Thesis (Ph. D.)--New School University, 2002. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 291-302).

Ο προσδιορισμός του προφίλ των καταναλωτών ομοιοπαθητικών φαρμάκων και φυτικών καλλυντικών. Να προσδιορίσουμε ειδικότερα τα δημογραφικά και ψυχογραφικά χαρακτηριστικά τους, όπως το φύλο τους, την ηλικία τους, την οικογενειακή τους κατάσταση, το επάγγελμά τους, την αγοραστική τους συμπεριφορά, την κουλτούρα τους, την προσωπικότητά τους, να εντοπίσουμε τις ομάδες αναφοράς τους και να διαπιστώσουμε ποιοος ο βαθμός ικανοποιήσής τους από τη χρήση αυτών των προϊόντων. / The determination of the profile of consumers of homeopathic medicines and herbal cosmetics.More particularly to identify demographic and psychographic characteristics such as gender,age, marital status, profession, their purchasing behavior, their culture, their personality, to identify the reference groups and to ascertain what is the degree of satisfaction with the use of these products.

Orientador: Jean Leandro dos Santos / Coorientador: Marcos Antonio Corrêa / Banca: José Ricardo Soares de Oliveira / Banca: Isabele Rodrigues Nascimento / Banca: Vera Lucia Borges Isaac / Banca: Chung Man Chin / Resumo: O desenvolvimento do câncer de pele e o fotoenvelhecimento estão diretamente associados à exposição dos indivíduos à radiação ultravioleta (UV) de modo excessivo e sem a proteção adequada. Os filtros solares são conhecidamente capazes de proteger a pele contra os efeitos nocivos dessa radiação. Apesar disso, os filtros solares ainda apresentam limitações justificando a pesquisa de substâncias mais efetivas e seguras. Este trabalho teve como objetivo o planejamento, a síntese e a avaliação de novos filtros com capacidade ampliada de proteção contra as radiações UVA e UVB, associado a propriedades antioxidantes, obtidos através da estratégia de triplicação molecular tendo como protótipo as moléculas do resveratrol e ethylhexyl triazone. Foram sintetizados, isolados e caracterizados oito substâncias inéditas (FSN-1 a FSN-8). Todas as substâncias fundiram em temperaturas acima de 218°C, significativamente superior ao padrão ethylhexyl triazone (119,99°C), sendo FSN-2 e FSN-7 as substâncias que apresentaram menor e maior temperatura de decomposição, respectivamente (FSN-2: 236,25°C; FSN-7: 326,22°C). Todas as substâncias apresentaram atividade antioxidante, sendo a substância FSN-8 a mais ativa em relação às demais substâncias sintetizadas e aos padrões de resveratrol e ethylhexyl triazone. Embora todas as substâncias tenham comprimento de onda máximo na região espectral UVB, os resultados obtidos no ensaio in vitro de atividade fotoprotetora demonstraram capacidade protetora tamb... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo) / Abstract: The development of skin cancer and photoaging are directly associated with exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation without adequate protection. Sunscreens are known to be able to protect the skin against the harmful effects of such radiation. Despite this, sunscreen still exhibits limitations justifying the research for more effective and safe compounds. The aim of this work was design, synthesize and evaluate new sunscreens possessing wide protection against UVA and UVB, associated with antioxidant properties, obtained through molecular triplication strategy, using resveratrol and ethylhexyl triazone as prototype molecules. Eight novel substances (FSN-1 - FSN-8) were synthesized, isolated and characterized. All synthesized substances melted at temperatures above 218°C, significantly higher than ethylhexyl triazone (119.99°C). FSN-2 and FSN-7 presented, respectively, the lowest and the highest decomposition temperatures (FSN-2: 236,25°C; FSN-7: 326,22°C). All synthesized substances have exhibited antioxidant effect and FSN-8 has exhibited antioxidant effect superior than resveratrol, ethylhexyl triazone and the other substances. All synthesized substances exhibited maximum wavelength at UVB spectral region, and they also showed a protective activity against UVA radiation in photoprotection in vitro assay. FSN-3 was the most active susncreen (SPF 17; UVAPF 13). FSN-7 (SPF 14, UVAPF 7) and FSN-1 (SPF 9; UVAPF 5) also should be highlighted, presenting more photoprotection ability than resveratrol (SPF 2 and UVAPF 2) and ethylhexyltriazone (SPF 3 and UVAPF 3). All these results allowed the identification of new sunscreens with wide spectra against UV radiation useful to prevent skin cancer and photoaging. / Doutor

