O presente trabalho tem por objetivo relacionar a ação das ondas incidentes no arco praial de Massaguaçú com a presença e o comportamento de feições morfológicas como as cúspides praiais. O conjunto de dados utilizados consiste em uma série de imagens provenientes do sistema Argus. Esse sistema utiliza cinco câmeras de alta resolução resultando em uma cobertura de 180° da zona costeira. A partir destas imagens realizou-se a digitalização das cúspides praiais encontrando-se duas linhas de cúspides, uma na face praial superior (CFS) e a outra na face praial inferior (CFI). Em conjunto com os dados de imagem foi analisado o clima de ondas atuantes durante o período. A presença de feições rítmicas foi alta no arco praial de Massaguaçú, sendo praticamente predominante na face praial superior. O espaçamento médio da CFS foi superior ao espaçamento da CFI e a alternância das condições atuantes foi determinante na redução do espaçamento assim como condições energéticas baixas. O aumento do espaçamento das cúspides ocorreu sob condições energéticas médias à altas e sob condições extremas observou tanto a destruição como o aumento das feições rítmicas. A interação entre o espraiamento e a morfologia existente, modulado pela variação do nível d\'água, foi um dos motores para a formação de cúspides em níveis inferiores enquanto que as condições extremas causaram sua destruição. / This study aims to relate the action of incident waves on Massaguaçú\'s beach with the presence and the behavior of morphological features such as beach cusps. The set of data used consists in a series of images from the Argus system. This system uses five high-resolution cameras resulting in a 180 ° coverage of the coastal zone. From these images, realize the presence of beach cusps lying in two rows on the beach face, one in the upper beach face (CFS) and the other in the lower beach face (CFI). At the same time with the image data the wave regime acting at Massaguaçú\'s beach was analyzed during the period. The presence of rhythmic features was almost constant Massaguaçú\'s beach face, nearly predominant on the upper beach face. The average spacing of CFS was greater than the spacing of the CFI and the interchange in active conditions was crucial in reducing the spacing as well as low energy conditions. The increased spacing of the cusps occurred under medium to high energy conditions and under extreme conditions both as increased and destruction of the rhythmic features were observed. The interaction between the swash motions and the existing morphology, modulated by varying the water level, was important for the formation of cusps at lower levels while the extreme conditions caused its destruction.

Afin de lutter contre l'érosion du littoral, les phénomènes de submersion marine ou d'inondation, des rechargements sédimentaires issus de sable de dragage ont été réalisés au droit d'ouvrages clés le long de la façade maritime du Grand Port Maritime de Dunkerque (GPMD). L'objectif principal de cette étude est d'analyser l'évolution de différents types de rechargements sédimentaires le long d'ouvrages présentant un intérêt stratégique : un rechargement de plage de 1,5 millions de m³ (Mm³) face à la digue des Alliés dans la station balnéaire de Malo-les-Bains et un recharchement subtidal de 3 Mm³ face à la digue du Ruytingen à l'avant-port ouest du GPMD. Des levées topographiques et bathymétriques successifs ont permis d'établir des bilans sédimentaires des zones rechargées. Bien que ces bilans soient négatifs dans les deux cas, les pertes de sédiments restent modérées, notamment concernant l'opération de la digue des Alliés dont le volume a diminué de 12,3% en un peu plus de 3 ans. Une zone d'érosion marquée a été identifiée à l'ouest, tandis qu'une partie du sable est redistribué vers l'est sous l'effet des courants de marée et de la dérive littorale comme à Malo-les-Bains où la plage à l'est du rechargement bénéficie d'un apport sableux. Le rechargement subtidal a perdu une plus grande proportion de son volume de sable que le rechargement de plage. L'analyse des forçages météo-marins a montré que l'évolution morpho-sédimentaire des rechargements dépend de leur exposition aux houles, le rechargement subtidal face à la digue du Ruytingen étant plus exposé aux houles dominantes de secteur ouest que celui de Malo-les-Bains, plus influencé par les houles de nord-est. / In