The skin is the largest and most easily accessible organ of the human body thus making it the ideal route for systemic drug delivery. The transdermal route of drug delivery offers several advantages compared to the traditional routes including elimination of first pass metabolism and higher patient compliance. However, many drugs are topically and systemically ineffective when applied onto the skin, due to their almost complete failure to penetrate the skin. The main limitation lies in the stratum corneum, the barrier of the skin, which prevent the drug from reaching the deeper skin strata. 5-Fluorouracil is a polar hydrophilic drug and is therefore not a good penetrant through skin. A popular technique to increase transdermal permeation is to use a penetration enhancer, which reversibly reduce the permeability barrier of the stratum corneum. The primary aim of this study was to determine the effect of Brij 97 in the presence and absence of carrageenan on the transdermal delivery of 5-fluorouracil. The formulations were identified by means of confocal laser scanning microscopy and measurement of the particle size. The zeta-potential was measured to determine whether the formulations were stable and the pH was measured to determine if the internal structures of the formulations were affected by the drug. The drug released from the formulations was measured with a VanKel dissolution apparatus. In vitro transdermal diffusion studies were performed using vertical Franz diffusion cells with human epidermal skin. Histopathological studies were carried out on human epidermis skin to determine if the surfactant, Brij 97, had any effect on the skin. Through confocal laser scanning microscopy and particle size measurements, the 4 and 8% Brij 97 formulations without carrageenan could be identified as emulsions while the 15 and 25% Brij 97 formulations without carrageenan could be identified as microemulsions. The 4, 8, 15 and 25% Brij 97 formulations containing carrageenan could be identified as gels. The results obtained from the zeta-potential analysis indicated that the 4 and 8% Brij 97 formulations without carrageenan and 4% Brij 97 formulation with carrageenan are the most electronegative and thus the most stable. The pH measurements confirmed that the internal structure of the formulations was not influenced by the drug. 5-Fluorouracil was released from the formulations. The 4 and 8% Brij 97 formulations without carrageenan had an enhancing effect on the penetration of 5-fluorouracil while the 4, 8, 15 and 25% Brij 97 formulations with carrageenan and the 15 and 25% Brij 97 formulations without carrageenan had an hindering effect on the penetration of 5-fluorouracil. Although carrageenan led to good adhesiveness of the formulation on the skin, it did not lead to the enhancement of the penetration of 5-fluorouracil through the skin. When histopathological studies were carried out on female human abdominal skin, Brij 97, the surfactant, was found to have no damaging effect on the skin structure. / Thesis (M.Sc. (Pharmaceutics))--North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2006.

Charles University, Faculty of pharmacy in Hradec Králové Department of Organic and Bioorganic Chemistry Candidate: Linda Svatošová Supervisor: PharmDr. Lukáš Opálka, Ph.D. Title of diploma thesis: The study of model lipid membranes containing omega- hydroxylated ceramides Acylceramides (EO-Cer) belong to a class of ceramides (Cer) with an ultralong acyl chain whose ω-hydroxyl group is esterified with linoleic acid. The importance of EO-Cer lies in the formation of the long periodicity phase (LPP) and the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), which are indispensable components for the skin functioning as a barrier. Disorders in EO-Cer biosynthesis are associated with insufficient production of CLE and LPP leading to many skin diseases, including some types of ichthyosis. One of the enzymes that is deficient in such ichthyoses is PNPLA1. Insufficient function of this enzyme disables ω-esterification with linoleic acid, and thus the formation of EO-Cer. On the contrary, their precursors, i.e. ω-hydroxylated ceramides (O-Cer), are cumulated. The aim of this thesis was to prepare model membranes containing O-Cer and to study the effects of O-Cer on the lipid organization and barrier properties of model membranes. Within this thesis, two types of membranes were prepared - the first type were membranes...

