Klättring som utförs på överhängande ytor blir allt vanligare och kräver mer avancerad användning av underkroppen. Då tidigare forskning i synnerhet undersökt överkroppsstyrka saknas en muskulär profilering av underkroppen hos klättrare vilket således var syftet med denna studie. Frågeställningarna eftersträvade att undersöka om skillnader i styrka och power i nedre extremiteter kan relateras till prestation hos manliga klättrare. Deltagarna var 10 manliga amatörklättrare som delades in i 2 grupper baserat på idrottsspecifik prestationsnivå. Grupp 1 (n=6) kategoriserades som avancerade klättrare och grupp 2 (n=4) som moderata. Ett isokinetiskt styrketest och två olika hopptester genomfördes av samtliga studiedeltagare. Efter statistisk analys framgick det att det inte fanns några signifikanta skillnader (p= 0,05) mellan grupperna gällande relativ styrka i quadriceps, relativ styrka i hamstrings, H/Q-kvot, hopphöjd vid SJ eller hopphöjd vid CMJ. Gruppen med mer avancerade klättrare presterade signifikant högre vid CMJ kontra SJ (p=0,013). Slutsatserna av denna studie är att klättrare har förhållandevis låga resultat både vid mätning av H/Q-kvot vid 90°/s (grupp 1: 51% vs. grupp 2: 53,9%), 210°/s (59,4% vs. 57,9%) och vid vertikala hopptester (SJ: 32,1cm vs. 31,7cm; CMJ: 35,8 cm vs. 33,9 cm) samt att hoppteknik verkar kunna vara en bidragande faktor för prestation inom klättring. / Rock climbing performed on overhanging surfaces is becoming more common and requires more advanced use of the lower body. Since previous research has mostly examined upper body strength there is a need for a muscular profiling of the lower body of climbers, which was the purpose of this study. The study sought to investigate whether differences in strength and power in the lower extremities can be related to climbing performance in male climbers. The participants were 10 male amateur climbers divided into two groups based on athletes-specific performance level. Group 1 (n=6) where categorized as advanced climbers and group 2 (n=4) as moderate. An isokinetic strength test and two different jump tests were performed by all study participants. After statistical analysis, there were no significant differences (p= 0,05) between the groups in relative strength in the quadriceps, relative strength in hamstrings, H/Q-ratio, jump height at SJ or jump height at CMJ. The group with more advanced climbers performed significantly higher at CMJ versus SJ (p = 0.013). The conclusions of this study are that climbers have relatively low results when measuring H/Q-ratio at 90°/s (group 1: 51% vs. group 2: 53,9%), 210°/s (59,4% vs. 57,9%) and height at vertical jump tests (SJ: 32,1cm vs. 31,7cm; CMJ: 35,8 cm vs. 33,9 cm) and that jump technique seems to be a contributing factor in climbing performance.

Title: The effect of active recovery and hydroterapy on the subsequent short-term and medium-term muscular performance Objective: The aim of the study was to compare the effect of two recoveries (ice pack, passive recovery) on the subsequent short-term and three recoveries (active recovery, cold water immersion, passive recovery) on the medium-term knee strength in the extension and flexion. Methods: Fourteen athletes in an average age of 26,6±4,4 years performed, in a random cross-over design, 2 sessions with 5 repeated short-term isokinetic tests and 3 sessions with 3 repeated medium-term isokinetic tests. The effect of ice packs and passive rest and the effect of active recovery, passive rest and cold water immersion were assessed by the 5x2 (time x recovery) and 3x3 (time x recovery) repeated-measure ANOVA, respectively. Results: The ice packs did not have any effect on peak torque, total work and average power during short-term performances. The average heart rate was significantly lower during measurements with the ice packs than during the passive recovery (125±15 vs. 135±20 tepů. min-1 ). We stated significantly lower changes in knee extension for the peak torque after the active recovery (↑ 0,9 N.m) than after the cold water immersion (↓ 14,6 N.m) or the passive recovery (↓ 13,9 N.m). The...

Title: The effect of active recovery and hydroterapy on the subsequent short-term and medium-term muscular performance Objective: The aim of the study was to compare the effect of two recoveries (ice pack, passive recovery) on the subsequent short-term and three recoveries (active recovery, cold water immersion, passive recovery) on the medium-term knee strength in the extension and flexion. Methods: Fourteen athletes in an average age of 26,6±4,4 years performed, in a random cross-over design, 2 sessions with 5 repeated short-term isokinetic tests and 3 sessions with 3 repeated medium-term isokinetic tests. The effect of ice packs and passive rest and the effect of active recovery, passive rest and cold water immersion were assessed by the 5x2 (time x recovery) and 3x3 (time x recovery) repeated-measure ANOVA, respectively. Results: The ice packs did not have any effect on peak torque, total work and average power during short-term performances. The average heart rate was significantly lower during measurements with the ice packs than during the passive recovery (125±15 vs. 135±20 tepů. min-1 ). We stated significantly lower changes in knee extension for the peak torque after the active recovery (↑ 0,9 N.m) than after the cold water immersion (↓ 14,6 N.m) or the passive recovery (↓ 13,9 N.m). The...