A pesquisa ressalta a importância da reflexão na prática aplicada sustentada no processo científico para construção do conhecimento da área têxtil de malharia retilínea. A abordagem de intervenção utilizada permite heurísticas projetuais que proporcionam análises reflexivas sobre a percepção imaginativa e física dos objetos orientados deste estudo, com base em variáveis como: a seleção de materiais e a simulação virtual. Os objetos orientados são avaliados como ferramentas de mediação dos processos de concepção de produtos têxteis centrados ao usuário, ao processo e ao produto. Verifica-se a importância de construir um instrumento de análise, amparado no conceito de design de interação, através de uma relação contínua de pesquisa-ação onde as construções cognitivas, culturais e sociais são apontadas como fator determinante para o fluxo comunicacional no processo. Sendo utilizados processos integrados de simulação virtual através do sistema CAD SDS ONE FULL RD Shima Seiki. Para tanto, a pesquisa compreende estudos de caso envolvendo empresas do setor com configurações organizacionais e projetuais diferentes, os quais apresentaram resultados significativos da aplicação do design interativo no contexto projetual têxtil. A Diana Têxtil SA. consiste em uma empresa de grande porte, sediada em Timbó, Santa Catarina. Neste estudo de caso é descrito um projeto piloto que proporcionou a concepção da primeira coleção virtual de malharia retilínea realizada no Brasil. E, apresenta através da análise do seu contexto o fluxo complexo de interações culturais e conexões dos agentes e tecnologias, que configuraram a realização desse evento. A Arco Baleno Ltda. é uma empresa de pequeno porte sediada em Flores da Cunha, Rio Grande do Sul. Este estudo apresenta um processo de design interativo guiado pelo estilista como agente de inovação. O projeto é realizado através de parcerias entre a empresa fornecedora de tecnologia e a micro empresa analisada que também conta com subsídios financeiros do Sebrae para realização de seus projetos de design. Através desse estudo foi realizada uma pesquisa afetiva com usuário final crianças de 5 a 12 anos, para avaliar a aceitação de texturas específicas e da personagem da marca. A Marisol SA. é uma empresa de grande porte sediada em Jaraguá, Santa Catarina. Este estudo apresenta uma análise sobre a implementação de processos inovadores apresentados em um workshop realizado na empresa. Compreende a avaliação de seus profissionais especialistas quanto à importância da seleção de materiais e a simulação virtual para concepção de novos produtos. A Best Malhas Ltda. é uma empresa de médio porte sediada em Caxias do Sul. Este estudo apresenta descrições de novas concepções estratégicas do posicionamento do designer dentro do contexto de serviço e apresenta tarefas distintas atribuídas a esse profissional. Uma visão holística do processo de design é analisada para subsidiar a compreensão do design do processo de design. O quinto estudo de caso é amparado em uma plataforma global de relacionamentos profissionais o LinkedIn. Esse estudo de caso de profissionais especialistas descreve a criação de uma rede social com expertises específicas, os designers de malharia retilínea, através da plataforma do LinkedIn. Foi realizada uma survey, através de questionários para coleta de dados específicos que permitiram a análises sobre as características do perfil desses profissionais da área, bem como a sua pré-disposição as variáveis desta pesquisa. Através dessa rede social potencializada pelas tecnologias, foram coletadas informações dos especialistas ―estilistas de malharia retilínea‖. Tal processo valoriza a integração de expertises, da sintonia dos pares e proporciona através da dinâmica democrática e virtuosa o ―feedback ―para este objeto de estudo. Esta dissertação possui relevância econômica, social, científica e tecnológica, pois, aponta lacunas na área têxtil de malharia retilínea. Apresenta coerência em uma abordagem de adequação – sócio técnica, no qual é atribuído ao estilista o papel de um agente estratégico de inovação, através da possibilidade descrita que esse profissional possui ao integrar processos avançados para comunicação de seus projetos. / The research point the importance of reflection in applied practice sustained in the scientific process to build the knowledge of the textile flat knitting´s textile area. The used intervention approach allows projectual heuristics that provide reflexive analysis about imaginative and physical perception of the oriented objects of this study, based on variables such as material selection and virtual simulation. The oriented objects are evaluated like mediation tools of conception processes of textile products centered on the user, on the process, and on the product. It is verified the importance of building an analysis tool, supported on the concept of interaction design, through an ongoing relationship of research-action where the cognitive, cultural and social constructions are cited as a determinant factor to communication flow in the process. Integrated processes of virtual simulation are used through the CAD system SDS ONE FULL RD Shima Seiki. Therefore, the research includes case studies involving companies of the sector with different organizational and projectual configurations, which presented significant results from the application of interactive design within the textile projectual context. Diana Textil SA. consists in a large-sized company, localized in Timbo, Santa Catarina. This case study describes a pilot project that