The focus of this thesis is the promotions of a range of male fashions and sportswear by professional football players 1950-1985. The interpretation of these images is not confined to the promotions themselves but instead adopts a broader approach that embraces the narratives surrounding the promotions and their place within football histories and the wider social context. An essential part of the thesis is a detailed analysis of the relationships that developed between football players, as individuals or part of a team, and the fashion retail industries and sportswear companies. Case studies contribute to an understanding of the practices around the production and consumption of these promotions and explain the rationale for each event and preference for a particular player. The research employs a mixed methodology that draws on archival research, both documentary and visual, as well as evidence from contemporary newspapers and popular and trade magazines. The archival evidence is augmented by oral testimonies from football players involved in the promotions, and from friends and other observers. To this is added research into the clothes, sourced in museums and private homes. A final approach is evidence of the geographic locations of the football clubs and the archival material on display in the trophy rooms. This thesis brings together the histories of male fashion and football. It uncovers the key role of the player, in promoting a wide range of clothing and accessories directed predominantly at a male market place, and provides new evidence that contributes to a neglected field of study within both disciplines.

In terms of dress, there are various misconceptions that exist in our ever-so conscious society, which can make Easterners in the Occident neglect aesthetics that are linked to their roots. Orientalist notions of the Middle East and its complex history of conflict have both played their part in developing a cultural disconnection between the East and the Western world. This area of investigation explores the recontextualization of a selection of original and cultural elements from the Levant and Arabian Peninsula by the means of construction within men’s suits, thobes and accompanying traditional attire. The work implies to challenge the Western world’s dominant influence on fashion, where it becomes crucial to assert cultural aspects linked to facts and aesthetic value. What could be deemed as lacking in fashion is an intricate appropriation of Levantine and Arabian elements in relation to shape, proportion and material. In this exploration, it is executed through placing the selected components alongside Westerly ‘reserved’ categories such as the exaggerated shoulder pad, where each action is influenced by the outcome of the previous. The result can be described as a convergence between expressions that are culturally polarizing, which can reinvent the narrative of Westerly misperceived dress and symbols that are both ubiquitous and preserved in the transcultural region.

Background: During the last decade or so the century old bespoke tailors on Savile Row have become the epitome of luxury brands as far as menswear is concerned. At the same time, the different establishments on Savile Row have started to modernise themselves through various means to better fit into today’s fast paced retail-market. Aims of the research: The purpose of this research is to discover what factors have played part in keeping the founders of Savile Row, Henry Poole & Co., modern and relevant throughout the years. Methods: This research was conducted as a qualitative single case, case study. The data was gathered through semi-structured interviews with upper management and other available published sources and then analysed with the help of former research in relevant areas. Results: It was found that the brand of Henry Poole & Co. stayed true to their origins as a bespoke tailor and that modernising is something that has not been forced upon the company and brand but should more be seen as a continuous process where each new generation bring something new to the company. The company had adapted modern ways of communication such as social media and a responsive website and also incorporated step down line extensions, where they sell ready-to-wear and made-to-measure garments in China and Japan. This is a way to develop their brand into other segments but they still kept their original brand vision intact as being a pure bespoke tailor located on Savile Row and kept their different business operations on a distance. Contributions: This thesis has opened up doors to an area that has not had much interest from the academic world. It hopefully gives way for new research ideas, but it has also highlighted management tools and best practices that has contributed to the success of a more than two century old company.

The perception of the expression of traditional handcrafts needs to be challenged. Therefore his bachelor degree work aims to develop new expressions in contemporary men`s wear through experimentations with tubular braiding. This works aims to utilize and express a progressive approach of the technique in terms of materials and method with the desire to create a contemporary expression when a handcraft method is utilized in fashion Starting to explore the handcraft technique braiding the tubular braiding technique was found. While the technique itself is similar in expression and properties to flat braiding the tubular braiding opens up for other possibilities for garment construction. Using the tubular braid as a starting point, the aim is to explore new ways of constructing contemporary menswear garments with the technique itself as well to construct new materials and find to a new expressions. The work also deals with the gap between the technique flat braiding, tubular braiding, construction and materials with different properties altering the initial expression of the technique. By experimenting with unconventional materials and scale for such an handcraft technique as braiding the expression and the traditional view of braiding and its construction and use will be altered and questioned - discovering that the tubular braid has possibilities to construct or sculpt garments on the body in a seamless manner. Hopefully machine-engineers of the future can invent new and progressive braiding processes to create fabrics for commercial application in fashion and also understand the potential of the tubular braiding method formed by the examples here. / <p>Program: Modedesignutbildningen</p>

