The purpose of this research is to investigate the power and postcolonial meanings of lingerie for urban Indian professional women (UIPW) living in India to better understand the consumer behaviour of lingerie consumption. This critical marketing studies thesis adds to the existing studies of lingerie to argue that little is understood about the social meanings behind the growth in lingerie in India. It analyses the ways in which lingerie is instrumental to how urban Indian women sartorially negotiate colonial and national tensions of sexual identity. An interdisciplinary conceptual framework utilising Foucauldian power and an original application of Saidian orientalism are used to critique lingerie advertising practices in India and its implications for developing the discourse of cross-cultural consumer behaviour for postcolonial contexts. An interdisciplinary, interpretive, qualitative, mixed methods case study approach was undertaken in the urban Indian cities of Delhi and Bombay between the periods 2010 – 2014. The research design consisted of: a content analysis of lingerie advertising in the magazines Vogue India and Femina between the post-media-liberalisation years 2003 to 2014; visual and textual analysis of lingerie in three selective Indian films; 106 semistructured surveys conducted amongst UIPW in the urban cities of Delhi and Bombay; two focus groups in Bombay and Delhi and fifteen in-depth interviews. Data analysis included SPSS analysis and discourse analysis. Findings reveal the contradictory ways in which female sartorial identity in India is caught up in competing postcolonial forces of control and resistance demarcated along the lines of cultural, social and economic capital, therefore differing from existing western studies of lingerie. Findings show current global marketing practices still operate within western marketing frameworks, perpetuating social inequalities and are failing to be congruent with multiple and alternative feminine identities. Findings empirically reinforce the importance of postcolonial theory for original socio-cultural consumer behaviour insight and the development of global marketing strategy.

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Scoliosis of the spine is defined as a side-to-side deviation from the normal frontal axis of the body resulting in body asymmetry, and as a complex, three-dimensional and multifaceted deformity, not only affects a female adolescent’s appearance - fit, usability and appearance of clothing - but can also compromise her health and ability to function. Scoliosis affects at least 2.9% of the population in Greece, appearing particularly among children aged 8-14 years, and more frequently in girls (9 girls for 1 boy). This study traces previous initiatives and current provision for clothing people with divergent body figures, exploring issues at the intersection of human anatomy and fashion, while it takes place in Greece, starting with measuring procedures specifically adapted for body asymmetry that comply with the appropriate code of ethics. External body measurements provide non-invasive evaluation of changes in external asymmetry due to scoliosis, while analysis of the measurements related to the trunk can document the asymmetry arising from the different types and degrees of spinal curvature, providing a 3D classification of scoliotic deformities. Both right and left body halves of 75 females aged 16-22 years of age, diagnosed with Adolescent Idiopathic Scoliosis (AIS), are measured in order to register their different body shapes and to classify them in different scoliotic groups, according to the magnitude and type of their scoliosis. The asymmetric basic pattern blocks derived from the median body measurements for each scoliotic group will be more tolerant of bodies with scoliosis, providing a better garment fit than conventional symmetrical patterns. These new ‘blocks’ will have the potential to be used in mass production, after the development of sizing systems based on body asymmetry, whereby an ‘aesthetic’ and an ‘ethical’ dimension in design could be then incorporated. Applying auto-ethnography, as well as using participant observation and interviewing methods, this research will help gain a deeper understanding of the culture and the needs of the specific target group. Future challenges relate to design perspectives of fashionable clothing for females with non-standard body dimensions, with particular emphasis on scoliosis, having potential for wider application in mass customised apparel for scoliosis.

