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noneLin, Su-Wei 27 August 2009 (has links)
In Taiwen, several creative markets which called Fashion Markets were growing quickly after 2005, in the same time, Taiwan government started to promote the cultural and creative industry. Therefore, many people held Fashion Market to cooperate with the policy. However, Fashion Market declined in the late of 2007 because of the massive consumption. Would Fashion Markets be another kind of Portuguese egg tart in and an expense phenomenon in Taiwan?
This study attempts to understand the possibility whether Fashion Markets can run on the internet from the view of electronic commerce management. From references and cases interviews, this study discovers the characteristics of internet quite match Fashion Markets. On the internet, Fashion Markets can mainly develop into three forms: 1. The Clicks-and-Mortar sales platform. 2. The virtual community with creation spirit. 3. The comprehensive platform with sales and shows. The characteristics of internet, like Low Cost and Information Spread, let Fashion Markets to rest, and gather designers from Taiwan to sell and share their work on the internet. On the other hand, the website administrators cooperate with other businesses, not only the designers have a opportunity to show their impressive talents, but also the populace can see many cultural and creative works from Taiwanese designers by these cooperating activities. The spirit of Fashion Markets is not only sales, but also a display stage which can use their creativity heartily. If the internet can help Fashion Market in its complete development, it will generate precious nourishment for Fashion Market in Taiwan. Otherwise, Fashion Market would only become an expense phenomenon in a short run. It just likes the important sustenance to cultivate Taiwan creative culture.
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Ilustração de moda: uma narrativa cronológica contextualizada / Fashion Illustration: a contextualized chronological narrativeRocha, Lara Dahas Jorge 25 September 2018 (has links)
O presente trabalho investiga aspectos históricos acerca da estética e da funcionalidade da Ilustração de Moda. A partir da hipótese norteadora de que a Ilustração de Moda possui engrenagens cujos papéis se modificam através do tempo no processo de adaptação ao mercado, este trabalho analisa tal fenômeno mediante, predominantemente, a revisão e interpretação de obras de autores que se debruçaram sobre a historiografia da moda e da ilustração de moda ocidental, associados à análise de trabalhos no segmento em questão. A pesquisa é baseada em metodologia qualitativa de coleta de dados e interpretação de conteúdo artístico, referenciada pelo trabalho de Rui de Oliveira. São referenciados, também, teóricos de áreas correlatas como João Braga, Daniela Calanca, Paula Sibila, Ernest Gombrich, Mônica Moura e Dijon de Moraes, a fim de construir, de forma mais coesa, os assuntos abordados em textos que relacionam áreas como História da Moda, Comunicação Social, História da Arte, Design e Desenho de Moda. Sob essas diretrizes, é construída uma narrativa cronológica contextualizada, que serve como instrumento para analisar e compreender os fatores que constituem o mercado de moda em diferentes épocas e que adaptam e ressignificam uma das técnicas mais antigas de comunicação de moda, mantidas até os dias atuais / The present work investigates historical aspects of the aesthetics and functionality of the theoretical field of Fashion Illustration. Based on the guiding hypothesis that the Fashion Illustration has gears whose roles change over time in the process of adaptation to the market, this work analyzes this phenomenon, mainly by reviewing and interpreting the work of authors who have studied the historiography of fashion and Western fashion illustration, associated with the analysis of works in the segment of fashion illustration. The research is based on a qualitative methodology of data collection and interpretation of artistic content, referenced by the work of Rui de Oliveira. Theorists such as João Braga, Daniela Calanca, Paula Sibila, Ernest Gombrich, Mônica Moura, and Dijon de Moraes are referred in order to build the subjects discussed in texts of related areas as Fashion History, Social Communication, History of Art, Design and Fashion Design. Under these guidelines, a contextualized chronological narrative is constructed that serves as an instrument to analyze and understand the factors that constitute the fashion market in different times that adapt and re-signify one of the oldest techniques of fashion communication maintained until the present day
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Ilustração de moda: uma narrativa cronológica contextualizada / Fashion Illustration: a contextualized chronological narrativeLara Dahas Jorge Rocha 25 September 2018 (has links)