order to prevent coastal erosion and marine flooding, artificial replenishments using dredged sand have been carried out in front of key coastal structures along the coast of the Grand Port Maritime de Dunkerque (GPMD). The main objective of this study is to analyse the evolution of different types of artificial replenishments along structures of strategic interest of the GPMD : a beach nourishment of 1.5 million m³ (Mm³) in front of the dike called "Digue des Alliés" in the seaside resort of Malo-les-Bains and a subtidal nourishment of 3 Mm³ in front of the "Digue du Ruytingen" in the Western Port. Successive topographic and bathymetric surveys enabled to evaluate the sediment budgets of the nourished zones. Although the sediment budgets are negative in both cases, sans losses are nevertheless moderate compared to other artificial replenishments around the world, particularly for the beach fill in front of the "Digue des Alliés" where sediment volume decreased by 12.3% over three years. Significant erosion has been identified in the western part of the nourishment site, the eroded material being partly redistributed eastward along th beach of Malo-les-Bains under the influence of tidal currents and littoral drift. The subtidal replenishment lost a higher proportion of its initial sediment volume compared to the subaerial beach replenishment. Analysis of hydro-meteorological forcing showed that the morpho-sedimentary evolution of each operation strongly depends on their wave exposition, the subtidal replenishment in front of the "Digue du Ruytingen" being much more exposed to the dominant waves from W than the one in Malo-les-Bains more influenced by waves from NE.

O presente trabalho tem por objetivo relacionar a ação das ondas incidentes no arco praial de Massaguaçú com a presença e o comportamento de feições morfológicas como as cúspides praiais. O conjunto de dados utilizados consiste em uma série de imagens provenientes do sistema Argus. Esse sistema utiliza cinco câmeras de alta resolução resultando em uma cobertura de 180° da zona costeira. A partir destas imagens realizou-se a digitalização das cúspides praiais encontrando-se duas linhas de cúspides, uma na face praial superior (CFS) e a outra na face praial inferior (CFI). Em conjunto com os dados de imagem foi analisado o clima de ondas atuantes durante o período. A presença de feições rítmicas foi alta no arco praial de Massaguaçú, sendo praticamente predominante na face praial superior. O espaçamento médio da CFS foi superior ao espaçamento da CFI e a alternância das condições atuantes foi determinante na redução do espaçamento assim como condições energéticas baixas. O aumento do espaçamento das cúspides ocorreu sob condições energéticas médias à altas e sob condições extremas observou tanto a destruição como o aumento das feições rítmicas. A interação entre o espraiamento e a morfologia existente, modulado pela variação do nível d\'água, foi um dos motores para a formação de cúspides em níveis inferiores enquanto que as condições extremas causaram sua destruição. / This study aims to relate the action of incident waves on Massaguaçú\'s beach with the presence and the behavior of morphological features such as beach cusps. The set of data used consists in a series of images from the Argus system. This system uses five high-resolution cameras resulting in a 180 ° coverage of the coastal zone. From these images, realize the presence of beach cusps lying in two rows on the beach face, one in the upper beach face (CFS) and the other in the lower beach face (CFI). At the same time with the image data the wave regime acting at Massaguaçú\'s beach was analyzed during the period. The presence of rhythmic features was almost constant Massaguaçú\'s beach face, nearly predominant on the upper beach face. The average spacing of CFS was greater than the spacing of the CFI and the interchange in active conditions was crucial in reducing the spacing as well as low energy conditions. The increased spacing of the cusps occurred under medium to high energy conditions and under extreme conditions both as increased and destruction of the rhythmic features were observed. The interaction between the swash motions and the existing morphology, modulated by varying the water level, was important for the formation of cusps at lower levels while the extreme conditions caused its destruction.

