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This project investigates laser cutting in relation to textile manipulation and creating three-dimensional form. More precisely, this collection of nine outfits becomes an exploration about expressions of laser cut lines and their interrelation to the body through folding and draping the textile material. The laser cut bridge line used, will be the guiding part for a garments construction and through this different shapes are tested. This way of working with the material, its character and added manipulation will propose a new understanding of and an alternative for constructing a garment. This investigation is also a proposal for a new mind-set when it comes to using laser cutting in fashion design. Laser cutting has mainly been regarded as a technique for decoration, yet the machine could have a much greater role in the design process. Textile manipulation in this work is seen not only as a surface decoration but as a method of creating a 3D form from a 2D material which in this case is a method of design for shaping a garment. Through this, the work will hopefully challenge the industry in terms of working with laser cutting, garment construction and also textile manipulation.

Fibre reinforced polymer matrix composites are used frequently in aerospace applications. Manufacturers of aerospace components favour composites over traditional metallic alloys due to their light weight, high modulus, corrosion resistance and fatigue resistance. Advantages of composites for non-structural interior components over metallic include: ease of manufacturing for single parts of complex geometry as opposed to assemblies, cheaper manufacturing of a limited series of parts and composites greatly reduced noise, vibration and harshness. However, manufacturing interior composite components requires critical attention to detail during the preforming stages and handling of dry fabric textiles. Since these components are handmade they often yield lower profits and therefore efficient preforming is critical. Designing draping strategies for industrial liquid composite moulding processes requires a significant amount of time and testing, in simulation and also working on physical moulds. Mould and part surfaces are often defined by a number of geometric features, labelled base surfaces in the context of this thesis, which can be used to quickly probe multiple draping strategies and identify the best one. Traditionally, trial and error work is performed over a full mould surface until a working or acceptable draping strategy is found, rarely identifying the best strategy. The work in this thesis presents the initial development stages for a draping predictive tool aimed at quickly probing multiple draping scenarios in simulation prior to receiving moulds and identifying the best draping strategy for industrial non-structural aerospace composites. A multi-parameter remodelling tool – the conical frustum – was developed for uniformly identifying base surfaces through 12 geometric parameters linked into a database of in-plane shear and yarn orientations results. The development of the database is discussed, detailing Taguchi methods of experimental design used for developing linear functions from the database results, which allow interpolation of results on base surfaces that do not directly exist within the database. This thesis also includes major developments for the core draping algorithm used for linking individual base surface results together when probing draping strategies. Further investigations were performed on unique elements of in-plane shear behaviour that are encountered during draping, so that these could ultimately be considered during the development of this version of the draping algorithm whilst others may be included in future developments.

Due to the complexity of designing advanced composite parts, many software tools have been developed to aid the designer and reduce design cycle time. Draping is one of those tools and is used to predict the fiber angles throughout the part. This application of draping is to simulate the actual hand layup process that a technician would go through while creating a multi-layered laminate composite part. This method is the first to use plies as an underlying surface for draping instead of just using an offset mold surface. This method can visualize full 3D ply geometry taking into account the thicknesses of the underlying plies and their drop-off regions which a designer could use to avoid superimposing ply drop-offs. Physical testing showed that this method predicts ply drop-off regions reasonably well and allows the designer to visualize the final shape of the laminate. The method also provides for re-ordering of the plies while keeping their cut-out shape the same because of its reverse-process draping technique. Three methods of draping were explored in order to find the best method. Multiple test parts were created with specific features that are difficult to drape. The method to drop fabric to the surface was the most versatile while a method published by Wang was the best for convex surfaces and superior to spread-type draping. No one method worked well for all surfaces.

Ce travail porte sur les processus de conception et de mise en forme des préformes textiles pour procédés de moulage en phase liquide (LCM), appliqués à la fabrication de pièces non structurales complexes. Les moules pour la fabrication de ces pièces composites ont une géométrie complexe et leur drapage est problématique. Fondamentalement, ce travail vise à prédire et à optimiser le processus de conception et de drapage des préformes. En outre, le travail vise à documenter et à améliorer 1) la sélection du tissu et de son orientation la plus appropriée pour le drapage d’une géométrie donnée et 2) la prédiction des temps de drapage. Les propriétés des renforts associées au drapage telles que le cisaillement, la flexion, la friction et la stabilité des tissus secs dépendent de la construction des tissus et de la géométrie complexe à draper. Le développement de patrons de découpe inclut la sélection de l’orientation des tissus et le positionnement des coupes et des joints. Malgré toute l’expérience industrielle liée au drapage des préformes, les processus existants pour le développement des patrons de découpe comportent une faible reproductibilité et deumeurent basés sur l’expérience de techniciens expérimentés. Avec la compétition en aérospatiale, le partenaire industriel Hutchinson doit développer des méthodes pour formaliser et quantifier la conception de patrons de découpe. Afin de décrire, formaliser et évaluer le drapage de différents tissus sur des géométries complexes, ce travail propose un premier outil prédictif du drapage permettant d’évaluer le temps de drapage, de permettre la sélection du tissus le plus approprié pour le drapage d’une géométrie, de déterminer l’orientation des fibres préférable ainsi que la position des coupes et des joints dans le patron de découpe. Ce travail inclut une caractérisation de 4 tissus secs utilisés en production chez Hutchinson. Des outils de caractérisation portatifs ont été développés afin de permettre l’évaluation rapide du cisaillement dans le plan, du retour élastique en cisaillement, du retour élastique en flexion dans un coin et sur les bords, de la friction entre les plis et avec le moule, de l’effilochement, ainsi que de la résistance des goupilles de localisation. Les essais de caractérisation ont été effectués sur ces équipements portatifs et certains ont été validés par comparaison avec des essais. À partir de ces caractéristiques de drapage, une méthode d’évaluation du comportement en drapage a été développée permettant de déterminer la façon dont un tissu donné se comporte lorsqu’il est drapé sur des géométries spécifiques. Plusieurs géométries de base ont été repérées sur les moules réels de Hutchinson, permettant la reconstruction d’autres moules par une combinaison de ces géométries de base. Le comportement en drapage pour chaque géométrie de base a été analysé et validé avec des essais expérimentaux directement sur les moules. Le travail de caractérisation et la méthode d’évaluation des géométries de base ont été combinés dans un algorithme empirique permettant d’évaluer la difficulté de drapage d’une géométrie complexe selon le tissu utilisé et son orientation. Des exemples montrent que l’algorithme réussit à atteindre les objectifs liés à l’évaluation des temps de drapage, de la sélection du tissu et de son orientation les plus appropriés en plus de guider le positionnement des coupes et des joints pour le développement des patrons de découpe. Les objectifs d’abaissement, de prédiction des temps de drapage et de détermination de l’emplacement des coupes et des joints dans les patrons ont été atteints.

