Les surcotes de tempête sont souvent sous-estimées dans les modèles hydrodynamiques, ainsi que les grandes vagues dans les modèles de vagues. Les causes possibles sont une sous-estimation des vents dans les modèles atmosphériques et/ou une formulation incorrecte de la tension de vent. Les objectifs de cette thèse sont (1) d’estimer les biais par vents forts dans les modèles atmosphériques (2) de développer une nouvelle paramétrisation du coefficient de traı̂née permettant de réduire ce biais (3) d’étudier l’impact des vagues sur la tension de vent. La méthode consiste à étudier la réponse de l’atmosphère et de l’océan à la tension de vent. Dans une première partie, nous utilisons le modèle couplé vagues-atmosphère d’ECMWF. Nous montrons que les vents forts sont sous-estimés, avec un biais de l’ordre de -7 m/s à 30 m/s. Des écarts significatifs existent aussi entre les observations, les bouées et les vents issus de ASCAT-KNMI étant généralement inférieurs à ceux des plateformes et des autres données satellites utilisées dans cette étude (AMSR2, ASCAT-RSS, WindSat, SMOS et JASON-2). La nouvelle paramétrisation développée permet d’obtenir des vents plus forts qu’avec celle d’ECMWF par défaut. Dans une deuxième partie (réponse de l’océan), nous utilisons le modèle global océanique TUGO du LEGOS forcé par le modèle couplé vagues-atmosphère d’ECMWF. Nous montrons qu’une paramétrisation de la tension de vent dépendant des vagues plutôt que du vent est plus appropriée quand l’état de mer est jeune. Elle conduit à des surcotes plus proches des observations (marégraphes et traces altimétriques de JASON-2). L’impact des vagues sur la surcote est significatif, et peut atteindre 20 cm. / Storm surges may be underestimated in hydrodynamic models, as well as large wave heights in wave models. This could come from an underestimation of strong winds in atmospheric models and/or an inappropriate wind stress formulation. The objectives of the present work are (1) to estimate how strong are the biases for high winds in atmospheric models (2) to develop a new drag parameterization that could reduce this bias (3) to investigate the impact of the waves on the wind stress. The method consists of studying the response of the atmosphere and the ocean to the wind stress.In a first part, we use the coupled wave-atmosphere model from ECMWF. We show that strong winds may be underestimated, as much as -7 m/s at 30 m/s.Significant differences also exist between observations, with buoys and ASCAT-KNMI generally showing lower wind speeds than the platforms and other remote-sensing data used in this study(AMSR2, ASCAT-RSS, WindSat, SMOS and JASON-2).The newly empirically adjusted Charnock parameterization leads to higher winds compared to the default ECMWF parameterization. In a second part, we use the global ocean model TUGO fromLEGOS forced with ECMWF coupled wave-atmopshere model. We show that a wave-dependent rather than wind-dependent stress formulation is more appropriate, when the sea state is young and the sea rougher. It yields to simulated surges closer to observations (i.e. tide gauges and JASON-2 altimeter tracks). The wave impact on the surges is significant, and may reach 20 cm.

Au cours des dernières décennies, les communautés de recherches océanographiques et atmosphérique ont démontrées que pour améliorer notre compréhension du couplage entre l'atmosphère et l'océan, et le paramétrage du flux de masse entre l'océan et l'atmosphère (gaz, aérosols, par exemple) , de moment (pour la génération de vagues et de courants marins) et d'énergie (flux de chaleur et énergie cinétique pour les courants et le processus de mélange près de la surface ) dans les modèles couplés océan-atmosphère, les vagues doivent être prises en compte. La physique du couplage dépend de la cinématique et de la dynamique du champ de vagues, y compris les processus de génération de vagues liées au vent, les interactions non-linéaires, ondes-ondes et la dissipation des vagues, cette dernière étant normalement considérée comme dominée par le déferlement. Nous présentons ici une série d'études expérimentales et numériques, démontrant l'importance du champ de vagues sur les interactions océan - atmosphère. / Over the last several decades there has been growing recognition from both the traditional oceanographic and atmospheric science communities that to better understand the coupling between the atmosphere and the ocean, and reflect that understanding in improved air-sea fluxes of mass (e.g. gases, aerosols), momentum (e.g. generation of waves and currents) and energy (e.g. heat and kinetic energy for currents and mixing) in coupled ocean-atmosphere models, surface-wave processes must be taken into account. The underlying physics of the coupling depends on the kinematics and dynamics of the wave field, including processes of wind-wave growth, nonlinear wave-wave interactions, wave-current interactions and wave dissipation, with the last normally considered dominated by wave breaking. Here we present a series of experiments, both numerical and field observations, focusing on surface wave effects on air-sea interaction processes.

