Background As of today the textile and fashion industry mainly relies on a linear production model, also referred to as the take-make-waste system. This economy depends solely on the single use of raw materials leaving space for an open-ended production and no intention of salvaging or recovering resources. Such a system cannot be supported by the environment in the future; therefore, several stakeholders are starting to embrace circular production systems and a closed-loop economy. One example of these efforts is take-back schemes (TBS) which strive to make the fashion industry more regenerative and restorative by narrowing, slowing, and closing the resource loops. Nonetheless, practitioners and academia have found adversities during the implementation stage which instead require competent knowledge, skills, and unique capabilities to achieve a successful performance. Purpose To achieve a successful implementation of a TBS, companies require unique capabilities that allow them to adapt and adopt a sustainable innovation. Therefore, this study investigates the dynamic capabilities (DCs) needed to implement a TBS in order to provide practitioners and academia with a guide that eases the application, overcomes the known adversities as well as explores the relationship between these and the relevant DCs. Methodology The research was based on a multiple case study method embracing abductive reasoning by extending the theory of DCs for circular business model implementation to TBS within the fashion industry. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with three companies applying different types of take-back schemes; the primary data was strengthened by document research and a validation round of interviews. The data was analyzed through qualitative thematic content analysis. Further, the characteristics of the study lend themselves well to be represented through a qualitative causal loop diagram appropriate for developing novel solution strategies such as the DCs. Findings The results show, through the use of two maps, that several DCs have to be developed when implementing a TBS in order to reach a substantial competitive advantage in the form of a cost leadership, differentiation or focus strategy. Further, the causal loop maps also shed light on the different relationships between DCs and how these can be exploited to overcome the difficulties or utilizing the possibilities in implementing a TBS. Practical implications and research limitations - The thesis creates new insights on TBS implementation through the use of DCs by presenting two causal loop maps. Thus, aiding practitioners and allowing them to quickly recognize their current situation against the maps as well as what changes need to be made following the suggested capabilities. The study is limited by the choice of interviewed companies, which represent only retailers with TBS in Sweden.

Background - In the attempt to affect environmental impacts and increase circularity in the fashion industry, several new business models are emerging. Take-back scheme is one strategy that is implemented as a part of the second-hand business model by fashion retailers, where reuse is the central goal. This advantageous approach is the most preferable method in the disposal hierarchy. Children's clothing provides a suitable product group for reuse and resale as it is often rapidly outgrown rather than worn out. Nevertheless, supply availability and quality challenges remain for a take-back scheme to operate successfully. Purpose - Take-back schemes rely on consumers to return used garments to supply the new sales of second-hand clothing. This study explores the acquisition and supply availability of used children's clothing for fashion retailer take-back schemes for second-hand. Acknowledging that the consumer becomes a supplier in reuse supply chains, this study aims to explore factors that affect the supply acquisition of used children's clothing. Methodology - This research employed a single case study design with an inductive mixed- method approach. A pre-study collected data from three sources and these findings were used as a base for developing a self-administered online questionnaire. The questionnaire was administered to consumers who can potentially adopt the role of used children’s clothing suppliers in a take-back scheme. A total of 964 responses served as empirical data, analysed through descriptive statistics and coding. Findings - Six factors affecting the acquisition and supply availability of used children's clothing in take-back schemes were identified. These are customer relationships, convenience, compensation, assessment description, product condition and size range differences. The factors were recognized to affect the interest and ability of potential suppliers to engage in take- back schemes and the available supply that can be acquired for reuse in a take-back scheme. Research implications - This study delivers new insights into the scant and unexplored acquisition area in take-back schemes of used children's clothing. A conceptual model comprising the six identified factors is presented, which can guide and aid practitioners in implementing or evaluating take-back schemes of used children's clothing. The study is limited to the Swedish fashion industry and take-back schemes explicitly focused on the collection of used clothing to resell.