provided the conception of the flat knitting's first virtual collection developed in Brazil. And it presents, through the analysis of its context, the complex flow of cultural interactions and connections of agents and technologies that shaped the realization of this event. Arco Baleno Ltda. is a small-sized company localized in Flores da Cunha, Rio Grande do Sul. This study presents an interactive design process conducted by the designer as the agent of innovation. The project is realized through partnerships between the company that is provider of technology and the analyzed small company, which also has the Sebrae's financial subsidies to perform their design projects. Through this study it was realized an affective research with the end user, children between 5 and 12 years old, to evaluate the acceptance of specific textures and character of the mark. Marisol SA. is a large-sized company localized in Jaraguá do Sul, Santa Catarina. This study presents an analysis about implementation of innovative processes presented in a workshop realized at the company. It includes the evaluation of their professionals about the importance of material selection and virtual simulation for conception of new products. Best Malhas Ltda. is a medium-sized company localized in Caxias do Sul, Rio Grande do Sul. This study presents descriptions of new strategic conceptions of designer positioning within the service context and presents different tasks assigned to this professional. A holistic view of the design process is analyzed to subsidize the comprehension of the design process' design. The fifth case study is supported on a global platform of professional relationships, LinkedIn. This professional's case study describes the expertise to creation of a social network with specific expertise, the flat knitting designers, through LinkedIn platform. A survey was conducted using questionnaires to collect specific data that allowed the analysis about the profile characteristics of these area professionals, as well as their pre-disposing to the variables of this research. Through this social network augmented by technology, informations was gathered from the experts "flat knitting designers". This process enhances the expertises integration, the tune of pairs and offers the ―feedback‖ for this study object through the virtuous and democratic dynamics. This dissertation has economic, social, scientific and technological importance because it indicates gaps on flat knitting textile area. It shows the consistency in an approach of social- technical adequacy, which is attributed to the designer the potential of a strategic innovation agent, through the described possibility that this professional has to integrate advanced processes for communication of their projects.

A pesquisa ressalta a importância da reflexão na prática aplicada sustentada no processo científico para construção do conhecimento da área têxtil de malharia retilínea. A abordagem de intervenção utilizada permite heurísticas projetuais que proporcionam análises reflexivas sobre a percepção imaginativa e física dos objetos orientados deste estudo, com base em variáveis como: a seleção de materiais e a simulação virtual. Os objetos orientados são avaliados como ferramentas de mediação dos processos de concepção de produtos têxteis centrados ao usuário, ao processo e ao produto. Verifica-se a importância de construir um instrumento de análise, amparado no conceito de design de interação, através de uma relação contínua de pesquisa-ação onde as construções cognitivas, culturais e sociais são apontadas como fator determinante para o fluxo comunicacional no processo. Sendo utilizados processos integrados de simulação virtual através do sistema CAD SDS ONE FULL RD Shima Seiki. Para tanto, a pesquisa compreende estudos de caso envolvendo empresas do setor com configurações organizacionais e projetuais diferentes, os quais apresentaram resultados significativos da aplicação do design interativo no contexto projetual têxtil. A Diana Têxtil SA. consiste em uma empresa de grande porte, sediada em Timbó, Santa Catarina. Neste estudo de caso é descrito um projeto piloto que proporcionou a concepção da primeira coleção virtual de malharia retilínea realizada no Brasil. E, apresenta através da análise do seu contexto o fluxo complexo de interações culturais e conexões dos agentes e tecnologias, que configuraram a realização desse evento. A Arco Baleno Ltda. é uma empresa de pequeno porte sediada em Flores da Cunha, Rio Grande do Sul. Este estudo apresenta um processo de design interativo guiado pelo estilista como agente de inovação. O projeto é realizado através de parcerias entre a empresa fornecedora de tecnologia e a micro empresa analisada que também conta com subsídios financeiros do Sebrae para realização de seus projetos de design. Através desse estudo foi realizada uma pesquisa afetiva com usuário final crianças de 5 a 12 anos, para avaliar a aceitação de texturas específicas e da personagem da marca. A Marisol SA. é uma empresa de grande porte sediada em Jaraguá, Santa Catarina. Este estudo apresenta uma análise sobre a implementação de processos inovadores apresentados em um workshop realizado na empresa. Compreende a avaliação de seus profissionais especialistas quanto à importância da seleção de materiais e a simulação virtual para concepção de novos produtos. A Best Malhas Ltda. é uma empresa de médio porte sediada em Caxias do Sul. Este estudo apresenta descrições de novas concepções estratégicas do posicionamento do designer dentro do contexto