YSCAT is a unique ultrawideband microwave scatterometer developed to investigate the sea surface under a variety of environmental and radar parameters. The YSCAT94 experiment consisted of a six month deployment on the WAVES research tower operated by the Canada Center for inland Waters (CCIW). Over 3500 hours of data were collected at 2Γ 3.05Γ 5.3Γ 10.02Γ and 14 GHz and at a variety of wind speeds, relative azimuth angles, and incidence angle. A low wind speed "rolloff" of the normalized radar cross section (σ°) in YSCAT94 data is found and quantified. The rolloff wind speedΓ γΓ is estimated through regression estimation analysis using an Epanechnikov kernel. For YSCAT94 data, the rolloff is most noticeable at mid-range incidence angles with γ values ranging from 3 to 6 m/s. In order to characterized YSCAT94 backscatter distributions, a second order polynomial in log space is developed as a model for the probability of the radar cross sectionΓρ(σ°). Following Gotwols and ThompsonΓρ(σ°) is found to adhere to a log-normal distribution for horizontal polarization and a generalized log-normal distribution for vertical polarization. If ρ(α|σ°) is assumed to be Rayleigh distributed, the instantaneous amplitude distribution ρ(α) is found to be the integral of a Rayleigh/generalized log-normal distribution. A robust algorithm is developed to fit this probability density function to YSCAT94 backscatter distributions. The mean and variance of the generalized log-normal distribution are derived to facilitate this algorithm. Over 2700 distinct data cases sorted according to five different frequencies, horizontal and vertical polarizations, upwind and downwind, eight different incidence angles Γ1-10 m/s wind speeds, and 0.1-0.38 mean wave slope are considered. Definite trends are recognizable in the fitted parameters a1Γ a2Γ and C of the Rayleigh/generalized log-normal distribution when sorted according to wind speed and mean wave slope. At mid-range incidence angles, the Rayleigh/generalized log-normal distribution is found to adequately characterize both low and high amplitude portions of YSCAT94 backscatter distributions. However, at higher incidence angels (50°and 60°) the more general Weibull/generalized log-normal distributions is found to better characterized the low amplitude portion of the backscatter distributions.

In May of 2000 Jason-1, a joint project between NASA and the French space agency CNES, will be launched. Its mission is to continue the highly successful gathering of data which TOPEX/Poseidon has collected since August of 1992. The main goal of Jason-1 is to achieve higher accuracy in measuring the mean sea level (MSL). In order to do so, the electromagnetic (EM) bias must be estimated more accurately because it is the largest contributing error. This thesis presents two different studies which add to the knowledge and improve estimation of the EM bias, and thus assists Jason-1 in achieving its primary goal. Oceanographic data collected from two different experiments are analyzed; on in the Gulf of Mexico (GME) and the other in Bass Strait, Australia (BSE). The first study is a spatial analysis of the backscattered power versus the phase of the wave. Its purpose is to determine why the normalized EM bias stops increasing and levels out at high wind speeds (about 11 m/s) and then decreases at higher wind speeds. Two possible causes are investigated. First, it could be due to a shift in the backscatter power modulation to the forward or rear face of the wave crests. Second, it may be due to the backscatter power becoming more homogeneous throughout the wave profile. This study is novel because it uses the knowledge of the spatial distribution of both the backscatter and wave displacement for the study of the EM bias. Both contribute to the EM bias decrease, but the latter cause seems to be the dominant effect. This study is performed on GME data. The second study uses two different nonparametric regression (NPR) techniques to estimate the EM bias. A recent study of satellite data from the TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter supports that the bias is modeled better using NPR regression. A traditional parametric fit is compared to two NPR techniques with GME data. The parametric fit is a variation of NASA's equation used to estimate EM bias for their Geophysical Data Records (GDRs). The two NPR techniques used are the Nadaraya-Watson Regression (NWR) and Local Linear Regression (LLR) estimators. Two smoothing kernel functions are used with each NPR technique, namely the Gaussian and the Epanechnikov kernels. NPR methods essentially consist of statistically smoothing the measured EM bias estimates are compared in the wind and significant wave height plane. Another recent study has shown that wave slope is strongly correlated to EM bias. With this knowledge, EM bias is estimated over several two-dimensional planes which include wave slope in attempt to reduce the residual bias. This portion of the study is performed on GME and BSE data. It is shown that a combination of slope, significant wave height, and wind speed used in conjunction with these NPR methods produces the best EM bias estimate for tower data.

