by Ng So-ying Gloria. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1982

by Lai Yuen Mei. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1998. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves [175-179]). / Abstract also in Chinese. / Chapter Chapter One: --- Introduction --- p.1 / Chapter 1.1. --- Primary Concern of the study and Research Problems / Chapter 1.2. --- Data and Methodology / Chapter 1.3. --- Organization of chapters / Chapter Chapter Two: --- Literature Review on Industrialization and Global Commodity Chain Perspective --- p.7 / Chapter 2.1 --- Existing theoretical perspectives on industrializations and their limitations / Chapter 2.1.1. --- Free Market Explanation / Chapter 2.1.2. --- World-system economy perspective / Chapter 2.1.3. --- Statist perspective / Chapter 2.1.4. --- Historical institutional perspective / Chapter 2.2. --- The Global Commodity Chain Perspective / Chapter 2.2.1. --- Global Commodity Chain perspective / Chapter 2.2.2. --- Studies about the buyer-driven GCCs / Chapter 2.2.3. --- Strengths and limitations of the GCCs / Chapter 2.3. --- Bringing back organization to our analysis / Chapter Chapter Three: --- The historical development of Hong Kong's garment industry after the post-war period --- p.32 / Chapter 3.1. --- The industrial take-off after the post-war era / Chapter 3.2. --- Dominance of local capital and small establishments / Chapter 3.3. --- The Continuation of low-wage manufacturing in the eighties / Chapter 3.4. --- Concluding Remarks / Chapter Chapter Four: --- Product Strategy and Mode of Insertion of local manufacturers in the buyer-driven commodity chain --- p.39 / Chapter 4.1. --- General Profile of the thirteen garment factories / Chapter 4.2. --- Product Strategy of local manufacturers in doing OEM and OBM / Chapter 4.2.1. --- Shift the product line from low-end to medium or high-end / Chapter 4.2.2. --- Specialization on specific markets target / Chapter 4.2.3. --- Diversification of product lines with different price ranges / Chapter 4.3. --- Experiences of doing OBM / Chapter 4.4. --- How foreign buyers are attracted to the domestic node / Chapter 4.4.1. --- Make a perfect match in the market / Chapter 4.4.2. --- How to maintain relationship with buyers / Chapter 4.5. --- Concluding Remarks / Chapter Chapter Five: --- Interfirm Linkages in the Buyer-Driven Commodity Chain --- p.65 / Chapter 5.1. --- Local trading network as the mediator in the GCCs / Chapter 5.1.1. --- Coordinating function in order match and production stage / Chapter 5.1.2. --- Financial function of the trading houses to the factories / Chapter 5.1.3. --- Managing conflicts and contingencies between two parties / Chapter 5.2 --- Build up direct linkage with the buyers in the GCCs / Chapter 5.3. --- "Emergence of “close´ح and ""loose"" ties between local manufacturers and overseas buyers in the GCCs" / Chapter 5.3.1. --- Close-tie pattern / Chapter 5.3.2. --- Loose-tie pattern / Chapter 5.4. --- Discussion and implications on the buyer-driven governance structure / Chapter 5.5. --- Concluding Remarks / Chapter Chapter Six: --- Relocation Strategy of local manufacturers in different ties with buyers --- p.95 / Chapter 6.1. --- Relocation decisions in different pattern of ties / Chapter 6.1.1. --- Close-tie pattern with relocation / Chapter 6.1.2. --- Loose-tie pattern with relocation / Chapter 6.2. --- Intra-organizational comparison on relocation - triggering of relocation / Chapter 6.2.1. --- Pioneers in relocation - search for organizational growth / Chapter 6.2.2. --- "Late-comers in relocation - emergence of ""mimetic isomorphism""" / Chapter 6.3. --- Factories without relocation / Chapter 6.3.1. --- Support of subcontracting network in South China / Chapter 6.3.2. --- Buyers' participation in the South China's subcontracting network / Chapter 6.3.3. --- The experience of a second-tier producer in the GCCs / Chapter 6.4. --- Concluding Remarks / Chapter Chapter Seven: --- Social Outcomes after relocation in the commodity chain --- p.139 / Chapter 7.1. --- Three types of outcomes emerge within organizations - expansion or contraction? / Chapter 7.1.1. --- Relocation with horizontal expansion / Chapter 7.1.2. --- Relocation with vertical expansion / Chapter 7.1.3. --- Relocation but failed / Chapter 7.2. --- Implications on product upgrading after relocation / Chapter 7.3. --- Changes in organization of production in the Buyer-driven GCCs after restructuring process / Chapter 7.4. --- Concluding Remarks / Chapter Chapter Eight: --- Conclusion --- p.164 / Chapter 8.1. --- Rethinking the thesis of buyer-driven role in the commodity chain / Chapter 8.2. --- Forces that shape the restructuring strategy of domestic garment manufacturers / Chapter 8.3. --- Towards an organizational level analysis of industrial restructuring in Hong Kong / Chapter 8.4. --- Limitations of the study in this thesis / Chapter 8.5. --- Proposed direction for future research / Appendix / Chapter 1. --- Bibliography / Chapter 2. --- The semi-structured questions for the interview / Chapter 3. --- The title of the contact persons among the thirteen garment firms