CoordenaÃÃo de AperfeiÃoamento de NÃvel Superior / Aspectos da biologia populacional de Mellita quinquiesperforata foram estudados na praia da TaÃba, Cearà (03Â30,125âS; 038Â54,469âW), no perÃodo de junho de 2006 a agosto de 2007. A altura, perÃodo das ondas, temperatura, salinidade e granulometria foram registrados. Os dados de pluviosidade foram obtidos atravÃs da FundaÃÃo Cearense de Metereologia e Recursos HÃdricos (FUNCEME). Perfis de praia, parÃmetros adimensional de Dean (&#937;) e escalar da arrebentaÃÃo (&#931;), Ãndices da Praia (BI) e da ExtensÃo Relativa da Marà (RTR) foram calculados para a descriÃÃo do estado morfodinÃmico praial. Os animais foram coletados atravÃs de arrastos perpendiculares à praia, divididos em duas faixas de coleta (0-30m e 30-60m de distÃncia da zona de varrido das ondas). Para a anÃlise do ciclo reprodutivo, foram retiradas, mensalmente, as gÃnadas de 30 indivÃduos adultos com largura superior a 40mm, 20 delas para o processamento histolÃgico e 10 para o Ãndice Gonadal (IG). As cÃlulas iniciais e os estÃgios de desenvolvimento gonadal foram caracterizados, e cerca de 100 ovÃcitos foram medidos por mÃs. As mÃdias do IG foram testadas atravÃs da anÃlise de variÃncia unifatorial (ANOVA). Os indivÃduos coletados foram divididos em classes de tamanho com 20mm de amplitude. Para a anÃlise da distribuiÃÃo espacial foi calculada a densidade mÃdia por faixa de coleta e os valores foram plotados no software Sigma Plot (versÃo 10.0). Histogramas de freqÃÃncias de classes de 5mm (largura) foram analisados com o auxÃlio do software FISAT II (VersÃo 1.2.2) para a determinaÃÃo dos parÃmetros da curva de crescimento, recrutamento e mortalidade. AnÃlises de correlaÃÃo de Spearman (STATISTICA versÃo 6.0) relacionaram os parÃmetros ambientais com a densidade e com os estÃgios do desenvolvimento gonadal. Salinidade e pluviosidade apresentaram variaÃÃes significativas durante o perÃodo de estudo e a classificaÃÃo mÃdia do sedimento foi composta por areia fina. Os valores do parÃmetro de Dean (&#937;) e do BI classificaram a praia como intermediÃria, com perfis topogrÃficos apresentando diferenÃas durante o estudo. Os valores do parÃmetro escalar da arrebentaÃÃo indicaram dissipaÃÃo das ondas, e o RTR indicou a aÃÃo das marÃs como principal modificadora dos perfis de praia. DiferenÃas na coloraÃÃo das gÃnadas puderam caracterizar macroscopicamente o sexo; as fÃmeas apresentaram gÃnadas de cor lilÃs, enquanto que os machos, cor creme. As cÃlulas da linhagem germinativa e o padrÃo de desenvolvimento foram semelhantes aos equinÃides em geral, com um ciclo reprodutivo caracterizado pela freqÃÃncia de indivÃduos em estÃgio de reserva de nutrientes. De modo geral, machos e fÃmeas apresentaram sincronismo no desenvolvimento gonadal. A alocaÃÃo de nutrientes està relacionada à manutenÃÃo da espÃcie na zona de surfe e ao investimento no tamanho do gameta feminino. A densidade dos organismos apresentou diferenÃas significativas ao longo do estudo (p<0,01); o mÃs de novembro de 2006 apresentou a maior densidade, caracterizando o evento do recrutamento. NÃo houve diferenÃa significativa na distribuiÃÃo dos organismos dentre as faixas, embora exista uma tendÃncia à separaÃÃo de jovens e adultos, estando os primeiros mais prÃximos à linha de costa. Apenas os organismos entre 60-80mm foram mais abundantes significativamente na faixa 2 (30-60m). Foi verificada uma alta taxa de crescimento e mortalidade para a espÃcie, com longevidade estimada de 2,36 anos. A salinidade apresentou correlaÃÃo positiva significativa com a densidade, enquanto a pluviosidade apresentou correlaÃÃes com os estÃgios do desenvolvimento gonadal. Os resultados sugerem que em Mellita quinquiesperforata os fatores ambientais sÃo tÃo importantes quanto as demandas fisiolÃgicas. / Population biology aspects of Mellita quinquiesperforata were studied in TaÃba Beach, state of Cearà (03Â30,125âS; 038Â54,469âW) between June of 2006 and August of 2007. Wave height, period, temperature, salinity and granulometry were registered. Pluviosity data was obtained from FundaÃÃo Cearense de Meteorologia e Recursos HÃdricos (FUNCEME). Cross-shore profile, Dimentionless Deanâs Parameter (&#937;), Surf Scale Parameter (&#931;), Beach Index (BI) and Relative Tidal Range (RTR) were calculated for the morphodynamic beach description. Animals were sampled using a dredge perpendicular to the beach, divided into two line-transects (0 â 30 m and 30 â 60 m distant from the wave washing-zone). Monthly, the gonads of 30 adults with width superior to 40 mm were removed for the reproductive cycle analyses, 20 for histological processing