<p>Knowledge of the turbulent fluxes at the sea surface is important for understanding the interaction between atmosphere and ocean. With better knowledge, improvements in the estimation of the heat exchange coefficients can be made and hence models are able to predict the weather and future climate with higher accuracy.</p><p>The exchange coefficients of latent and sensible heat during stable stratification vary in the literature. Therefore it is necessary to investigate the processes influencing the air-sea exchange of water vapour and heat in order to estimate these values. With measurements from a tower and a directional waverider buoy at the site Östergarnsholm in the Baltic Sea, data used in this study have been sampled from the years 2005-2007. This site represents open-ocean conditions during most situations when the wind comes from the south-east sector. The neutral exchange coefficients, CEN and CHN, have been calculated along with the non-dimensional profile functions for temperature and wind to study the dependence of stability and other parameters of relevance.</p><p>It was found that CEN increased slightly with wind speed and reached a mean value of approximately 1.45×10-3. The highest values of CEN were observed during near neutral conditions and low wave ages. CHN attained a mean value of approximately 0.77×10-3 and did not show any relation to wind speed or to wave age. No significant dependence with wind or wave direction could be shown for either CEN or CHN in the sector 80-220°. The stability correction, performed to reduce the dependence on stratification for CEN and CHN, was well performed for stabilities higher than 0.15. The stability is represented by a relationship between the height and the Obukhov-length (z/L).</p><p>Validity of the non-dimensional profile functions for temperature and wind showed that, for smaller stabilities, these functions gave higher values than the corresponding functions recommended by Högström (1996). The profile funtions for temperature was shown to have a larger scatter while the profile functions for wind was less scattered and deviated more from the functions given by Högström</p> / <p>Kunskap om turbulenta flöden i det marina gränsskiktet är viktigt för att förstå växelverkan mellan atmosfär och hav. Med bättre kunskap kan förbättringar i bestämningen av utbyteskoefficienterna för latent och sensibelt värme erhållas. Det medför att modeller kan prognostisera väder och framtida klimat med högre noggrannhet.</p><p>Utbyteskoefficienterna för latent och sensibelt värme har för stabil skiktning olika värden i litteraturen. Detta gör det nödvändigt att undersöka de processer som påverkar utbytet av vattenånga och värme mellan luft och hav för att kunna bestämma dessa värden. Data som har använts i den här studien insamlades mellan år 2005 och 2007 från en boj och ett torn vid mätplatsen Östergarnsholm i Baltiska havet. För det flesta situationer, när vinden blåser från syd-ost, representerar mätplatsen ett förhållande likvärdigt det över öppet hav. De neutrala utbyteskoefficienterna, CEN och CHN, och de dimensionslösa profilfunktionera för temperatur och vind, och , har beräknats för att studera beroendet av stabilitet samt andra relevanta parametrar.</p><p>Beräkningarna visade att CEN ökade något med vindhastighet och hamnade på ett medelvärde av ungefär 1.45×10-3. De högsta värdena på CEN observerades vid nära neutrala förhållanden och låga vågåldrar. CHN uppmättes till att ha ett medelvärde på ungefär 0.77×10-3 och uppvisade inget beroende med vindhastighet eller vågålder. Inget märkbart beroende med vind- eller vågriktning kunde visas för CEN eller CHN i sektorn 80-220°. Stabilitetskorrektionen, utförd för att reducera beroendet av atmosfärens skiktning för CEN och CHN, var bra för stabiliteter högre än 0.15. Stabiliteten representeras av förhållandet mellan höjden och Obukhov-längden (z/L).</p><p>Utvärdering av de dimensionslösa funktionerna för temperatur och vind visade att dessa funktioner, för små stabiliteter, gav högre värden än motsvarande funktioner som rekommenderas av Högström (1996). Värdena på profilfunktionerna för temperatur hade större spridning än värdena på profilfunktionerna för vind och avvek mer från funktionerna givna av Högström.</p>