de serviço e apresenta tarefas distintas atribuídas a esse profissional. Uma visão holística do processo de design é analisada para subsidiar a compreensão do design do processo de design. O quinto estudo de caso é amparado em uma plataforma global de relacionamentos profissionais o LinkedIn. Esse estudo de caso de profissionais especialistas descreve a criação de uma rede social com expertises específicas, os designers de malharia retilínea, através da plataforma do LinkedIn. Foi realizada uma survey, através de questionários para coleta de dados específicos que permitiram a análises sobre as características do perfil desses profissionais da área, bem como a sua pré-disposição as variáveis desta pesquisa. Através dessa rede social potencializada pelas tecnologias, foram coletadas informações dos especialistas ―estilistas de malharia retilínea‖. Tal processo valoriza a integração de expertises, da sintonia dos pares e proporciona através da dinâmica democrática e virtuosa o ―feedback ―para este objeto de estudo. Esta dissertação possui relevância econômica, social, científica e tecnológica, pois, aponta lacunas na área têxtil de malharia retilínea. Apresenta coerência em uma abordagem de adequação – sócio técnica, no qual é atribuído ao estilista o papel de um agente estratégico de inovação, através da possibilidade descrita que esse profissional possui ao integrar processos avançados para comunicação de seus projetos. / The research point the importance of reflection in applied practice sustained in the scientific process to build the knowledge of the textile flat knitting´s textile area. The used intervention approach allows projectual heuristics that provide reflexive analysis about imaginative and physical perception of the oriented objects of this study, based on variables such as material selection and virtual simulation. The oriented objects are evaluated like mediation tools of conception processes of textile products centered on the user, on the process, and on the product. It is verified the importance of building an analysis tool, supported on the concept of interaction design, through an ongoing relationship of research-action where the cognitive, cultural and social constructions are cited as a determinant factor to communication flow in the process. Integrated processes of virtual simulation are used through the CAD system SDS ONE FULL RD Shima Seiki. Therefore, the research includes case studies involving companies of the sector with different organizational and projectual configurations, which presented significant results from the application of interactive design within the textile projectual context. Diana Textil SA. consists in a large-sized company, localized in Timbo, Santa Catarina. This case study describes a pilot project that provided the conception of the flat knitting's first virtual collection developed in Brazil. And it presents, through the analysis of its context, the complex flow of cultural interactions and connections of agents and technologies that shaped the realization of this event. Arco Baleno Ltda. is a small-sized company localized in Flores da Cunha, Rio Grande do Sul. This study presents an interactive design process conducted by the designer as the agent of innovation. The project is realized through partnerships between the company that is provider of technology and the analyzed small company, which also has the Sebrae's financial subsidies to perform their design projects. Through this study it was realized an affective research with the end user, children between 5 and 12 years old, to evaluate the acceptance of specific textures and character of the mark. Marisol SA. is a large-sized company localized in Jaraguá do Sul, Santa Catarina. This study presents an analysis about implementation of innovative processes presented in a workshop realized at the company. It includes the evaluation of their professionals about the importance of material selection and virtual simulation for conception of new products. Best Malhas Ltda. is a medium-sized company localized in Caxias do Sul, Rio Grande do Sul. This study presents descriptions of new strategic conceptions of designer positioning within the service context and presents different tasks assigned to this professional. A holistic view of the design process is analyzed to subsidize the comprehension of the design process' design. The fifth case study is supported on a global platform of professional relationships, LinkedIn. This professional's case study describes the expertise to creation of a social network with specific expertise, the flat knitting designers, through LinkedIn platform. A survey was conducted using questionnaires to collect specific data that allowed the analysis about the profile characteristics of these area professionals, as well as their pre-disposing to the variables of this research. Through this social network augmented by technology, informations was gathered from the experts "flat knitting designers". This process enhances the expertises integration, the tune of pairs and offers the ―feedback‖ for this study object through the virtuous and democratic dynamics. This dissertation has economic, social, scientific and technological importance because it indicates gaps on flat knitting textile area. It shows the consistency in an approach of social- technical adequacy, which is attributed to the designer the potential of a strategic innovation agent, through the described possibility that this professional has to integrate advanced processes for communication of their projects.