and 10 for Gonad Index (GI), respectively. The initial cells and the gonad development stages were characterized and the average of 100 oocytes were measured a month. GI means were tested through unifatorial analysis of variance (ANOVA). Individuals were divided in size classes of 20 mm amplitude. Values of spatial distribution were calculated using the mean density in the sampling line-transect, results were plotted using the software Sigma Plot (10.0 version). Frequency class histograms of 5 mm (wide) were analyzed using software FISAT II (1.2.2 version) for determination of growth, recruitment and mortality. Spearman correlation analysis (STATISTICA 6.0 version) compared environmental parameters with density and the gonad development stages. Salinity and pluviosity presented significant variations during the study period and average classification of the sediment was composed by fine sand. Deanâs parameter (&#937;) and BI values classified the beach as intermediate, with topographic profile presenting differences during the study. The values of the surf scale parameter indicated a dissipation of waves and the RTR indicated the tidal action as the main modifier of the beach profile. Differences in the gonad colour could macroscopicaly classify gender; females presented lilac coloured gonad and males presented creamy coloured gonad. Germinative cells lineage and development patterns were similar, in general, to echinoids, with reproductive cicle characterized by the frequency of individuals in the nutrient reserve stage. In general, males and females presented synchronism in the gonadal development. The allocation of nutrients is related to the maintenance of the species in the surf-zone and the investment in the size of the females gamete. Organism densities presented significant differences (p < 0,01) along the study period; the month of november of 2006 presented highest density, characterizing the recruitment event. There were no significant differences in the organisms distribution along the transect-lines, although there is a tendency to separate juveniles from adults, where the former are nearest to the shoreline. Only 60 â 80 mm organisms were significantly more abundant in the transect-line 2 zone (30 â 60 m). It was observed a high growth rate and mortality for this species with longevity estimated in 2.36 years. Salinity was positively correlated with density, while pluviosity presented correlation with the gonad development stages. Results suggests that for Mellita quinquiesperforata the environmental factors are as important as the physiological demand.

Cette thèse traite de la morphodynamique pluri-décennale des environnements sableux soumis à l’action combinée des courants de marée et des vagues. Dans ces travaux, une approche de modélisation numérique basée sur les processus hydro-sédimentaires est utilisée, celle-ci étant combinée à des données collectées au sein du laboratoire LIENSs au cours de ces dernières années sur différents sites ateliers (i.e. données bathymétriques, hydrodynamiques, et sismiques). Afin de réaliser des simulations morphodynamiques de ce type d’environnement côtier, deux principaux développements ont été apportés au modèle : (1) la prise en compte de l’hétérogénéité granulométrique du sédiment, et (2) le calcul de l’évolution du fond suivant un schéma numérique basé sur le formalisme WENO et adapté à un maillage de type non-structuré. La première application du système de modélisation a concerné l'évolution rétrospective du banc de sable estuarien de la Longe de Boyard, situé en baie de Marennes-Oléron, sur la période 1960 à 2000. Les résultats de ce travail ont tout d'abord montré qu'en dépit de la morphologie globale du banc indiquant une dominance de la marée, la contribution des vagues était essentielle pour expliquer son évolution pluri-décennale. La rythmicité de l’accrétion sédimentaire observée et simulée dans la partie sud du banc a ensuite pu être analysée d'un point de vue stratigraphique, grâce à la prise en compte de l'hétérogénéité granulométrique du sédiment dans le modèle. Le lien entre la rythmicité des variations granulométriques du sédiment dans cette zone et la saisonnalité du climat de vagues a ainsi été mis en évidence. La seconde application du système de modélisation a concerné l’évolution de la flèche sableuse d'Arçay, située sur le littoral vendéen. Les résultats de simulation morphodynamique suggèrent que l’évolution de cette flèche, principalement contrôlée par les vagues, présente un comportement combinant allo-cyclicité et auto-cyclicité. / This work considers the pluri-decadal morphodynamic