Nearshore populations have been depleted and some have not yet recovered. Therefore, theoretical studies focus on improving fisheries management and designing marine protected areas (MPAs). Depleted populations may be undergoing an Allee effect, i.e. a decrease in fitness at low densities. Here, I constructed a marine metapopulation model that included pre- and post-dispersal Allee effects using a network theory approach. Networks represent metapopulations as groups of nodes connected by dispersal paths. With this model I answered four questions: What is the role of Allee effects on habitat occupancy? Are MPAs effective in recovering exploited populations? What is the importance of larval dispersal patterns in preventing local extinctions due to exploitation and Allee effects? Can exploitation fragment nearshore metapopulations? When weak Allee effects are included, habitat occupancy drops as larval retention decreases because more larvae are lost to unsuitable habitat. With strong Allee effects habitat occupancy also drops at high larval retention because more larvae are needed to overcome the Allee effect. Post-dispersal Allee effects seem more detrimental for nearshore metapopulations. MPA effectiveness seems also lower in a post-dispersal Allee effect scenario. In overexploited systems, local populations that go extinct are also less likely to recover even after protecting the whole coastline. In exploited nearshore metapopulations with Allee effects, local occupancy or the recovery of local populations depends not only on larval inflow from neighbor populations, but also on larval inflow for these neighbors. Nearshore metapopulations with intense fishing mortality and Allee effects may also suffer a decrease in dispersal strength and fragmentation. Population fragmentation occurs when large populations are split into smaller groups. A tool for detecting partitioning in a network is modularity. The modularity analysis performed for red abalone in the Southern California Bight showed that exploitation increases partitioning through time before the entire metapopulation collapses. These findings call for research effort in estimating the strength of potential Allee effects to prevent stock collapse and assess MPA effectiveness, evaluating the predictability of local occupancy by centrality metrics to help identify important sites for conservation, and using modularity analysis to quantify the health of exploited metapopulations to prevent their collapse. / text

The spatial and temporal structure of the flow, vorticity and stress over equilibrium orbital-scale sand ripples are investigated at turbulence-resolving scales with a wide-band coherent Doppler profiler (MFDop) in an oscillating tray apparatus. The oscillation period and horizontal excursion were 10 s and 0.5 m. Velocity profiles were acquired with 3 mm vertical resolution and at a 42 Hz sampling rate. Ripple wavelength and amplitude were 25 cm and 2.2 cm. The MFDop measurements are used to investigate the development of the lee vortex as a function of phase, and the co-evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, Reynolds stress and turbulence production. Shear stress is determined from the vertically-integrated vorticity equation and using the double-averaging approach. Friction factors obtained from the two methods are comparable and range from 0.1 to 0.2.

>Coastal and marine resources have been in global decline the past three decades. Research suggests that the decline is due to an undervaluation of ecosystem services. The Natural Capital Project (Natcap) has developed models to assess the impact of human activities on the sustained delivery of ecosystem services within terrestrial and marine environments. With the use of Natcap models, this case study (located at Cox Bay, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada), examined coastal protection services provided by nearshore habitats, and provides an economic valuation of these services. The model results indicate that nearshore habitats do play a role in reducing coastal vulnerability and coastal erosion, with an "avoided damages" cost of $1 million. Sand dunes provided the greatest amount of coastal protection, whereas seagrasses were found to have a negligible effect. These outcomes can inform policy and decision makers about trade-offs regarding habitat protection, coastal development and climate change adaptation.