<p>Abstract</p><p>Date: 2008 May 28</p><p>Course: Master Thesis</p><p>Authors: Ka Yu Seto and Olena Zastezhko</p><p>Tutor: Carl Thunman</p><p>Title: How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market?</p><p>Introduction:</p><p>Japan is one of the largest and most sophisticated clothing markets in the world, and its fashion designs and products quality enjoy high reputation from world-wide. Because of keen competition in the domestic market, fashion retail chains find it necessary to search for new markets Asia’s potential has been already extensively exploited for decades. Thus, in order to further expand, Europe should be considered for the next step in nternationalization. Germany seems to be a good choice, since it has huge population, large market value and is located in the centre of Europe. There has been a number of studies published about foreign retailers entering Japan, however, only few researches consider moves of the Japanese retailers to other countries, to Asia in particular. In order to fill in the information gap the current study was conducted. It focuses on investigating the German menswear and womenswear markets from the perspective of potential for the Japanese SPAs.</p><p>Purpose:</p><p>The purpose of the thesis is to describe German apparel market and to examine how the Japanese SPAs can enter it. The research is limited to the German menswear and womenswear markets, which target men and women aged 15 and above. Finally, the research is aimed at providing recommendations for the Japanese SPAs regarding planning marketing strategies when entering the German market.</p><p>Method:</p><p>Primary: The primary data was received through conducting three semi-structured interviews with experts in fashion industry in Germany, who can give professional overview of the German fashion market. The aim was to obtain the latest information related to the fashion market conditions, consumers’ expectations and their purchasing habits, as well as factors that are not covered by the previous studies, but are crucial for the current research.</p><p>Secondary: The secondary data was collected mostly via Internet; however a number of printed publications was used as well. Market reports by such marketing agencies as CBI, Datamonitor, ACNielson and Euromonitor became the basis for the research. Other scientific sources were retrieved through electronic databases such as ABI/ Inform, EBSCO, Emerald, ELIN@Mälardalen, Google and Google Scholar. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and books Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues (Hines & Bruce, 2007) and Fashion Design (Jones, 2005) provided latest insights into current trends in fashion marketing, as well as introduced main concepts of the studied area.</p><p>Theoretical Model:</p><p>Existing studies contribute a lot to identifying crucial variables concerning fashion marketing. However, there is no available model that can fulfill the purpose of the current research. That is why a new model was developed in order to achieve the aim of the thesis. Since the purpose is to describe the German fast fashion market four factors influencing it were identified. They are categorized as follows: Market Environment in Germany, Competition, Activities in the Market and German Customers. Within each factor a set of variables was distinguished and analyzed. Market Environment in Germany factor covers macro and micro environments; Competition factor is analyzed in terms of positioning and branding of the major competitors; Activities in the Market factor discusses 4Ps and customer service; and German Customers factor reveals consumer behavior aspects as well as attitudes of Germans to branding and country of origin. German sizes are also covered within this factor. The created model helps identify market situaton the Japanese SPAs will face when entering the German fast fashion market.</p><p>Analysis and Conclusion:</p><p>The study revealed that though the German apparel market is highly competitive it is also an attractive one for apparel companies and there is a place for newcomers who can differentiate themselves from the majority. Since there exist some gaps in the market supply in terms of quality/price and fashion/quality ratios, those Japanese SPAs who will be able to cover these gaps can have good potential in the German fast fashion market. This means that those Japanese SPAs who can supply apparel of good quality, with fashionable designs, but at the same time at competitive prices can find favorable positions in the market. In addition, as new comers the Japanese SPAs need to ensure that they can satisfy quick response requirement which is crucial to the fast fashion industry, and this can become a challenge. Also, the research revealed that the German customers are brand conscious, thus it is important for the Japanese SPAs to build brand awareness and brand reputation among Germans. Moreover, the Japanese SPAs need to identify target segments which they can serve at their best. A set of recommendations provided in the thesis regarding marketing strategies shows how the German market conditions can be used for creating advantages for the Japanese SPAs.</p>