modeling of sandy coastal environments subjected to tides and waves. A process-based numerical model is used, together with a collection of field data from the LIENSs laboratory (i.e. bathymetric, hydrodynamic, and seismic data). To simulate the morphodynamic of these environments, two main numerical developments have been added to the model : (1) the sediment heterogeneity, and (2) the bed evolution computation following a WENO-based scheme adapted to unstructured grids. The first model application concerns the 40-year hindcast (period 1960 to 2000) of a wide estuary mouth sandbank located in the Marennes-Oléron bay : the Longe de Boyard sandbank. Numerical results suggest that this sandbank long-term evolution is strongly controlled by waves, in spite of its global tide-dominated morphology. Rhythmic nature of sediment accretion, which is observed and modeled in the south part of the bank, was then analyzed from a stratigraphic point of view thanks to the integration of sediment heterogeneity into the model. Grain size rhythmic variations in this area appeared to be related to local wave climate seasonality. The second model application considers the Arçay sandspit evolution (Vendée coast). Morphodynamic results suggest that this sandspit evolution, mainly controlled by waves, is characterized by a combination of both autogenic and external-influenced behaviors.

Nos connaissances et notre compréhension de la dynamique sédimentaire des plages macrotidales sont encore limitées de nos jours en raison d'un manque de données lié à la plus faible proportion de ces plages à l'échelle mondiale. Trois plages macrotidales à barres et à bâches du littoral de la Côte d'Opale dans le Nord de la France ont été choisies pour mener cette étude. Elle se base sur trois approches différentes visant à caractériser (1) le régime tidal et les conditions hydrodynamiques, (2) la morphologie de la zone intertidale et (3) les flux sédimentaires longitudinaux (FL) et transversaux (FC) dans diverses conditions tidales et énergétiques. Le transport a été mesuré dans la zone proche du déferlement à l’aide de pièges à sédiment de type Kraus (1987) permettant de caractériser le débit solide à plusieurs niveaux au dessus du fond au cours de conditions d'agitation faibles à modérées (Hs < 1 m). Malgré une uniformité des flux le long de la plage, les phénomènes de vidange des bâches par l’intermédiaire de chenaux perpendiculaires au trait de côte permettent l’introduction de volumes de sédiment significatifs, augmentant localement le FL. La distribution des flux à travers l’estran présente, quant à elle, une décroissance nette du bas de plage vers le haut de plage. Les mesures simultanées de FL et de FC ont démontré que le FC dirigé vers le haut de plage et la résultante du FC sont dans la plupart des cas supérieurs aux FL en raison de la plus forte intensité des vitesses de courant oscillatoire. Ces résultats mettent en évidence des mouvements significatifs de volume de sable à travers la zone intertidale à l’échelle de la mesure, ce qui influence fortement la morphodynamique de la plage. L’ensemble de la zone intertidale est toutefois apparue relativement stable, avec des changements plus significatifs à court terme qu'à plus long terme. Les mesures de transport ont permis de mettre en lumière le rôle fondamental des bâches dans la dynamique des plages macrotidales. Ces dépressions inter-barres sont en effet responsables de la canalisation du sédiment le long du rivage, limitant ainsi les transports sédimentaires transversaux et par conséquent la migration des barres intertidales. Il est vraisemblable que le temps de résidence et l'intensité des processus hydro-sédimentaires jouent un rôle prépondérant dans la dynamique des barres intertidales. Les mesures ont également été comparées avec plusieurs estimations du transport sédimentaire issues de modèles numériques et morphodynamiques. Bien que les flux calculés surestiment en général le transport mesuré, certaines formules semblent plus adaptées pour déterminer le FL dans la zone de levée. / Our knowledge and understanding of the sediment dynamics of sandy macrotidal beaches is still limited by a lack of data from these macrotidal environments. This limitation is due to the relatively small proportion of macrotidal coasts in the world. Three sandy beaches on the coast of Northern France were chosen to conduct this study. Three scientific approaches were used: 1) characterization of tidal and waves energy conditions using wave and current meters deployed on the foreshore; 2) beach morphology survey and 3) estimation of longshore (FL) and cross-shore (FC) sediment