Sjöräddningssällskapet har sedan 1907 räddat liv genom frivilliga sjöräddare. De har en vision om att kunna effektivisera sina räddningsaktioner genom att skicka ut en drönare till olycksplatsen för att få en övergripande bild av händelsen och på så sätt kunna anpassa rätt utrustning och personal. Idén var att konstruera drönarens kropp i form av en textil 3D-struktur, detta skulle underlätta dess användning då den skulle bli flexibel och vid olycksplatsen kunna stuvas undan och förflyttas smidigare. Tanken är att drönaren ska ha en konstruktion som kan blåsas upp och bli styv för att sedan kunna tömmas på luft och bli flexibel. Syftet med denna studie är att ta fram en flatstickad distanstextil som ska fungera som en kropp till en drönare där förhoppningen är att den textila 3D-kroppen ska kunna formstickas som en vinge. I distanstextil skapas luftrum mellan lagren vilket möjliggör att en uppblåsbar konstruktion kan skapas. Genom att variera olika parametrar kan man även ta fram önskade egenskaper som styvhet, form, flexibilitet samt lättvikt. För att skapa en distanstextil som är styv i uppblåst läge krävs en beredning. Trikåvaror är generellt svåra att bereda, därför har studien undersökt olika trikåbindningars förmåga att vidhäfta mot beredningar.   Den formstickade distansstrukturen i väfttrikå tillverkades på en flatstickmaskin, där formen skapades genom masköverhängningar. Genom att binda distanstråden på olika nålavstånd kunde ett ovalt tvärsnitt uppnås. För att undersöka olika bindningars förmåga att vidhäfta mot beredningar testades flatstickade 2D-prover. Bindningarna var slätstickning, pikévariant över 2 system, pikévariant över 4 system samt slätstickning med plätering. De olika beredningar som undersöktes var silikonbeläggning, polyuretanfilm, polyetenfilm tillsammans med polyuretanfilm samt en polypropenfilm. Syftet var att hitta en beredning som är lätt i vikt, luft- och vattentät. Ett vidhäftningstest utfördes på bindningarna slätstickning, pikévariant över 2 system samt pikévariant över 4 system med hjälp av en dragprovare för bestämning av de olika bindningarnas vidhäftning mot olika lamineringar. De tre bindningarna i kombination med laminering testades även för luft- och vattentäthet.   Studien visar att det finns goda möjligheter att formsticka en flatstickad distanstextil som ska fungera som en kropp till en drönare. Resultatet visar att provkroppen som var stickad med pikévariant över två system samt laminerad med polyuretanfilmen gav bäst resultat vid utfört vidhäftningstest. Vid test av luftgenomsläpplighet visade pikévariant över två system med laminering av polyuretanfilm tillsammans med en polyetenfilm tätast resultat med låg luftgenomsläpplighet. Test för bestämning av vattentäthet visar att den slätstickade varan med en laminering med polyetenfilm och en polyuretanfilm gav bäst resultat. / Since 1907, the Swedish Sea Rescue Society has saved lives with the help of volunteer workers. Their vision is to be able to improve their rescue operations with quicker respond times by sending out a drone to the scene of an accident. The idea is to get a comprehensive picture of the scene, so they can adapt the right equipment and personnel for the job. The idea is to create a drone with a textile 3D structure, which would ease use as it would become flexible and easier to remove from the scene of the alarm. The drone should have a structure similar to a stand-up paddle board, where it can be inflatable and become stiff and then be deflated and folded and tucked away.   The purpose of this study is to develop a flat knitted spacer fabric that will serve as a body of the drone, hoping that the textile 3D structure can be shaped like a wing. With spacer fabrics, space for air is created between the layers, enabling an inflatable construction to be created. By varying different parameters, one can also develop desired features such as stiffness, shape, flexibility and decrease weight. To be able to create a spacer fabric that is stiff when inflated, a finishing process is required. It is generally hard to find a finishing to a knitted fabric, therefore the study investigates the ability of different bindings on a knitted fabric to adhere to finishes.   The shaped spacer fabric was manufactured by weft knitting on a flat knitting machine called Stoll CMS 822 HP. A wing shaped spacer and an oval cross section were achieved in this study. To investigate how the binding affects the adhesion of the finishing, three different bindings of flat knitted 2D- structures were tested. The bindings were: plain fabric (single jersey), pique structure over 2 feeders, pique structure over 4 feeders and plain fabric with plating. The finishing processes that were studied were silicone coating, a polyurethane film, a polyethylene film and a polypropylene film. The aim was to find a finishing with the properties of light weight, air and water tightness. An adhesion test was performed on the bindings plain fabric, pique structure over 2 feeders and pique structure over 4 feeders by a tensile tester to determine the adhesion between the tested bindings and finishes. These test specimens were also tested to determine resistance to water penetration and air permeability.   The study shows that it is possible to create a shaped spacer fabric by flat knitting, that will act as the body of a drone. The result of the adhesion test shows that the test specimen with binding pique over 2 feeders and laminated with a polyurethane film performed the best. In the air permeability test the same binding showed the best result but with a lamination of a polyurethane film and a polyethylene film. The test to determine resistance to water penetration showed that the binding plain fabric was the best, with a lamination of a polyurethane film, and a polyethylene film.