The relationship between nostalgic associations and fundamental developments in design: lines and construction in commercial sportswear / Program: Master Programme in Fashion and Textile Design

An report about investigating the rectangular shape in the relation between the stiff and the soft in drapings. The investigation have been made in the field fashion and garments. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

This work is based on the results of my research regarding the human relationship to a home. It started with me thinking about that I have to move away from my home soon. Living here has been a slow gathering of things and furniture. As a result I have a home I feel completely safe in. This made me wonder what it is that I need to give me that feeling, the feeling of home. The aim of this work is to understand the relationship between home and bodyTo gain knowledge of the subject I have studied literature on the phenomenon of a home, how different from each other homes can be and how some people manage without having a home. Reading about these things made me realise how big the subject was. I found so much material that I could work with, but I felt as if I had gotten lost in my search for answers. Therefore I went back to the starting point- the feeling of home. To get some answers it made sense to me to try and portray that feeling of home on a body. This work is the result of me finding a home in clothing. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:28:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2006-01-31Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T20:57:41Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 souza_pm_me_bauru.pdf: 907859 bytes, checksum: b98682457254c5034fde8ac03ff92b52 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / A presente pesquisa verifica a eficiência da modelagem tridimensional, moulage, como instrumento de otimização do processo de desenvolvimento do produto de moda/vestuário. Para tanto, enfoca as etapas de criação e materialização nas quais a referida técnica encontra-se inserida, onde constata a dicotomia entre as áreas de criação e modelagem. Aborda as qualidades técnicas, construtivas, ergonômicas e estéticas envolvidas no projeto da modelagem do produto, enfatizando os aspectos de conforto, caimento e inovação formal. De abordagem qualitativa, tem seus dados coletados por meio de observações sistemáticas, no âmbito acadêmico, numa variedade de situações-problemas, em momentos diversos, com variadas fontes de informação - cenários criados para reproduzir, considerando as devidas proporções e especificidades - situações industriais análogas. Estabelece as seguintes linhas guias de observação: criar e materializar; materializar a criação do outro; a criação constitui-se na própria materialização. Indicadores previstos na estruturação da pesquisa - adequação dimensional, vestibilidade, inovação formal, tempo, retrabalho, consumo de matéria-prima, soluções de montagem - conduzem aos resultados, numa comparação dos dados obtidos quando a técnica da modelagem tridimensional encontra-se ou não inserida no processo de desenvolvimento do produto de moda. É constatada a eficiência da técnica no processo. / The purpose of this research is to verify the efficiency of the three-dimensional modeling, draping, as a way to achieve a better development of the fashion/clothing products. For that, it focus the creation and the materialization steps, in which the draping technique is found, where is found a dichotomy between the creation and the modeling areas. It also approaches the technical, constructive, ergonomic and esthetic qualities involved on the modeling project, emphasizing the comfort, adjustment and innovation of the shape. This qualitative research got the data collection by methodological academic observation, with a variety of problem situations, in different moments with distinctive information sources - created reproduction scenes, considering the propositions and specialties - such as industrial situations. It establishes the following observation guide: to create and materialize; to materialize the other s creation; the creation constitutes in the materialization itself. The indicators used in this research are the dimensional fitness, adjustment, innovation of the shape, time, rework, material raw, assembling solutions. They conduct to the findings, comparing obtained data when the three-dimensional modeling is found in development of the fashion/clothing products and it proves the efficiency of the technique in the process.

This work is an exploration of design possibilities within draping based on a knot. This to show alternative possibilities and expressions through the knot in construction of clothing. The knot serves as a draping tool, has a function in each garment and is also decorative. The result is performed in 7 outfits based on experiments draped on a mannequin or my own body. The experiments are developed mainly through the branching strategy (Jones 1992)achieved with draping sessions in different materials, sizes and placements of the knot. Having the knot as starting point allows alternative expressions in construction of well known garments. It is also suggesting a method of closing a piece of clothing using the garment itself which could be developed further in 2D pattern construction.