Svobodová, M.: Jewellery and its place in Art Education at elementary school/ graduation thesis / Prague 2011 / Charles University in Prague, faculty of Education - department of Art Education, p. 103 The theoretical background of this diploma thesis describes a brief history and development of the jewellery from the prehistoric times to the present days. It focuses mainly on the new history of production and jewellery design and tries to watch up the origin of author's jewel, mainly the trend of the non-traditional materials creation. In today's production, it presents a few alternative Czech designers and their work. Two creative successions that were realized with elementary school children are presented in didactical part. The last, creative section of the thesis presents author's own piece of work.

Cette thèse s’intéresse au rôle et à la représentation des bijoux dans les textes narratifs français des trois dernières décennies du XIXe siècle. Non seulement ils abondent dans les œuvres en prose de l’époque, les pierres et métaux précieux en investissent à la fois l’intrigue, le lexique et la poétique. Qui plus est, ils constituent aussi des objets fortement connotés animant les récits de leurs propres significations esthétiques, sociales, économiques et politiques. Les études de texte ici présentées amènent par surcroît à constater qu’à travers les joyaux, des sujets ou des interrogations essentiels au discours du temps surgissent, se problématisent, s’amalgament et se métamorphosent. Suivant une approche sociocritique, qui conjugue l’analyse textuelle à l’examen de données socio-historiques, cette étude du bijou dans le roman fin-de-siècle démontre qu’en tant que signe polysémique, il cristallise les implications littéraires, esthétiques et sociales du texte et constitue un objet privilégié pour mettre en communication les auteurs avec leur société. Plus précisément, le bijou dans la littérature fin-de-siècle condense des rapports de force de l’époque : emblème des séculaires lignées aristocratiques de jadis, il constitue dans un monde désormais bourgeois un objet qui se vend, se démocratise et se copie; signe de l’asservissement du corps féminin à une autorité masculine, il peut aussi devenir l’arme terrible d’héroïnes conquérantes et affranchies; matière prisée des rêveurs et des artisans, il permet au texte fin-de-siècle de se positionner par rapport à l’hégémonie zolienne et aux autres pratiques artistiques du temps. Chacune des trois grandes parties de la thèse (l’objet, le corps, la matière) explore l’une de ces luttes de pouvoir, et est divisée en deux chapitres présentant tour à tour des points de vue qui se complètent ou qui s’affrontent. Cette thèse invite au final à isoler certains aspects de la gemme (la rareté, la dualité nature / culture, etc.) qui en font une métaphore de prédilection pour les auteurs de l’époque. Du nombre, sa résistance, toujours mise en tension avec l’inexorable travail de la durée, permet de mieux cerner l’esthétique fin-de-siècle et son rapport équivoque, conflictuel, au monde et au temps qui passe. / This thesis investigates the function and representation of jewels in French narratives from the last three decades of the nineteenth century. Not only is this prose rich in gems and precious metals; its plot, vocabulary, and aesthetic are endowed with these luxurious substances and with their properties. In addition jewels represent objects of strong connotations, and thus they charge the narratives with their own aesthetic, social, economical or political meanings. Above all, the analyses of texts presented here reveal that through jewels, interrogations that are central in the social discourse of the time are raised, problematized, intertwined or transfigured. In accordance with a sociocriticism that takes into consideration socio-historical issues in its approach to literary text this study of the jewel in the fin-de-siècle novel shows that, being strong and complex signs, jewels condense the literary, aesthetic and social implications of the text, and constitute privileged objects prone to mediate authors with their society. More precisely, jewels in fin-de-siècle literature summarize tensions of the time: emblems of the secular aristocratic lineages of long ago, in a newly bourgeois world they are more accessible, common objects which can be sold and copied; albeit signs of the submission of the feminine body to a masculine authority they can also become a terrible weapon for freed and conquering female heroes; they embody a substance cherished by dreamers and craftsmen through which the fin-de-siècle text positions itself with regards to Zola’s hegemony and to other artistic practices of the time. Each of the three sections of the thesis (l’objet, le corps, la matière) explores one of these power struggles and is divided into two chapters presenting successively completing or competing points of view. This thesis ultimately leads to the identification of various aspects (rarity, duality nature / culture, etc.) by which gems become a favourite metaphor for authors of the end of the nineteenth century. Among these attributes, precious stones’ resistance – always in tension with the inexorable work of duration – leads to a better comprehension of the fin-de-siècle aesthetic and its equivocal, conflicting relations with the world and with time as it flies by.

