This thesis addresses needlework between 1920 and 1970 as a window into women's broader experiences, and also asserts it as a valid topic of historical analysis in its own right. Needlecraft was a ubiquitous part of women's lives which has until recently been largely neglected by historians. The growing historiography of needlework has relied heavily on fashion and design history perspectives, focusing on the products of needlework and examples of creative needlewomen. Moving beyond this model, this thesis establishes the importance of process as well as product in studying needlework, revealing the meanings women found in, attached to, and created through the ephemeral moment of making. Searching for the ordinary and typical, it eschews previous preoccupations with creation, affirming re-creation and recreation as more central to amateur needlework. Drawing upon diverse sources including oral history research, objects, Mass Observation archives, and specialist needlework magazines, this thesis examines five key aspects of women's engagement with needlework: definitions of ‘leisure' and ‘work'; motivations of thrift in peacetime and war; emotions; the modern and the traditional and finally, the gendering of needlework. It explores needlework through three central themes of identity, obligation and pleasure. Whilst asserting the validity and importance of needlework as a subject of research in its own right, it also contributes to larger debates within women's history. It sheds light on the chronology and significance of domestic thrift, the meanings of feminised activities, the emotional context of home front life, women's engagement with modern design and concepts of ‘leisure' and ‘work' within women's history.

Hållbarhet är idag ett välanvänt begrepp som förekommer inom flera områden. Vad hållbarhet anses vara må uppfattas som självklart, men hur begreppet och diskursen konstrueras, är inte lika självklart. Genom att se till två aktörer, med olika ambitioner, inom andrahandsmarknaden undersöker studien hur reklam bidrar till konstruerandet av uppfattandet av hållbarhet på olika sätt. Tidigare forskning visar att medierna formar och speglar samhället och att uttryck av hållbarhet idag används som täckmantel i form av grön retorik. Den visar även att kapitalism och ekologi har naturliga motsättningar, att vi måste konsumera mindre och lära oss se ”skräp” som resurser, något som andrahandsmarknaden kämpar med att förhålla sig till. Vi undersöker i denna studie Tradera och Myrornas förmedlade budskap av hållbarhet, med bakgrund i aktörernas intressen som vinstdrivet och ideellt. Syftet är att se hur reklam inom andrahandsmarknaden bidrar till konstruerandet av hållbarhetsdiskursen. Detta genom en multimodal kritisk diskursanalys av reklamfilmer från respektive aktör.   Resultatet visar att de olika aktörernas förmedlade budskap bidrar till hållbarhetsdiskursen på både traditionella och kreativa sätt. Traderas reklamfilm visade sig uttrycka underliggande budskap av ekologi som dessvärre hamnar i skuggan av kapitalistiska och materialistiska värderingar. Myrornas reklamfilm utmanar på många olika sätt dessa traditionellt kapitalistiska och materialistiska värderingar. Dessa olika uttryck av hållbarhet utgör till viss del konstruerandet av hållbarhetsdiskursen. Det visar även att särskilda budskap kan verka ideologiskt gynnsamma och att detta är något som aktörer utnyttjar. Vi drar slutsatsen att hållbarhetsdiskursen innefattar svårtolkade budskap som samexisterar och problematiserar vår relation till ett hållbart agerande. / Modern use of the term ‘sustainability’ is broad and varies across multiple industries. The general idea of sustainability is perceived as certain, yet sustainability discourse and the pillars of the term remain fluid. By looking at two stakeholders, with different ambitions, within the second hand market, the study is examining how advertising contributes to the different ways sustainability perceptions are constructed. Previous studies show that media both shapes and reflects our society, highlighting today’s use of the term sustainability is often to “green wash” communication. Studies also shows that capitalism and ecology have natural contradictions. Second hand markets face the challenge of raising awareness to change perceptions for society's to consumer less and begin to see “waste” as a resource. In this study we examine the message of sustainability, mediated by Tradera and Myrorna, in relation to their role as profit-driven, versus not for profit organisations. The purpose of the study is to examine how advertisement within the secondhand market, contributes to the construction of sustainability discourse. This is carried out through a multimodal critical discourse analysis of commercials. The results show that the different stakeholders' messages contribute to the sustainability discourse in both traditional and creative ways. Tradera’s advertisement expressed underlying statements of ecology, shadowed by capitalistic and materialistic values. However, Myrorna’s advertisement in many ways challenges these traditional capitalistic and materialistic values. To some extent these different expressions construct the discourse of sustainability. This further highlights that ideologically specific messages could work, however this is often exploited by businesses. The conclusion drawn from this study displays that the sustainability discourse involves messages difficult to interpret, which infers parallels to the convoluted relationship of society’s aim to advance sustainable development.

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The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and its membership felt a substantial impact from the effects of World War I. Although other authors have attempted to bring forward the events of these hostilities, they are few in number and the research in this area is small. Additionally, few have focused on the effects of the war on the Church. In order to increase the understanding of this influence, this work examines how the First World War affected the lives of Latter-day Saints both during and after the conflict. The entire world felt the effects of the world war and the Latter-day Saints were not exempt. Yet during this war, the LDS soldiers had an opportunity to change the way that others viewed the Church. Whether during times of training or on the battlefield, the valiant actions of these men often caused other soldiers to rethink the way they felt about the Saints. One incorrect stereotype that these men helped to remove was that the Latter-day Saints had no feelings of national loyalty. Soldiers of other faiths could not continue to hold such misconceptions after having spent time working with LDS servicemen. In addition to attitude-changing influences, Church President Joseph F. Smith was particularly conscious of the effects this conflict would have on the Church. The war would disrupt missionary work as its violence closed certain areas and missionary age young men were called on to bolster the armed forces. President Smith also feared the cost of the war in lives, which deaths increased with the outbreak of the influenza epidemic. In addition to these misgivings, the president of the Church worried about the possibility that Latter-day Saints of opposing countries would have to fight one another. it would have on missionary work, the cost in lives, and the possibility of LDS servicemen having to fight against other Saints. The influence of the war was not only felt by the soldiers. Those who remained at home learned to live thriftily and to give generously to the war effort. In addition to the general ways in which the war influenced the Church, individual soldiers also had a chance to help the Church. During this war the Church appointed for the first time multiple chaplains: Brigham H. Roberts, Calvin S. Smith, and Herbert B. Maw. These three men had opportunities to work with individual soldiers and influence them for good. Veterans from this war returned home and served in positions of leadership. Some continued military service, while others sought political positions and yet others were called to serve in general leadership positions. So, in both broad and specific ways, World War I changed the lives of Latter-day Saints.