A pesquisa ressalta a importância da reflexão na prática aplicada sustentada no processo científico para construção do conhecimento da área têxtil de malharia retilínea. A abordagem de intervenção utilizada permite heurísticas projetuais que proporcionam análises reflexivas sobre a percepção imaginativa e física dos objetos orientados deste estudo, com base em variáveis como: a seleção de materiais e a simulação virtual. Os objetos orientados são avaliados como ferramentas de mediação dos processos de concepção de produtos têxteis centrados ao usuário, ao processo e ao produto. Verifica-se a importância de construir um instrumento de análise, amparado no conceito de design de interação, através de uma relação contínua de pesquisa-ação onde as construções cognitivas, culturais e sociais são apontadas como fator determinante para o fluxo comunicacional no processo. Sendo utilizados processos integrados de simulação virtual através do sistema CAD SDS ONE FULL RD Shima Seiki. Para tanto, a pesquisa compreende estudos de caso envolvendo empresas do setor com configurações organizacionais e projetuais diferentes, os quais apresentaram resultados significativos da aplicação do design interativo no contexto projetual têxtil. A Diana Têxtil SA. consiste em uma empresa de grande porte, sediada em Timbó, Santa Catarina. Neste estudo de caso é descrito um projeto piloto que proporcionou a concepção da primeira coleção virtual de malharia retilínea realizada no Brasil. E, apresenta através da análise do seu contexto o fluxo complexo de interações culturais e conexões dos agentes e tecnologias, que configuraram a realização desse evento. A Arco Baleno Ltda. é uma empresa de pequeno porte sediada em Flores da Cunha, Rio Grande do Sul. Este estudo apresenta um processo de design interativo guiado pelo estilista como agente de inovação. O projeto é realizado através de parcerias entre a empresa fornecedora de tecnologia e a micro empresa analisada que também conta com subsídios financeiros do Sebrae para realização de seus projetos de design. Através desse estudo foi realizada uma pesquisa afetiva com usuário final crianças de 5 a 12 anos, para avaliar a aceitação de texturas específicas e da personagem da marca. A Marisol SA. é uma empresa de grande porte sediada em Jaraguá, Santa Catarina. Este estudo apresenta uma análise sobre a implementação de processos inovadores apresentados em um workshop realizado na empresa. Compreende a avaliação de seus profissionais especialistas quanto à importância da seleção de materiais e a simulação virtual para concepção de novos produtos. A Best Malhas Ltda. é uma empresa de médio porte sediada em Caxias do Sul. Este estudo apresenta descrições de novas concepções estratégicas do posicionamento do designer dentro do contexto de serviço e apresenta tarefas distintas atribuídas a esse profissional. Uma visão holística do processo de design é analisada para subsidiar a compreensão do design do processo de design. O quinto estudo de caso é amparado em uma plataforma global de relacionamentos profissionais o LinkedIn. Esse estudo de caso de profissionais especialistas descreve a criação de uma rede social com expertises específicas, os designers de malharia retilínea, através da plataforma do LinkedIn. Foi realizada uma survey, através de questionários para coleta de dados específicos que permitiram a análises sobre as características do perfil desses profissionais da área, bem como a sua pré-disposição as variáveis desta pesquisa. Através dessa rede social potencializada pelas tecnologias, foram coletadas informações dos especialistas ―estilistas de malharia retilínea‖. Tal processo valoriza a integração de expertises, da sintonia dos pares e proporciona através da dinâmica democrática e virtuosa o ―feedback ―para este objeto de estudo. Esta dissertação possui relevância econômica, social, científica e tecnológica, pois, aponta lacunas na área têxtil de malharia retilínea. Apresenta coerência em uma abordagem de adequação – sócio técnica, no qual é atribuído ao estilista o papel de um agente estratégico de inovação, através da possibilidade descrita que esse profissional possui ao integrar processos avançados para comunicação de seus projetos. / The research point the importance of reflection in applied practice sustained in the scientific process to build the knowledge of the textile flat knitting´s textile area. The used intervention approach allows projectual heuristics that provide reflexive analysis about imaginative and physical perception of the oriented objects of this study, based on variables such as material selection and virtual simulation. The oriented objects are evaluated like mediation tools of conception processes of textile products centered on the user, on the process, and on the product. It is verified the importance of building an analysis tool, supported on the concept of interaction design, through an ongoing relationship of research-action where the cognitive, cultural and social constructions are cited as a determinant factor to communication flow in the process. Integrated processes of virtual simulation are used through the CAD system SDS ONE FULL RD Shima Seiki. Therefore, the research includes case studies involving companies of the sector with different organizational and projectual