O presente trabalho investiga aspectos históricos acerca da estética e da funcionalidade da Ilustração de Moda. A partir da hipótese norteadora de que a Ilustração de Moda possui engrenagens cujos papéis se modificam através do tempo no processo de adaptação ao mercado, este trabalho analisa tal fenômeno mediante, predominantemente, a revisão e interpretação de obras de autores que se debruçaram sobre a historiografia da moda e da ilustração de moda ocidental, associados à análise de trabalhos no segmento em questão. A pesquisa é baseada em metodologia qualitativa de coleta de dados e interpretação de conteúdo artístico, referenciada pelo trabalho de Rui de Oliveira. São referenciados, também, teóricos de áreas correlatas como João Braga, Daniela Calanca, Paula Sibila, Ernest Gombrich, Mônica Moura e Dijon de Moraes, a fim de construir, de forma mais coesa, os assuntos abordados em textos que relacionam áreas como História da Moda, Comunicação Social, História da Arte, Design e Desenho de Moda. Sob essas diretrizes, é construída uma narrativa cronológica contextualizada, que serve como instrumento para analisar e compreender os fatores que constituem o mercado de moda em diferentes épocas e que adaptam e ressignificam uma das técnicas mais antigas de comunicação de moda, mantidas até os dias atuais / The present work investigates historical aspects of the aesthetics and functionality of the theoretical field of Fashion Illustration. Based on the guiding hypothesis that the Fashion Illustration has gears whose roles change over time in the process of adaptation to the market, this work analyzes this phenomenon, mainly by reviewing and interpreting the work of authors who have studied the historiography of fashion and Western fashion illustration, associated with the analysis of works in the segment of fashion illustration. The research is based on a qualitative methodology of data collection and interpretation of artistic content, referenced by the work of Rui de Oliveira. Theorists such as João Braga, Daniela Calanca, Paula Sibila, Ernest Gombrich, Mônica Moura, and Dijon de Moraes are referred in order to build the subjects discussed in texts of related areas as Fashion History, Social Communication, History of Art, Design and Fashion Design. Under these guidelines, a contextualized chronological narrative is constructed that serves as an instrument to analyze and understand the factors that constitute the fashion market in different times that adapt and re-signify one of the oldest techniques of fashion communication maintained until the present day
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How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market?Ka Yu, Setu, Zastezhko, Olena January 2008 (has links)
<p>Abstract</p><p>Date: 2008 May 28</p><p>Course: Master Thesis</p><p>Authors: Ka Yu Seto and Olena Zastezhko</p><p>Tutor: Carl Thunman</p><p>Title: How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market?</p><p>Introduction:</p><p>Japan is one of the largest and most sophisticated clothing markets in the world, and its fashion designs and products quality enjoy high reputation from world-wide. Because of keen competition in the domestic market, fashion retail chains find it necessary to search for new markets Asia’s potential has been already extensively exploited for decades. Thus, in order to further expand, Europe should be considered for the next step in nternationalization. Germany seems to be a good choice, since it has huge population, large market value and is located in the centre of Europe. There has been a number of studies published about foreign retailers entering Japan, however, only few researches consider moves of the Japanese retailers to other countries, to Asia in particular. In order to fill in the information gap the current study was conducted. It focuses on investigating the German menswear and womenswear markets from the perspective of potential for the Japanese SPAs.</p><p>Purpose:</p><p>The purpose of the thesis is to describe German apparel market and to examine how the Japanese SPAs can enter it. The research is limited to the German menswear and womenswear markets, which target men and women aged 15 and above. Finally, the research is aimed at providing recommendations for the Japanese SPAs regarding planning marketing strategies when entering the German market.</p><p>Method:</p><p>Primary: The primary data was received through conducting three semi-structured interviews with experts in fashion industry in Germany, who can give professional overview of the German fashion market. The aim was to obtain the latest information related to the fashion market conditions, consumers’ expectations and their purchasing habits, as well as factors that are not covered by the previous studies, but are crucial for the current research.</p><p>Secondary: The secondary data was collected mostly via Internet; however a number of printed publications was used as well. Market reports by such marketing agencies as CBI, Datamonitor, ACNielson and Euromonitor became the basis for the research. Other scientific sources were retrieved through electronic databases such as ABI/ Inform, EBSCO, Emerald, ELIN@Mälardalen, Google and Google Scholar. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and books Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues (Hines & Bruce, 2007) and Fashion Design (Jones, 2005) provided latest insights into current trends in fashion marketing, as well as introduced main concepts of the studied area.