety of each sample. We concluded that the optimal spacer fabric should be constructed of polyester rather than cotton to have as good wicking properties as possible. The fabric should have one side of the spacer fabric that does not consist of mesh so that the requirements from the finger probe test will be fulfilled. The other side of the spacer fabric should be constructed of a mesh structure to ensure good properties of air permeability. The holes should, however, not be too big since this might be less comfortable against the skin. The mesh structure recommended for this purpose is a hexagonal mesh which results in both good permeability of both water and air flow. The fabric should also be constructed with a multifilament for the spacer yarn for safety reasons.

This paper explores how craft in general, and the tradition of machine knitting in particular, can act as support and an alternative method within healing processes connected to stress and burn-out. The paper uses creative writing and an intimate approach to reach for and highlight metaphors and epiphanies within the making of craft, discussed from micro and macro perspectives. The search for the garden of fiber delights includes discussions and reflections about the artistic practice in relation to thinkers as sociologists Bruno Latour and the actor-network theory, and Hartmut Rosa, and his theory about an accelerating society and the need for resonance. Some of the artists referenced in the paper are Hilma af Klint, Yayoi Kusama and Niki de Saint Phalle. The main wonder of this project and paper is: what will happen when I as an artist start to respond to the seed of resonance within, and not follow the norms and expectations emerged by capitalism causing stress? How can this knowledge be applied in the meeting with other people in need of healing and rest?

Denna studie utforskar återuppträdandet av stickning som en populär aktivitet och den roll som online-plattformar spelar för att stödja och upprätthålla denna trend. Genom intervjuer med stickare och analys av online-gemenskaper för stickning visar studien att stickning har upplevt en återkomst på grund av dess nostalgiska och terapeutiska drag, vilket främjar kreativitet, gemenskap och en känsla av samhörighet. Resultaten visar att livshändelser som graviditet, arbetslöshet och Covid-19-pandemin har fått människor att återuppta sitt engagemang för hobbyn. Onlineplattformar, inklusive YouTube, Instagram och online grupper för stickning, har spelat en avgörande roll genom att erbjuda läromedel, inspiration och möjligheter till interaktion och att dela med sig med andra stickare. Skapare av stickrelaterat innehåll på sociala medier värdesätter sin koppling till stickgemenskapen och bygger ofta sina egna gemenskaper, drivna av kreativitet, prestation och viljan att göra en positiv påverkan. Dessutom visar studien att stickning innehar värden som sträcker sig bortom den digitala världen, såsom att främja en långsammare, analog livsstil samt främjandet av hållbarhet. Även om online-gemenskaper för stickning uppskattas finns det en stark önskan bland stickare att engagera sig i offline-miljöer och söka meningsfulla kopplingar bortom den digitala världen. Denna studie bidrar till vår förståelse för stickning som en social praktik och betonar behovet av ett holistiskt perspektiv som beaktar både online- och offlinegemenskaper för stickning. / This thesis explores the re-emergence of knitting as a popular activity and the role of online platforms in supporting and sustaining this trend. Drawing on interviews with knitters and analysis of online knitting communities, the study reveals that knitting has experienced a resurgence due to its nostalgic and therapeutic appeal, fostering creativity, connection, and a sense of community. The findings demonstrate that life events such as pregnancy, unemployment, and the Covid-19 pandemic have triggered people to re-engage with the hobby. Online platforms, including YouTube, Instagram, and online knitting groups, have played a crucial role in providing learning resources, inspiration, and opportunities for interaction and sharing among knitters. Knitting content creators in social media platforms value their connection with the knitting community and often build their own communities, driven by creativity, accomplishment, and the desire to make a positive impact. Moreover, the study reveals that knitting holds values that extend beyond the online realm, such as promoting a slower, analog way of living and fostering sustainability. While online knitting communities are valued, there is a strong desire among knitters to engage in offline settings and seek meaningful connections beyond the digital realm. This research contributes to our understanding of knitting as a social practice and emphasises the need for a holistic perspective that considers both online and offline knitting communities.

No description available.