Abstract Date: 2008 May 28 Course: Master Thesis Authors: Ka Yu Seto and Olena Zastezhko Tutor: Carl Thunman Title: How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market? Introduction: Japan is one of the largest and most sophisticated clothing markets in the world, and its fashion designs and products quality enjoy high reputation from world-wide. Because of keen competition in the domestic market, fashion retail chains find it necessary to search for new markets Asia’s potential has been already extensively exploited for decades. Thus, in order to further expand, Europe should be considered for the next step in nternationalization. Germany seems to be a good choice, since it has huge population, large market value and is located in the centre of Europe. There has been a number of studies published about foreign retailers entering Japan, however, only few researches consider moves of the Japanese retailers to other countries, to Asia in particular. In order to fill in the information gap the current study was conducted. It focuses on investigating the German menswear and womenswear markets from the perspective of potential for the Japanese SPAs. Purpose: The purpose of the thesis is to describe German apparel market and to examine how the Japanese SPAs can enter it. The research is limited to the German menswear and womenswear markets, which target men and women aged 15 and above. Finally, the research is aimed at providing recommendations for the Japanese SPAs regarding planning marketing strategies when entering the German market. Method: Primary: The primary data was received through conducting three semi-structured interviews with experts in fashion industry in Germany, who can give professional overview of the German fashion market. The aim was to obtain the latest information related to the fashion market conditions, consumers’ expectations and their purchasing habits, as well as factors that are not covered by the previous studies, but are crucial for the current research. Secondary: The secondary data was collected mostly via Internet; however a number of printed publications was used as well. Market reports by such marketing agencies as CBI, Datamonitor, ACNielson and Euromonitor became the basis for the research. Other scientific sources were retrieved through electronic databases such as ABI/ Inform, EBSCO, Emerald, ELIN@Mälardalen, Google and Google Scholar. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and books Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues (Hines &amp; Bruce, 2007) and Fashion Design (Jones, 2005) provided latest insights into current trends in fashion marketing, as well as introduced main concepts of the studied area. Theoretical Model: Existing studies contribute a lot to identifying crucial variables concerning fashion marketing. However, there is no available model that can fulfill the purpose of the current research. That is why a new model was developed in order to achieve the aim of the thesis. Since the purpose is to describe the German fast fashion market four factors influencing it were identified. They are categorized as follows: Market Environment in Germany, Competition, Activities in the Market and German Customers. Within each factor a set of variables was distinguished and analyzed. Market Environment in Germany factor covers macro and micro environments; Competition factor is analyzed in terms of positioning and branding of the major competitors; Activities in the Market factor discusses 4Ps and customer service; and German Customers factor reveals consumer behavior aspects as well as attitudes of Germans to branding and country of origin. German sizes are also covered within this factor. The created model helps identify market situaton the Japanese SPAs will face when entering the German fast fashion market. Analysis and Conclusion: The study revealed that though the German apparel market is highly competitive it is also an attractive one for apparel companies and there is a place for newcomers who can differentiate themselves from the majority. Since there exist some gaps in the market supply in terms of quality/price and fashion/quality ratios, those Japanese SPAs who will be able to cover these gaps can have good potential in the German fast fashion market. This means that those Japanese SPAs who can supply apparel of good quality, with fashionable designs, but at the same time at competitive prices can find favorable positions in the market. In addition, as new comers the Japanese SPAs need to ensure that they can satisfy quick response requirement which is crucial to the fast fashion industry, and this can become a challenge. Also, the research revealed that the German customers are brand conscious, thus it is important for the Japanese SPAs to build brand awareness and brand reputation among Germans. Moreover, the Japanese SPAs need to identify target segments which they can serve at their best. A set of recommendations provided in the thesis regarding marketing strategies shows how the German market conditions can be used for creating advantages for the Japanese SPAs.

This work traces the visual potential of 2Dimensional space inthree dimensional garments and questions aesthetic standardsin the field of menswear. The aim is to discuss the visualconsensus of flat and spatial construction. Construction has been chosen as the key aspect for digital and analoginvestigations. It builds the main emphasis of this project and leads toa deeper visual understanding of how we perceive garments with clearborders between three - and two dimensional sections. The design process has a dual structure. 1st stage - ‚virtual investigation‘ This is where the experiments start. By using Simulation andrendering software such as ‚CLO3D‘, ‚Marvellous Designer‘ and ‚Keyshot‘the aim is to develop and unlock multiple constructionprinciples that deal with similar visual aspects. These results suggest anetwork of variations (garment types/parts, e.g. sleeve construction,trousers etc..) that need to be translated into real prototypes. 2nd stage - ‚Analog translation‘ Based on the preferred results of the 1st stage, the aim is to filter oneconstruction principle for further studies.The choice of working with the flat sleeve construction is the keyaspect and builds the fundamental for ellaborating the design process.This phase is mainly characterised by material and shape experimentsand relates to a lasting construction principle. The result suggest a spread of examples that deal with the sameconstruction principle. The examplified versions include differentmaterial qualities and differ in terms of their complexity in detailsolutions and production.The final choice works as a unit and offers different ways ofapproaching and developing the construction principle further.Especially the layering aspect in example 8 and 9 became dominantand very important for increasing the visual expression.That indication offers an imidiate and direct approach and showsthe potential within the field of 2D expressions.Nevertheless my next step would lead me back to the digital studiesto understand more about the diversity of layers in two dimensionalgarments. Eventually it would suggest both a wearable as well as aconceptual outcome.