transport using streamer traps similar to those designed by Kraus (1987). Sand transport was measured about 1 m water, next to the breaker zone and either in the shoaling zone or in the surf zone; under low to moderate waves energy conditions (Hs < 1 m). In spite of a low longshore variability in sediment transport due to a high degree of hydrodynamic uniformity along the shore, runnel drainage can locally increase sediment transport rates. Cross-shore distribution appeared to be more variable as sediment transport decreased from the lower to the upper part of the beach. Onshore, offshore and longshore sediment transport measured simultaneously showed that under various energetic conditions, FC appeared to be generally higher than FL. Although net littoral drift is directed towards the Belgian coast, these results suggest that significant volumes of sand move across the intertidal zone. These significant volumes of sand most likely have a strong influence on the morphodynamics of the beach. Daily topographical survey has shown little morphological variations while sediment transport rates appeared very variable and very significant, especially during the highest wave energy conditions. Sediment transport measurements across the foreshore highlight the important role played by inter-bar troughs in the morphodynamics of macrotidal beaches. Higher bed roughness in these depressions is responsible for an increase in sediment resuspension through the water column. Suspended transport is therefore favoured in troughs and hinders the cross-shore sediment transport, which is responsible for the bar migration across the intertidal zone. Morphological changes are dependent of the time residence of the hydrodynamic zones, but the morphodynamics of the intertidal bars appear to be strongly controlled by the amplitude of the incident waves. FL were also compared with calculated data computed using from numerical and morphodynamic model. Although computed transport rates are generally higher than in situ measurements, it appears that some formulae provide better estimate of FL, especially in the shoaling zone

O presente estudo modificou o modelo parabólico da forma em planta de equilíbrio de Medellín et al., 2009, proposto para praias de enseada com desembocaduras, incorporando um parâmetro relacionado à dinâmica costeira, que seria o volume de areia necessário para formar a praia emersa próxima à desembocadura. Foram escolhidas 27 desembocaduras na costa brasileira e obtidos parâmetros da dinâmica costeira e estuarina, através de imagens do Googleearth e dados de ondas e marés astronômicas dos programas SMC-TOOLS e WXTide32, respectivamente. O modelo parabólico foi aplicado e não se ajustou adequadamente, com diferenças com relação à linha de costa de 20-40m até 80m. Logo, foi realizada sua adaptação à costa brasileira, apresentando uma moderada a baixa dispersão dos coeficientes A e B de 77 % e 64%, respectivamente. Sua validação apresentou ajuste bom a satisfatório, com diferenças médias de 5m até máximas de 15m com relação à linha de costa. Posteriormente, foi realizada a modificação do modelo parabólico que minimizou a dispersão dos coeficientes A e B com um ajuste de 98 % e 81%, respectivamente. Sua validação apresentou um ajuste excelente a bom, com diferenças médias de 3-5m até máximas de 10m com relação à linha de costa. / This study modified the equilibrium plan form formulations proposed by Medellín et al., (2009) to embayments beachs with inlets, by incorporating a parameter related to coastal dynamics, that would be the volume of sand required to build the aerial beach close to the inlet. For this study 27 embayments beaches with inlets were chosen on the Brazilian coast and obtained parameters of dynamics coastal and estuarine, through GoogleEarth images and waves and astronomical tide datas series by the SMC-TOOLS and WXTide32 programs, respectively. The Medellín parabolic model was applied and did not fit properly, with differences regarding the shoreline of 20-40m up to maximum of 80m. Therefore, their adaptation to the Brazilian coast was carried out, which showed a moderate to low dispersion of the coefficients A and B of 77% and 64%, respectively. Their validation showed good to satisfactory fit, with mean differences regarding the shoreline of 5m up to maximum of 15m. Subsequently, the modification of the parabolic model was carried out which minimized the dispersion of the coefficients A and B with a fit of 98% and 81%, respectively. Their validation showed an excellent to good fit, with mean differences regarding the shoreline of 3-5m up to maximum of 10m.