<p>Oceans cover about 70% of the earth’s surface. They are the largest source of the atmospheric water vapour and act as enormous heat reservoirs. Thus in order to predict the future weather and climate it is of great importance to understand the processes governing the exchange of water vapour and heat between the ocean and atmosphere. This exchange is to a large extent mediated by turbulent eddies. Current numerical climate and weather forecast models are unable to resolve the turbulence, which means that the turbulent exchange needs to be simplified by using parameterizations. </p><p>Tower based measurements at the Östergarnsholm Island in the Baltic Sea have been used to study the air-sea turbulent exchange of latent and sensible heat and the heat flux parameterizations. Although the measurements are made at an island, data obtained at this site is shown to represent open ocean conditions during most situations for winds coming from the east-south sector. It is found that during conditions with small air-sea temperature differences and wind speeds above 10 m s^-1, the structure of the turbulence is re-organized. Drier and colder air from aloft is transported to the surface by detached eddies, which considerably enhance the turbulent heat fluxes. The fluxes where observed to be much larger than predicted by current state-of-the-art parameterizations. The turbulence regime during these conditions is termed the Unstable Very Close to Neutral Regime, the UVCN-regime.</p><p>The global increase of the latent and sensible heat fluxes due to the UVCN-regime is calculated to 2.4 W m^-2 and 0.8 W m^-2 respectively. This is comparable to the current increase of the radiative forcing due to anthropogenic emissions of greenhouse gases, reported in Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change fourth assessment report (IPCC AR4). Thus the UVCN-effect could have a significant influence when predicting the future weather and climate.</p>

Oceans cover about 70% of the earth’s surface. They are the largest source of the atmospheric water vapour and act as enormous heat reservoirs. Thus in order to predict the future weather and climate it is of great importance to understand the processes governing the exchange of water vapour and heat between the ocean and atmosphere. This exchange is to a large extent mediated by turbulent eddies. Current numerical climate and weather forecast models are unable to resolve the turbulence, which means that the turbulent exchange needs to be simplified by using parameterizations. Tower based measurements at the Östergarnsholm Island in the Baltic Sea have been used to study the air-sea turbulent exchange of latent and sensible heat and the heat flux parameterizations. Although the measurements are made at an island, data obtained at this site is shown to represent open ocean conditions during most situations for winds coming from the east-south sector. It is found that during conditions with small air-sea temperature differences and wind speeds above 10 m s-1, the structure of the turbulence is re-organized. Drier and colder air from aloft is transported to the surface by detached eddies, which considerably enhance the turbulent heat fluxes. The fluxes where observed to be much larger than predicted by current state-of-the-art parameterizations. The turbulence regime during these conditions is termed the Unstable Very Close to Neutral Regime, the UVCN-regime. The global increase of the latent and sensible heat fluxes due to the UVCN-regime is calculated to 2.4 W m-2 and 0.8 W m-2 respectively. This is comparable to the current increase of the radiative forcing due to anthropogenic emissions of greenhouse gases, reported in Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change fourth assessment report (IPCC AR4). Thus the UVCN-effect could have a significant influence when predicting the future weather and climate.