</p><p>Theoretical Model:</p><p>Existing studies contribute a lot to identifying crucial variables concerning fashion marketing. However, there is no available model that can fulfill the purpose of the current research. That is why a new model was developed in order to achieve the aim of the thesis. Since the purpose is to describe the German fast fashion market four factors influencing it were identified. They are categorized as follows: Market Environment in Germany, Competition, Activities in the Market and German Customers. Within each factor a set of variables was distinguished and analyzed. Market Environment in Germany factor covers macro and micro environments; Competition factor is analyzed in terms of positioning and branding of the major competitors; Activities in the Market factor discusses 4Ps and customer service; and German Customers factor reveals consumer behavior aspects as well as attitudes of Germans to branding and country of origin. German sizes are also covered within this factor. The created model helps identify market situaton the Japanese SPAs will face when entering the German fast fashion market.</p><p>Analysis and Conclusion:</p><p>The study revealed that though the German apparel market is highly competitive it is also an attractive one for apparel companies and there is a place for newcomers who can differentiate themselves from the majority. Since there exist some gaps in the market supply in terms of quality/price and fashion/quality ratios, those Japanese SPAs who will be able to cover these gaps can have good potential in the German fast fashion market. This means that those Japanese SPAs who can supply apparel of good quality, with fashionable designs, but at the same time at competitive prices can find favorable positions in the market. In addition, as new comers the Japanese SPAs need to ensure that they can satisfy quick response requirement which is crucial to the fast fashion industry, and this can become a challenge. Also, the research revealed that the German customers are brand conscious, thus it is important for the Japanese SPAs to build brand awareness and brand reputation among Germans. Moreover, the Japanese SPAs need to identify target segments which they can serve at their best. A set of recommendations provided in the thesis regarding marketing strategies shows how the German market conditions can be used for creating advantages for the Japanese SPAs.</p>
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How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market?Ka Yu, Setu, Zastezhko, Olena January 2008 (has links)
Abstract Date: 2008 May 28 Course: Master Thesis Authors: Ka Yu Seto and Olena Zastezhko Tutor: Carl Thunman Title: How can the Japanese specialty retailers of private-label apparel (SPAs) go into the German fast fashion market? Introduction: Japan is one of the largest and most sophisticated clothing markets in the world, and its fashion designs and products quality enjoy high reputation from world-wide. Because of keen competition in the domestic market, fashion retail chains find it necessary to search for new markets Asia’s potential has been already extensively exploited for decades. Thus, in order to further expand, Europe should be considered for the next step in nternationalization. Germany seems to be a good choice, since it has huge population, large market value and is located in the centre of Europe. There has been a number of studies published about foreign retailers entering Japan, however, only few researches consider moves of the Japanese retailers to other countries, to Asia in particular. In order to fill in the information gap the current study was conducted. It focuses on investigating the German menswear and womenswear markets from the perspective of potential for the Japanese SPAs. Purpose: The purpose of the thesis is to describe German apparel market and to examine how the Japanese SPAs can enter it. The research is limited to the German menswear and womenswear markets, which target men and women aged 15 and above. Finally, the research is aimed at providing recommendations for the Japanese SPAs regarding planning marketing strategies when entering the German market. Method: Primary: The primary data was received through conducting three semi-structured interviews with experts in fashion industry in Germany, who can give professional overview of the German fashion market. The aim was to obtain the latest information related to the fashion market conditions, consumers’ expectations and their purchasing habits, as well as factors that are not covered by the previous studies, but are crucial for the current research. Secondary: The secondary data was collected mostly via Internet; however a number of printed publications was used as well. Market reports by such marketing agencies as CBI, Datamonitor, ACNielson and Euromonitor became the basis for the research. Other scientific sources were retrieved through electronic databases such as ABI/ Inform, EBSCO, Emerald, ELIN@Mälardalen, Google and Google Scholar. