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Thesis--Bryn Mawr College, 1945. / eContent provider-neutral record in process. Description based on print version record. Bibliography: p. [12-123.

Thesis--Bryn Mawr College, 1945. / Bibliography: p. [12-123.

The focus of this degree work is on material interaction within the field of knitwear. Material combinations are often seen in fashion as a decorative effect to add shine, transparency or blocks of colour. The materials are put together as one flat material. This work embraces the different qualities and explores the possibilities to use material interaction as a way of creating form on the body. To achieve this, material experiments have been made to find combinations that had a big impact on each other. The materials that were found to be most suitable for this were the combination of metal and lycra yarn. This combination showed contrast in both volume and in density. The result is a collection of seven examples that is based from square knitted pieces where the interaction changes the form of the material and the garment. Creating form from material combination could lead to a new method of creating garments with larger form possibilities than is seen today in ready to wear knitted garments.

Since late eighteenth century smocking has been a part of different fields of fashion. From agricultural clothing and swimsuits, and also inspiring architecture. The approach of smocking has always been to tighten the fabric against the body. This work will challenging this by exploring the possibility to build form with smocking on the body, placing it in the context of personas on a winter vacation. By extracting elements of the smocking and sketching directly in the knitting machine using different techniques and yarn with contrasting characteristics, the ambition has been to translate aesthetic aspects of smocking via volume, pattern, material and colour into knitted material, targeting a sporty silhouette and expression. The result show an alternative way to bout fabricate and view the smocking. By letting the technique build form, placing it in a sports context suggest that smocking no longer is a technique solely for romantic dresses.

With inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli’s Bowknot sweater, this work investigates the possibilities to create knitted versions of woven archetypes with the aim to reconstruct sartorial attires through abstraction in knit. This is conducted through the exploration of the construction of the suit jacket, with a focus on the layering of fusing to build shape. The work is abstracted based on the gestalt psychology theory of figure-ground with the purpose to play with the viewer’s perception of what is seen. The concept of figure-ground is also further explored within colour. Based on Carlos Cruz Diez theories of colour and the work titled Couleur Additive a study to create the perception of the colour grey is made. The final result is a menswear collection visualised in a virtual form made with the software CLO3D.

In this project a collection of clothing, based on the handicraft of knitting and crocheting, has been developed. Today most garments are produced on industrial machines, cheaply, fast and with a low quality. An alternative to this is slow fashion which aims for long-lasting, locally manufactured clothing, primarily made from sustainably sourced fair-trade fabrics. The aim of this project is to raise awareness of slow fashion by working with the handicraft of knitting and crochet. The work has a slow process of making, and the items are carefully made by hand which raises the value of the garments and is a more sustainable way of using the materials.  Traditional flat pattern construction is based on symmetrical squares and vertical and horizontal lines. This work's construction is based on diagonal lines around the women's body, as a suggestion that it fits the knitted fabric property and the women's body better. Design decisions were made by looking at renaissance fashion and paintings. To highlight an older way of making fashion and to push the expression in knitwear and show the potential in the craft.