Knowledge of the turbulent fluxes at the sea surface is important for understanding the interaction between atmosphere and ocean. With better knowledge, improvements in the estimation of the heat exchange coefficients can be made and hence models are able to predict the weather and future climate with higher accuracy. The exchange coefficients of latent and sensible heat during stable stratification vary in the literature. Therefore it is necessary to investigate the processes influencing the air-sea exchange of water vapour and heat in order to estimate these values. With measurements from a tower and a directional waverider buoy at the site Östergarnsholm in the Baltic Sea, data used in this study have been sampled from the years 2005-2007. This site represents open-ocean conditions during most situations when the wind comes from the south-east sector. The neutral exchange coefficients, CEN and CHN, have been calculated along with the non-dimensional profile functions for temperature and wind to study the dependence of stability and other parameters of relevance. It was found that CEN increased slightly with wind speed and reached a mean value of approximately 1.45×10-3. The highest values of CEN were observed during near neutral conditions and low wave ages. CHN attained a mean value of approximately 0.77×10-3 and did not show any relation to wind speed or to wave age. No significant dependence with wind or wave direction could be shown for either CEN or CHN in the sector 80-220°. The stability correction, performed to reduce the dependence on stratification for CEN and CHN, was well performed for stabilities higher than 0.15. The stability is represented by a relationship between the height and the Obukhov-length (z/L). Validity of the non-dimensional profile functions for temperature and wind showed that, for smaller stabilities, these functions gave higher values than the corresponding functions recommended by Högström (1996). The profile funtions for temperature was shown to have a larger scatter while the profile functions for wind was less scattered and deviated more from the functions given by Högström / Kunskap om turbulenta flöden i det marina gränsskiktet är viktigt för att förstå växelverkan mellan atmosfär och hav. Med bättre kunskap kan förbättringar i bestämningen av utbyteskoefficienterna för latent och sensibelt värme erhållas. Det medför att modeller kan prognostisera väder och framtida klimat med högre noggrannhet. Utbyteskoefficienterna för latent och sensibelt värme har för stabil skiktning olika värden i litteraturen. Detta gör det nödvändigt att undersöka de processer som påverkar utbytet av vattenånga och värme mellan luft och hav för att kunna bestämma dessa värden. Data som har använts i den här studien insamlades mellan år 2005 och 2007 från en boj och ett torn vid mätplatsen Östergarnsholm i Baltiska havet. För det flesta situationer, när vinden blåser från syd-ost, representerar mätplatsen ett förhållande likvärdigt det över öppet hav. De neutrala utbyteskoefficienterna, CEN och CHN, och de dimensionslösa profilfunktionera för temperatur och vind, och , har beräknats för att studera beroendet av stabilitet samt andra relevanta parametrar. Beräkningarna visade att CEN ökade något med vindhastighet och hamnade på ett medelvärde av ungefär 1.45×10-3. De högsta värdena på CEN observerades vid nära neutrala förhållanden och låga vågåldrar. CHN uppmättes till att ha ett medelvärde på ungefär 0.77×10-3 och uppvisade inget beroende med vindhastighet eller vågålder. Inget märkbart beroende med vind- eller vågriktning kunde visas för CEN eller CHN i sektorn 80-220°. Stabilitetskorrektionen, utförd för att reducera beroendet av atmosfärens skiktning för CEN och CHN, var bra för stabiliteter högre än 0.15. Stabiliteten representeras av förhållandet mellan höjden och Obukhov-längden (z/L). Utvärdering av de dimensionslösa funktionerna för temperatur och vind visade att dessa funktioner, för små stabiliteter, gav högre värden än motsvarande funktioner som rekommenderas av Högström (1996). Värdena på profilfunktionerna för temperatur hade större spridning än värdena på profilfunktionerna för vind och avvek mer från funktionerna givna av Högström.