Introduktion: Huden är människans största organ och dess funktion är att skydda kroppen mot uttorkning och främmande ämnen. Huden kan delas upp i flera lager: underhuden, läderhuden och överhuden. Överhuden utgörs av stratum corneum som huvudsakligen ansvarar för hudbarriärens egenskaper och som begränsar dess penetration.   Syfte: Syftet med studien är att studera vilken typ av formulering som kan förbättra penetrationen av vattenlösliga och svårpenetrerande ämnen som hyaluronsyra och azelainsyra genom hudbarriären.  Metod: En systematisk litteraturöversikt har gjorts genom att söka efter originalartiklar via databasen Web of Science med hjälp av inklusions- och exklusionskriterier.  Resultat: Penetrationstester av olika nanoformuleringar av hyaluronsyra och azelainsyra utfördes. Variationer i molekylvikt och partikelstorlek av hyaluronsyra, liksom mängden ytaktiva, ämnen gav olika penetreringsdjup i huden.  Diskussion: För att förbättra penetrationen av hyaluronsyra och azelainsyra genom stratum corneum bör aspekter såsom molekylvikt, partikel/droppstorlek, viskositet, koncentration liksom val av vehikel tas hänsyn till vid formulering.  Slutsats: Nanoemulsioner visade sig vara en optimal formulering för att förbättra penetrationen av hyaluronsyra och azelainsyra, tack vare minskning av partikelstorlek samt de lipofila egenskaperna i gemenskap med hudbarriären.

Yes / Melanin is the predominant pigment responsible for skin colour, and is synthesized by the melanocyte in the basal layer of the epidermis and then transferred to surrounding keratinocytes. Despite its optical properties, melanin is barely detectable in unstained sections of human skin. However, identification and localization of melanin is of importance for the study of skin pigmentation in health and disease. Current methods for the histologic quantification of melanin are suboptimal, and are associated with significant risk of misinterpretation. The aim of this study was to re-assess the existing literature, and to develop a more effective histological method of melanin quantification in human skin. Moreover, we confirm that Warthin-Starry (WS) stain provides a much more sensitive and more specific melanin detection method than the common-place Fontana-Masson (FM) stain. For example, WS staining sensitivity allowed the visualization of melanin even in very pale Caucasian skin that was missed by FM or Von Kossa (VK) stains. From our re-assessment of the histologyrelated literature we conclude that so-called ‘melanin dust’ is most likely an artefact of discoloration due to non-specific silver deposition in the stratum corneum. Unlike FM and VK, WS was not associated with this non-specific stratum corneum darkening, misinterpreted previously as ‘degraded’ or so-called ‘dust’ melanin. Finally, WS melanin particle counts were largely similar to manual counts by transmission electron microscopy, in contrast to both FM and VK. Together these findings allow us to propose a new histology/Image J-informed method for the accurate and precise quantification of epidermal melanin in skin.

La peau est l’organe le plus grand du corps humain et représente ~10% de la masse corporelle. La bonne qualité de son état et de ses fonctionnalités est primordiale pour la santé d’un individu. La sécheresse cutanée constitue un phénomène commun dans différents dysfonctionnements physiopathologiques. Grâce à ses propriétés de protection de l’organisme vis-à-vis de son environnement, le stratum corneum (SC) est considéré comme le principal élément contrôlant l’hydratation. Ce travail de thèse, associant des développements techniques et méthodologiques, a conduit à la mise en évidence par microspectroscopie Raman confocale, des mécanismes moléculaires impliqués dans les phénomènes de sécheresse cutanée. Le lien moléculaire entre hydratation et stress mécanique du SC ex vivo est décrit de manière approfondie impliquant lipides et protéines tissulaires. Ces travaux ont également porté sur la caractérisation des modifications supramoléculaires responsables des déformations du SC sous stress mécanique. En parallèle, ce travail illustre l’intérêt des spectroscopies vibrationnelles comme outil d’évaluation des mécanismes d’action des produits hydratants.Le caractère non-invasif de la spectroscopie Raman a permis d’exploiter les fortes potentialités de cette technique en transposant in vivo l’utilisation des descripteurs spectraux obtenus ex vivo. Ainsi, nous avons développé une approche in vivo couplant la spectroscopie Raman et la méthode des moindres carrés partiels (PLS) pour la quantification indirecte de différents paramètres physico-chimiques et fonctionnels du SC y compris les lipides et l’eau conduisant à une caractérisation globale du statut physiopathologique du SC. / The skin is the largest organ of the human body, accounting for ~10% of the body weight. The quality of its state and functionality is essential for the human health. Dry skin is a common phenomenon in various physiopathological dysfunctions. The uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum assumes the first barrier between organism and environment, it is thus considered as the main element controlling skin hydration. This work, combining technical and methodological developments, led to highlight the molecular mechanisms involved in skin dryness phenomena by confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The molecular link between hydration and mechanical stress of SC ex vivo is described in detail involving lipids and proteins. This work has also focused on the characterization of supramolecular changes related to the deformations of the SC under mechanical stress. In parallel, this work illustrates the effectiveness of vibrational spectroscopy for evaluation of moisturizers mechanisms of action. The non-invasive nature of Raman spectroscopy allowed exploiting the high potential of this technique by transposing spectral descriptors obtained ex vivo to in vivo. Thus, we developed an in vivo approach coupling Raman spectroscopy and partial least squares method (PLS) for indirect quantification of different physico-chemical and functional parameters including the SC lipids and water leading to an overall characterization of the SC physiopathological status.