De acordo com o INSTITUTO BRASILEIRO DE GEOGRAFIA E ESTATÍSTICA (IBGE, 2012), só no Brasil existem 45.600.000 pessoas com ao menos um tipo de deficiência, correspondendo a 23,9% da população brasileira. Cada deficiência tem suas necessidades que devem ser consideradas no processo de desenvolvimento de produto. O objetivo deste trabalho é propor uma metodologia para o desenvolvimento de vestuário adaptado para pessoas com deficiência física (cadeirante), com características semelhantes a um vestuário comum, visando aumentar a autoestima, segurança e a qualidade de vida destes indivíduos. Para verificar a validade da metodologia foram aplicados questionários com pacientes e profissionais da área de saúde na rede de reabilitação Lucy Montoro, selecionados no mercado 11 tecidos (07 de malha e 04 denim) e realizados os seguintes ensaios físicos: determinação da gramatura (ASTM D 3776 96), determinação da espessura (ASTM D 1777 06), tendência à formação de pilling (ASTM D 4970 05), tendência a formação de snagging (JIS L 1058), resistência à abrasão (ASM D 4966), determinação do alongamento (JIS L 1018 02), determinação da alteração dimensional (NBR 10320 02) e gestão da umidade (AATCC Test Method 195 01). A partir da análise dos resultados dos ensaios físicos e dos questionários aplicados, foram confeccionados 09 protótipos adaptados. Os resultados obtidos indicaram a viabilidade de aplicação da metodologia proposta para confecção de vestuário adaptado para pessoas com deficiência física (motora) / According to the BRAZILIAN INSTITUTE OF GEOGRAPHY AND STATISTICS (IBGE, 2012), only in Brazil there are 45,600,000 people with at least one kind of disability, which corresponds to 23.9% of the Brazilian population. Each disability has its needs which must be considered in the product development process. The purpose of this paper is to propose a methodology for the development of adapted garments for disabled people (wheelchair users), with similar characteristics to a regular garment, seeking to increase self-esteem, safety and life quality of these individuals. In order to verify the validity of this methodology, questionnaires were applied to patients and professionals in the field of health in the Lucy Montoro Rehabilitation Network, we selected 11 fabrics in the market (7 made of knitwear and 4 made of denim) and made the following physical tests: thickness determination (ASTM D 3776 96), thickness determination (ASTM D 1777 06), tendency to the formation of pilling (ASTM D 4970 05), tendency to the formation of snagging (JIS L 1058), resistance to abrasion (ASM D 4966), stretching determination (JIS L 1018 02), determination of dimensional changes (NBR 10320 02) and moisture management (AATCC Test Method 195 01). From the analysis of the physical tests and the questionnaires applied, 09 adapted prototypes were made. The results indicate the viability of application of the proposed methodology for the manufacturing of adapted garments for disabled people (motion)

O objetivo deste estudo é verificar qual é a efetiva contribuição prática que o monitoramento da tensão do elastano durante o processo produtivo de tecidos destinados à moda esportiva, terá sobre as características de gramatura e elasticidade, esta última traduzida como força de recuperação do tecido, na tentativa de tornar o processo mais eficiente no atendimento dos anseios dos clientes em ter o \"handle\" ou \"mão\" do tecido apresentando elevado \"power\" ou resistência ao alongamento, avaliação subjetiva muito utilizada nas confecções de artigos para fitness e moda esportiva em geral e que deve ser cientificamente parametrizada em termos de processo de forma a garantir que tais necessidades sejam atendidas. Para a manutenção de um único padrão de regulagem a ser estudado, e o estudo livre de outras variáveis, o L.F.A. e a tensão do fio de poliamida são mantidos constantes. Foi aplicado um monitoramento da tensão do elastano para mantê-lo na condição mais alta afim de evitar suas variações a menor, causada pelas variações da matéria prima, o que teoricamente leva ao empobrecimento desta força ou mão. Através deste monitoramento foi possível constatar por análise estatística, uma melhora no índice de capacidade do processo com maior número de peças dentro das faixas desejadas para o produto com suas médias mostrando o ganho de força sem alterações significativas da gramatura dos produtos conforme premissa inicial / The aim of this study is to determine what is the effective practical contribution to the monitoring of elastane tension during the production of knitted fabrics for the sports fashion, mainly on the characteristics of fabric weight and elasticity, the latter translated as tissue recovery strength, attempt to make the process more efficient in customer desires of service to have the \"handle\" or \"hand\" of the fabric featuring high \"power\" or resistance to stretching, subjective evaluation widely used in clothing articles for fitness and sports fashion in general and must be scientifically parameterized in terms of the process to ensure that these needs are met. In order to maintain a single standard regulation to be studied, and the free study other variables, L.F.A. and the tension of polyamide yarn is kept constant. The monitoring of the elastane tension was applied to keep it in the highest condition in order to prevent their smaller the variations caused by variations of the raw material, which theoretically leads to the impoverishment of this force or hand. Through this monitoring, it was verified by statistical analysis, an improvement in the capacity index of the process with the largest number of parts within the desired ranges for the product with their average showing strength gains without significant changes in the fabric weight of the product as initial premise