configurations, which presented significant results from the application of interactive design within the textile projectual context. Diana Textil SA. consists in a large-sized company, localized in Timbo, Santa Catarina. This case study describes a pilot project that provided the conception of the flat knitting's first virtual collection developed in Brazil. And it presents, through the analysis of its context, the complex flow of cultural interactions and connections of agents and technologies that shaped the realization of this event. Arco Baleno Ltda. is a small-sized company localized in Flores da Cunha, Rio Grande do Sul. This study presents an interactive design process conducted by the designer as the agent of innovation. The project is realized through partnerships between the company that is provider of technology and the analyzed small company, which also has the Sebrae's financial subsidies to perform their design projects. Through this study it was realized an affective research with the end user, children between 5 and 12 years old, to evaluate the acceptance of specific textures and character of the mark. Marisol SA. is a large-sized company localized in Jaraguá do Sul, Santa Catarina. This study presents an analysis about implementation of innovative processes presented in a workshop realized at the company. It includes the evaluation of their professionals about the importance of material selection and virtual simulation for conception of new products. Best Malhas Ltda. is a medium-sized company localized in Caxias do Sul, Rio Grande do Sul. This study presents descriptions of new strategic conceptions of designer positioning within the service context and presents different tasks assigned to this professional. A holistic view of the design process is analyzed to subsidize the comprehension of the design process' design. The fifth case study is supported on a global platform of professional relationships, LinkedIn. This professional's case study describes the expertise to creation of a social network with specific expertise, the flat knitting designers, through LinkedIn platform. A survey was conducted using questionnaires to collect specific data that allowed the analysis about the profile characteristics of these area professionals, as well as their pre-disposing to the variables of this research. Through this social network augmented by technology, informations was gathered from the experts "flat knitting designers". This process enhances the expertises integration, the tune of pairs and offers the ―feedback‖ for this study object through the virtuous and democratic dynamics. This dissertation has economic, social, scientific and technological importance because it indicates gaps on flat knitting textile area. It shows the consistency in an approach of social- technical adequacy, which is attributed to the designer the potential of a strategic innovation agent, through the described possibility that this professional has to integrate advanced processes for communication of their projects.

This thesis is a text analysis of knitting patterns. The material are six knitting patterns from 1847 -2018. All the investigated material is written in Swedish. The purpose of the study was to analyse the relationship between the writer and the reader, and the view of the reader. This has been done by studying the values of the knitting books. The context dependent of the patterns has also been analysed, in terms of how the text addresses the reader, the voice of the writer and how much room the writer has to explain his or her intentions and inspiration. An important part of the study has been to analyse the pictures and illustrations in the pattern, and how they relate to the text. The result of the study showed that the older knitting patterns are more context dependent than the modern ones. There is a distinct development from passive addressing of the reader to a more direct, using personal pronouns and a friendlier approach. Newer patterns also give the writer more space to write about his or her inspiration and intentions. The relationship between the pictures and the text stays mostly the same during the investigated period. / <p>Godkänt datum 2021-08-24</p>

Mit multiaxialen Gelegen auf Basis der Kettenwirktechnik stehen hervorragende textile Halbzeuge für die Weiterverarbeitung als Verstärkungskomponente in Faser-Kunststoff-Verbunden zur Verfügung. Die bisherige Konfiguration der für die Herstellung dieser Textilien verwendeten Nähwirkmaschinen führt verfahrensbedingt zu einem unsymmetrischen Produktaufbau mit üblicherweise nur einer Fadenlage in Gelegelängsrichtung und ebenso zu Einschränkungen bei der Anordnung des Bindefadens im Textil. Durch die Erweiterung des Nähwirkprozesses wird es möglich, Nähwirkstoffe mit einer beliebigen Abfolge der Einzellagen herzustellen, zum Beispiel in symmetrischer Anordnung. Die neuen Varianten der Lagenanordnung und der Bindungskonstruktion bilden den Ausgangspunkt für die Produktentwicklung am Beispiel zweier Anwendungen aus den Bereichen der Faser-Kunststoff-Verbunde und des textilbewehrten Betons. Hier wird deutlich, dass über die Herstellung symmetrischer Gelege hinaus der Einsatz des erweiterten Wirkprozesses die Eigenschaften der Gelege und der Endprodukte vorteilhaft