Through this research, I examine how new, natural, socially and environmentally sustainable materials for western couture millinery may be sourced from a group of marginalized women in south-eastern Uganda, underlining the continued relevance of craft as a mode of production that is both flexible and inclusive. Post-colonial, western perceptions of ‘African’ aesthetics are deconstructed and reconstructed through plaited, palm leaf braids that reflect the irregular surface texture found in traditional African artefacts. These create both a metaphorical and visual ‘pidgin’ language that holds meaning for craftspeople in the developed world as well as for the makers. In the process, questions have been asked about western requirements for product uniformity and how the ‘hand of the maker’ - as signified by irregularity – may be positioned in the markets of industrialized and post-industrialized societies. By creating a product with the potential for longevity and versatility, I have attempted to minimize some problems inherent in sourcing from small-scale craft development projects. The research has been practice-led and is supported by this written dissertation. My own craft practice as a millinery designer and field trips to Uganda - in order to establish a working relationship with the makers, understand their circumstances and to develop the Pidgin Plaits - has been at the core of a process of exchange. Cultural and industrial networks have also been developed in Uganda that may support the longer-term sustainability of the project. Through my research, I identify the considerations confronting the designer seeking to establish such a project and explore the multiple social, cultural and economic factors that impact upon the makers in Uganda,in a project with the potential to transform lives and cultures.

No description available.

My thesis examines how identity was constructed in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century amidst the growing possibilities of the cross-cultural transfer of ideas and products by analysing case studies of women-owned and -operated craft organisations: Limerick Lace and Clare Embroidery (Ireland) and the Deerfield Society of Blue and White Needlework (United States). I contend that the increased accessibility of print culture, travel and tourism, and World’s Fairs enabled the women responsible for these craft organisations to integrate a pastiche of artistic influences – those recognised as international, national, and local – in order to create a specific and distinct style of craft. The Arts and Crafts movement, with its ideas about art, craft, design, and display, provided a supra-national language of social and artistic reform that sought to address the harshness of industrialisation and to elevate the status of craft and design. The national framework of revival movements – the Celtic Revival in Ireland and Colonial Revival in the United States – promoted the notion that Folk and peasant culture was fundamental to each country’s heritage, and its preservation and renewal was essential to fostering and legitimising a strong national identity. I critically access the way these case studies, which were geographically separate yet linked through chronology, gender, and craft, operated within these international and national movements, yet they negotiated these larger ideologies to construct identities that also reflected their local circumstances. My intention is to unite social history with material culture in order to investigate the ways in which the discussion and display of the crafts, and the artistic components of the textiles themselves operated as a vehicle for establishing identity. / Thesis (Master, Art History) -- Queen's University, 2007-09-05 23:54:49.895

Commissioned in 1865 for London’s South Kensington Museum (now the V&A), the Green Dining Room was conceived during an exciting period in Victorian Britain, when idealistic artists and architects elevated the status of the decorative arts in fine art circles, promoted the ideal of joy in labour, and sought beauty in the everyday. The Green Dining Room is considered a quintessential example of an early decorative scheme by Morris, Marshall, Faulkner & Co., a collective of artists who helped to inspire Britain’s Arts and Crafts movement through their products and their principles of art manufacture. It is adjoined by two other refreshment areas: one designed by James Gamble (a salaried employee of the museum) and the other by Edward Poynter (a promising young painter with an affinity for the decorative arts). The three rooms manifest varied, even conflicting, opinions on the cultivation of design. They indicate how different design professionals hoped to see their art progress. However, the rooms were not simply artistic statements. They were also functioning dining areas for the use of guests and employees of the museum. By assessing the aims of the South Kensington administration, the ambitions of the designers who contributed to the museum’s fabric, and the impressions of Victorians who witnessed the results, I will illustrate how the Green Dining Room occupies a unique position in the history of nineteenth-century design reform. / Thesis (Ph.D, Art History) -- Queen's University, 2008-09-07 21:35:05.076