Orientador: Vera Lucia Borges Isaac / Banca: Marcos Antonio Correa / Banca: Gislaine Ricci Leonarodo / Resumo: Cosméticos são usados pelo homem desde a antiguidade e o consumo desse segmento vem aumentando a cada ano, praticamente imune a crises. O Brasil é o quarto maior mercado de cosméticos no mundo, ficando atrás apenas dos Estados Unidos, China e Japão, segundo dados da Associação Brasileira de Higiene Pessoal, Perfumaria e Cosméticos. Dentre as matérias primas que mais causam reações alérgicas estão os conservantes, corantes e composições aromáticas. Assim sendo, a preocupação com a segurança dos conservantes cosméticos deve ser intensificada. Grande importância é dada ao assunto atualmente, existindo a preocupação com o potencial de irritação e toxicidade para o consumidor e não apenas com o aspecto microbiológico. Desta forma, o presente trabalho teve por objetivo avaliar a citotoxicidade e potencial de irritação de conservantes antimicrobianos que são utilizados em cosméticos. Foram realizados ensaios de citotoxicidade, através do método MTT, em células de fibroblastos humano (HDFa), células de queratinócitos humano (HaCaT) e células de carcinoma hepatocelular humano (HepG2) e potencial de irritação em ovos embrionados de galinha através do método HET-CAM. Foram utilizados os conservantes: fenoxietanol, mistura de fenoxietanol e metilisotiazolinona (Fenox/Mit), mistura de metilcloroisotiazolinona e metilisotiazolinona (CMit/Mit), metilparabeno e propilparabeno, que são amplamente utilizados em cosméticos. Os conservantes mais citotóxicos e com maior pontuação de irritação (PI... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo)... / Abstract: Cosmetics have been used by man since antiquity and the consumption of this segment has been increasing every year, practically immune to crises. Brazil is the fourth largest cosmetics market in the world, behind only the United States, China and Japan, according to data from the Brazilian Association of Personal Hygiene, Perfumery and Cosmetics. Among the raw materials that most cause allergic reactions are preservatives, dyes and aromatic compositions. Therefore, concern about the safety of cosmetic preservatives should be intensified. Great importance is given to the subject nowadays, there being concern about the potential for irritation and toxicity to the consumer and not just with the microbiological aspect. Thus, the present work aimed to evaluate the cytotoxicity and irritation potential of antimicrobial preservatives that are used in cosmetics. Cytotoxicity were assessed by MTT assay method using human fibroblast cells (HDFa), human keratinocytes cells (HaCaT) and using human hepatoma cells (HepG2) and irritation potential in embryonated chicken eggs using the HET-CAM method. Preservatives were used: phenoxyethanol, a mixture of phenoxyethanol and methylisothiazolinone (Fenox/Mit), a mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (CMit / Mit), methylparaben and propylparaben, which are widely used in cosmetics. The most cytotoxic and highest irritation score (IS) preservatives considered irritants, were: phenoxyethanol (HaCat IC50: 0,237 mg/mL; HDFa IC50: 0,200 mg/mL; HepG2 IC50: 0,248 mg/mL; IS: 16) and Fenox/Mit (HaCat IC50: 0,156 mg/mL; HDFa IC50: ~0,056 mg/mL; HepG2 IC50: 0,119 mg/mL; IS: 10). The other preservatives, CMit/Mit (HaCat: non-toxic; HDFa: non-toxic; HepG2: >0,0045 mg/mL), propylparaben (HaCat IC50: ~0,200 mg/mL; HDFa IC50: >0,200 mg/mL; HepG2: >0,400 mg/mL)... (Complete abstract click electronic access below) / Mestre

Le but de ce travail a été d’étudier l’influence d’un certain nombre de composés actifs de nature différente sur les microorganismes commensaux de la peau humaine et des microorganismes proches en s’intéressant tout particulièrement à la formation de biofilms mono-espèces et binaires par ces microorganismes, afin d’étudier les mécanismes d’action de ces composés, et de chercher à définir la structure de la matrice de ces biofilms (travail réalisé sur la souche acnéique cutanée Cutibacterium acnes RT5) ; 1 ; Pour la première fois, il a été montré que l’antibiotique azithromycine dans les concentrations subunhibitrices stimule la croissance des biofilms de la souche saprophyte de P. chlororaphis 446, et que le système de détection du quorum sensing AHL-dépendant participe à ce processus. La stimulation de la croissance des biofilms par l’azithromycine s’expliquerait par la synthèse de polysaccharides de matrice, conduisant à une résistance accrue au choc thermique des biofilms. 