beeinflussen kann. Aus den untersuchten Beispielen und grundsätzlichen Betrachtungen leitet sich ab, unter welchen maschinentechnischen Voraussetzungen der Einsatz des erweiterten Wirkprozesses sinnvoll ist. Es wird ein Konzept entwickelt, auf dessen Grundlage Nähwirkstoffe mit variabler Lagenanordnung auf Nähwirkmaschinen gefertigt werden können. / Multiaxial multi-ply fabrics made by warp knitting are excellently suited for the application in fiber reinforced composites. The usual configuration of the stitch-bonding machines, which are used to produce these fabrics, necessarily leads to composite laminates with an asymmetric layer arrangement and only one layer of yarns in the zero degree direction of the fabric. The variability of patterning with the binding yarn is also limited. By completing the stitch-bonding process with an additional work step it is possible to produce stitch-bonded fabrics without any restrictions concerning the arrangement of the individual layers in the fabric, for example with a symmetric composition. This is the basis for the development of two exemplary products in the fields of textile reinforced plastics and textile reinforced concrete. It can be shown that the application of the extended stitch-bonding process is advantageous beyond the layer arrangement, positively affecting the mechanical properties of the fabric and the composite. From these examples, conclusions are drawn regarding the configuration of future stitch-bonding machines.

Produktionen av textila fibrer ökar varje år och domineras idag av bomull och polyester. Denna industri innebär en stor miljöpåverkan, inte bara genom användandet av kemikalier tidigt i värdekedjan utan även utsläpp vid transport av råvaror och textila produkter över långa sträckor. Ett alternativ till denna globala värdekedja, och ett steg mot en mer förnyelsebar textilindustri, är att i större utsträckning utnyttja de lokalt producerade råvaror som i dagsläget förbises. Idag slängs ca 54% av den ull som årligen produceras i Sverige. Flera projekt för att använda mer av den svenska ullen, bland annat Swedish Wool Initiative, har genomförts. Detta har resulterat i att ett par olika företag har börjat sälja plagg av svensk ull, men då grövre stickade plagg. Här finns en kunskapslucka kring hur tunna garn och sedermera tyg som kan tillverkas och hur deras egenskaper skiljer sig från garn och tyg av importerad merinoull. Detta arbete jämför därför svensk jämtlandsull och finull med importerad merinoull genom karakterisering av fibrer, garn och tyg. Testerna visar att fibrerna av jämtlandsull har större diameter och kortare längd än de andra sorterna, men det färdiga garnet visade ingen signifikant skillnad i styrka utan alla tre hade en styrka kring 3-4 cN/tex. Garnet av finull kunde inte användas till stickning då det var för ojämnt och hade för stor variation i styrka. Av jämtlands- och merinogarnen producerades stickade tyger med en kvadratmetervikt kring 270 g/m2. Arbetet visade således att den svenska finullen inte lämpar sig för produktion av finstickade plagg. Dock har jämtlandsullen potential att användas i något grövre plagg än det väldigt tunna tyget som var arbetets målbild. Detta då garnet av jämtlandsull hade väldigt lika egenskaper som det av merinoull. / The production of textile fibres increases each year and is today dominated by cotton and polyester. This industry causes a large environmental impact, not only through the use of chemicals early in the values chain but also emissions from transports of raw materials and textile products over long distances. An alternative to this global value chain, and a step towards a more renewable textile industry, is to a greater extent use locally produces raw materials that currently are overlooked. Today, about 54% of the wool produced in Sweden is thrown away. Several projects aimed to increase the use of the wool have been done, for example Swedish Wool Initiative. This resulted in a couple of companies starting to sell garments made of Swedish wool, but only coarser knitted garments. Here a knowledge gap exists around how thin yarns and subsequently fabrics that can be produced and how their characteristics differ from the ones of yarn and fabric made of imported Merino wool. Therefore, this study compares wool from the Swedish Jämtlands sheep and Finulls sheep with imported merino wool through characterization of fibres, yarn, and fabric. The tests showed that the fibres from the Jämtlands sheep have a larger diameter and shorter length than the other fibres, but the final yarn didn’t show any significant difference in strength. All three yarns had a strength around 3-4 cN/tex. The yarn made from the wool from the Finull sheep was not possible to knit because of irregularities and variation in strength. The yarn made from Merino and Jämtlands wool was knitted into fabrics with a square metre weight of about 270 g/ 2 m . Thus, the work shows that wool from the Finull sheep isn’t suited for production of fine knitted clothing. The Jämtlands wool on the other hand, has potential to be used in slightly coarser garments than the very thin ones that was the aim of this work. This is thought possible because of the similar characteristics between the yarn made from Merino wool and the one made from Jämtlands wool.