The oxidation reaction mechanisms of water soluble textile dyes amaranth (an azo dye), brilliant blue-R (a triaryl dye) and safranine-O (an azine dye) with oxidants- hypochlorite and chlorine dioxide, were investigated. The detailed kinetics of the reactions of the three dyes was studied under excess concentrations of the oxidant and other reagents. The depletion of concentration of the chosen dye, taken at low concentration was monitored using a Hi-Tech SF-61 DX2 double mixing micro volume stopped-flow apparatus. The hypochlorite initiated oxidations were investigated as function of varying concentration of oxidant and hydrogen ion, ionic strength and temperature. For the chosen dyes and reaction conditions, the depletion of dye followed pseudo first-order kinetics and the rate constants were estimated using KinetAsystTM software. All the three reactions had first-order dependence on the oxidant concentration, and the reaction rates increased by varied extent with increase in [H+]0. The role of acid in their reaction mechanisms was established. The kinetic data was analysed to evaluate the rate constants for the competitive pathways initiated by hypochlorite ion and hypochlorous acid. The overall second-order rate coefficients for the OCl- and HOCl initiated reactions were estimated for all the three reactions. Major oxidation products for the reactions were separated and characterized by 1H NMR and 13C NMR and GC-MS techniques and the stoichiometry was established. The energy parameters inclusive of Arrhenius factor, enthalpy, entropy and energy of activations for the oxidation of three dyes both by OCl- and HOCl species were estimated. Based on the experimental findings, the probable rate laws, mechanisms and reaction schemes were described. Simulations studies were conducted to validate the proposed mechanisms using SIMKINE2 computer programme. The rate of oxidation of safranine-O is greater than that of amaranth and brilliant blue-R with OCl- / HOCl reaction. Following similar protocol, the oxidations of the chosen dyes with chlorine dioxide were investigated by monitoring the depletion kinetics of dye as function of varying concentration of ClO2 and OH- ion, ionic strength and temperature. All the three dyes, exhibited pseudo first-order kinetics and the rate constants were estimated using KinetAsystTM software. All the three reactions had first-order dependence on the oxidant concentration at pH conditions 7.0, 8.0 and 9.0 suggesting that reaction mechanism remains unaltered with pH variation. The effect of hydroxide ion on the reaction rate revealed that it acts as catalyst. All the three reactions had first-order dependence on [OH-]0, when its concentration was low; but the order with respect to [OH-] decreased as [OH-] increased stoichiometry proportion to reactants. The catalytic constant for hydroxide catalysed reaction was estimated for all the three reactions. Kinetic salt effect experiments were conducted to identify the possible reaction species involved in the reactions. The major reaction products were characterized by 1H NMR, 13C NMR and GC-MS techniques. The stoichiometry ratios were established and energy parameters were estimated. The rate laws and probable reaction mechanisms were proposed and appropriate reaction schemes for all the reactions were described. The elucidated mechanisms were confirmed by simulation studies using SIMKINE2 software. At neutral pH the rate of oxidation of amaranth is greater than safranine-O and brilliant blue-R, and brilliant blue R being the slowest. / Thesis (Ph.D.)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Westville, 2010.

There is no abstract available for this thesis.

The purpose of the study was to present the differences between the opinions of prospective teachers and experienced, certified teachers concerning the relationship of the cognitive and affective dimensions to teacher evaluation. Comparisons were made with the total prospective-teacher responses and total established-teacher responses; elementary prospectiveteacher responses and elementary established-teacher responses; secondary prospective-teacher responses and secondary established-teacher responses; male prospective-teacher responses and male established-teacher responses; female prospective-teacher responses and female established-teacher responses; total male responses and total female responses; total prospective-teacher responses and responses of established teachers with three to nine years of experience; total prospective-teacher responses and responses of established teachers with ten or more years of experience.The study was limited to the prospective teachers enrolled in student teaching during the spring quarter, 1971, at Ball State University, Muncie, Indiana. It was further limitedin that only those experienced and certified educators teaching in schools which held membership in the Upper Wabash Valley School Study Council in Indiana were utilized.The population for the study was composed of 187 randomly-selected elementary and secondary student teachers from Ball State University and 200 randomly-selected elementary and secondary established teachers teaching in schools within the Upper Wabash Valley School Study Council.The instrument for the study was developed, based upon the review of literature, the opinions of selected established teachers, as well as the judgments from faculty in the Teachers College, Ball State University. An opinionnaire-questionnaire composed of predominantly cognitive and affective statements was then constructed.Sixteen null hypotheses were developed. Two-by-two contingency tables were constructed to enumerate the "yes"-"no" responses of the two groups to the affective and cognitive statements. Chi square was then applied to test the degree of significance between the responses of the prospective-teacher group and the established-teacher group.The results of the study can be generalized in that similarities do exist between prospective teachers and established teachers in their responses to predominantly cognitive teacher evaluation statements. Again generalized, the similarities do not exist between prospective teachers and established teachers in their responses to predominantly affective teacher evaluation statements.

Exegesis (MA--Art and Design) -- AUT University, 2007. / Includes bibliographical references. Also held in print (67 leaves : col. ill. ; 21 x 30 cm.) in City Campus Collection (T 709.93 CLA)

Exegesis (MA--Art and Design) -- AUT University, 2007. / Includes disk "A Fine romance". Includes bibliographical references. Also held in print (50 leaves : col. ill. ; 30 cm + 1 disk (3 3/4 in.)) in City Campus Collection (T 709.05 STA )

Thesis (M.F.A.)--Rochester Institute of Technology, 1982. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references.