This paper attempts to analyze different representations of "androgyny‟ as fashion tendency in contemporary fashion magazines (Vogue, i-D and LOVE Magazine) for the period of 2010 and 2011. In order to show the development of "androgyny‟ as fashion tendency, this study first explores how androgyny metamorphosed from a "hidden‟ signifier of unconventional sexuality to "visible‟ postmodern teaser for sexual identities. Currently, we live in the "Age of Androgyny‟ where the modern androgynous dandy is being seen as an aphrodisiac for the fashion industry. This study also tries to provide explanation of how "androgyny‟ and "dandyism‟ evolved from concepts to parallel trends in fashion due to their frequent and simultaneous reappearance in fashion media. In order to create nuanced portrayal in the understanding of androgyny and dandyism, qualitative method was used by describing, analysing and interpreting the representation of these trends in three different fashion and art publications. The fact that this tendency for "gender fusion‟ is increasingly finding its way into mainstream culture, with emphsis on the fashion industry, raises the question of whether the society is more open towards different gender expressions or is "androgyny‟ just another exploitative form for the fashion industry.

The forming of M-shape Society changes the consume structure, and causes the fashion industry arisen. With the wave of acquisition in fashion industry in the 90¡¦s, now it has become only several fashion groups survive in the industry instead of numerous private independent companies. It¡¦s attractive for the companies to benefit from the connect effect of multi-brand coalition and single star brand. Therefore, we choose LVMH (Louis Vuitton - Moët Hennessy), a leading group in fashion industry, as the example in this thesis to analyze the M&A strategy of fashion groups. There are three issues we would like to discuss in this thesis: 1.To find out the motives and purpose of M&A strategy of fashion groups. 2.To find out how fashion groups choose the M&A objectives. 3.To understand what¡¦s the synergy that fashion groups pursue. Several important finding are as follow: 1.The motives of M&A strategies are enlarging the scope, entering new market and acquiring the resources and techniques. 2.Fashion groups value the brands with heritage, but acquire energy by the innovative brands. 3.The advantage of fashion group is the closed relationship between brands and the groups, and this can strengthen the position of each other in consumer mind. 4.Fashion brands depend on the star brands to operation effectively. Star brands are also the key factor to induce the synergy and the function of resources sharing.

In recent years, men¡¦s fashion magazines have become a new media genre that attracts lots of attention. The sales, advertisements, and publications of the men¡¦s fashion magazines have reached a remarkable performance. Media is an important social institution to shape gender images. Thus, this study aims to explore what kind of masculinity that men¡¦s fashion magazines in Taiwan represents? How to achieve the masculinity through consumption? Are there any differences in masculinity between transnational and local men¡¦s fashion magazines? What is the variation in men¡¦s fashion magazines in different periods? This study expects to describe the masculinity represented in men¡¦s fashion magazines of Taiwan to enrich the media and men¡¦s research resources. This study drawn on the masculinity theory based on the sociologist R.W. Connell¡¦s, and applied a methodology of quantitative content analysis. The subjects were the international Chinese edition of men¡¦s fashion magazine GQ and the local men¡¦s fashion magazine men¡¦s uno. The reason to focus the analysis on GQ and men¡¦s uno is due to the fact that they are the most popular and long-running men¡¦s fashion magazines in Taiwan respectively. By means of analyzing these two magazines published during 1997 to 2006, this research tries to understand the masculinity styles represented on the magazines¡¦ cover. The major finding revealed that the large numbers of men represented in men¡¦s fashion magazines of Taiwan were young men who aged between 18 and 35 (with 74.8% appearing in the ¡§cover figure¡¨ category and 71.2% in the ¡§featured people¡¨ category). Most of the men in the magazines were entertainment workers with appealing looks (with 90.1% appearing in the ¡§cover figure¡¨ category and 81.9% in the ¡§featured people¡¨ category). As for men¡¦s appearance types, the Trendy Cool type (43.2%) was the majority, the next types were Gentle (14.4%), Tough/Strong (11.7%), and Serious/Sophisticated (11.7%). Secondly, 60.5% of the article headlines on the magazines¡¦ covers were related to the consumption issues. The topics of the headlines were centered on fashion (39.6%) and featured people (29.8%). Furthermore, comparing the transnational with the local magazine, there were differences in men¡¦s age, occupation, appearance type, body type, and the topic and product category that the magazine emphasized. In conclusion, men¡¦s fashion magazines of Taiwan indeed appear a different kind of masculinity that I identify as ¡§stylish masculinity¡¨. This kind of masculinity focuses much attention on men¡¦s appearances, and it¡¦s achieved through a variety of ways of product consumption. The stylish masculinity overthrows some definitions of the traditional masculinity, but on the other hand, it still maintained some disciplines of traditional masculinity. Analyzing the transnational and local men¡¦s fashion magazines, we can understand even if the international men¡¦s fashion magazine, like GQ, appeared and influenced the local male in a global way. From different cultures, magazine origins and readerships, the local men¡¦s fashion magazine still can present some diverse features in many aspects. Finally, when the transnational fashion magazines introduce the international fashion information to local readers, it also conveys many global viewpoints about masculinity at the same time. However, it¡¦s still possible that the publisher takes a localized strategy in order to cater for the local life and culture.