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and books Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues (Hines & Bruce, 2007) and Fashion Design (Jones, 2005) provided latest insights into current trends in fashion marketing, as well as introduced main concepts of the studied area. Theoretical Model: Existing studies contribute a lot to identifying crucial variables concerning fashion marketing. However, there is no available model that can fulfill the purpose of the current research. That is why a new model was developed in order to achieve the aim of the thesis. Since the purpose is to describe the German fast fashion market four factors influencing it were identified. They are categorized as follows: Market Environment in Germany, Competition, Activities in the Market and German Customers. Within each factor a set of variables was distinguished and analyzed. Market Environment in Germany factor covers macro and micro environments; Competition factor is analyzed in terms of positioning and branding of the major competitors; Activities in the Market factor discusses 4Ps and customer service; and German Customers factor reveals consumer behavior aspects as well as attitudes of Germans to branding and country of origin. German sizes are also covered within this factor. The created model helps identify market situaton the Japanese SPAs will face when entering the German fast fashion market. Analysis and Conclusion: The study revealed that though the German apparel market is highly competitive it is also an attractive one for apparel companies and there is a place for newcomers who can differentiate themselves from the majority. Since there exist some gaps in the market supply in terms of quality/price and fashion/quality ratios, those Japanese SPAs who will be able to cover these gaps can have good potential in the German fast fashion market. This means that those Japanese SPAs who can supply apparel of good quality, with fashionable designs, but at the same time at competitive prices can find favorable positions in the market. In addition, as new comers the Japanese SPAs need to ensure that they can satisfy quick response requirement which is crucial to the fast fashion industry, and this can become a challenge. Also, the research revealed that the German customers are brand conscious, thus it is important for the Japanese SPAs to build brand awareness and brand reputation among Germans. Moreover, the Japanese SPAs need to identify target segments which they can serve at their best. A set of recommendations provided in the thesis regarding marketing strategies shows how the German market conditions can be used for creating advantages for the Japanese SPAs.
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Processo de desenvolvimento de produto em microempresas de vestuário das cidades de Cachoeirinha/RS e Gravataí/RSLima, Bruna Lummertz January 2014 (has links)
A pesquisa teve como objetivo caracterizar as necessidades de uma metodologia de projeto de produto em moda aplicável a microempresas em quatro microempresas produtoras de vestuário da região metropolitana de Porto Alegre/ RS. O estudo iniciou- se com a fundamentação teórica, conceituando: produto de moda, mercado de moda no Brasil, organização da produção e proposições de metodologia para projeto de produto de design e moda. Posteriormente, a metodologia de trabalho foi descrita, onde foi proposta uma pesquisa qualitativa, utilizando como instrumentos a entrevista e a observação das atividades desempenhadas no PDP das confecções, que atuam nos municípios de Cachoeirinha e Gravataí. Os sujeitos participantes foram funcionários envolvidos diretamente com o desenvolvimento de produto. Para analisar os dados qualitativos foi utilizada a análise de conteúdo, onde a autora teve a possibilidade decompilar os dados e posteriormente relacionar os dados com metodologia para projeto de Moda de Treptow (2007). Em sequência, as necessidades metodológicas foram apresentadas de forma ilustrativa e textual seguidas das considerações finais. / The research has the objective to feature the needs of a methodology product design fashion applicable to micro four producing clothing microenterprises in the metropolitan region of Porto Alegre / RS. The study began with the theoretical framework, conceptualizing, fashion products, fashion market in Brazil, organization of production and propositions methodology for product design and fashion design. Subsequently, the methodology country working was described, which was a qualitative research proposal, using as instruments the interview and observation of the activities performed in the PDP of clothing that operate in the towns of Gravataí and Cachoeirinha. Subjects participants were employees directly involved with product development. To analyze the qualitative data content analysis, where the author was able to compile the data and then correlate the data with a methodology to design Fashion Treptow (2007) was used. In sequence, the methodological requirements were presented followed illustrative and textual form the final remarks.