2. L’effet inhibiteur de l’agent authelminthique niclosamide sur la croissance des cultures planctoniques et des biofilms de S. aureus, M luteus C01 et K. schroeteri H01 a été découvert. 3. Il a été montré que l’UTX ™ et le PS291 ® utilisés en cosmétique suppriment significativement la croissance des biofilms S. aureus MFP03 et de C. acnes, sans effet toxique. L’UTW déplace la balance des bactéries viables vers S. epidermidis MFP04 dans un biofilm binaire de S. aureus MFP03 et de S epidermidis MFP04. Dans les biofilms binaires de S. aureus MFP03 et de C. acnes RT5, les deux composés équilibrent la balance en faveur de C. acnes RT5. 4. Un effet des NUPs (ANF et CNP a été montré pour la première fois sur S. aureus, S epidermidis et C. acnes. Une dépendance vis-à-vis des conditions de culture de l’effet des NUPs sur la croissance des biofilms de ces microorganismes a été démontrée. 5. Une technique pour isoler la matrice des biofilms des bactéries à Gram positif a été développée. Il a été démontré que les composants dominants de la matrice des biofilms de C. acnes RT5 sont les polysaccharides. 6. Pour la première fois, une étude approfondie du protéome total de la matrice de C. acnes RT5 a été réalisée. La présence de plus de 400 protéines dans la matrice, la présence d’un grand nombre d’hydrolases, spécifiques de divers substrats, et d’autres enzymes qui fournissent un potentiel catalytique élevé à la matrice des biofilms de C. acnes RT5 ont été découverts. 7. L’analyse SERS de la biomasse et de la matrice des biofilms de C. acnes RT5 a été réalisée pour la première fois, le profil spectral des cellules et de la matrice de C. acnes RT5 ont été compilés, ce qui permettra de l’utiliser pour créer une base de données de spectres SERS. / Résumé en anglais non fourni.

abstract: Ecolabels are the main driving force of consumer knowledge in the realm of sustainable product purchasing. While ecolabels strive to improve consumer's purchasing decisions, they have overwhelmed the market, leaving consumers confused and distrustful of what each label means. This study attempts to validate and understand environmental concerns commonly found in ecolabel criteria and the implications they have within the life cycle of a product. A life cycle assessment (LCA) case study of cosmetic products is used in comparison with current ecolabel program criteria to assess whether or not ecolabels are effectively driving environmental improvements in high impact areas throughout the life cycle of a product. Focus is placed on determining the general issues addressed by ecolabelling criteria and how these issues relate to hotspots derived through a practiced scientific methodology. Through this analysis, it was determined that a majority the top performing supply chain environmental impacts are covered, in some fashion, within ecolabelling criteria, but some, such as agricultural land occupation, are covered to a lesser extent or not at all. Additional criteria are suggested to fill the gaps found in ecolabelling programs and better address the environmental impacts most pertinent to the supply chain. Ecolabels have also been found to have a broader coverage then what can currently be addressed using LCA. The results of this analysis have led to a set of recommendations for furthering the integration between ecolabels and life cycle tools. / Dissertation/Thesis / M.S. Civil and Environmental Engineering 2012

Magister Scientiae - MSc / Various dermatological disorders, such as formation of black pigmented patches on the surface of the skin arise from the over-activity of tyrosinase enzyme's degenerative action. This enzyme is further implicated in the involvement of melanin in malignant melanoma, the most lifethreatening skin tumors. Although, synthetic products were found effective to combat this menace, nevertheless, overtime detrimental effect on human skin is a challenge. Investigation of natural tyrosinase inhibitors from methanol extracts of medicinal plants of Lamiaceae family using L-tyrosine as substrate on three different complementary assays (TLC bio-autography, spectrophotometry and cyclic voltammetry) was carried out accordingly. The result indicated Salvia chamelaeagnea, Salvia dolomitica, Plectranthus ecklonii, Plectranthus namaensis, and Plectranthus zuluensis, with significant zone of inhibition against tyrosinase on TLC bio-autography, spectrophotometry result showed that extracts of