A dinâmica de praia constitui conhecimento elementar em obras de engenharia e na compreensão da evolução costeira ao longo do Quaternário recente. Buscou-se avaliar a variação temporal de curto período da morfologia e do volume de sedimento em um segmento na porção sul da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul de São Paulo. Os resultados permitiram algumas interpretações, tanto em escala diária, como sazonal. As morfologias e os volumes do trecho estudado apresentaram maior similaridade entre as campanhas de maio de 2005 e janeiro de 2006, com estágio morfodinâmico de praia dissipativa, e entre agosto e novembro de 2005, com estágio de praia intermediária do tipo banco e calha. As ondas de sul com alturas de até 1 m e período médio entre 7 e 8 s atuaram no processo de engordamento da praia emersa, enquanto que as ondas desta mesma direção com alturas a partir de 1,5 m e período médio entre 8 e 10 s exerceram papel erosivo. De forma inversa, as ondas de leste com até 1 m de altura e período médio entre 6 e 8 s exerceram papel erosivo e com até 1,5 m e período médio entre 6 e 7 s, papel deposicional. / The knowledge of beach dynamics is fundamental in any coastal engineering projects as well as in the coastal evolution comprehension during the Late Quaternary. The aim of this study is to evaluate the short-term variations in morphology and sediment volume in a beach segment located in the southern portion of the Ilha Comprida, southern coast of the state of São Paulo, Brazil. The results allowed us to get important conclusions on daily and seasonal variations in beach morphology and behaviour. The morphology and volume data show similarity between may/2005 and jan/2006, with dissipative morphodynamic state characteristics, as well as between aug/2005 and nov/2005, characterized by an intermediate morphodynamic state. Southerly waves reaching 1m high and mean period between 7 and 8 s acts on the emerged part of the segment in a depositional way as well as southerly waves higher than 1,5 m and period between 8 and 10 s cause erosion in the same part of the beach profile. Easterly waves act in an opposite way, with lower heights causing erosion and higher causing deposition.

O presente estudo modificou o modelo parabólico da forma em planta de equilíbrio de Medellín et al., 2009, proposto para praias de enseada com desembocaduras, incorporando um parâmetro relacionado à dinâmica costeira, que seria o volume de areia necessário para formar a praia emersa próxima à desembocadura. Foram escolhidas 27 desembocaduras na costa brasileira e obtidos parâmetros da dinâmica costeira e estuarina, através de imagens do Googleearth e dados de ondas e marés astronômicas dos programas SMC-TOOLS e WXTide32, respectivamente. O modelo parabólico foi aplicado e não se ajustou adequadamente, com diferenças com relação à linha de costa de 20-40m até 80m. Logo, foi realizada sua adaptação à costa brasileira, apresentando uma moderada a baixa dispersão dos coeficientes A e B de 77 % e 64%, respectivamente. Sua validação apresentou ajuste bom a satisfatório, com diferenças médias de 5m até máximas de 15m com relação à linha de costa. Posteriormente, foi realizada a modificação do modelo parabólico que minimizou a dispersão dos coeficientes A e B com um ajuste de 98 % e 81%, respectivamente. Sua validação apresentou um ajuste excelente a bom, com diferenças médias de 3-5m até máximas de 10m com relação à linha de costa. / This study modified the equilibrium plan form formulations proposed by Medellín et al., (2009) to embayments beachs with inlets, by incorporating a parameter related to coastal dynamics, that would be the volume of sand required to build the aerial beach close to the inlet. For this study 27 embayments beaches with inlets were chosen on the Brazilian coast and obtained parameters of dynamics coastal and estuarine, through GoogleEarth images and waves and astronomical tide datas series by the SMC-TOOLS and WXTide32 programs, respectively. The Medellín parabolic model was applied and did not fit properly, with differences regarding the shoreline of 20-40m up to maximum of 80m. Therefore, their adaptation to the Brazilian coast was carried out, which showed a moderate to low dispersion of the coefficients A and B of 77% and 64%, respectively. Their validation showed good to satisfactory fit, with mean differences regarding the shoreline of 5m up to maximum of 15m. Subsequently, the modification of the parabolic model was carried out which minimized the dispersion of the coefficients A and B with a fit of 98% and 81%, respectively. Their validation showed an excellent to good fit, with mean differences regarding the shoreline of 3-5m up to maximum of 10m.