This thesis explores the ways in which the kimono retail industry in contemporary Japanese society is changing in response to the economic crisis of the 1990s and the declining popularity of the kimono as formal wear, leading to falling demand and sales. A central aim of this thesis is to address the lack of academic literature focused on the kimono, particularly economic aspects of the kimono such as the way it is made, sold and consumed. Based on twelve months of ethnographic fieldwork in Aichi prefecture, Kyoto, Tokyo and Yamagata with kimono shop owners, wholesalers, craftspeople, writers, bloggers, designers, government officials and consumers, this thesis explores how a small but influential group that I call the 'kimono fashion network' are aiming to change the industry from within by marketing the kimono as fashion and framing the kimono as a lifestyle choice. Their efforts have led to a monumental shift in manufacturing, marketing and selling strategies that have effectively aligned the kimono with global discourses about fashion. This shift has split the kimono retail industry into two camps: those who sell kimono as ceremonial wear for key ritual occasions such as weddings, funerals, tea ceremonies, coming of age ceremonies, graduation and school entrance ceremonies, and those who sell it for fashion. I begin by examining the socio-economic factors that led to falling demand and therefore falling sales in the industry, before exploring how the industry is structured in terms of production and distribution. Finally, I explore how and why the kimono fashion network have gone about changing the industry from within. Adding a different perspective to prevailing understandings of traditional culture in Japan as a vehicle for cultural nationalism, I argue that the contemporary kimono fashion movement has many similiarities with the global phenomenon of lifestyle consumer culture to be found across industrialised nations.

Typescript, etc. / Digitized by Kansas Correctional Industries

This doctoral enquiry develops practice-orientated approaches to design for sustainability. It focuses on the relationship between garment design, laundry practices and sustainability, and responds to research that evidences domestic laundering as one of the most environmentally damaging stages in a garment’s lifecycle (Allwood, et al.,2006; Hansen, et al., 2007). A one-year laundry study surveyed the use and laundry of sixteen garments to ascertain the relationship between garment design and laundry behaviour. The research findings revealed that laundry behaviours are complex and unpredictable, and often not directly linked to producing cleaner clothes. Laundry routines are underpinned by factors beyond cleanliness including: garment use, social auditing, garment aesthetics,life stage, cultural norms, and spatial arrangements within the household. Through re-examining laundry as a social practice the research develops a series of design provocations to challenge the organisation of laundry practices, and by extension the frequencies and processes in which laundry is carried out. The findings highlight that understanding laundry as a social practice opens a space to reconceptualise design, laundry behaviour and sustainability. It decentres material products and attends to the embedded social dynamics that are set within a nexus of spaces, materials, thoughts, actions and emotions. This provides an alternative lens from which to view and develop design theories and practice for sustainability in fashion. The central insight from the research shows there are multiple benefits from incorporating social theory into methodologies for design for sustainability.

