Fontes documentais para o estudo da história da moda e da indumentária: o caso James Laver e novas perspectivas investiga o uso das fontes documentais na história da moda e da indumentária, no passado, atualmente e nas projeções de uso para o futuro, já sob uma perspectiva atual de conservação, preservação e manutenção através de um viés museológico e arquivístico. A base de trabalho são as propostas feitas pelo pesquisador de traje James Laver (1899-1975), um inglês que foi curador do Departamento de Gravura, Ilustração e Design do Victoria and Albert Museum / Documental Sources for the study of fashion and costume history: the case study James Laver and new perspectives investigate the use of documental sources in the history of fashion and costume, in the past, now and in future projections, under a contemporary perspective of conservation, preservation and maintenance based on archives and museology. The fundamentals of the research are based on the proposals made by the costume historian and researcher James Laver (1899-1975), an Englishman who was the Keeper of the Department of Prints, Drawings and Paintings of the Victoria and Albert Museum

Fontes documentais para o estudo da história da moda e da indumentária: o caso James Laver e novas perspectivas investiga o uso das fontes documentais na história da moda e da indumentária, no passado, atualmente e nas projeções de uso para o futuro, já sob uma perspectiva atual de conservação, preservação e manutenção através de um viés museológico e arquivístico. A base de trabalho são as propostas feitas pelo pesquisador de traje James Laver (1899-1975), um inglês que foi curador do Departamento de Gravura, Ilustração e Design do Victoria and Albert Museum / Documental Sources for the study of fashion and costume history: the case study James Laver and new perspectives investigate the use of documental sources in the history of fashion and costume, in the past, now and in future projections, under a contemporary perspective of conservation, preservation and maintenance based on archives and museology. The fundamentals of the research are based on the proposals made by the costume historian and researcher James Laver (1899-1975), an Englishman who was the Keeper of the Department of Prints, Drawings and Paintings of the Victoria and Albert Museum

In this work the magnetic and magnetotelluric (MT) geophysical methods have been used to produce two 3D models for the Laver area in southern Norrbotten. A new discovery of a porphyry copper deposit located at the Lill-Laverberget was reported by Boliden in 2012. The goal with the models is to form a better understanding of the setting for the porphyry deposit and to see if any of the geophysical methods are suited to be used in exploration for it. For starters an edge detector (Beiki, 2010) was used on magnetic data to identify structures and petrological contacts in the area. The magnetic data was modelled using the SimPEG (Cocket, et al., 2015) inversion software to create a 3D model over the area. The Magnetic method quite clearly managed to resolve the volcanic units in the Laver area. MT data was collected during fieldwork in September of 2018 and modelled using the MOD3DEM (Egbert & Kelbert, 2012) inversion software. The MT model did not show any clear anomalies that could be related to the deposit. / I detta arbete så har de magnetiska och magnetotelluriska (MT) geofysiska metoderna används för att skapa två 3D modeller över Laverområdet i södra Norrbotten. I området finns en porfyrkopparfyndighet som Boliden rapporterade in 2012. Målet med båda modellerna är att fördjupa förståelsen för bildningsmiljön för fyndigheten och för att se hur lämpade de geofysiska metoderna är för prospektering. Det första steget var att använda befintliga magnetiska data och processa den med ED funktionen (Beiki, 2010) för att identifiera strukturer och bergartskontakter i området. Den magnetiska data användes för att producera en 3D modell med inversionsprogrammet SimPEG (Cocket, et al., 2015). Denna modell kunde skilja mellan vulkaniska och övriga bergarter i området. Magnetotelluriska data samlades in i september 2018 och modellerades med MOD3DEM (Egbert & Kelbert, 2012), denna modell hade dock problem att finna anomalier i området.

Ökad efterfråga på koppar har inneburit att man börjat prospektera områden där kopparhalten är låg. Ett sådant område är Laver i Älvsbyn kommun där Boliden vill etablera ett dagbrott i vad som förut var ett gruvsamhälle men nu står övergivet. Den planerade gruvan orsakar konflikter med närliggande rennäring, Natura 2000-områden samt har konsekvenser för miljön och samhället i Älvsbyn. Denna rapport undersöker effekterna av den tidigare och planerade gruvan i Laver med fokus på hur efterbehandling ska gå till och hur den påverkar olika aktörer. Materialet är hämtat från litteratur, intervjuer och ett fältarbete i Laver och har resulterat i en scenarioanalys där påverkan på miljön, rennäring och samhället värderats. Om en gruva etableras i Laver kan gruvavfallet tas hand om av Boliden och det finns idéer om hur en efterbehandling kan tillgodose kommunens behov men projektet riskerar att slå ut rennäringen. Det är därför viktigt att konsekvenserna vägs utifrån ett helhetsperspektiv där alla aktörers intressen tillgodoses. / An increasing demand for copper has led to the prospecting of areas with low copper content. One such area is Laver in Älvsbyn municipality where Boliden Mineral AB wants to establish an open pit mine in what was once an old mining settlement. The planned mine causes conflicts with nearby reindeer husbandry, Natura 2000-areas and has consequences for the environment as well as the society in Älvsbyn. This report examines the effects of both the old and planned mine in Laver, with a focus on the after-treatment and how the concerned agents become affected by a new mine. A scenario analysis was made by gathering information from literature, interviews and a field work at the mining site. This scenario analysis compares and values the impact on the local environment, reindeer herding and society. The planned mine will be on a larger scale than the old one and will therefore have to take more aspects of future impacts into account. If a mine is established in Laver, most of the waste can be taken care of by Boliden. There are some ideas on how the after-treatment can meet the needs of the municipality, but the reindeer husbandry is at great risk of vanishing from the area. Hence, it’s of importance that future consequences are weighed from a holistic perspective where the interests of all agents are met.