Undergraduate honors paper--Mount Holyoke College, 2007. Dept. of Art. / Includes bibliographical references (leaf 12).

Call number: LD2668 .T4 1955 F73 / Master of Science

The purpose of this research was to evaluate and compare the performance, aesthetic and material properties of women’s t-shirts composed of three different sustainable fibers (lyocell, organic cotton, and viscose from bamboo) before and after repeated home laundering. A convenience sample was comprised of thirty-nine t-shirts. Thirteen black t-shirts from each fiber content were used for testing according to ASTM and AATCC standards. The evaluations and measurements were performed initially and after wash intervals one, five, ten, and twenty. The t-shirts were tested for fabric weight, fabric count, color fastness, smoothness appearance, pilling, dimensional stability and skewness.

Submitted by Edson Renato Nardi (filosofia.ead@claretiano.edu.br) on 2016-11-04T17:12:48Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Tese Edson Renato Nardi.pdf: 1471048 bytes, checksum: f9b394d87adab528f14a79056a41c2b4 (MD5) / Rejected by Felipe Augusto Arakaki (arakaki@reitoria.unesp.br), reason: Solicitamos que realize uma nova submissão seguindo as orientações abaixo: No campo “Versão a ser disponibilizada online imediatamente” foi informado que seria disponibilizado o texto completo porém no campo “Data para a disponibilização do texto completo” foi informado que o texto completo deverá ser disponibilizado apenas 6 meses após a defesa. Caso opte pela disponibilização do texto completo apenas 6 meses após a defesa selecione no campo “Versão a ser disponibilizada online imediatamente” a opção “Texto parcial”. Esta opção é utilizada caso você tenha planos de publicar seu trabalho em periódicos científicos ou em formato de livro, por exemplo e fará com que apenas as páginas pré-textuais, introdução, considerações e referências sejam disponibilizadas. Se optar por disponibilizar o texto completo de seu trabalho imediatamente selecione no campo “Data para a disponibilização do texto completo” a opção “Não se aplica (texto completo)”. Isso fará com que seu trabalho seja disponibilizado na íntegra no Repositório Institucional UNESP. Por favor, corrija esta informação realizando uma nova submissão. Agradecemos a compreensão. on 2016-11-08T18:16:31Z (GMT) / Submitted by Edson Renato Nardi (filosofia.ead@claretiano.edu.br) on 2016-11-09T11:40:26Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Tese Edson Renato Nardi.pdf: 1471048 bytes, checksum: f9b394d87adab528f14a79056a41c2b4 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Juliano Benedito Ferreira (julianoferreira@reitoria.unesp.br) on 2016-11-09T13:36:10Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 nardi_er_dr_araflcl.pdf: 1471048 bytes, checksum: f9b394d87adab528f14a79056a41c2b4 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-11-09T13:36:10Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 nardi_er_dr_araflcl.pdf: 1471048 bytes, checksum: f9b394d87adab528f14a79056a41c2b4 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-07-27 / Essa tese buscou investigar a eventual presença de rituais de passagem em uma escola pública do interior de São Paulo e, mais especificamente, no processo de construção e produção das vestimentas intituladas: camisetas de formatura. Para tanto, foi utilizado como fundamento epistemológico, as considerações e investigações sobre rituais de passagem emitidas pelos antropólogos Arnold Van Gennep e Victor Turner. O método utilizado foi eminentemente qualitativo e que se concretizou pela aplicação das técnicas de observação participante e pela aplicação de entrevistas semi-estruturadas. Da coleta e análise dos dados obtidos, concluiu-se que existem elementos envolvidos no processo de produção e construção dessas camisetas que nos autorizam a categorizá-los como liminares e que, nesse contexto, acontecem episódios esporádicos de communitas. No entanto, para que esses episódios ocorram, constatou-se que há a necessidade de uma conjuntura grupal, que crie condições favoráveis para seu surgimento. / This thesis aimed to investigate the possible presence of rites of passage in a public school in the State of São Paulo and, more specifically, in the construction and production process of entitled garments: t-shirts graduation. Thus, it was used as an epistemological foundation, considerations and investigations of passage rituals issued by anthropologists Arnold Van Gennep and Victor Turner. The method used was eminently qualitative and that was achieved by applying participant observation techniques and the application of semi-structured interviews. The collection and analysis of data, it was concluded that there are elements involved in the production process and construction of these shirts that allow us to categorize them as liminality and that in this context happen sporadic communitas. However, for these episodes occur, it was found that there is a need for a group situation, to create favorable conditions for these episodes effectively occur..