Orientador: Ivan De Domenico Valarelli / Banca: Marizilda dos Santos Menezes / Banca: Suzana Barreto Martins / Resumo: Para o lançamento de novos produtos industriais na área do vestuário, os profissionais responsáveis necessitam utilizar a ergonomia durante as etapas de construção do produto. A pesquisa tem como objetivo identificar os métodos de desenvolvimento de produtos utilizados pelas indústrias do vestuário/moda da região noroeste do Paraná e sua interface com a tabela de medidas do vestuário. O estudo inicia-se tratando das relações com a antropometria e as tabelas de medidas utilizadas pelas modelistas nas empresas e da fundamentação teórica acerca de métodos de projeto de produto de design e métodos de projetação para vestuário. A pesquisa qualitativa tem como ambiente industrial pesquisado os municípios de Cianorte e Maringá, e os sujeitos participantes são os designers responsáveis pelo setor de desenvolvimento de produto. Pela análise da revisão bibliográfica e dos resultados obtidos mediante entrevista constatou-se a preocupação com aspectos ergonômicos durante o processo de projetação dos produtos, assim como atenção especial para a etapa de planejamento da coleção / Abstract: For the launch of new industrial products in the clothing area, the responsible professionals need to use ergonomics during the phases of the product construction. This research aims to identify methods of product development used by the clothing industries in the northwest region of Paraná and its interface with the measurement tables of clothing. The study initiates by considering the relationship with anthropometry and measurement tables used by designers in companies and the theoretical framework about methods of product design and methods for clothing designing. The qualitative research ha as an industrial environment researched the cities of Maringá and Cianorte, and the subjects participants are the designers responsible by the product development sector. By analyzing the literature and the during the process of the designing of the products, as well as a special attention to the planning phase of the collection / Mestre

Orientador: João Eduardo Guarnetti dos Santos / Co-orientador: Abílio Garcia dos Santos Filho / Co-orientador: Ana Paula Celso de Miranda / Banca: Luis Carlos Paschoarelli / Banca: Paulo Kawauchi / Banca: José Carlos Plácido da Silva / Banca: Cristina do Carmo Lucio / Resumo: A concepção e disponibilização de artefatos com propriedades ou atributos ergonômicos incorporados, como vestimentas de proteção, a partir dos princípios do ergodesign podem servir como instrumento para aumento de produtividade, redução dos incidentes e acidentes de trabalho e melhoria da qualidade de vida dos trabalhadores envolvido na atividade. Esta investigação de tese é pautada nos princípios do Ergonomia e Design, com vistas a colaborar para o acesso e disseminação das variáveis concernentes a um confortável vestuário laboral para profissionais do setor de petróleo e gás brasileiro. Interfaces vestíveis desenvolvidas sem o atendimento aos requisitos de usabilidade levam a um desempenho deficiente, além de uma redução da qualidade da interação sujeito e vestimenta. De forma que, para condução da investigação da tese, estruturou-se a pesquisa dividida em quatro fases: um levantamento bibliográfico, que apontou a fragilidade e pouca produção tipicamente nacional sobre o assunto; uma análise documental, que reuniu a legislação e normas brasileiras vigentes identificando certa "omissão" ao apresentar lacunas na efetiva prevenção de incidentes e acidentes no âmbito laboral; uma avaliação heurística, apontando fragilidades na usabilidade do sistema nacional de gerenciamento de Equipamentos de Proteção Individual - EPI; e uma consulta a stakeholders, que analisou o discurso das instituições e os agentes responsáveis pela regulação dos vestuários de proteção, alvo desta investigação e apontou certas incongruências / Abstract: The design and deployment of artifacts with incorporated ergonomic properties or atributes, such as protective clothing, from ergodesign principles can serve as a tool to increase productivity, reduce incidents and accidents and improving the quality of life of workers involved in activity. This thesis is based on the principles of Ergonomics and Design, with a view to contributing to the access and dissemination of variables concering a comfortable work clothing for professionals in the oil and gas Brazilian. Wearable interfaces developed without attention to usability requirements lead to poor performance, and a reduction in the quality of the interaction between the subjects and their clothing. Therefore, that, for conducting this research thesis was structured four phases: a literature review, which showed the fragility and low domestic production on the theme. Documentary analysis, which brought together the current legislation and Brazilian standards indentifying certain "omission" when presented the gaps in effective prevention of incidents and accidents in the workplace. A heuristic evaluation, pointing out weaknesses in the usability of the National System of Management Personal Protective Equipment - PPE and a consultation of stakeholders, when analysis the speech of the institutions and agents responsible for regulating the protective clothing, target of this investigation, and pointed out certain inconsistencies / Doutor