La barrière épidermique du stratum corneum (SC) est doublée par une barrière secondaire des jonctions serrées (JS) qui influent sur la formation de barrière principale. Dans mes travaux, je me suis concentré sur l'étude de la présence et l'évolution des éléments jonctionnelles composants ces deux barrières ; les cornéodesmosomes au niveau du SC et les JSs au niveau de la granuleuse. En plus, je me suis intéressé à l'implication des glycanes dans la fonction barrière épidermique. Ces travaux ont été réalisés soit dans un contexte physiologique soit par la modulation de la barrière épidermique par des facteurs intrinsèques et extrinsèques. Nos résultats confirment que les JSs jouent un rôle subalterne par rapport à la barrière du SC et montrent que les glycanes persistent à la surface des cornéocytes humains. La composition et la répartition utlrastructurale des glycanes évoluent à travers les assises du SC jusqu'à la desquamation d'une manière concordante avec la répartition des cornéodesmosomes. Certaines modifications intrinsèques naturelles lors du vieillissement ou pathologiques notamment l'état pelliculaire et la dermatite atopique, ont permis d'appréhender le rôle de ces composants dans la cohésion du SC et la prestance d'une barrière fonctionnelle. Les modifications extrinsèques de la barrière par l'application de solvants, d'excipients ou de formulations perméabilisantes montrent l'importance de l'organisation utlrastructurale des composants jonctionnelles et non jonctionnelles du SC dans le maintien d'une barrière efficace / The stratum corneum (SC) barrier is doubled by the secondary barrier of tight junctions which influences the formation of the main barrier. In my work, I focused on the study of the junctional elements composing those two barriers; corneodesmosomes in the SC and the tight junction at the granular layer level. In addition, I got interested in the involvement of glycans in the epidermal barrier function. This work was carried out either in skin physiological conditions or by the modulation of the epidermal barrier by intrinsic or extrinsic factors. Our results confirm that tight junctions play a subordinate role compared to the SC barrier and that glycans remain present at the surface of human corneocytes. The composition and the ultrastructure distribution of glycans evolve from the SC compactum to the SC disjunctum, towards desquamation in a comparable manner to the repartition of corneodesmosomes. Natural intrinsic changes during aging and pathological changes, including dandruff and atopic dermatitis, helped us to understand the role of those components in the cohesion of the SC and the conservation of functional barrier. Extrinsic modulation of the barrier by the application of solvents, excipients or topical formulations shows the importance of the ultrastructural organization of junctional and non-junctional SC components in maintaining an effective barrier