Needlework has been practiced throughout history, across the nation of Sweden and the world, primarily by women within the home. In recent years a revival of the craft has been seen worldwide, the covid lockdown and an aging population being two factors contributing to this. Historically there’s been a duality to the practice of needlework. On one hand, it’s been a means of oppression, and on the other hand, it's been a weapon of resistance and a source of joy, creativity, and collectivity. It has, throughout history, proven to be a political, social and creative tool and, as argued in this thesis, a spatial tool. The practice of needlework allows for the artisan to travel between different spheres. This thesis sets out to explore the potential of moving between private and public, performing a public domesticity through, for example, knitting.  Needlework is, in its nature, slow. This slowness, the repetitive movements of the hands and the touching of tactile materials emphasizes the process of making and prompts reflections and emotions. This thesis argues that methods of needlework as, for example, layering, mending, joining, ripping, and patching, clearly connect to the architectural design process. These methods emphasize notions of care and maintenance. The thesis uses an interdisciplinary approach to investigate needlework as both the topic of research and the means of spatial exploration and representation, aiming to underpin the relevance of engaging with needlework in the architectural design process, as a way of maintaining the craft and learning new things. Rooms devoted to the practice of needlework haven't appeared in a building plan for many years. The design proposal, presented in the report, aims to explore the possibility of these spaces reappearing within the public sphere. The proposal is placed within the context of Sweden with no specific site intended. Proposing a space of appearance (term coined by Hannah Arendt in her theory of Plurality) actualized through the collective making of the syjunta (sewing circle). Creating a public syrum (sewing room)  where the practice of needlework and its practitioners can appear, connected to ideas of feminist architectural practice to make the everyday visible. The thesis project engages with needlework by seeing it as a collective act of taking and making space.

No description available.

Introduction: Ravelry is a website offering information and social media functions for people interested in knitting. All content is user-supplied, including thousands of searchable records of knitting patterns and yarns. The aim of this thesis is to describe the way these are organised and classified and how this relates to systems used in other contexts and to the expectations of site members regarding both presentation and search functions. Method: Based in domain analysis theory and the concept of serious leisure, the knitting community on Ravelry and its information databases were studied through content analysis of the website, a literature review of pattern and yarn presentation, and a user survey. Results and analysis: The presentation of products on the website contains the information expected within this domain. Users are generally satisfied with the information given but have come to expect more details here than from other sources. The search function enables specific searches, but is too complex for certain users and is sometimes seen as old-fashioned or hard to understand. Members express varying degrees of understanding of the website’s community base. Conclusion: Ravelry has set up a knowledge organisation system and presentation pages that meet its members’ expectations in terms of information content. The search function and layout is not as popular, but efficient for many respondents. This is a two years master’s thesis in Library and Information Science. / Inledning: Ravelry är en webbplats med information och sociala mediefunktioner för stickintresserade. Allt innehåll kommer från användarna, inklusive beskrivningar av tusentals sökbara stickmönster och garner. Syftet med studien är att beskriva hur dessa organiseras och klassificeras i förhållande till system som används i andra sammanhang och till medlemmarnas förväntningar. Metod: Utifrån domänanalysteori och begreppet ”serious leisure” undersöktes Ravelrys medlemmar och databaser genom innehållsanalys av webbplatsen, en litteraturstudie av mönster- och garnpresentation samt en användarenkät. Resultat och analys: Presentationen av produkter innehåller den information som förväntas inom domänen. Användarna är generellt sett nöjda med informationen som presenteras. Sökfunktionen möjliggör specificerade sökningar, men är för komplex för vissa användare och kan ses som gammaldags och svår att förstå. Medlemmarna uttrycker olika grader av förståelse för att allt material kommer från användarna. Slutsats: Ravelrys kunskapsorganisation och presentationssidor möter medlemmarnas förväntningar. Söksystemet och dess layout är inte lika populära, men effektivt för många respondenter.