Barnoveraller är ett specifikt område inom klädesbranschen. Det ligger lång produktutveckling bakom, som har pågår under ett flertal år, vilket har förbättrat slutprodukten vad det gäller material, beläggningar och sömnadstyper.I B-uppsatsen finner du lättare materialinformation, konstruktionsinformation, nationella samt internationella standarder, krav ställda ifrån tre olika företag och utav ”barnoverallskunden”. Det här samarbetet blir vårt försök att bidra till barnoverallsmarknaden.Vi har utgått ifrån vår referens, ett privatägt barnklädesföretag från Bollebygd, Sverige.1 De har gett oss möjlighet att få vara med i produktutvecklingsprocessen och leta förbättringar som kan gynna slutprodukten och 2bseen som företag. Det har också gett oss möjlighet att skänka något litet (en sammanställning) som kan användas av fler företag i liknande bransch och situation.2bseen önskade sig ett samarbete där vår roll skulle innebära en fortsatt produktutveckling på befintliga produkter som i produktion fått ett och annat fel.Childrens clothing is a particular area of clothing business. There is a lot of product development behind the product, which has been going on for several years. As the case of materials, coatings and sewing operation there have been small but significant changes in the final product. This material is lighter information about fabric, design and standards (national and international). We have also made inquiries into the demands made from three different companies and from customers who buy overalls for their children. With this B-essay we wish to contribute to the children's overall market. We started from our reference, a private childrens clothing company from Bollebygd, Sweden. They have given us the opportunity to be involved in the products development process and look for improvements that could benefit their business, the final product and also to donate a small summary that other companies in a similar industry could benefit from.2bseen, our reference in this B-essay wanted a partnership in which our role would be a continued product development of existing products in production which had a few things that wasn’t right. / Program: Textil produktutveckling med entreprenörs- och affärsinriktning

This thesis explores the tensions that arise when business enterprises respond to situations that have both commercial aspects and implications for workers. Using Grounded Theory methodology it examines data from 56 case profiles, extensive interviews and secondary sources in order to understand the nature and variety of the social and commercial commitments that enterprises in the Indian textile and garment industries make and how these are influenced by the rules and conventions inherent in global value chains and in the local culture. It uses concepts drawn from Convention Theory, from social realism and from the social justice literature to develop an analytical framework that explains how priorities are coordinated in three arenas – within enterprises, in interactions connected with the workplace and in society as a whole. The findings show that, in the mainstream, social commitments are generally weak and behaviour towards workers is inconsistent, reflecting a reactive stance that ethical trading has done little to change. Most social enterprises have similarly weak commercial commitments and efforts by Fair Trade organisations to reach mainstream markets have proved problematic. Few examples have been found of commercial success achieved in a way that also meets the criteria of social justice. Those cases that have come closest have created new business models that integrate social and commercial values, forged by means of long-term business relationships or partnerships. A variety of mutually-reinforcing factors combine to determine the balance of priorities – public discourse, engagement by stakeholders, including workers, and internal processes for resolving differences – and these are affected by the level of scrutiny and openness to organisational learning. Interventions aimed at greater social justice in the industry or at scaling up social enterprise need to recognise the complexity of these interrelationships and the ways in which rules, conventions and commitments blend to determine behaviour.

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