En el presente trabajo de investigación se realiza la descripción y el análisis de la posible relación entre los Drivers del Webrooming con el proceso de compra, considerando las blusas dentro de las tiendas departamentales como categoría del trabajo. En segundo lugar, es relevante conocer si es cuál es la importancia de estos drivers para la usuaria de Lima Metropolitana de 18 a 34 años, además de cuáles otros drivers se pueden identificar durante el proceso de compra. En el primer capítulo, se describe los términos relevantes para el tema y la actualidad, haciendo énfasis en las variables que influyen en la variable independiente: drivers del Webrooming. En el segundo capítulo, se explicará la metodología a desarrollar durante el trabajo. En el tercer capítulo, desarrollará el análisis de resultados cualitativos para concluir con ideas y recomendaciones que permitan validar las hipótesis realizadas, respondiendo el objetivo general y específico del trabajo de investigación. Finalmente, en el cuarto capítulo, se analizarán los datos cuantitativos, permitiendo obtener conclusiones propias y recomendaciones hacia el tema. / This research work makes the description and analysis of the possible relationship between Webrooming Drivers with the purchase process, blouses within department stores as a category of work. Secondly, it is relevant to know if it is relevant is the importance of these controllers for users of Metropolitan Lima from 18 to 34 years, in addition to other controllers that can identify during the purchase process. In the first chapter, describe the relevant terms for the topic and current affairs, emphasizing the variables that influence the independent variable: Webrooming drivers. In the second chapter, the methodology to be developed during the work is explained. In the third chapter, he will develop the analysis of qualitative results to conclude with ideas and recommendations that validate the hypotheses made, answering the general and specific objective of the research work. Finally, in the fourth chapter, analyze the quantitative data, obtain your own conclusions and recommendations on the subject. / Trabajo de investigación

In this project a collection of clothing, based on the handicraft of knitting and crocheting, has been developed. Today most garments are produced on industrial machines, cheaply, fast and with a low quality. An alternative to this is slow fashion which aims for long-lasting, locally manufactured clothing, primarily made from sustainably sourced fair-trade fabrics. The aim of this project is to raise awareness of slow fashion by working with the handicraft of knitting and crochet. The work has a slow process of making, and the items are carefully made by hand which raises the value of the garments and is a more sustainable way of using the materials.  Traditional flat pattern construction is based on symmetrical squares and vertical and horizontal lines. This work's construction is based on diagonal lines around the women's body, as a suggestion that it fits the knitted fabric property and the women's body better. Design decisions were made by looking at renaissance fashion and paintings. To highlight an older way of making fashion and to push the expression in knitwear and show the potential in the craft.

<p>Abstract</p><p>Date: 2008 May 28</p><p>Course: Master Thesis</p><p>Authors: Ka Yu Seto and Olena Zastezhko</p><p>Tutor: Carl Thunman</p><p>Title: How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market?</p><p>Introduction:</p><p>Japan is one of the largest and most sophisticated clothing markets in the world, and its fashion designs and products quality enjoy high reputation from world-wide. Because of keen competition in the domestic market, fashion retail chains find it necessary to search for new markets Asia’s potential has been already extensively exploited for decades. Thus, in order to further expand, Europe should be considered for the next step in nternationalization. Germany seems to be a good choice, since it has huge population, large market value and is located in the centre of Europe. There has been a number of studies published about foreign retailers entering Japan, however, only few researches consider moves of the Japanese retailers to other countries, to Asia in particular. In order to fill in the information gap the current study was conducted. It focuses on investigating the German menswear and womenswear markets from the perspective of potential for the Japanese SPAs.</p><p>Purpose:</p><p>The purpose of the thesis is to describe German apparel market and to examine how the Japanese SPAs can enter it. The research is limited to the German menswear and womenswear markets, which target men and women aged 15 and above. Finally, the research is aimed at providing recommendations for the Japanese SPAs regarding planning marketing strategies when entering the German market.</p><p>Method:</p><p>Primary: The primary data was received through conducting three semi-structured interviews with experts in fashion industry in Germany, who can give professional overview of the German fashion market. The aim was to obtain the latest information related to the fashion market conditions, consumers’ expectations and their purchasing habits, as well as factors that are not covered by the previous studies, but are crucial for the current research.</p><p>Secondary: The secondary data was collected mostly via Internet; however a number of printed publications was used as well. Market reports by such marketing agencies as CBI, Datamonitor, ACNielson and Euromonitor became the basis for the research. Other scientific sources were retrieved through electronic databases such as ABI/ Inform, EBSCO, Emerald, ELIN@Mälardalen, Google and Google Scholar. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and books Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues (Hines & Bruce, 2007) and Fashion Design (Jones, 2005) provided latest insights into current trends in fashion marketing, as well as introduced main concepts of the studied area.</p><p>Theoretical Model:</p><p>Existing studies contribute a lot to identifying crucial variables concerning fashion marketing. However, there is no available model that can fulfill the purpose of the current research. That is why a new model was developed in order to achieve the aim of the thesis. Since the purpose is to describe the German fast fashion market four factors influencing it were identified. They are categorized as follows: Market Environment in Germany, Competition, Activities in the Market and German Customers. Within each factor a set of variables was distinguished and analyzed. Market Environment in Germany factor covers macro and micro environments; Competition factor is analyzed in terms of positioning and branding of the major competitors; Activities in the Market factor discusses 4Ps and customer service; and German Customers factor reveals consumer behavior aspects as well as attitudes of Germans to branding and country of origin. German sizes are also covered within this factor. The created model helps identify market situaton the Japanese SPAs will face when entering the German fast fashion market.</p><p>Analysis and Conclusion:</p><p>The study revealed that though the German apparel market is highly competitive it is also an attractive one for apparel companies and there is a place for newcomers who can differentiate themselves from the majority. Since there exist some gaps in the market supply in terms of quality/price and fashion/quality ratios, those Japanese SPAs who will be able to cover these gaps can have good potential in the German fast fashion market. This means that those Japanese SPAs who can supply apparel of good quality, with fashionable designs, but at the same time at competitive prices can find favorable positions in the market. In addition, as new comers the Japanese SPAs need to ensure that they can satisfy quick response requirement which is crucial to the fast fashion industry, and this can become a challenge. Also, the research revealed that the German customers are brand conscious, thus it is important for the Japanese SPAs to build brand awareness and brand reputation among Germans. Moreover, the Japanese SPAs need to identify target segments which they can serve at their best. A set of recommendations provided in the thesis regarding marketing strategies shows how the German market conditions can be used for creating advantages for the Japanese SPAs.</p>