The changing climate is a major driver for transitioning towards a Circular Economy (CE). However, conceptual discussions and business models related to CE are still emerging, thus considered to be inadequate and immature. One way to promote and accelerate a CE is through shifting towards Circular procurement (CP). Additionally, one major change needed for procurement in order to become circular, regards the assurance of follow-up and control of products and materials. However, there is limited research on CP in terms of collaboration and follow-up activities. Thus, this study explores how collaboration between an organization, its suppliers and customers can be strategically handled to support follow-up and control of products and materials within CP.  The chosen methodology consisted of a qualitative research design with an exploratory approach. A total of eleven semi-structured interviews were conducted. Derived from the theoretical findings coupled with empirical findings, a framework was developed to clearly map out the challenges related to CP, activities needed in procurement when transitioning to a CP as well as the potential outcomes of these. To ensure the relevance of the activities included in the developed framework, three out of the total eleven interviews were conducted with experts within the circular field, to validate the framework. In terms of the findings of this research, several important aspects related to how collaboration can promote integration of circularity within procurement to ensure follow-up and control of products and material were found. Firstly, a new type of internal collaboration between sales and the procurement department is needed. Besides this, the procurement function should focus on maintaining a long-term relationship with the suppliers, preferably already contracted ones. Further, due to the lack of knowledge related to the concept of CP, it was found that there is a need to integrate a preparation phase called phase 0 prior to the traditional steps of a procurement process. Finally, it was found that the integration of feedback and monitoring mechanisms, in form of documentation and checklists, is of importance to monitor and evaluate circular targets as well as document the lessons learnt to apply these in upcoming procurement processes. / Det förändrade klimatet är en viktig drivkraft för övergången till en Cirkulär Ekonomi (CE). Konceptuella diskussioner och affärsmodeller relaterade till CE håller fortfarande på att växa fram, och anses därför vara otillräckliga och omogna. Ett sätt att främja och påskynda en CE, är att växla mot cirkulära inköp (CI). En stor förändring som krävs för att inköpsfunktionen ska bli cirkulär, är att säkerställa uppföljning och kontroll av produkter och material. Dock finns det begränsad forskning om CI vad gäller samverkan och uppföljningsaktiviteter. Således undersöker denna studie hur samverkan mellan en organisation, dess leverantörer och kunder kan hanteras strategiskt för att säkerställa uppföljning och kontroll av produkter och material inom CI. Den valda metodiken bestod av en kvalitativ studie med ett utforskande förhållningssätt. Totalt genomfördes elva semi-strukturerade intervjuer. Med utgångspunkt från litteraturgenomgången tillsammans med analysen från insamlade data utvecklades ett ramverk för att tydliggöra utmaningar relaterade till CI, aktiviteter som behövs inom inköpsprocessen vid integration av cirkularitet, samt det potentiella resultatet och påverkan av dessa. För att säkerställa relevansen av aktiviteterna ingående i det utvecklade ramverket, genomfördes tre av de elva intervjuerna med experter som innehar kunskap kring cirkularitet. Syftet med dessa tre intervjuer var huvudsakligen för experterna att validera ramverket. När det gäller resultaten av denna studie hittades flera viktiga aspekter relaterade till hur samverkan kan främja integration av cirkularitet inom inköpsprocessen för att säkerställa uppföljning och kontroll av produkter och material. För det första upptäcktes behovet av en ny intern samverkan mellan sälj och inköpsfunktionen. Utöver ökad kommunikation och samverkan mellan sälj och inköpsfunktionen, bör inköpsfunktionen fokusera på att upprätthålla en långsiktig relation med leverantörer. Vidare, på grund av bristen på kunskap relaterad till begreppet CI, fann man att det finns ett behov av att integrera en förberedelsefas som i denna studie kallas fas 0, före de traditionella stegen i en inköpsprocess. Slutligen fann man att det är viktigt att integrera återkopplings- och uppföljningsmekanismer i form av dokumentation och checklistor, för att kunna övervaka och utvärdera cirkulära mål samt dokumentera lärdomarna för att tillämpa dessa i kommande inköpsprocesser.