雲端運算是近來全世界最熱門的資訊議題，任何設備只要能夠連上網路，就可以享有各種不同的網路服務，這些服務可能建置在不同的機器設備上，甚至可能在相隔遙遠的雲端裡，因此也稱之為雲端服務，在操作過程中，使用者不需要擔心服務安裝在哪裡，亦不用擔心服務如何達成，可想而知網路服務的背後，隱藏著很複雜的技術與架構。 網路服務的開發方式相當地簡單且快速，為系統帶來更大的便利與彈性，不過在管理的部份，卻變得越來越複雜，例如不易瞭解網路的結構與狀態、潛在的無窮迴圈及冗餘的流程問題，甚至是在資源共享的情況下，因等待或其他因素而導致死結的情況產生。這些問題將使得網路服務組合在執行時期，可能發生無法預期的錯誤。情況嚴重時，系統可能會完全鎖死或停止，對公司將造成重大的財務及商譽上的損失。這些流程的問題，需要在網路服務組合執行前先進行驗證，本研究透過流程轉換成派翠網路的分析，以確保流程設計的正確性與穩定性。 因此，本論文運用網路服務標準，將雲端服務轉換成派翠網路模型，再以派翠網路中的針織法為分析基礎，檢驗模型的狀態，避免死結發生，並提供網路特徵報告書，以降低管理的複雜度，進而提升服務的穩定性。 / Cloud computing is regarded as the most popular recent ICT topic. Any equipment which can be connected to Internet can provide its user have the access to the various services, which may be built on different machines, or even may exist in the distant 'clouds' far away. However, in the operating process, the user has no need to worry where the service locates, needless to say how the service operates, which means that a considerably amount of data and techniques hide behind the Web service. Web service is an artifical piece of art, the user and the manager can concatenate several Web services online into a bigger one according to the conditions they need, which is a considerably simple and fast developing method bringing more convenience and flexibility for the system. Nonetheless, the managerial part also becomes more complex in problems like potential infinite loops and abundant procedures, for instance. What is worse is under the circumstance of resource sharing, the deadlocks happen while pending or other factors occur. These issues will lead to severe errors while the Web service compound operates. If the system completely locks and stops, serious financial damage and loss of commercial reputation will be caused to the company. Hence the design of procedures needs to be validated and transformed as Petri Net analysis before the Web service compound operates in order to assure the accuracy and stability of the procedure design. Therefore, this paper uses Web service standards, turning Web services into Petri Net models with knitting technique as analytical base, to validate the accuracy and stability of the model to avoid deadlock to happen in order to enhance the reliability of the service.

Mit multiaxialen Gelegen auf Basis der Kettenwirktechnik stehen hervorragende textile Halbzeuge für die Weiterverarbeitung als Verstärkungskomponente in Faser-Kunststoff-Verbunden zur Verfügung. Die bisherige Konfiguration der für die Herstellung dieser Textilien verwendeten Nähwirkmaschinen führt verfahrensbedingt zu einem unsymmetrischen Produktaufbau mit üblicherweise nur einer Fadenlage in Gelegelängsrichtung und ebenso zu Einschränkungen bei der Anordnung des Bindefadens im Textil. Durch die Erweiterung des Nähwirkprozesses wird es möglich, Nähwirkstoffe mit einer beliebigen Abfolge der Einzellagen herzustellen, zum Beispiel in symmetrischer Anordnung. Die neuen Varianten der Lagenanordnung und der Bindungskonstruktion bilden den Ausgangspunkt für die Produktentwicklung am Beispiel zweier Anwendungen aus den Bereichen der Faser-Kunststoff-Verbunde und des textilbewehrten Betons. Hier wird deutlich, dass über die Herstellung symmetrischer Gelege hinaus der Einsatz des erweiterten Wirkprozesses die Eigenschaften der Gelege und der Endprodukte vorteilhaft beeinflussen kann. Aus den untersuchten Beispielen und grundsätzlichen Betrachtungen leitet sich ab, unter welchen maschinentechnischen Voraussetzungen der Einsatz des erweiterten Wirkprozesses sinnvoll ist. Es wird ein Konzept entwickelt, auf dessen Grundlage Nähwirkstoffe mit variabler Lagenanordnung auf Nähwirkmaschinen gefertigt werden können. / Multiaxial multi-ply fabrics made by warp knitting are excellently suited for the application in fiber reinforced composites. The usual configuration of the stitch-bonding machines, which are used to produce these fabrics, necessarily leads to composite laminates with an asymmetric layer arrangement and only one layer of yarns in the zero degree direction of the fabric. The variability of patterning with the binding yarn is also limited. By completing the stitch-bonding process with an additional work step it is possible to produce stitch-bonded fabrics without any restrictions concerning the arrangement of the individual layers in the fabric, for example with a symmetric composition. This is the basis for the development of two exemplary products in the fields of textile reinforced plastics and textile reinforced concrete. It can be shown that the application of the extended stitch-bonding process is advantageous beyond the layer arrangement, positively affecting the mechanical properties of the fabric and the composite. From these examples, conclusions are drawn regarding the configuration of future stitch-bonding machines.