Plectranthus ecklonii (IC50 = 21.58 μg/mL), Plectranthus zuluensis (IC50 = 23.99 μg/mL), Plectranthus madagascariensis (IC50 = 23.99 μg/mL) and Salvia lanceolata (IC50 = 28.83) demonstrated good anti-tyrosinase activity when compared with kojic acid (IC50 = 3.607 μg/mL). On the other hand, cyclic voltammetry are in consonant with above results thereby supported the nomination of some of the extracts as strong anti-tyrosinase agents. Salvia chamelaeagnea showed strong activity in cyclic voltammetry and clear zone of inhibition on TLC bioautography, these reasons gave us justification for further chemical study to isolate the bioactive constituents. Phytochemical investigation of the bioactive extract of Salvia chamelaeagnea using different chromatographic methods including column chromatographic and semi preparative HPLC afforded six (6) known compounds viz carsonol (C1), carnosic acid (C2), 7- ethoxylrosmanol (C3), ursolic acid (C4), rosmanol (C5) and ladanein (C6). Their chemical structures were elucidated by analyses of spectroscopic (1H and 13C NMR) data as well as correlations with existing literature. The methanolic extract of S. chamelaeagnea (SC) showed moderate antityrosinase (IC50 = 267.4 μg/mL) activity, total antioxidant capacities measured as: Oxygen radicals absorbance capacity (ORAC; 14970 ± 5.16 μM TE/g), ferric-ion reducing antioxidant power (FRAP; 9869.43 ± 7.87 μM AAE/g) and trolox equivalent absorbance capacity (TEAC; 13706.5 ± 0.95 μM TE/g). Excellent total antioxidant capacities were demonstrated by C1 and C5 respectively as FRAP (9338.92 ± 1.72; 8622.73 ± 1.92) μM AAE/g; TEAC (16505 ± 0.86; 10641.5 ± 0.52) μM TE/g; ORAC (14550.5 ± 3.65; 14633.90 ± 3.84) μM TE/g and including the inhibition of Fe2+ -induced lipid peroxidation (IC50 = 32.5; 30.25) μg/mL. All the compounds except C4 are electro-active with well-defined oxidation-reduction peaks while C1 demonstrated the highest tyrosinase inhibitory activity by strongly decreased the inhibition current with time using cyclic voltammetry method. The isolated compounds especially C1, C2 and C5 are well known to combat with ageing problems and documented for their powerful activity against oxidative stress and alzheimer's diseases, which are ageing related symptoms. The isolation of such bioactive compounds indicated the synergetic effect of the results of the three methods used in this thesis. This is the first report on the evaluation of both anti-tyrosinase and total antioxidant capacities of the isolated compounds from S. chamelaeagnea. The findings therefore can be used as background information for exploitation of skin depigmentation and antioxidant agents from natural source.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-08-03T12:30:49Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Ana Paula.pdf: 784011 bytes, checksum: aeba0b74d8c1e247f14c4a0b21e957ea (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007-10-17 / The consumers of low income, pertaining to classes C, D and E, represent 77% of the Brazilian population, a slice of market until then trifled with by the companies. After the Real Plan these consumers had increased its participation in the acquisition of products and services, and today they correspond approximately 45% of the Brazilian consumption. Aiming at to take care of to this great parcel of the population many companies they had started to develop products with inferior prices, but with trustworthy quality. The study he will investigate the marketing potential of these consumers and will have as main focus to present the strategies of communication developed by the companies of personal hygiene, would perfume and cosmetics, whose products are destined to the low income consumers. / Os consumidores de baixa renda pertencentes às classes C, D e E, representam 77% da população brasileira, uma fatia de mercado até então desvalorizadas pelas empresas. Após o Plano Real estes consumidores aumentaram sua participação na aquisição de produtos e serviços, e hoje correspondem a aproximadamente 45% do consumo brasileiro. Visando atender essa grande parcela da população muitas empresas passaram a desenvolver produtos com preços inferiores, mas com qualidade confiável. O estudo investigará o potencial mercadológico destes consumidores e terá como foco principal apresentar as estratégias de comunicação desenvolvidas pelas empresas de higiene pessoal, perfumaria e cosméticos, cujos produtos são destinados aos consumidores de baixa renda.