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Processo de desenvolvimento de produto em microempresas de vestuário das cidades de Cachoeirinha/RS e Gravataí/RSLima, Bruna Lummertz January 2014 (has links)
A pesquisa teve como objetivo caracterizar as necessidades de uma metodologia de projeto de produto em moda aplicável a microempresas em quatro microempresas produtoras de vestuário da região metropolitana de Porto Alegre/ RS. O estudo iniciou- se com a fundamentação teórica, conceituando: produto de moda, mercado de moda no Brasil, organização da produção e proposições de metodologia para projeto de produto de design e moda. Posteriormente, a metodologia de trabalho foi descrita, onde foi proposta uma pesquisa qualitativa, utilizando como instrumentos a entrevista e a observação das atividades desempenhadas no PDP das confecções, que atuam nos municípios de Cachoeirinha e Gravataí. Os sujeitos participantes foram funcionários envolvidos diretamente com o desenvolvimento de produto. Para analisar os dados qualitativos foi utilizada a análise de conteúdo, onde a autora teve a possibilidade decompilar os dados e posteriormente relacionar os dados com metodologia para projeto de Moda de Treptow (2007). Em sequência, as necessidades metodológicas foram apresentadas de forma ilustrativa e textual seguidas das considerações finais. / The research has the objective to feature the needs of a methodology product design fashion applicable to micro four producing clothing microenterprises in the metropolitan region of Porto Alegre / RS. The study began with the theoretical framework, conceptualizing, fashion products, fashion market in Brazil, organization of production and propositions methodology for product design and fashion design. Subsequently, the methodology country working was described, which was a qualitative research proposal, using as instruments the interview and observation of the activities performed in the PDP of clothing that operate in the towns of Gravataí and Cachoeirinha. Subjects participants were employees directly involved with product development. To analyze the qualitative data content analysis, where the author was able to compile the data and then correlate the data with a methodology to design Fashion Treptow (2007) was used. In sequence, the methodological requirements were presented followed illustrative and textual form the final remarks.
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Processo de desenvolvimento de produto em microempresas de vestuário das cidades de Cachoeirinha/RS e Gravataí/RSLima, Bruna Lummertz January 2014 (has links)
A pesquisa teve como objetivo caracterizar as necessidades de uma metodologia de projeto de produto em moda aplicável a microempresas em quatro microempresas produtoras de vestuário da região metropolitana de Porto Alegre/ RS. O estudo iniciou- se com a fundamentação teórica, conceituando: produto de moda, mercado de moda no Brasil, organização da produção e proposições de metodologia para projeto de produto de design e moda. Posteriormente, a metodologia de trabalho foi descrita, onde foi proposta uma pesquisa qualitativa, utilizando como instrumentos a entrevista e a observação das atividades desempenhadas no PDP das confecções, que atuam nos municípios de Cachoeirinha e Gravataí. Os sujeitos participantes foram funcionários envolvidos diretamente com o desenvolvimento de produto. Para analisar os dados qualitativos foi utilizada a análise de conteúdo, onde a autora teve a possibilidade decompilar os dados e posteriormente relacionar os dados com metodologia para projeto de Moda de Treptow (2007). Em sequência, as necessidades metodológicas foram apresentadas de forma ilustrativa e textual seguidas das considerações finais. / The research has the objective to feature the needs of a methodology product design fashion applicable to micro four producing clothing microenterprises in the metropolitan region of Porto Alegre / RS. The study began with the theoretical framework, conceptualizing, fashion products, fashion market in Brazil, organization of production and propositions methodology for product design and fashion design. Subsequently, the methodology country working was described, which was a qualitative research proposal, using as instruments the interview and observation of the activities performed in the PDP of clothing that operate in the towns of Gravataí and Cachoeirinha. Subjects participants were employees directly involved with product development. To analyze the qualitative data content analysis, where the author was able to compile the data and then correlate the data with a methodology to design Fashion Treptow (2007) was used. In sequence, the methodological requirements were presented followed illustrative and textual form the final remarks.