Crèmes, shampooings, savons, gels douche, ces produits cosmétiques quotidiennement utilisés, ont en commun la présence d'une matière première essentielle à leur formulation, à savoir le tensioactif ou émulsionnant. Ces molécules sont donc fréquemment en contact avec la peau. En effet, de par sa structure amphiphile particulière, le tensioactif aide à la stabilisation des émulsions, permet la formation de mousse et apporte les propriétés détergentes des produits cosmétiques nettoyants, en solubilisant les corps gras présents en surface. Ces molécules peuvent également interagir avec les composants de la peau. Une des premières preuves évidentes de l'interaction des tensioactifs avec la peau est l'observation des signes cliniques suite à l'exposition prolongée ou chronique à des formules riches en tensioactifs. Ces molécules sont maintenant connues pour engendrer des dermatites de contact d'irritation et font l'objet d'un véritable problème de santé publique concernant les maladies professionnelles aux détergents. Cependant, devant la multitude de tensioactifs présents sur le marché, les mécanismes d'action des tensioactifs sur la peau sont encore mal connus, surtout pour les tensioactifs non ioniques, très utilisés dans les produits de soin et souvent considérés comme non toxiques. Le sodium lauryl sulfate, tensioactif anionique reste à ce jour, la molécule modèle couramment étudiée. La toxicité cutanée est le plus souvent reliée à l'interaction du tensioactif avec les protéines, molécules chargées. De ce fait, les tensioactifs ioniques sont considérés comme étant les plus toxiques pour la peau. De plus, la forme monomérique du tensioactif est décrite comme l'entité responsable de la toxicité cutanée, s'insérant plus facilement dans la bicouche lipidique et pouvant ainsi pénétrer plus facilement dans la peau que sous la forme de micelles. La toxicité du tensioactif est donc également reliée à sa concentration micellaire critique. L'objectif de ce projet de recherche était d'approfondir les connaissances sur différentes propriétés physicochimiques de nombreuses classes de tensioactifs, afin de mieux comprendre leurs interactions ainsi que leurs effets sur la peau. Plusieurs niveaux d'études ont été développés. Après une analyse physicochimique des tensioactifs détaillée, des mesures in vitro ont permis d'évaluer l'effet du tensioactif sur la toxicité cutanée. L'étude portant sur la fonction barrière de la peau (propriétés de surface/détergence, organisation de la matrice lipidique et évaluation de l'extraction lipidique) a été menée via des expérimentations ex vivo. Nos études ont montré une toxicité notable de certains tensioactifs non ioniques et a contrario certains tensioactifs ioniques se sont révélés parfaitement bien tolérés. Les paramètres soulignés dans la littérature tels que la CMC et la charge des tensioactifs ont été remis en question. Plusieurs explications ont été mises en avant considérant l'organisation du tensioactif dans l'eau et son comportement vis-a-vis de la fonction barrière cutanée apportant ainsi de nouvelles pistes pour une meilleure compréhension de l'effet du tensioactif sur la peau. De plus La toxicité des tensioactifs a pu être reliée à un des trois niveaux de perturbation de la barrière cutanée: la désorganisation de la matrice lipidique / Creams, shampoos, soaps, shower gels, these cosmetics daily used, have in common the presence of a raw material essential to their formulation, namely the surfactant or emulsifier. These molecules are therefore frequently in contact with the skin. Indeed, because of its particular amphiphilic structure, the surfactant helps the stabilization of emulsions, allows the formation of foam and provides the detergent properties of cleansing cosmetic products, by solubilizing the fatty substances present on the surface. These molecules can also interact with the components of the skin. One of the first obvious evidence of the interaction of surfactants with the skin is the observation of clinical signs following prolonged or chronic exposure to surfactant-rich formulas. These molecules are now known to cause irritant contact dermatitis and are the subject of a real public health problem regarding professional detergent diseases. However, considering the multitude of surfactants on the market, the mechanisms of action of surfactants on the skin are still poorly known, especially for nonionic surfactants, widely used in skincare products and often considered non-toxic. Sodium lauryl sulfate, anionic surfactant remains to this day, the model molecule currently studied. The cutaneous toxicity is most often related to the interaction of the surfactant with the proteins, charged molecules. As a result, ionic surfactants are considered to be the most toxic to the skin. In addition, the monomeric form of the surfactant is described as the entity responsible for cutaneous toxicity, fitting more easily into the lipid bilayer and thus able to penetrate the skin more easily than in the form of micelles. The toxicity of the surfactant is therefore also related to its critical micelle concentration. . The objective of this research project was to expand knowledge on different physicochemical properties of many classes of surfactants, to better understand their interactions and their effects on the skin. Several levels of studies have been developed. After detailed physicochemical analysis of the surfactants, in vitro measurements were used to evaluate the effect of the surfactant on skin toxicity. The study on the skin barrier function (surface properties / detergency, lipid matrix organization and evaluation of lipid extraction) was conducted via ex vivo experiments. Our studies have shown significant toxicity of some nonionic surfactants and conversely some ionic surfactants have been found to be perfectly well tolerated. Parameters highlighted in the literature such as CMC and surfactant charges have been questioned. Several explanations were put forward considering the organization of the surfactant in the water and its behavior on the skin barrier function thus bringing new tracks for a better understanding of the effect of the surfactant on the skin. In addition, the toxicity of the surfactants could be related to one of the three levels of disruption of the cutaneous barrier: the disorganization of the lipid matrix