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Cosmetics and toiletries are items of frequent use for much of the Brazilian population, which is observed by strong economic growth that this sector has shown. Given the importance of this issue in a society in which the quest for beauty and longevity are remarkable features, it was decided to approach it from the perspective of chemical knowledge. In the development of this paper, came up to this issue of Chemistry topics developed in high school, and specifically the topic of Organic Functions was worked with a group of third year of high school in a public school located in the urban area of Santa Maria RS. To relate these everyday items to the chemical knowledge, it was used the teaching methodology of the three pedagogical moments, in which different approaches were used, such as questionnaires, experimental activities, reports, videos, games and group work. The present results show that many students express interest in learning more about this class of products, and note that, associating the experiences of students to the curriculum components is presented as a way of facilitating construction of knowledge. We can also point to the importance of this issue for a teaching of Chemistry that considers the contexts in which it occurs. In addition to the approach in the school context were also carried out activities with teachers in training, promoting discussion of this subject linked to their possibilities facing the teaching of Chemistry. From the results found it is possible to emphasize the relevance of the theme chosen to develop and discuss aspects of chemicals against the diversity of the public education environment. / Cosméticos e produtos de higiene pessoal são itens de consumo frequente por boa parte da população brasileira, o que se observa pelo acentuado crescimento econômico que este setor tem apresentado. Diante da relevância deste tema frente a uma sociedade em que a busca pela beleza e longevidade são características marcantes, optou-se em abordá-lo através da perspectiva do conhecimento químico. No desenvolvimento deste trabalho aproximou-se esta temática de tópicos de Química desenvolvidos no Ensino Médio, e especificamente o tópico de Funções Orgânicas foi trabalhado com uma turma de terceiro ano do Ensino Médio em uma escola pública, localizada na zona urbana do município de Santa Maria-RS. Para relacionar esses itens de uso diário ao conhecimento químico utilizou-se a metodologia de ensino dos Três Momentos Pedagógicos, em que diferentes abordagens foram utilizadas, como aplicação de questionários, atividades experimentais, reportagens, vídeos, jogo e trabalhos em grupo. Os resultados deste trabalho apontam que muitos estudantes demonstram interesse em conhecer melhor esta classe de produtos, e nota-se que, associar as vivências dos alunos aos componentes curriculares apresenta-se como meio facilitador da construção do conhecimento. É possível apontar também a importância desta temática para um ensino de Química que considere os contextos nos quais ocorre. Além da abordagem no contexto escolar também foram realizadas atividades junto a professores em formação, promovendo a discussão deste tema vinculado às suas possibilidades frente ao ensino de Química. A partir dos resultados encontrados é possível destacar a relevância do tema escolhido para desenvolver e discutir aspectos químicos frente a diversos públicos do meio educacional.

The predominating theories on non-product-related attributes stretch only so far to explain why some brands do not manage to succeed on foreign markets where the product needs are essentially similar to their domestic markets. Therefore, the aim of this paper is to cast new light on the theoretical field of non-product-related attributes, by unveiling which non-product- related attributes affect consumer brand preferences on similar markets. This is done by studying consumer expectations on cosmetics brands in general and brand attitudes towards a Finnish cosmetics brand, on the Swedish market. The results suggest that most of the non-product-related attributes that are covered by predominating theories are still relevant for the formation of consumer preferences, but that new important attributes have also emerged. It was also found that the level of importance varies from attribute to attribute, and that some factors affect consumer preferences more than others. The findings serve as a basis for re-evaluating and expanding the theory of non-product- related attributes, and can help brands to succeed on similar markets.