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the quality of design, materials, construction, appearance, and performance of mens 100% cotton jersey knit t-shirts from three retail categories: mass merchant, fast fashion, and better. These retail categories were represented by brands Fruit of the Loom, H&M, and Brooks Brothers, respectively. A convenience sample was comprised of 78 t-shirts. 13 white and 13 navy t-shirts from each brand were used for testing according to ASTM and AATCC standards and specifications. Evaluations and measurements were conducted before washing, and after one, five, ten, and twenty laundry cycles. The t-shirts were evaluated for fabric weight, fabric count, color change, whiteness change, crocking, smoothness appearance, bursting strength, pilling, dimensional stability, and skewness. The navy t-shirts in the ‘better’ retail category met five out of the six requirements specified by the ASTM standard. However, the navy t-shirts in the ‘fast fashion’ category met four out of five met by the ‘better’ category. In conclusion, the decision to purchase a t-shirt from these retail categories may depend on consumer expectations.

Chan, Chun Hung. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2008. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 77-84). / Abstracts in Chinese and English. / Acknowledgment: --- p.i / 摘要 --- p.ii / Abstract --- p.iv / List of Figure --- p.vi / List of Table --- p.viii / Content Page --- p.ix / Chapter Chapter 1 --- Introduction --- p.1 / Chapter 1.1 --- The Difficulties --- p.1 / Chapter 1.2 --- The Solution --- p.2 / Chapter 1.3 --- Goal of the Present Work --- p.2 / Chapter Chapter 2 --- Background and Methodology --- p.3 / Chapter 2.1 --- Hypertension Situation and Problems Around the World --- p.3 / Chapter 2.1.1 --- Blood Pressure Variability (BPV) --- p.4 / Chapter 2.2 --- Blood Pressure Measuring Methods --- p.5 / Chapter 2.2.1 --- Traditional Blood Pressure Meters --- p.6 / Chapter 2.2.2 --- Limitation of Commercial Blood Pressure Meters --- p.7 / Chapter 2.2.3 --- Pulse-Transit-Time (PTT) Based Blood Pressure Measuring Watch --- p.7 / Chapter 2.3 --- Wearable Body Sensors Network / System --- p.8 / Chapter 2.4 --- Current Status of e-Textile Garment --- p.9 / Chapter 2.4.1 --- Blood Pressure Measurement in e-Textile Garment --- p.13 / Chapter 2.5 --- Wearable Intelligent Sensors and System for e-Health (WISSH) --- p.15 / Chapter 2.5.1 --- "Monitoring, Connection and Display" --- p.15 / Chapter 2.5.2 --- Treatment --- p.16 / Chapter 2.5.3 --- Alarming --- p.17 / Chapter Chapter 3 --- "A h-Shirt to Non-invasive, Continuous Monitoring of Arterial Blood Pressure" --- p.18 / Chapter 3.1 --- Design and Inner Structure of h-Shirt --- p.18 / Chapter 3.1.1 --- Choose of e-Textile Material --- p.21 / Chapter 3.1.2 --- Design of ECG Circuit --- p.23 / Chapter 3.1.3 --- Design of PPG Circuit --- p.26 / Chapter 3.2 --- Blood Pressure Estimation Using Pulse-Transit-Time Algorithm --- p.28 / Chapter 3.2.1 --- Principal --- p.28 / Chapter 3.2.2 --- Equations --- p.29 / Chapter 3.2.3 --- Calibration --- p.29 / Chapter 3.3 --- Performance Tests on h-Shirt --- p.30 / Chapter 3.3.1 --- Test I: BP Measurement Accuracy --- p.30 / Chapter 3.3.2 --- Test I: Procedure and Protocol --- p.30 / Chapter 3.3.3 --- Test I-Results --- p.31 / Chapter 3.3.4 --- Test II: Continuality BP Estimation Performance --- p.31 / Chapter 3.3.5 --- Test II - Experiment Procedure and Protocol --- p.32 / Chapter 3.3.6 --- Test II - Experiment Result --- p.33 / Chapter 3.3.7 --- Test II 一 Discussion --- p.43 / Chapter 3.4 --- Follow-up Tests on ECG Circuit --- p.47 / Chapter 3.4.1 --- Problems --- p.47 / Chapter 3.4.2 --- Assumptions --- p.48 / Chapter 3.4.3 --- Experiment Protocol and Setup --- p.48 / Chapter 3.4.4 --- Experiment Results --- p.53 / Chapter 3.4.5 --- Discussion --- p.56 / Chapter Chapter 4: --- Hybrid Body Sensor Network in h-Shirt --- p.59 / Chapter 4.1 --- A Hybrid Body Sensor Network --- p.59 / Chapter 4.2 --- Biological Channel Used in h-Shirt --- p.60 / Chapter 4.3 --- Tests of Bio-channel Performance --- p.62 / Chapter 4.3.1 --- Experiment Protocol --- p.62 / Chapter 4.3.2 --- Results --- p.62 / Chapter 4.4 --- Discussion and Conclusion --- p.63 / Chapter Chapter 5: --- Conclusion and Suggestions for Future Works --- p.66 / Chapter 5.1 --- Conclusion --- p.66 / Chapter 5.1.1 --- Structure of h-Shirt --- p.66 / Chapter 5.1.2 --- Blood Pressure Estimating Ability of h-Shirt --- p.67 / Chapter 5.1.3 --- Tests and Amendments on h-Shirt ECG Circuit --- p.67 / Chapter 5.1.4 --- Hybrid Body Sensor Network in h-Shirt --- p.67 / Chapter 5.2 --- Suggestions for Future Work --- p.68 / Chapter 5.2.1 --- Further Development of Bio-channel Biological Model --- p.68 / Chapter 5.2.2 --- Positioning and Motion Sensing with h-Shirt --- p.69 / Chapter 5.2.3 --- Implementation of Updated Advance Technology into h-Shirt --- p.69 / Appendix: Non-invasive BP Measuring Device - Finometer --- p.71 / Reference: --- p.77