The ecological importance of drifting will depend on the abundance of drifting algae and whether it is reproductively viable. However, the ability of adult plants to successfully disperse long-distances by drifting is largely unknown, particularly for fucoids. The abundance, species composition, and reproductive status of drifting algae was examined by transect surveys around Kaikoura and Banks Peninsula. Abundance and species composition varied between sites, but all drifting algae that were in reproductive season, and had reproductive structures intact, were reproductively active. The reproductive longevity and viability of drifting and beach-cast Hormosira banksii, Durvillaea antarctica and Cytophora torulosa was compared with attached populations. Drifting algae remained reproductively viable, and fecundity did not differ from that of attached algae. Viable propagules were released from drifting algae for the duration of the experiments (H. banksii 57 days, D. antarctica 62 days, and C. torulosa 43 days). In contrast, beach-cast algae ceased to release propagules after 14 days. Dispersal by drifting relies on offshore transport after detachment. To determine the influence of wind and tidal currents on the nearshore transport of drifting algae, tagged H. banksii, D. antarctica, C. torulosa and GPS-tracked drifters were released from shore. Drifters generally moved in the direction of the prevailing wind, but some influence of tidal direction and bathymetry was detected. Offshore winds and outgoing tides were favourable for the offshore transport of surface drifting algae. Following dispersal and arrival at new locations, the distance between gametes may be important in determining the fertilisation success of dioecious species. Experiments testing the fertilisation success of H. banksii and D. antarctica, over increasing distances, showed that fertilisation success decreased with increasing distance between male and female gametes. Despite this, eggs were fertilised when male and female gametes were up to 2m apart, and sperm remained viable for 2 hours.

The nearshore current field, defined here as the residual horizontal flow after averaging over the incident wave period, exhibits variability at a range of time and space scales. Some of the variable currents are low frequency gravity wave motions. However, variable, rotational (in the sense of possessing vertical vorticity) flow can also exist as part of the overall nearshore current field. A field and numerical modelling investigation of these variable rotational currents has been carried out. Drifters, which were developed for surfzone use, enabled measurement of the nearshore current structure; the design and testing of these new instruments is described. Two sets of field measurements, using the new drifters and Eulerian instruments were carried out for conditions with swell perpendicular to a plane beach and in strong longshore currents. In the perpendicular swell conditions, an interesting and well-defined feature of the measured trajectories was the development of transient rip currents. Discrete vortices were also observed. In the longshore current case, trajectories with the longshore current displacement removed had complex meandering paths. Lagrangian data were used to make estimates of length scales and dispersion, both of which provide strong evidence that the current field cannot be due to low frequency gravity waves alone. Under the assumption of equipartition of kinetic and potential energy for low frequency gravity waves, Eulerian measurements of velocities and pressure show significant energy due to non-divergent, rotational flow in both the perpendicular swell and longshore current case. A numerical model that can simulate horizontal flow with a directionally spread, random wave field incident on a plane beach was implemented. The model developed transient rip currents that are qualitatively very similar to those seen in the drifter trajectories from the field. The number and intensity of rip currents in the model depended on the beach slope and incident wave spectra. The energy content and cross-shore flux (and hence transport of material) of the rotational current flow component in the simulated flow fields is comparable to that due to low frequency gravity waves. The modelling also provided some evidence that there may be universal characteristics of the rotational currents. The field results and modelling show that variable rotational currents are ubiquitous in the field even when longshore currents and hence shear waves are not present. The term “infragravity turbulence” is suggested to describe the general class of nearshore hydrodynamics not directly associated with shear waves, which is largely disorganised, but contains well defined features such as transient rips currents and large scale horizontal vortices. The results have important implications in the understanding of the transport of material, including sediment, biological material, pollution, and sometimes bathers, in the nearshore zone.