Abstract Date: 2008 May 28 Course: Master Thesis Authors: Ka Yu Seto and Olena Zastezhko Tutor: Carl Thunman Title: How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market? Introduction: Japan is one of the largest and most sophisticated clothing markets in the world, and its fashion designs and products quality enjoy high reputation from world-wide. Because of keen competition in the domestic market, fashion retail chains find it necessary to search for new markets Asia’s potential has been already extensively exploited for decades. Thus, in order to further expand, Europe should be considered for the next step in nternationalization. Germany seems to be a good choice, since it has huge population, large market value and is located in the centre of Europe. There has been a number of studies published about foreign retailers entering Japan, however, only few researches consider moves of the Japanese retailers to other countries, to Asia in particular. In order to fill in the information gap the current study was conducted. It focuses on investigating the German menswear and womenswear markets from the perspective of potential for the Japanese SPAs. Purpose: The purpose of the thesis is to describe German apparel market and to examine how the Japanese SPAs can enter it. The research is limited to the German menswear and womenswear markets, which target men and women aged 15 and above. Finally, the research is aimed at providing recommendations for the Japanese SPAs regarding planning marketing strategies when entering the German market. Method: Primary: The primary data was received through conducting three semi-structured interviews with experts in fashion industry in Germany, who can give professional overview of the German fashion market. The aim was to obtain the latest information related to the fashion market conditions, consumers’ expectations and their purchasing habits, as well as factors that are not covered by the previous studies, but are crucial for the current research. Secondary: The secondary data was collected mostly via Internet; however a number of printed publications was used as well. Market reports by such marketing agencies as CBI, Datamonitor, ACNielson and Euromonitor became the basis for the research. Other scientific sources were retrieved through electronic databases such as ABI/ Inform, EBSCO, Emerald, ELIN@Mälardalen, Google and Google Scholar. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and books Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues (Hines &amp; Bruce, 2007) and Fashion Design (Jones, 2005) provided latest insights into current trends in fashion marketing, as well as introduced main concepts of the studied area. Theoretical Model: Existing studies contribute a lot to identifying crucial variables concerning fashion marketing. However, there is no available model that can fulfill the purpose of the current research. That is why a new model was developed in order to achieve the aim of the thesis. Since the purpose is to describe the German fast fashion market four factors influencing it were identified. They are categorized as follows: Market Environment in Germany, Competition, Activities in the Market and German Customers. Within each factor a set of variables was distinguished and analyzed. Market Environment in Germany factor covers macro and micro environments; Competition factor is analyzed in terms of positioning and branding of the major competitors; Activities in the Market factor discusses 4Ps and customer service; and German Customers factor reveals consumer behavior aspects as well as attitudes of Germans to branding and country of origin. German sizes are also covered within this factor. The created model helps identify market situaton the Japanese SPAs will face when entering the German fast fashion market. Analysis and Conclusion: The study revealed that though the German apparel market is highly competitive it is also an attractive one for apparel companies and there is a place for newcomers who can differentiate themselves from the majority. Since there exist some gaps in the market supply in terms of quality/price and fashion/quality ratios, those Japanese SPAs who will be able to cover these gaps can have good potential in the German fast fashion market. This means that those Japanese SPAs who can supply apparel of good quality, with fashionable designs, but at the same time at competitive prices can find favorable positions in the market. In addition, as new comers the Japanese SPAs need to ensure that they can satisfy quick response requirement which is crucial to the fast fashion industry, and this can become a challenge. Also, the research revealed that the German customers are brand conscious, thus it is important for the Japanese SPAs to build brand awareness and brand reputation among Germans. Moreover, the Japanese SPAs need to identify target segments which they can serve at their best. A set of recommendations provided in the thesis regarding marketing strategies shows how the German market conditions can be used for creating advantages for the Japanese SPAs.