This thesis examines the life and works of the English Calvinist clergyman Daniel Featley (1582-1645) through the lens of various printed and manuscript sources, especially his manuscript notebooks in Oxford. It links his story and thought to the broader themes of early Stuart religious, political, and intellectual history. Chapter one analyses the first thirty- five years of Featley’s life, exploring how many of the features that underpin the major themes of Featley’s career—and which reemerged throughout his life—were formed and nurtured during Featley’s early years in Oxford, Paris, and Cornwall. There he emerges as an ambitious young divine in pursuit of preferment; a shrewd minister, who attempted to position himself within the ecclesiastical spectrum; and a budding polemicist, whose polemical exchanges were motivated by a pastoral desire to protect the English Church. Chapter two examines Featley’s role as an ecclesiastical licenser and chaplain to Archbishop George Abbot in the 1610s and 1620s. It offers a reinterpretation of the view that Featley was a benign censor, explores how pastoral sensitivities influenced his censorship, and analyses the parallels between Featley’s licensing and his broader ecclesiastical aims. Moreover, by exploring how our historiographical understandings of licensing and censorship have been clouded by Featley’s attempts to conceal that an increasingly influential anti- Calvinist movement was seizing control of the licensing system and marginalizing Calvinist licensers in the 1620s, this chapter (along with chapter 7) addresses the broader methodological issues of how to weigh and evaluate various vantage points. Chapters three and four analyse the publications resulting from Featley’s debates with prominent Catholic and anti-Calvinist leaders. These chapters examine Featley’s use of patristic tradition in these disputes, the pastoral motivations that underpinned his polemical exchanges, and how Featley strategically issued these polemical publications to counter Catholicism and anti-Calvinism and to promulgate his own alternative version of orthodoxy at several crucial political moments during the 1620s and 1630s. Chapter five focuses on how, in the 1620s and 1630s, the themes of prayer and preaching in his devotional work, Ancilla Pietatis, and collection of seventy sermons, Clavis Mystica, were complementary rather than contradictory. It also builds on several of the major themes of the thesis by examining how pastoral and polemical motivations were at the heart of these works, how Featley continued to be an active opponent—rather than a passive bystander and victim—of Laudianism, and how he positioned himself politically to avoid being reprimanded by an increasingly hostile Laudian regime. Chapter six explores the theme of ‘moderation’ in the events of the 1640s surrounding Featley’s participation at the Westminster Assembly and his debates with separatists. It focuses on how Featley’s pursuit of the middle way was both: a self-protective ‘chameleon- like’ survival instinct—a rudder he used to navigate his way through the shifting political and ecclesiastical terrain of this period—and the very means by which he moderated and manipulated two polarized groups (decidedly convictional Parliamentarians and royalists) in order to reoccupy the middle ground, even while it was eroding away. Finally, chapter seven examines Featley’s ‘afterlife’ by analysing the reception of Featley through the lens of his post-1660 biographers and how these authors, particularly Featley’s nephew, John Featley, depicted him retrospectively in their biographical accounts in the service of their own post-restoration agendas. By analysing how Featley’s own ‘chameleon-like’ tendencies contributed to his later biographers’ distorted perception of him, this final chapter returns to the major methodological issues this thesis seeks to address. In short, by exploring the various roles he played in the early Stuart English Church and seeking to build on and contribute to recent historiographical research, this study sheds light on the links between a minister’s pastoral sensitivities and polemical engagements, and how ministers pursued preferment and ecclesiastically positioned themselves, their opponents, and their biographical subjects through print.