Changes in the biosphere require ecological baselines in order to compare past, present, and future conditions and identify their effects. Establishing ecological baselines for infauna in southeastern Florida is a key component to understanding effects of current and future disturbances; however, nearshore sediment infaunal communities are neither as thoroughly investigated nor as well understood as, for example, coral reefs, seagrass beds, and mangroves. Baseline studies help assess and monitor changes due, for example, to human population growth, sea level change, and global warming. Therefore, six benthic cores were collected quarterly from six locations from May 2015 to February 2016 using a 7.7-cm PVC corer to examine macroinfaunal composition, richness and diversity in relation to environment, month, and sediment characteristics (e.g., composition and sphericity). Results suggest a latitudinal gradient of infaunal abundance and diversity, which was negatively correlated with median grain size. The middle sites located nearer the Florida Current and adjacent to the extensive carbonate deep ridge complex recorded higher percentages of carbonate and median grain size than the northernmost and southernmost sites. The dominant fauna included polychaetes (chiefly Armandia agilis, Paraonis fulgens, and Leitoscoloplos fragilis), isopods (Eurydice piperata and Ancinus depressus), and mysid shrimp (Chlamydopleon dissimile). Polychaetes dominated most samples and sites; however, peracarid crustaceans (chiefly isopods) dominated three sites in May and four sites in February samples. The recency of beach replenishments showed no long term effects on the infauna. This study provides an initial baseline that will permit comparison with future macroinfaunal and sediment studies along the southeastern Florida coast.

Multiple scales of beach morphodynamic processes ranging from those of wave-breaking induced turbulence, individual wave, storm, seasonal, to inter-annual are examined in this dissertation based on both laboratory and field data. These processes were simulated using process-based numerical models and data-driven models. At a microscale, separating turbulence from orbital motion under breaking waves in the surf zone is essential to understanding wave-energy dissipation. Velocity data under monochromatic and random waves in the large-scale sediment transport facility (LSTF) were analyzed. Moving averaging provides a simple method for extracting turbulence from velocity measurements under random breaking waves collected at a reasonably high frequency. Various moving averaging time intervals were examined. An optimum moving averaging interval of approximately 30° to 42° phase angle (relative to peak wave period) allows a reasonable extraction of turbulence. An adaptive moving averaging with variable averaging time at wave crest and trough are proposed to improve the effect of turbulence extraction. At a mesoscale, hydrodynamic conditions associated with onshore migration of a sandbar and the subsequent equilibrium state of a stable bar were examined in the LSTF. Wave and near bottom velocity across the surf zone were measured during the onshore sandbar migration. The near-bottom velocity skewness indicates that before the sandbar reached equilibrium, the velocity was skewed offshore in the nearshore region, and skewed onshore seaward of the bar. The velocity skewness pattern reversed when the beach profile reached equilibrium and the sandbar became stable. The peak onshore directed acceleration was greater than the peak offshore directed acceleration throughout the surf zone during the periods of both onshore migrating and stable sandbar. The macroscale portion of the study examines the beach processes, particularly the morphodynamics of nearshore bar, at storm and seasonal scales. The bar height and bar position were extracted from bimonthly surveyed beach-profiles spaced at 300 m along the 22-km long Sand Key barrier island, West-Central Florida from October 2010 to August 2015. Seasonal beach cycle in the study area is illustrated by onshore sandbar migration during the summer and offshore sandbar migration during the winter, while subaerial beach remains rather stable. Alongshore variations of onshore and offshore sandbar migration were observed over storm events. The water depth over the pre-storm sandbar crest, or the bar crest elevation, is a major factor controlling the onshore or offshore sandbar movement. The offshore moving sandbar tends to have a shallower pre-storm bar crest, while the onshore moving sandbar tends to have a deeper pre-storm bar crest. A dynamic equilibrium bar height of 0.5 m for the study area was identified. The sandbar tends to evolve toward this equilibrium height during the seasonal cycle. The energetic conditions associated with Tropical Storm Debby caused a deviation from the above dynamic equilibrium conditions. The sandbar at most of the profile locations became higher than the pre-storm bar height regardless of the initial height of being greater or less than 0.5 m. After the storm, the higher and shallower bar experienced substantial erosion, the eroded sand was deposited in the trough landward. This resulted in a lower sandbar height, returning to the dynamic equilibrium height of 0.5 m. The Unibest-TC model (Walstra et al., 2012) is able to capture the measured trend of bar migration. The Modelling results suggest that offshore bar migration is dominated by suspended sediment transport. While onshore bar migration is driven mainly by bedload transport. At megascale, a data-driven model was developed to predict beach-profile evolution at multiple-annual scale. Empirical Orthogonal Function analysis was conducted on a time-series beach profile (R61) to identify temporal and spatial trends. Trends in the temporal EOF are modeled using a simple curve fitting. In this case, logarithmic and linear trends were identified. After the trend in temporal EOF values are identified, the curve fitting can be calibrated with 14-month data. The calibrated temporal EOF curve yielded accurate reproduction of profiles. The close examination of multiple scales of beach processes provides a comprehensive understanding of nearshore morphodynamics.