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Moda brasileira e mundialização = mercado mundial e trocas simbólicas / Brazilian fashion and globalization : world market and symbolic exchangesMichetti, Miqueli, 1982- 03 July 2012 (has links)
Orientador: Renato José Pinto Ortiz / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-19T20:39:25Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1
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Previous issue date: 2012 / Resumo: A "moda brasileira", a despeito de seu nome, não conforma um fenômeno nacional. Ela integra e tem por condicionantes os processos de globalização de mercados e de mundialização da cultura. Com o objetivo de elucidar porque a "moda brasileira", enquanto configuração material e simbólica, só faz sentido se pensada no seio desse panorama mais amplo, realizamos pesquisas de campo em eventos de moda nos quais ela era apresentada, sediados nas cidades de São Paulo, do Rio de Janeiro e de Paris. Análises bibliográficas e de conjuntura também foram cruciais para entendermos a articulação de diversos agentes, imbuídos de interesses, valores e discursos específicos, em torno da volição de se construir uma "moda nacional", ao mesmo tempo diferente e equivalente das modas historicamente consagradas. A partir da abertura do mercado brasileiro ocorrida na década de 1990, o setor nacional de têxteis, confecções e moda assistiu à transformação do estado da concorrência no mercado doméstico, diante do que buscou-se construir um "diferencial competitivo" para a moda do país, desde então às voltas com o mercado global. Esse movimento é perpassado por dinâmicas simbólicas complexas, visto que, embora a moda nacional seja majoritariamente produzida e consumida no mercado doméstico e, nesse sentido, não seja econômica ou objetivamente global, a globalidade é atualmente erigida como um valor mundialmente válido e, conseguintemente, mesmo visando especialmente o mercado interno, a moda do país precisará adequar-se a padrões de organização, qualidade e consagração que se tornam globais. Diante disso, ela buscará ser reconhecida enquanto "global" e, para tanto, tentará consagrar-se junto às "capitais mundiais" da moda. Todavia, para ser aceita em um mercado global de bens simbólicos que elege também a diversidade como valor positivo, a moda do país deverá ser oferecida enquanto "brasileira". Logo, as iniciativas em prol da constituição de uma "moda nacional" e aquelas com vistas à sua globalização são simultâneas porquanto correlatas. Isso explica porque, embora configure um fenômeno característico da globalização, a "moda brasileira" tomará por fonte simbólica as representações sobre "o" Brasil e sua suposta diversidade. É por isso também que as construções identitárias no bojo das marcas de moda nacionais com pretensões globais buscarão não se restringir aos usos da "brasilidade", mas encampar os dois valores caros à moda atual. Contudo, no mesmo momento em que as identidades são discursadas como "flexíveis" e em que a mobilidade se torna quesito valorativo, as condições das composições identitárias entre diversidade e globalidade serão desigualmente distribuídas conforme os agentes enverguem posições mais afeitas à fixidez ou à mobilidade, o que apresenta vínculos mediados com seus pertencimentos geosimbólicos. Portanto, a "moda brasileira" buscará emprestar globalidade das instâncias globais de consagração, as quais, de sua parte, precisarão da diversidade imputada às ditas "modas do mundo". Porém, embora a moda global integre hoje agentes e regiões que não constavam anteriormente na cartografia do setor, as novas relações a que dá lugar não são isentas de hierarquias. Ainda que interesses mútuos sejam contemplados nas novas trocas econômico-culturais constitutivas da moda contemporânea, nelas alguns tem mais a ganhar / Abstract: The "Brazilian fashion", despite its name, is in fact a global phenomenon which is conditioned by the processes of globalization of markets and culture. In order to elucidate why the "Brazilian fashion", conceived as a material and symbolic assemblage, only makes sense if thought within the globalization conjuncture, we conducted field researches in the cities of São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Paris, more specifically in fashion events where the "Brazilian fashion" was presented. Literature reviews and conjunctural analysis were also crucial to understand the articulation of different agents, imbued