One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life & Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life and Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)

À bord des aéronefs de transport commercial, lorsqu’un passager est victime d’un arrêt cardio-respiratoire, les membres d’équipage de cabine, appelés « PNC » (Personnel Navigant Commercial) dans la terminologie aéronautique, interviennent comme tout secouriste en initiant la chaîne de survie afin d’améliorer le pronostic vital de ce dernier. Dotés d’une formation très sérieuse et périodiquement mise à niveau, les PNC sont capables de prendre en charge des situations d’urgence médicales et de donner les premiers secours liés aux urgences potentielles, aux états de malaise, ainsi que ceux liés aux circonstances et à un environnement particulier. La réanimation cardio-pulmonaire, tâche exceptionnelle et rare en vol, génère le plus fréquemment des émotions négatives ainsi que du stress auprès des PNC. Cette recherche aborde le stress des membres d’équipage de cabine dans la prise en charge d’une réanimation cardio-pulmonaire en vol selon une approche psychologique et plus singulièrement celle en relation avec la théorie transactionnelle de Lazarus et Folkman (1984) dont l’évaluation cognitive et les « copings » des individus occupent une place centrale. Élaborée à partir d’un recueil de données construit par entretiens semi-directifs auprès d’un groupe de 32 PNC volontaires exerçant leur profession sur des aéronefs de petite capacité de transport passagers, elle se propose d’identifier les facteurs influençant le stress des PNC selon une perspective synchronique. Aussi, afin de cerner le plus d’explication possible de la variance du stress, nous avons pris en compte deux variables personnelles, l’expérience professionnelle et le lieu de contrôle des sujets. Les résultats indiquent que plusieurs facteurs peuvent prédire ou influencer l’état de stress des PNC. Ils montrent une relation significative entre le lieu de contrôle des sujets, l’évaluation cognitive de la situation aversive, le lieu de prise en charge de la victime en arrêt cardiaque et l’état de stress des PNC. Ainsi, les sujets « internalistes » évaluant la situation aversive comme un défi et développant des stratégies d’ajustement centrées sur les problèmes sont les moins stressés. Par ailleurs, le milieu aéronautique augmente l’état de stress des PNC en raison de la forte responsabilité morale envers la victime-passager, du confinement de la cabine, du délai de la mise en œuvre du quatrième maillon de la chaîne de survie ainsi que de la ressource sociale limitée en vol. Enfin, l’amélioration de la formation en premiers secours peut aider les PNC à mieux appréhender cette situation d’urgence en vol. / On board commercial transport aircraft when a passenger suffers from a cardiac arrest, the cabin crew members, called "PNC" (Personnel Navigant Commercial) in aviation terminology, act as any rescuer by initiating survival chain to improve the prognosis of the victim. With a very serious training and periodically upgrade, cabin crew members are able to handle medical emergencies and first-aid related to potential emergencies, discomfort states as well as those related to a circumstance and a particular environment. Cardiopulmonary resuscitation, exceptional and rare task in flight, generates the most frequent negative emotions and stress from cabin crew members. This research deals with the stress of cabin crew members in the management of a cardiopulmonary resuscitation in flight using a psychological approach and particularly the related transactional theory of Lazarus and Folkman (1984) in which appraisal and coping are central. Developed from a data collection built by semi-structured interviews with a group of 32 cabin crew members volunteers flying on small passenger carrying capacity aircraft, it aims to identify the factors influencing their stress in a synchronic perspective. Also, in order to identify the most possible explanation for the variance of stress, we took into account both personal variables such as professional experience and locus of control of the subjects.The results indicate that several factors can predict or influence the cabin crew members’stress. They show a significant relationship between the subject’s locus of control, appraisal of aversive situation, place of management of the victim in cardiac arrest and the stress of the cabin crew members. Thus, « internalist » subjects who assess the situation as a challenge and develop strategies focused on the problems are less stressed. Furthermore, the aviation industry increases the stress state of the cabin crew because of the strong moral responsibility to the victim-passenger, confinement of the cabin, the period of the implementation of the fourth link in the chain of survival (medicalized CPR) and the limited social resource in flight. At last, the improvement of first-aid training can help cabin crew members to manage better this specific situation on board.

La problématique de cette thèse est de comprendre et d’expliquer l’influence de l’activation des composantes périphérique efférente, expressive motrice et des sentiments subjectifs de l’émotion sur la formation des attitudes et des intentions comportementales du consommateur exposé à l’annonce. Cette recherche s’inscrit dans le modèle des processus composants de l’émotion développé en neurosciences affectives. Pour tester nos hypothèses, nous avons réalisé une étude selon laquelle les épisodes émotionnels du consommateur résultent de l’évaluation cognitive et dynamique des évènements mis en scène dans l’annonce. Notre protocole expérimental est fondé sur la mesure verbale des sentiments subjectifs et sur la mesure de l’activité électrophysiologique du système nerveux autonome et du système nerveux somatique des participants exposés à 6 annonces publicitaires télévisées (3 annonces commerciales / 3 annonces sociales). Les résultats obtenus montrent que l’exposition à l’annonce suscite chez le consommateur une activation des composantes périphérique efférente, expressive motrice et des sentiments subjectifs de l’émotion. La prise en compte de l’activation de ces trois composantes permet alors d’expliquer la formation de l’attitude envers l’annonce, de l’attitude envers la marque et des intentions comportementales du consommateur. Les résultats indiquent également que les annonces ne suscitent pas systématiquement des épisodes émotionnels chez les consommateurs ; c’est la présence d’évènements pertinents dans l’annonce pour un consommateur qui déclenche un processus d’évaluation cognitif à l’origine des épisodes émotionnels / The issue of this thesis is to understand and explain the influence of the activation of peripheral efference, motor expression, and subjective feeling components on the behavioural and attitude intentions of the consumer exposed to advertising. This research belongs to the components process model which is part of the developed emotion in affective neurosciences. To test our hypotheses, we have carried out a study where the emotional episodes of the consumer result from the cognitive appraisal of salient events highlighted in the advertising. Our experimental protocol is based on the verbal measure of subjective feelings and on the measure of the electrophysiological activity of the autonomous nervous system and also the somatic nervous system of the participants exposed to six television commercials (three commercial ads/ three social ads). The achieved results show that the exposure to advertising reveals in the consumer an activation of the peripheral efference, motor expression, and subjective feeling components of emotion. The awareness of the activation of those three components leads then to explain the attitude formation towards the advertising and towards the brand as well as behavioural intentions of the consumer. The results illustrate as well that the advertising do not systematically awake emotional episodes among the consumers; it is the presence of salient events in the advertising for a consumer that triggers a cognitive appraisal process to the origin of the emotional episodes

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