Les dunes côtières constituent un des éléments fondamentaux de la dynamique des systèmes côtiers sableux. Leur stabilité dépend essentiellement de leur capacité à résister aux effets des tempêtes et à se reconstituer après l'érosion. Dans le contexte actuel du changement climatique, la probable hausse du niveau de la mer devrait affecter considérablement les systèmes côtiers et de surcroît augmenter la vulnérabilité des cordons dunaires à l'érosion.L'objectif principal de cette thèse est d'étudier l'évolution des littoraux dunaires de la Côte d'Opale en adoptant une approche à plusieurs échelles de temps afin d'évaluer leur capacité de résistance et/ou de régénération face aux événements tempétueux. A long terme, l'étude de l'évolution du trait de côte sur près de 68 ans, à partir de photographies aériennes orthorectifiées, a révélé que plus de la moitié des littoraux dunaires de la Côte d'Opale sont stables ou en accumulation et possèdent donc une bonne capacité de résilience, malgré les nombreuses tempêtes ayant affecté ce littoral depuis le début des années 50. L'analyse de leur évolution sur un pas de temps de 5 ans a mis en évidence une forte variabilité spatiale et temporelle directement liée aux forçages météo-marins, notamment aux épisodes tempétueux associés à des hauts niveaux d'eaux. A moyen et court termes, des levés topographiques LiDAR et des mesures in-situ, couplés aux données météorologiques et hydrodynamiques, ont révélé une réponse morphologique différente entre des secteurs dunaires adjacents. Celle-ci est liée à la variation des paramètres morphologiques (altitude de pied de dune, largeur et volume du haut de plage) au cours des périodes étudiées. Les résultats montrent également que les processus de régénération peuvent être très longs sur nos sites d'étude, ce qui suggère que les dunes cotières qui, jusqu'à présent étaient relativement stables, risquent de connaître des épisodes d'érosion plus fréquents avec l'élévation contemporaine du niveau de la mer. / Coastal dunes are fundamental elements of sandy coastal systems dynamic. They may experience a variable response to coastal erosion, in relation to their ability to withstand storm effects and to recover from erosion. Global sea level rise, related to global warming, would considerably affect coastal systems and hence the sensitivity of coastal dunes to erosion. The main objective of this thesis is to study the evolution of the Côte d'Opale coastal dunes at different time scales in order to evoluate their capacity to resist and/or to recover from storm impacts. Over long term periods (nearly 68 years), shoreline evolution analysis from orthorectified aerial photographs revealed that more than half of the Côte d'Opale coastal dunes are stable or prograding and thus, are resilient. Their evolution over 5-year periods highlighted a strong spatial and temporal variability which is directly linked to weather and hydrodynamic conditions, especially the occurence of storms during heigh water levels. At medium and short term scales, topographic surveys from LiDAR and in-situ measurements, coupled with metrological and hydrodynamic data, showed a different morphological response between adjacent coastal dune areas. This is related to variations in morphological parameters such as dune foot elevation, width and volume of the upper-beach during the studied periods. Results show also that coastal dunes recovery from storms can be a very long process at our study areas, suggesting that foredunes in a state of mesoscale stability may experience more frequent erosion with currents sea level rise.