The idea of this thesis is to achieve deeper understanding of how gender is materialised in the retail environments of brands challenging the traditional division between male and female especially in their marketing and style direction. Furthermore, the research aims to give deeper understanding on how the gendered shop environments are understood by a sample of Millennial consumers and how the consumers reflect on gender in these settings. Using varying data collection methods from in-store observations to go-along interviews with participants chosen with purposive sampling technique, the thesis uses qualitative method as a research tool and further analyses the data upon framework of servicescape theory. Using constructivist grounded theory as main analysis method, the findings suggest that there are significant differences between merchandising womenswear and menswear assortments. The research also indicates that among Millennial consumers there is clear interest and market potential towards the assortment of opposite gender, and the consumers also recognise the gendered differences in the materialised retail environments.

El proyecto permite determinar la factibilidad y viabilidad de la idea de confección de trusas a base de fibras de bambú, con el fin de prevenir las infecciones vaginales y a la vez ofrecer variedad de diseños. Se demostró que existe problema de infecciones vaginales por medio de fuentes secundarias y primarias, aproximadamente 3 de cada 4 mujeres han tenido por lo menos 1 infección vaginal a lo largo de su vida. En las entrevistas realizadas, el 60% respondió que SÍ había tenido infecciones vaginales, mientras que el otro 40% había tenido pero muy pocas veces. Esta información permite al proyecto sondear la demanda con el fin de poder conocer si hay mercado para este producto. El proyecto es escalable ya que se puede aplicar a otras realidades. El proyecto necesita una inversión de S/. 200,357.60 soles, el cual tiene una tasa de retorno de 81% en los 3 años de vida del proyecto, tomando en cuenta que el COK es de 14.12%, y es la rentabilidad de los inversionistas. El VAN es de S/. 276,139.09 soles y la recuperación del capital es de 1.2 años, lo cual indica que ganaría este importe adicional respecto a la inversión inicial y el costo de oportunidad de los accionistas. El proyecto contempla análisis de riesgos en diversos escenarios como el pesimista, normal y optimista, en todos los escenarios el VAN es positivo superior a los S/. 100,000 soles y la Tasa Interna de Retorno (TIR) mayor al costo de oportunidad, en todo el caso mayor al 50%. Para llevar a cabo el proyecto se cuenta con un equipo de trabajo con experiencia en el sector financiero, ventas, textiles, además se incorporará al proyecto personal calificado en las diversas áreas requeridas. / The project allows to determine the feasibility and viability of the idea of making trusses based on bamboo fibers, in order to prevent vaginal infections and at the same time offer a variety of designs. It was shown that there is a problem of vaginal infections through secondary and primary sources; approximately 3 out of 4 women have had at least 1 vaginal infection throughout their lives. In the interviews carried out, 60% answered that they DID have had vaginal infections, while the other 40% had had but very few times. This information allows the project to probe demand in order to know if there is a market for this product. The project is scalable since it can be applied to other realities. The project needs an investment of S/ 200,357.60 soles, which has a return rate of 81% in the 3-year life of the project, taking into account that the COK is 14.12%, and is the profitability of investors. The NPV is S /. 276,139.09 soles and the capital recovery are 1.2 years, which indicates that it would earn this additional amount with respect to the initial investment and the opportunity cost of the shareholders. The project contemplates risk analysis in various scenarios such as pessimistic, normal and optimistic, in all scenarios the NPV is positive above S /. 100,000 soles and the Internal Rate of Return (IRR) greater than the opportunity cost, in all cases greater than 50%. To carry out the project, there is a work team with experience in the financial sector, sales, textiles, and qualified personnel will be incorporated into the project in the various areas required. / Trabajo de investigación

No description available.