Cette thèse articule les cadres d’analyse des sociologies du travail et de l’éducation pour étudier l’émergence et les évolutions, voire les disparitions, des métiers de la mode et de ses instances de formation. Elle repose sur une enquête réalisée dans trois institutions de formation appartenant à trois niveaux différents de la hiérarchie scolaire : une école de stylisme privée, un lycée technique et un lycée professionnel. La méthodologie employée associe des observations de longue durée, 104 entretiens réalisés auprès d’étudiants, de personnels enseignants et d’acteurs du monde de la mode et une analyse documentaire. La perspective sociohistorique adoptée permet d’observer la structuration d’un monde social ainsi que l’offre de formation. Celle-ci s’organise au cours du XXe siècle, permettant aux femmes d’accéder à l’éducation technique, suit les évolutions de l’activité et passe progressivement d’une formation ouvrière à une formation supérieure orientée vers la création (partie I). Les analyses de la sociologie du curriculum permettent de montrer la diversité de ces institutions et de poser la question de l’existence d’une filière de formation aux métiers de la mode (partie II). Les écoles privées, les plus nombreuses dans le stylisme, illustrent la marchandisation de la certification. L’insertion professionnelle consécutive à ces cursus met à l’épreuve les relations entre la sphère de l’école et celle du travail et montre la place privilégiée accordée aux garçons dans le monde de la création (partie III). / This dissertation is based on the analytical patterns developed in sociology on labor and in sociology on education, in order to study the rise and evolution, and eventually the loss, of the fashion industry professions and its vocational schools. It is supported by a survey pursued through three educational institutions representing three different levels of education in the hierarchy of the school system : a private fashion designer school, a technical High school and a secondary school for vocational training. The methodology used associates long-term observations – 104 interviews with students, teachers and actors of the fashion world – as well as a commentary based on documents. The sociohistorical perspective adopted here allows us to observe the structure of a social world as well as the panel of professional trainings it offers. It rises through the 20th century allowing women to get access to a technical education ; it follows the evolutions of the activity that grows progressively from a blue-collar schooling to a higher level of education with an orientation towards creativity (Part 1). The analysis of the sociological structure of curriculum allows us to show the diversity of these institutions and to ask the question of the existence of a career path towards the fashion industry professions (Part 2). The Private schools, the most numerous in the field of fashion design, emphasize the trade to obtain these diplomas. The Professional insertion following these trainings challenges the relations between the school and the work spheres and shows the privileged place granted to young men in the world of fashion design and creation (Part 3).

Zugl.: Dortmund, Univ., Diss., 2005

Distributed generation (DG) is getting more and more popular due to the environmentally-friendly feature, the new generation unit developments, and the ability to operate in a remote area. By clustering the paralleled DGs, storage system and loads, a microgrid (MG) can offer a power system with increased reliability, flexibility, cost effectiveness, and energy efficient feature. Popular energy sources like photovoltaic modules (PV), wind turbines, and fuel cells require the power-electronic interface as the bridge to connect to the utility grid for usable transmission. The inverter-based microgrid system, however, suffers more challenges than traditional rotational power system. Those challenges, including much less over current capability, the nature of the intermittent renewable energy sources, a wide-band dynamic of generation units, and a large grid impedance variation, call for more careful system hardware and control designs to ensure a reliable system operation. Major design interests are found in (i) precision power flow control, (ii) proper current sharing, (iii) smooth transition between grid-tie and islanding modes, and (iv) stability analysis. This dissertation will cover a complete design and implementation of an experimental microgrid with paralleled power conditioning systems operating in the gridtie mode, islanding mode, and mode transfers. A universal inverter is proposed with the LCL filter to operate in both grid-tie and standalone mode without any hardware modification. Next, controllers of individual inverters running in basic microgrid modes will be discussed to ensure high quality output characteristics. The admittance compensation will also be proposed to avoid reverse power flow during the grid-tie connection transient. Combining previous designed single inverters, a CAN-bus multiinverter microgrid system will be established. The current sharing with the proposed frequency-decoupled transmission will be implemented to extend the transmission distance. Next, smooth mode transfer procedures between grid-tie mode and islanding mode will be suggested based on the circuit principles to minimize the excessive electrical stresses. Finally, the state-space analysis of the proposed multi-inverter microgrid system will be conducted to investigate the stability under system variations and optimize the system performance. Experimental and simulation results show that the designed universal inverter can provide stable outputs in different basic microgrid operation modes. With the proposed current sharing scheme, the output current is equally shared among paralleled inverters without a noticeable circulating current. Both the simulation and experimental results of mode transfer show that the multi-inverter based microgrid system is able to switch between grid-tie and islanding modes smoothly to guarantee an uninterrupted power supply to the critical loads. Based on eigenvalue analysis, the study of stability analysis also shows the agreement of the design, simulation and test results which further verifies the reliability of the designed multi-inverter microgrid system. / Ph. D.