Charles University, Faculty of Pharmacy in Hradec Králové Department of Pharmaceutical Technology Author: Karolína Růžičková Supervisor: PharmDr. Barbora Švecová, Ph.D. Consultant: Mgr. Anna Nováčková Title of thesis: Evaluation of preparation of monolayer lipid skin barrier models Skin, the protective barrier of human body, consists of several layers. The uppermost one is the stratum corneum, part of epidermis, whose extracellular matrix is composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. The composition and arrangement of skin lipids are essential for the proper skin barrier function. Various multilayer and monolayer models are used to study skin lipids at the molecular level. Some of the evaluation methods are Langmuir monolayers at the air interface. In this work I dealt with the behavior of monolayer lipid models at four different pH values of the liquid subphase. Lipids isolated from human skin, lipid mixture prepared from the individual components, and a mixture of fatty acids were compared as well. Langmuir isotherms and the Brewster angle microscopy at different compression rates were used for this purpose. The results showed that pH of the subphase has no major effect on lipids arrangement. Lipids were most likely to form a tight monolayer at neutral pH 7,0, at a...

Charles University, Faculty of Pharmacy in Hradec Králové Department of Department of Pharmaceutical Technology Candidate Mgr. Anna Nováčková Supervisor doc. Mgr. Jarmila Zbytovská, Dr. rer. nat. Title of Doctoral Thesis Study of substances affecting permeability of the skin barrier The skin barrier plays a vital role in protecting the human body and enables mammals' life on dry land. The epidermis has the primary barrier function due to several cells' layers, which gradually differentiate to their final stage, the stratum corneum (SC). SC is formed by stratified keratinocytes (known as corneocytes) surrounded by a lipid matrix. This intercellular matrix consists of an approximately equimolar ratio of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. These are particular substances formed in the epidermis from their precursors during the keratinocyte's differentiation, and their arrangement into the multilamellar structure is essential for the impermeability of the skin barrier. However, some substances or factors can disrupt the skin barrier. It is usually an undesirable process of lipid disbalance resulting in disorders or diseases of the skin barrier. On the other hand, specific substances have been developed for a reversible disruption of the skin barrier (so-called enhancers) to allow drug...

This studyh focuses on thermal comfort and cost effectiveness of stratum ventilation in subtropical Hong Kong Special Adminstation Region (HKSAR). The need for studying thermal comfort with various air distribution strategies becomes a significant issue recently due to climate change, increasing energy prices and the governmental energy efficiency policy. Stratum ventilation, with air supplied at breathing level, can probably provide satisfactory thermal comfort at a relatively elevated indoor temperature in which less energy use is consumed. It seems that only limited studies on the evaluation of neutral temperature, which is a condition of neither slightly warm nor slightly cool, are supported by actual human comfort surveys. Moreover, study on the related thermal comfort and cost effectiveness as other paradigms in comparison with the mixing and displacement air distribution design is rare. New environmental chamber of laboratory-based air-conditioning systems has been developed for investigating the actual benefit of cost effectiveness and balance of thermal comfort satisfaction with the stratum air distribution strategy under subtropical climates. American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) 7-point questionnaires have been collected from human comfort tests so as to estimate the neutral temperature of stratum ventilation in comparison with mixing and displacement ventilation at pre-set conditions. The neutral temperatures of HKSAR people under the mode of mixing, displacement, stratum, modified-stratum-1, modified-stratum-2, and modified-stratum-3 are found to be 24.6℃, 25.1℃, 25.6℃, 26.0℃, 27.1℃ and 27.3℃ at 10 air change per hour (ACH) respectively, which become 24.8℃, 25.3℃, 26.6℃, 27.4℃, and 27.9℃ at 15 ACH respectively. Life cycle assessment results in 10 service year indicate that 7.73% and 7.32% of cost reduction, and 14.52% and 11.91% of greenhouse gas emission reduction in stratum ventilation by comparing with mixing and displacement ventilation. As a result, stratum ventilation should be the best option on both of cost reduction, and less carbon emission in small-to-medium size air-conditioned space for new building and retrofitting existing works.