The idea of this thesis is to achieve deeper understanding of how gender is materialised in the retail environments of brands challenging the traditional division between male and female especially in their marketing and style direction. Furthermore, the research aims to give deeper understanding on how the gendered shop environments are understood by a sample of Millennial consumers and how the consumers reflect on gender in these settings. Using varying data collection methods from in-store observations to go-along interviews with participants chosen with purposive sampling technique, the thesis uses qualitative method as a research tool and further analyses the data upon framework of servicescape theory. Using constructivist grounded theory as main analysis method, the findings suggest that there are significant differences between merchandising womenswear and menswear assortments. The research also indicates that among Millennial consumers there is clear interest and market potential towards the assortment of opposite gender, and the consumers also recognise the gendered differences in the materialised retail environments.

Sveriges tillverkningsindustri av kläder är inte vad den en gång har varit. I mitten av 1900-talet producerades miljontals plagg varje år i Sverige. När konkurrensen kring priser för produktion blev starkare utomlands så började företag leta sig utanför Sverige, för produktionsalternativ, till Europa och därefter lågkostnadsländer i Asien. Ny forskning visar att förenklade beräkningar kring kostnader för produktion leder till produktion i lågkostnadsländer, samt att totalkostnaden för offshoring, när man tagit i åtagande parametrar såsom kommunikation samt hanteringen av logistik över landsgränser, är högre än alternativet reshoring där man flyttar hem produktionen till ursprungslandet igen. Frågan är dock komplex då priser på olika marknader är dynamiska. Syftet är därför att undersöka vilka möjligheter det finns för en svensk textilproduktion, ur perspektiven av svenska herrmodeföretag och producenter, där avgränsningen har dragits vid producenter som står för sömnaden. Detta är en kvalitativ studie där vi med hjälp av semi-strukturerade intervjuer har undersökt svenska herrmodeföretag samt svenska producenter av kläder. Sju stycken herrmodeföretag och fem stycken klädproducenter har intervjuats för att avgöra om möjligheten till svensk klädproduktion av herrmode, för att se om det finns en matchning mellan företagen och för att de ska kunna ge en bild av möjligheterna för en svensk textilproduktion. Analysen av materialet görs med en öppen kodning och teman som identifieras klassificeras i ett ramverk som delar upp beslut kring produktion. Resultatet visar på att det finns flera beröringspunkter mellan företagen och möjligheterna till en svensk produktion, men det beror på kvantiteterna av produktionen och på vilket sätt produktionen är hanterad. I nuläget finns inte förutsättningar för en storskalig svensk textilproduktion - men det finns möjligheter för att skala upp produktionen. Produktion av mindre serier eller för snabb påfyllning av slutsålda plagg är två incitament till svensk textilproduktion på grund av dess fördelaktiga geografiska positionering. Kommunikation och relationer nämndes som viktiga aspekter för modeföretagen när det kommer till sourcing, något som de producerande företagen kan matcha. Detta innebär att det krävs mer jobb för företagen att kontrollera samt följa upp underleverantörer, då dessa främst är representerade i andra länder. Det gör den flexibilitet som svenska produktionsalternativ står för mer komplex. Uppsatsen är skriven på svenska. / The Swedish clothing production industry is not what it once was. In the middle of the 20th century millions of garments were produced in Sweden annually. When the competition in prices of manufacturing grew too strong, companies began to look beyond Sweden, for production alternatives, to Europe and later low-cost countries in Asia. New research shows that simplified calculations of production costs lead to low cost country sourcing, and that the total cost of offshoring, taking in account parameters such as communication &amp; cross border logistics, is higher than the alternative of reshoring, where production is moved back to the home country. The issue however is complex and prices of international markets dynamic.The purpose is therefore to examine the possibilities of a Swedish textile production, from the perspectives of Swedish Menswear brands and Swedish textile producers, where the delimitations within that production has been limited to the manufacturing area. This is a qualitative study, and with the help of semi-structured interviews we have examined Swedish menswear companies and Swedish garment producers alike. A total of seven menswear brands and five producers has been interviewed to decide whether the possibility to produce in Sweden is feasible, to see how the companies match and for them to be able to give their perspectives of the possibilities of a Swedish textile production. The analysis of the data is concluded with an open coding which enables identifying themes that are then categorized into a framework, divided according to sourcing-decisions.The results show that there are several touchpoints between the companies and possibilities for a Swedish production, but it depends on quantities produced and in what way production is managed. As of now, the prerequisites for a larger scale Swedish clothing production does not exist - but there are possibilities of scaling up production. Production of smaller series or restocking of garments are two drivers of Swedish textile production due to the favorable geographical location. Communication and relations were also mentioned as important aspects of the companies when it comes to sourcing, which the Swedish textile producers can match. There were however different perceptions of the quality, and another barrier is that the entire supply chain is difficult to get ahold of in Sweden. This means that it takes more work for the companies to be able to verify and monitor the subcontractors, as they most likely are located in other countries. This makes the flexibility that the Swedish production alternatives stand for more complicated. This study is written in swedish.

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