Self-adaptivity, characterized by the ability to dynamically adjust behavior at runtime, is a growing trend in the evolution of modern embedded systems. While self-adaptive systems tend to be flexible and autonomous, self-adaptivity may inevitably complicate software design, test and analysis. A strategy for taming the growing software complexity of self-adaptive systems is to partition system behaviors into different operational modes specified at design time. Such a multi-mode system can change behavior by switching between modes at runtime under certain circumstances. Multi-mode systems can benefit from a complementary approach to the software development of complex systems: Component-Based Software Engineering (CBSE), which fosters reuse of independently developed software components. However, the state-of-the-art component-based development of multi-mode systems does not take full advantage of CBSE, as reuse of modes at component level is barely addressed. Modes are often treated as system properties, while mode switches are handled by a global mode manager. This centralized mode management entails global information of all components, whereas the global information may be inaccessible in component-based systems. Another potential problem is that a single mode manager does not scale well, particularly at design time,  for a large number of components and modes.   In this thesis we propose a distributed solution to the component-based development of multi-mode systems, aiming for a more efficient and scalable mode management. Our goal is to fully incorporate modes in software component reuse, supporting reuse of multi-mode components, i.e., components able to run in multiple modes. We have developed a generic framework, the Mode-Switch Logic (MSL), which not only supports reuse of multi-mode components but also provides runtime mechanisms for handling mode switch. MSL includes three fundamental elements: (1) a mode-aware component model with the formal specification of reusable multi-mode software components; (2) a mode mapping mechanism for the seamless composition of multi-mode components; and (3) a mode-switch runtime mechanism which is executed by each component in isolation from its functional execution and coordinates the mode switches of different components without the need of global mode information. The mode-switch runtime mechanism has been verified by model checking in conjunction with mathematical proofs. We also provide a mode-switch timing analysis for the runtime mechanism to respect real-time requirements.   MSL is dedicated to the mode aspect of a system irrespective of component execution semantics, thus independent of the choice of component models. We have integrated MSL in the ProCom component model with the extension of support for reuse of multi-mode components and distributed mode-switch handling. Although the distributed mode-switch handling of MSL is more flexible and scalable than the conventional centralized approach, when components are deployed on a single hardware platform and global mode information is available, centralized mode-switch handling is more efficient in terms of runtime overhead and mode-switch time. Hence, MSL is supplemented with a mode transformation technique to enhance runtime mode-switch efficiency by converting the distributed mechanism to a centralized mechanism. MSL together with the mode transformation technique has been implemented in a prototype tool where one can build multi-mode systems by reusing multi-mode components. The applicability of MSL is demonstrated in two proof-of-concept case studies. / ARROWS - Design Techniques for Adaptive Embedded Systems

Purpose of this research is that capillary optic fiber transmission and energy distribution of internal energy. Contains only single from the initial silica capillary fiber energy transfer within the simulation, and then changing the different input conditions (different incident angles, multi- mode and single mode) optical observation of the capillary wall modes and modal distribution between hole mode. Mode simulation, containing only the capillary in the simple addition of a layer of high-dielectric fiber optic ring to change its transmission mechanism, by analog control of its high dielectric ring geometry (thickness) of air holes the size of its hole mode can simulate the type of transmission mode number. By single-and double- layer energy transfer capillary mode simulation and modal changes in different input conditions, and further understanding of the capillary mode fiber transmission characteristics. Combining the concept of adding fiber coupler and single-mode optical fiber capillary to produce a new original, and then by capillary tube method to make thick plugs can be more convenient and rapid production of a new type of coupler components.

The dependence of single-wall carbon nanotubes-based saturable absorber (SWCNTs SA) on concentration and thickness for mode-locked laser pulse formation is comprehensively investigated. The peak absorption wavelength of SWCNTs SA is engineered within the gain band-width of erbium-doped fiber centered near 1550 nm. The optima full-width half-maximum (FWHM) of pulses was obtained as the concentrations of SWCNTs SA was 0.05 wt%. This indicates that the laser pulse become shorter as the concentration of SWCNTs SA increases. The result also showed that the FWHM of pulses from 3.43 to 1.85 ps were found as the thickness of SWCNTs SA increased from 8 to 100 um. This also indicates that the laser pulse become shorter as the thickness of SWCNTs SA increases. However, the pulse width significantly broadened as concentration increased to 0.1 wt% and became stable as thickness of SWCNTs SA increased from 100 to 264 um for passively mode-locked lasers. An in-depth study on the optimum fabrication of concentration and thickness of SWCNTs SA for laser pulse formation may allow developing a cost-effective mode-locked laser with high performance as well as broadly benefit to the utilization of many other low-cost nanodevices.

Syfte & forskningsfråga: Syftet med denna uppsats är att skapa en djupare förståelse för utvecklingen av dagens modemarknad och fenomenet “fast fashion” genom att analysera och undersöka trenders uppkomst, hur trender anammas av konsumenter samt konsumenters inverkan på modebranschen. Uppsatsens forskningsfråga formulerades med uppsatsens syfte i åtanke och frågan blev följande: Vad är karaktäristiskt för dagens modemarknad och vilken betydelse har konceptet “fast fashion” för marknadens utveckling? Metod: Vår uppsats är baserad på en kvalitativ forskningsmetod då vi önskade att få en djupare förståelse kring det valda forskningsämnet. Vidare kom uppsatsen att få en abduktiv karaktär då vi haft ett växelspel mellan vald teori och empiri. För att vidare få en bredare syn på forskningsområdet valde vi att variera oss i vårt urval av respondenter och intervjuade därför 7 respondenter med olika positioner inom modebranschen. Slutsatser: I uppsatsens analys har vi kunnat se ett mönster där vår valda teori i stor utsträckning stämmer överens med vår empiriska insamling. I vår studie framkom det även att trender är både komplexa och svåra att specificera samt att de både kan pågå under en kortare samt längre tid. Vidare visade det sig att konsumenter idag har en stor påverkan på modebranschen, där de mångt och mycket kan ses som trendsättare. Fast fashion är ett koncept som har bidragit till snabba trendväxlingar på marknaden och via vår studie framkom det att konsumenters syn på fast fashion har förändrats, och att de numera önskar ett lugnare tempo.

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