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<p> This thesis addresses the inherent tensions in discourses of sustainable fashion and explores how several individuals in the fashion industry attempt to reconcile these issues. In addition, it looks at the role of discourse in the socialization of ethical perspectives. The study draws on theoretical and methodological perspectives from linguistic and cultural anthropology, sociology, as well as fashion theory to analyze how fashion industry professionals discursively negotiate notions of sustainability and the tensions that emerge between ideals and practices. Data collection for this thesis included semi-structured interviews with fashion professionals in Southern California, along with participant observation within a university-level fashion textile course. Documenting socialization practices and noting the varying discourses of sustainable fashion in use by industry professionals highlight the challenges designers face in bridging eco-sensibilities with design aesthetics, and the complexity of individual agency in being able to participate in the culture of sustainability. The theoretical framework of this thesis demonstrates how linguistic anthropology can contribute to studies of sustainability in fashion design, and, in particular, how language use can be analyzed to better understand the ways in which a new generation can be socialized to new or changing ideas and perspectives.</p>

<p> In mid-nineteenth-century Paris those associated with the intellectual and artistic sectors used distinction in dress as a defining characteristic in the creation of their social image and identity. With the growing bourgeois masses due to the vast expansion and modernization of the city, distinction became the way in which one could separate from the crowd to emerge as an individual. This notion grew out of two specific factions: the awareness of dress as an outward reflection of the self, and the newly developed medium of photography as a tool for capturing one&rsquo;s likeness. This thesis will trace the utilization of these concepts by examining Nadar&rsquo;s portraits of Charles Baudelaire, Th&eacute;ophile Gautier, and Sarah Bernhardt, as well as Countess de Castiglione&rsquo;s collaborative portrait work with the photographer Pierre-Louise Pierson. </p><p> Baudelaire and Gautier, both prolific poets and art critics, were some of the first to bring about critical discourse on the distinction of clothing, as well as the importance of inserting modern dress into art. Both men implemented these methods when making their individual choices for representation, with Gautier often presenting himself far outside the sartorial norm. While most women of Parisian society abided by strict moral rules of dressing, Bernhardt and Castiglione instead challenged these norms and used dress to represent themselves as individuals apart from family or a husband. More than solely focusing on everyday dress, this thesis will concentrate on the utilization of distinction in their public image captured through photography.</p>

The purpose of this research is to investigate the power and postcolonial meanings of lingerie for urban Indian professional women (UIPW) living in India to better understand the consumer behaviour of lingerie consumption. This critical marketing studies thesis adds to the existing studies of lingerie to argue that little is understood about the social meanings behind the growth in lingerie in India. It analyses the ways in which lingerie is instrumental to how urban Indian women sartorially negotiate colonial and national tensions of sexual identity. An interdisciplinary conceptual framework utilising Foucauldian power and an original application of Saidian orientalism are used to critique lingerie advertising practices in India and its implications for developing the discourse of cross-cultural consumer behaviour for postcolonial contexts. An interdisciplinary, interpretive, qualitative, mixed methods case study approach was undertaken in the urban Indian cities of Delhi and Bombay between the periods 2010 – 2014. The research design consisted of: a content analysis of lingerie advertising in the magazines Vogue India and Femina between the post-media-liberalisation years 2003 to 2014; visual and textual analysis of lingerie in three selective Indian films; 106 semistructured surveys conducted amongst UIPW in the urban cities of Delhi and Bombay; two focus groups in Bombay and Delhi and fifteen in-depth interviews. Data analysis included SPSS analysis and discourse analysis. Findings reveal the contradictory ways in which female sartorial identity in India is caught up in competing postcolonial forces of control and resistance demarcated along the lines of cultural, social and economic capital, therefore differing from existing western studies of lingerie. Findings show current global marketing practices still operate within western marketing frameworks, perpetuating social inequalities and are failing to be congruent with multiple and alternative feminine identities. Findings empirically reinforce the importance of postcolonial theory for original socio-cultural consumer behaviour insight and the development of global marketing strategy.

Summary in Chinese. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong. / Bibliography: leaves 130-131.

Social media have altered the communication landscape and significantly impacted on marketing communication. Research suggests that with the rise of social media, marketing communication has been democratised, and the power has shifted from those in marketing to the individuals and communities that create and consume content on social media and redistribute it across a variety of channels. Yet the implications of social media are still largely unknown among practitioners and managers. Interest in the use of social media in marketing is growing. In particular with the recent special issues on social media published by marketing journals, the body of research is rapidly developing. But despite the growing interest, there are no specific theories that focus on social-media marketing in the fashion industry, and limited empirical research exists on the implications of social media in the fashion sector overall. Research in this area has the potential to inform both further study and practice in relation to the use of social media in fashion-marketing communications. This study explores the development, implications and impact of social media as a part of marketing communications in the fashion industry through case studies and key-informant interviews. In particular, the aim is to build an empirically grounded framework that enables the understanding, explanation and description of the process of building a social-media strategy. The findings arising from this research can help practitioners and managers to make sense of the social-media environment and better understand how to design social-media activities and effectively use social media in marketing communications. As the field is emerging, the methodologies, theories and their application are likely to evolve considerably.

Critical literature on surfing is concerned primarily with its development as a competitive sport, focusing on ‘stand-up’ surfing in the USA and to some extent in Australia, resulting in a body of work populated almost exclusively by young white males. However, in Cornwall, forms of surfing including belly and body boarding have been enjoyed for almost a century by all ages and ethnicities, both sexes, at every level from international competition to non-competitive leisure, from daily practice to holiday novelty. The area has developed a distinctive clothing culture stemming from this plethora of surfing activities. This study asks, how has the material culture of bellyboarding and surfing in Cornwall developed historically, and how does the clothing culture in the area relate to the global phenomenon of surf style? The contemporary scene is evaluated by means of a visual ethnography of a Cornish seaside village where surfing is the focus of social events and commercial endeavours. Through an examination of the clothing culture in the area, it explores how gender and sexuality, class and consumption, community and belonging are negotiated and articulated. The historical and cultural contexts in which this complex relationship developed are discussed with reference to archival material from regional museums, personal collections and interviews with amateur and professional surf historians. Oral histories of surfing, bellyboarding, bodyboarding and beach life compiled for the study and from existing collections are additionally used to interrogate existing narratives of surfing history. Drawing on and extending theoretical perspectives on subculture, taste, consumption, space and place, this will be the first study that investigates how the clothing culture of surfing explores and constitutes, constructs and reconstructs gender, class and regional identity, and how it defines and redefines the region’s surfing locales by its visible presence.

I investigate the idea together with the concepts of Imperfection, Arte Povera and Up-cycling Fashion, which conducts me to experiment with various unconventional materials and techniques. By this, a new working method is also created to provide colors, shapes and structures to the final outfits, which further gives spiritual values to the whole collection. / Program: Konstnärligt masterprogram i mode- och textildesign

En studie gällande Fad Fashion kopplat till varumärken. / <p>A study concerning Fad Fashion related to brands.</p><p>Program: Butikschefsutbildningen</p>