with specific interests, values and discourses around the volition to build a "national fashion", at the same time different and equivalent of the historically consecrated fashions. Due the liberalization of the Brazilian market in the 1990s, foreign competition in the domestic market impelled the national industry of textiles, apparel and fashion to build a "competitive edge" for the country?s fashion in order to deal with the global market. This movement is permeated by complex symbolic dynamics, for although the national fashion is mostly produced and consumed in the domestic market and, in this sense, is not economically global, "globality" is now established as a worldly valid value and, consequently, the national fashion has to conform itself to organizational, qualitative and consecration standards, which become global, even though the internal market is its most important target. Because of this, "Brazilian fashion" seeks to be recognized as "global" and, therefore, tries to consecrate itself in the "fashion capitals" of the world. However, to be accepted in a global market of symbolic goods which elects diversity as a positive value, the national fashion must be offered and show itself as "Brazilian". Therefore, initiatives to promote the establishment of a "national fashion" and those seeking its globalization are simultaneous and correlated. This explains why, although it is a globalization phenomenon, the "Brazilian fashion" will take some representations of "the" Brazil and its presumed diversity as its symbolic source. It also explains why the construction of the identities by the national fashion brands with global aspirations couldn?t be restricted to the uses of "Brazilianness", for it has to encompass both fashion market current values. Nevertheless, in the same conjuncture in which identities are discoursed as "flexible" and where mobility becomes positively distinctive, the conditions of identity compositions between globality and diversity are unevenly distributed according to a more fixed or mobile position of agents, which has mediated links with their geosimbolic belongings. Thus, the "Brazilian fashion" tries to borrow the consecration of global instances, that in turn need the diversity attributed to the so-called "local fashions" or "world fashions". Although nowadays global fashion integrates agents and regions which were not included in the earlier cartography of the sector, and even if mutual interests are covered in the new economic and cultural exchanges that constitute the contemporary fashion, the new relationships it arises are not free of hierarchies / Doutorado / Sociologia / Doutor em Sociologia
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Undressing the Swedish Fashion Renting Market : A mixed method study about understanding a young marketBjelkenäs, Elsa, Rognsvåg, Amanda January 2022 (has links)
There is little research covering the Swedish fashion renting market (SFRM), regarding which companies operate on the market, what they communicate or how the market is connected to the environmental perspective. The purpose of this study is to outline the SFRM, as well as to analyse brand communication through Instagram and how the media present the SFRM. The study is based on a mixed method, consisting of company information, Instagram posts and articles from Swedish sources. Furthermore, the methods used to analyse the data are Qualitative Content Analysis and Critical Discourse Analysis. Our results show that SFRM consists of five companies, mostly small enterprises located in the Stockholm area. The companies main messages on Instagram is overall community building and inspiration. We found three themes that create the identity within SFRM, namely sustainability, consumption and entrepreneurship. A combined result from the analysis of articles, Instagram and business information shows that there is a big difference in how the companies front themselves. Most companies on SFRM are trend-driven, as they more or less distribute the same clothes that can be found in stores, as they are trend-driven and follow the trends on what the customer wants. The division between trend-driven and not trend-driven companies could be the answer to why the sustainability perspective in SFRM is not so well addressed by all companies, as their goal is similar to the traditional fashion market: to provide consumers with fashion.
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