Innovative 3D spacer fabrics made from individual planes and connecting layers present great potential as complexly shaped textile preforms in lightweight composite applications. As one of the most flexible textile manufacturing methods, flat knitting enables the production of intricately shaped textile structures. The major advantages coupled with flat knitting techniques include the ability to produce multi-layer reinforcements, a diminishing waste, reducing production time and near-net shaping. This research includes the further development of flat knitting technology and the manufacturing processes of innovative, customized 3D spacer fabrics for high performance composite applications. Novel 3D spacer fabrics have been developed in different geometries using glass-polypropylene commingled hybrid yarns for complex shaped thermoplastic composite components. Reinforcement yarns have been integrated into spacer fabric structures with up to 4 reinforcement layers to improve mechanical performance. Furthermore, the successful addition of “sensor networks” created by integrating functional yarns into the 3D spacer fabrics could be used for structural health monitoring. Innovative integration concepts, which accommodate different positioning of the reinforcement yarns into the knit structures, can be used to adjust the mechanical properties of the finished knit composites. Moreover, the tensile properties have been accurately predicted based on the mathematical models formulated. The developed flat knitted 3D spacer fabrics are very promising for applications in lightweight composites, mechanical engineering, protective textiles, civil engineering and architectural designs. / Innovative 3D-Spacer Fabrics bestehend aus individuellen Deckflächen und Verbindungsstegen bieten ein großes Potential als komplex geformte textile Halbzeuge für Leichtbauverbundwerkstoffanwendungen. Mit Hilfe des Flachstrickens, welches einer der flexibelsten textilen Herstellungsprozesse ist, lassen sich komplex geformte textile Strukturen herstellen. Belastungsgerechte Verstärkungen, Abfallreduzierung, endkonturnahe Fertigung sind nur einige der großen Vorteile der modernen Flachstricktechnik. Die Forschungsarbeit beinhaltet die Entwicklung der Flachstricktechnologie und des Herstellungsprozesses für innovative 3D-Spacer Fabrics für Hochleistungsverbundwerkstoffe. Neuartige 3D-Spacer Fabrics wurden in unterschiedlichen Geometrien entwickelt, in dem Glas-/ Polypropylen Commingling-Hybridgarn für komplex geformte thermoplastische Verbundwerkstoffkomponenten eingesetzt wird. Verstärkungsfäden wurden für hochmechanische Belastungen in die Spacer-Fabric-Strukturen in bis zu 4 Verstärkungschichten integriert. Die erfolgreiche Umsetzung und Entwicklung von Sensornetzwerken durch die Integration von funktionalen Fäden in die 3D-Spacer Fabrics kann für die strukturelle Zustandsüberwachung genutzt werden. Die innovativen Integrationskonzepte erlauben die differenzierte Orientierung von Verstärkungsfäden in den Gestrickstrukturen, wodurch eine starke Beeinflussung der mechanischen Eigenschaften der Gestrickverbundwerkstoffe herbeigeführt wird. Darüber hinaus wurden die Zugeigenschaften basierend auf den entwickelten mathematischen Modellen vorhergesagt. Die entwickelten flachgestrickten 3D-Spacer Fabrics sind sehr vielversprechend beispielweise für die Anwendung in Leichtbauverbundwerkstoffen, im Maschinenbau, in Schutztextilien, im Bauingenieurwesen und Architekturdesign.

Dieser Beitrag bietet einen Überblick über die in zwölf Jahren Forschungsarbeit am Institut für Textilmaschinen und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik (ITM) erzielten Ergebnisse auf dem Gebiet textiler Betonbewehrungen unter Einsatz der Nähwirktechnik. Standen zunächst die Weiterentwicklung der Nähwirk- bzw. Multiaxial-Kettenwirktechnik und die Integration zusätzlicher Prozessschritte im Mittelpunkt, so wurde dies mit der Einführung neuer Faserwerkstoffe durch die Beantwortung grundlegender Fragen zum Materialverhalten von Glas- und Carbonfasern unter verschiedensten Belastungsszenarien ergänzt. Aufbauend auf den gewonnen Erkenntnissen stehen heute Multiaxialgelege als Bewehrung für Beton zur Verfügung, die ein weites Anforderungsspektrum abdecken können, mit hoher Qualität und Produktivität herstellbar sind und damit den praktischen Einsatz des Textilbetons auf breiter Basis ermöglichen. / This paper provides an overview on the results of textile concrete achieved in twelve years of research at the Institute of Textile Machinery and High Performance Material Technology (ITM) in the field of textile reinforcements for concrete based on the multiaxial stitch-bonding technology. During the early years the research focused on the development of the textile manufacturing process and the integration of additional functions in stitch-bonding machines. With the introduction of new fiber materials this was shifted towards the description of the material behavior of glass and carbon fibers under different load scenarios. Based on the results of this research, multiaxial multi-ply fabrics are available now as reinforcements for concrete, covering a broad range of applications. These fabrics can be produced with high quality and productivity and enable the practical usage of textile reinforced concrete.

The aim of this work is to explore the printed Hawaii shirt through material investigations in search of new print meetings. A vital step for this investigation was to develop the classic Hawaii- prints and motives in mixed media. Followed by exploring alternative printing techniques such as transfer printing, laser cutting and knitting in different materials to reach new expressions yet keeping a clear reference to the Hawaii shirt. The intention of this work was to investigate how the Hawaii shirt with its classic print could interact with the mind and body of the wearer. Furthermore, to question the informal rules of wearing a Hawaii shirt with a starting point in Umberto Eco’s theories about epidemic self-awareness. The motive of this work is to critically look at the society today, with a focus on consumerism, foreign travel and tourism and the expression of it, with the Hawaii shirt as a symbol of these things. Based on the assumption of the Hawaii shirt being a tacky souvenir that tourists bring back home from their holidays. This work show new expressions of the printed Hawaii shirt through innovative print meetings. This work also proposes alternative ways of wearing a Hawaii Shirt.