In the marine realm, there has been considerable habitat degradation caused by multiple human disturbances that often act synergistically, strongly affecting fish and invertebrate populations and, consequently, one of the major stakeholders of these resources, fishers. However, the mechanisms underlying how marine habitats support fisheries remain understudied. In this dissertation I examined the importance of fish habitat at global, regional and local scales in two distinct systems (mangrove habitats in the tropics and rockfish habitats in inshore waters of Vancouver Island) combining a suite of different approaches. First, I explored the mangrove-fishery linkage relationship by conducting a global meta-analysis. I found strong evidence supporting the importance of mangrove area to enhance fisheries. This relationship, however, varied across countries, likely based on regional geomorphological settings and fishery management policies. Subsequently, I determined the use of mangrove and adjacent habitats by fish in a tropical lagoon system in the continental Caribbean (Colombia), systems often overlooked in the Caribbean when analyzing mangroves as fish habitat. I collected fish with gillnets at different distances from mangroves and at different sites within the same lagoon system. While fish used mangroves, fish abundance was not higher in these habitats compared to adjacent ones, as predicted. However, diversity tended to be higher in mangroves. Nevertheless, the major driver affecting abundance, diversity and biomass was salinity. That is, diversity and abundance decreased as salinity increased. Next, I used a Local Ecological Knowledge approach to explore the mangrove-fishery linkage relationship because fishers are seldom incorporated into such relationships. By conducting semi-structured interviews I found that fishers fish close to their village and to mangroves, that in addition to fishing they use mangroves for firewood and as construction material. Fishers also agreed that mangroves are important for their fishing activity, as these habitats are critical for fish and crustaceans caught in the system. Finally, I examined the importance of derived benthic parameters for rockfish abundance and distribution at large spatial scales (100s km) in inshore waters of Vancouver Island. I established that higher complexity better explains presence and higher abundance of rockfish. Furthermore, the results provided valuable information for fishery and spatial management and habitat conservation to help recover rockfish populations. All together, these findings highlight the urgency to preserve coastal marine habitats for both juvenile and adult marine organisms to sustain small-scale fisheries as a food source and for traditional purposes. While conserving habitats is a key component of a broader and more complex ecosystem approach that includes overfishing and other anthropogenic pressures, in the absence of a holistic approach the chances of success are minimal. / Graduate / 2019-04-18

京都大学 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(工学) / 甲第23149号 / 工博第4793号 / 新制||工||1750(附属図書館) / 京都大学大学院工学研究科社会基盤工学専攻 / (主査)教授 平石 哲也, 准教授 馬場 康之, 教授 森 信人 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当 / Doctor of Philosophy (Engineering) / Kyoto University / DFAM

Wave models are an integral part of coastal engineering due to their ability to quantify information that is either unobtainable or unavailable. However, these models rely heavily on the input of a directional wave spectrum that describes the variation of energy with frequency and direction. This study investigated how five methods for computing the directional wave spectrum perform within the nearshore spectral wave model, STWAVE. The results of the five experimental runs showed that overall, the greatest differences between spectra were observed in the significant wave height parameter. The mean wave direction showed greater differences at the offshore model domain boundary and lesser differences as the wave enters the nearshore; and the peak period had fewer differences at the boundary, but at the nearshore the differences were dependent upon the presence of wind forcing. Winds had a significant impact on observed differences between the spectra in the domain by dominating the wave field variation.