This thesis aims to investigate women&rsquo / s oppression through analyzing the overlapping features of hegemonic ideology of beauty and fashion. The major goal of the study is to examine how beauty ideology is constructed and how it is practiced in the case of fashion. Additionally, the intersecting discourses of capitalist system and patriarchy have been questioned to understand women&rsquo / s oppression, as suggested by Dual-System theorists. Therefore, throughout the study, the common interests of capitalist and patriarchal systems in reproducing oppressive body politics have been demonstrated.

Since the Condé Nast Publications launched the first male fashion magazine GQ in Taiwan, Male fashion magazines in Taiwan have been booming for twelve years. No matter a large amount of advertising or increasing circulations, it shows that Male fashion magazines become one of resource of main fashion trades. .It is worth to know that, advertisers play an important role in the proceeding of producing magazine content. The advertisers have a great influence on the magazine content and the message which audience receive. In this research, researcher discusses how do advertisers affect the make-up of magazine to create an atmosphere for their sales growth of products? How do advertisers control the editorial decisions? How do advertisers affect the liberty in editor producing content? And how do advertisers make the commercial message as the magazine content? Two male fashion magazine publishers which can be the best examples among Taiwan male fashion magazines are selected. One is local publisher, another is international one. Researcher used ¡§In-depth interview¡¨ to collect the data for research. Seven stuff were interviewed in the research. Participant Observation is also adopted. The researcher, entered into the organization of the magazine publisher to examine the advertisers how to affect the proceeding of producing magazine content. The result shows that advertisement avenue is the major profit for Taiwan male fashion magazines, around 70% profit from advertisement. In order to maintain advertisement avenue, advertisers ask editors to arrange their commercial next to the content. By doing this, publishers create an atmosphere of sale products for advertisers to attractive more costumers. In addition, editors place a lot of products in the magazines for meeting advertisers¡¦ requirements to earn more profits. With the growing of produce placement, commercial message is turning into the content of magazine gradually. Moreover, advertisers use ¡§Invisible way¡¨ to affect how to edit the magazine content . ¡§Invisible way¡¨ means that advertisers pay editors for producing commercial content. This producing way make readers believe that the content is providing the c information which readers need; however, this content actually is a part of advertisements. Advertisers need a page of magazine for promoting product, and magazine publishers need financial support from advertisers. This interrelationship makes editors produce magazine content for advertisers. Therefore, magazine become a tool of advertisers promote product. In the proceeding of production of female fashion magazine, Earnshaw(1984¡^found out that female fashion magazines become a catalogue, and this research provide the further evidence that Taiwan male fashion magazines are the same in these days. In addition, it reflects that the ranks of sartorially self-aware males are growing compared to the past years.

In Taiwen, several creative markets which called Fashion Markets were growing quickly after 2005, in the same time, Taiwan government started to promote the cultural and creative industry. Therefore, many people held Fashion Market to cooperate with the policy. However, Fashion Market declined in the late of 2007 because of the massive consumption. Would Fashion Markets be another kind of Portuguese egg tart in and an expense phenomenon in Taiwan? This study attempts to understand the possibility whether Fashion Markets can run on the internet from the view of electronic commerce management. From references and cases interviews, this study discovers the characteristics of internet quite match Fashion Markets. On the internet, Fashion Markets can mainly develop into three forms: 1. The Clicks-and-Mortar sales platform. 2. The virtual community with creation spirit. 3. The comprehensive platform with sales and shows. The characteristics of internet, like Low Cost and Information Spread, let Fashion Markets to rest, and gather designers from Taiwan to sell and share their work on the internet. On the other hand, the website administrators cooperate with other businesses, not only the designers have a opportunity to show their impressive talents, but also the populace can see many cultural and creative works from Taiwanese designers by these cooperating activities. The spirit of Fashion Markets is not only sales, but also a display stage which can use their creativity heartily. If the internet can help Fashion Market in its complete development, it will generate precious nourishment for Fashion Market in Taiwan. Otherwise, Fashion Market would only become an expense phenomenon in a short run. It just likes the important sustenance to cultivate Taiwan creative culture.

Thesis (DBA)--City University of Hong Kong, 2009. / "Submitted to College of Business in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Business Administration." Includes bibliographical references (leaves 138-153)

Thesis (M.A.)--Florida State University, 2004. / Advisor: Dr. Laura Edmondson, Florida State University, School of Theatre. Title and description from dissertation home page (viewed 6/15/04). Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Texas at Austin, 2001. / Vita. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 551-588). Available also in a digital version from Dissertation Abstracts.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Ohio State University, 2002. / Title from first page of PDF file. Document formatted into pages; contains xvi, 189 p.: ill. Includes abstract and vita. Advisors: Sharron J. Lennon and Leslie Stehl, Dept. of Consumer and Textile Sciences. Includes bibliographical references (p. 150-161).