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Turbulent fluxes may be directly determined as the statistical covariance between quantities locally observed. Besides environmental and instrumental difficulties associated with taking high frequency measurements over the ocean, there is a source of uncertainty inherent to the estimation of turbulent fluxes in the atmosphere, and it is their contamination by nonturbulent motion. This problem is directly related to the time window over which the covariances are determined and to the cospectral gap that, in theory, separates turbulent and nonturbulent events. In this work, we use a methodology based in the Empirical Mode Decomposition, which allows the precise identification of the cospectral gap for each temporal interval over which the fluxes are determined. Furthermore, this novel methodology allows filtering out oscillation modes associated with nonturbulent events, therefore allowing the use of a time window over which the large turbulent eddies are completely sampled. To test the method, data from two oceanic cruises have been used. One is from project HalocAST-2010 (over Eastern Pacific), and the other is from project Acex 2012 (over Southwestern Atlantic). The use of the new method in 4-h time series resulted in an increase of the absolute values of the fluxes of sensible heat, latent heat and momentum, with respect to those determined with the traditionally used 10-minute time series. For CO2 fluxes, it has been observed a large reduction of the average absolute fluxes, suggesting that such measurement may be largely contaminated by nonturbulent fluxes. When compared to bulk estimates, fluxes obtained by the new methodology show reduced scatter with respect to those determined from fixed 10-minute windows. The scatter reduction of the CO2 flux estimates allowed the determination of a functional relationship between piston velocity and wind speed, which is not possible to be obtained from the 10-minute estimates. / Fluxos turbulentos são determinados diretamente através da covariância estatística de medidas localmente obtidas. Além das dificuldades ambientais e instrumentais encontradas na realização de medidas de alta frequência em regiões oceânicas, existe uma fonte de incerteza inerente às estimativas de fluxos turbulentos na atmosfera que é a contaminação desses pelos movimentos de mesoescala. Esse problema está diretamente relacionado com a janela temporal em que as covariâncias são calculadas e a lacuna espectral que separa os eventos turbulentos dos não-turbulentos. Nesse trabalho, utilizamos uma metodologia baseada na Decomposição em Modos Empíricos que permite a identificação da lacuna coespectral para cada intervalo em que os fluxos são calculados. Além disso, essa nova metodologia possibilita a filtragem dos modos de oscilação associados aos eventos não-turbulentos, permitido que seja usada uma janela temporal em que os grandes turbilhões sejam suficientemente amostrados. Foram utilizadas as medidas obtidas nos cruzeiros realizados pelos projetos HalocAST-2010 (leste do Pacífico) e ACEx-2012 (Atlântico Sudoeste). O uso da nova metodologia em séries de 4 h resultou em um aumento nos valores absolutos dos fluxos médios de calor sensível, latente e momento em comparação aos tradicionalmente calculados a partir de séries de 10 min. Isso mostra que, além da remoção da contribuição dos eventos de mesoescala, uma melhor representação do transporte associado aos grandes turbilhões também foi obtida. No caso do CO2, foi observada uma grande redução no valor absoluto dos fluxos médios, sugerindo que essa medida possa estar sendo fortemente contaminada pelos eventos não-turbulentos. Quando comparados com estimativas de bulk, os fluxos obtidos pela nova metodologia apresentam menor espalhamento que os calculados a partir de janelas de 10 min. A redução no espalhamento das medidas dos fluxos de CO2, possibilitou a determinação de uma relação funcional da velocidade de transferência com a velocidade do vento, que não pôde ser observada de maneira clara a partir das medidas de 10 min.

Oceanic microwave remote sensing provides the data necessary for the estimation of significant geophysical parameters such as the near-surface vector wind. To obtain accurate estimates, a precise understanding of the measurements is critical. This work clarifies and quantifies specific uncertainties in the scattered power measured by an active radar instrument. While there are many sources of uncertainty in remote sensing measurements, this work concentrates on three significant, yet largely unstudied effects. With a theoretical derivation of the backscatter from an ocean-like surface, results from this dissertation demonstrate that the backscatter decays with surface roughness with two distinct modes of behavior, affected by the size of the footprint. A technique is developed and scatterometer data analyzed to quantify the variability of spaceborne backscatter measurements for given wind conditions; the impact on wind retrieval is described in terms of bias and the Cramer-Rao lower bound. The probability density function of modified periodogram averages (a spectral estimation technique) is derived in generality and for the specific case of power estimates made by the NASA scatterometer. The impact on wind retrieval is quantified.