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:15:12Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Jorge Godoy de Oliveira.pdf: 16800648 bytes, checksum: f0a44c392337b42e3c5efe0ca1d2631a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-06-30 / Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico / Printed T-shirt is analyzed in this research as main garment of the subject s clothing composition. Among many brands in fashion market, the US online shop of printed Tshirts Threadless distinguishes itself by its online community, which promotes participation of graphic artists, communication field professionals and general users in several stages of its printed T-shirts production. This process starts by creation of new designs which are submitted to community s polls, goes on by election of designs that most identify with it and results in production and shopping availability of most voted designs. Approved artists are rewarded financially and symbolically by community. Approved designs carry most often pop and popular cultural themes. In Brazil, the online shop of printed T-shirts Chico Rei bets on an own creation team that also products printed T-shirts with the already shown themes, plus it invests on its Country s regional culture as differential mark of its creations. The research corpus is composed by these two shops and analyzed by the period of twelve months. This research s main objective is to inspect how a printed T-shirt becomes a garment that constitutes identities of personal/individual and/or of belonging groups, and how online interactions turned available by both shops intensify their relations with the user. It was verified that signification and meaning construction of a T-shirt design, whether elected by interaction of a potential user inside a community (Threadless) or by a set curatorship with sanction power (Chico Rei) potencialize this T-shirt to act as an actant in interaction with another actant (the one that wears it). There is then a subjectal interaction that unleashes a to feel both concerning the self as concerning the other, able to make the subject to rearrange himself to his everyday life, to put himself in the world with a visuality that holds identity possibilities of belonging to a group, of social prestige and of discoveries of the very subject. The theoretical framework used is discursive semiotics developed by A. J. Greimas and expanded on its narrative and discursive unfoldings by Eric Landowski, and on its plastic and sensible unfoldings by J.-M. Floch and A. C. de Oliveira. Through analysis regarding interaction regimes of the brands in their online shops and of their digital communication it was possible to realize how interaction inside a community builds and supports shared tastes among its members / A camiseta estampada é analisada nesta pesquisa como peça principal da composição vestimentária do sujeito. Entre tantas marcas no mercado da moda, a loja online de camisetas estampadas estadunidense Threadless se destaca por sua comunidade online que estimula a participação de artistas gráficos, profissionais da área da comunicação e usuários em geral em diversas etapas na produção de suas camisetas estampadas. Este processo se inicia pela criação de novas estampas que são submetidas à votação da comunidade, passa pela eleição das estampas que mais se identificam com ela e resulta na produção das estampas mais votadas e sua disponibilização para compra. Os artistas aprovados são premiados financeira e simbolicamente pela comunidade. As estampas aprovadas trazem na maioria dos casos a temática da cultura pop e da cultura popular. No Brasil, a loja online de camisetas estampadas Chico Rei aposta em uma equipe própria de criação que também produz estampas com as temáticas já apresentadas, e investe ainda na cultura regional de seu país como diferencial de suas criações. O corpus é composto por essas duas lojas e analisado pelo período de doze meses. O objetivo principal da pesquisa é investigar como uma camiseta estampada se torna peça vestimentária constitutiva de identidade pessoal/individual e/ou de grupos de pertencimento, e como as interações online disponibilizadas por ambas as marcas intensificam suas relações com o usuário. Constatou-se que a significação e construção de sentido de uma camiseta estampada elegida pela interação de seu potencial usuário em uma comunidade (Threadless) ou por uma curadoria sancionadora estabelecida (Chico Rei) potencializam esta camiseta a atuar como um actante em interação com o outro actante (o que a veste). Tem-se então uma interação subjetal que desencadeia um sentir tanto em relação a si mesmo como em relação ao outro, capaz de fazer o sujeito rearranjar-se para o seu dia a dia, pôr-se no mundo com uma visualidade que guarda possibilidades identitárias, de pertencimento a um grupo, de prestígio social e de descobertas do próprio sujeito. O arcabouço teórico utilizado é da semiótica discursiva desenvolvida por A. J. Greimas e expandida em seus desdobramentos narrativo e discursivo por Eric Landowski e plásticos e sensíveis por J.-M. Floch e A. C. de Oliveira. Pelas análises dos regimes de interação das marcas em suas lojas online e de sua comunicação digital foi possível perceber como a interação em uma comunidade constrói e sustenta gostos compartilhados entre seus membros