Esse estudo contempla uma pesquisa bibliográfica sobre a malharia retilínea, seu processo produtivo, tecnologia, versatilidade criativa e processo de desenvolvimento de produto. Inclui uma pesquisa de campo no Polo Industrial do Sul de Minas Gerais (regiões de Monte Sião e Águas de Lindóia), cidades de alta concentração de indústrias de Malharia retilínea. O objetivo dessa dissertação é explorar o desenvolvimento de produto em Vestuário de Moda da Malharia Retilínea (VMMR), captando as variáveis que influenciam no grau de inovação dos produtos, bem como a capacidade de atingir o objetivo estético idealizado e a viabilidade produtiva. Para atingir esse objetivo, apresenta-se a cadeia de suprimentos do produto de VMMR, bem como a evolução dos recursos tecnológicos das máquinas retilíneas. A fim de compreender o processo criativo no desenvolvimento de produto de moda em malharia retilínea, é fundamental examinar de perto a contribuição dos elos da cadeia de abastecimento. A percepção dos elos da cadeia é fundamental, pois o processo de criação evolui junto com o desenvolvimento tecnológico das máquinas e dos fios. No entanto, a inovação depende do conhecimento e interação consistente dos profissionais de criação, designers, modelistas e programadores de software. A fim de compreender o processo de criação no desenvolvimento de produto e os desafios enfrentados pelos designers, é realizada uma pesquisa na história da malharia e conceitos de moda. Para desenvolver uma coleção a criatividade do estilista passa pela história pessoal, suas experiências e suas qualidades de estilo sobre determinada técnica manual e mental. Com a intenção de importar de outras áreas conhecimentos importantes para o processo de desenvolvimento de produto no VMMR, também foram explorados alguns métodos de desenvolvimento de produto em engenharia, o que permite a divisão do processo de criação em etapas e a estruturação de conceitos. Por fim, foi realizada uma pesquisa de campo com dez empresas confeccionistas de VMMR e quatro empresas de referência do Polo Sul de Minas Gerais, através da qual foi possível identificar padrões aplicados no desenvolvimento de produto, seus processos criativos, bem como os seus níveis profissionais. Com isso, espera-se gerar informações importantes nesta pesquisa, a fim de contribuir para o desenvolvimento da indústria de vestuário em malharia retilínea / This study covers literature research about knitwear, the production process, technology, creative versatility and product development. It also includes field research based in the south of Minas Gerais (regiões de Monte Sião, e Águas de Lindóia), a place with a high concentration of knitwear companies. The focus of the field research consists of case studies in ten industrial companies and three technological leading centres of the region. The purpose of this dissertation is to explore the product development process in fashion clothes knitwear in Brasil, capturing the variables that influence the degree of product innovation, as well as the ability to achieve the idealized aesthetic goals, and to create viable products. To explore this subject, the knitwear product supply chain is presented, as well as the evolution of technological resources, including flat knitting machines. In order to understand the creative process in fashion knitwear, it is critical to closely examine the contribution and influence of the extended supply chain. The supply chain is crucial because the process of product creation includes the technological development of machines and yarns. However, innovation also depends on the knowledge and robust interaction of fashion designers, product10 modelers and software programmers. In order to understand the creation product development process and the challenges that have faced, and continue to face designers, and overview of the history of knitting and knitting technologies is explored. Upon examination, it is possible to observe that there are several ways to develop a collection, as the designer creativity depends on his own specific experiences and ability with certain manual techniques and mental models. In order to bring from other areas important knowledge for the development process in knitwear, it was also explored some product development methods in engineering, allowing the division of this process in structured concepts. Finally, it was made a field research with ten clothing manufacturers companies and other important players in the South Minas Gerais Area, including two suppliers of knitting machines, through which it identified applicable standards of the product development of these companies as well as their professional levels. It was expected to generate important information in this research, in order to contribute to the development of the knitting industry and their professionals