v anglickém jazyce The dissertation thesis with title "Presumptions of the formation of the modern men's suit" elaborates the general and unique features in the typology of men's court, military and ecclesiastical clothes. Research, which is based on written, iconographical and material sources, is aimed at environment at the court of the Austrian Habsburgs in early new ages from the end of the 15th century till beginning of the 90s of the 18th century having respect to history of clothing in the in Czech countries in the context with European clothing culture. The conception of the thesis goes out from the approach to men's suit in the history of clothing as to the cultural discipline. The main theoretic-metodological basis is investigsation of the general and the unique features in the concrete types of the men's clothing, which are characterized most of all of the contemporary construction (cut), material (cloth) and colours of the men's clothing and which has got the style-forming importance by means of these general features. The results of the research work amplifies not only the knowledge in the area of the clothing history, but also brings the possibility of practical application of this knowledge to increase of the cultural values of written, iconographical and material memories with time,...

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The Western regional magazine Sunset has been published under a series of owners and publishers since 1898. In 1928, Sunset was purchased by Lawrence Lane, a Midwestern magazine executive who transformed it from a failing turn-of-the-century, general interest publication about the West, into a successful magazine about living in the West for the Western middle-class. Sunset had always been a magazine for men and women, and one that appealed to both male and female intellectuals at the time Lane purchased it. Lane and his editors attempted to interject more rigid middle-class ideals into a magazine that had espoused ideas that were progressive and less structured. Lane's new strategy to compartmentalize Sunset's content into its four categories—gardening, the home, cooking, and travel—resulted in a magazine that was conventionally gendered. Tension due to this shift played out in the publication's new cooking department. This thesis traces the development of Sunset's cooking department between 1928 and 1938 under the direction of its creator and founding editor Genevieve Callahan through the examination and analysis of Sunset cooking features and oral histories. The original department, structured to model a middle-class domestic ideology, did not accommodate all of Sunset's readers. The Western intellectualism of pre-Lane readers and their tendency to be less bound by conventional gender roles in the kitchen carried over into Sunset's cooking department via reader recipe contributions. These Western cooks included men and women whose foodways deviated from that of the typical middle-class housewife. Callahan experimented throughout the cooking department's first decade by shifting its editorial framework and softening her home economics rigidity to create a department that was inclusive of women and men who cooked both inside and outside the kitchen. The changes made to the department over that decade illustrate how editorial experimentation reconciled a new middle-class-oriented cooking department to accommodate Western cooks less apt to model traditional gender roles.

The aim of the study has been to highlight men's experiences of their violence against their former partners. The questions that answered the purpose of the study have focused on the reasons why men tend to use violence against their partners and whether they subsequently take responsibility for their violence and if so, how this is the case. The study is of a qualitative approach and is based on five interviews with men who have been treated for their violent behavior. The theories that the study leans towards are the social psychological and sociological perspectives with a focus on social heritage and the social learning theory. The study's empirical data and the causes of the violence is also linked to the external factors of the ecological perspective, such as drugs, alcohol, economic vulnerability and crime. Other theoretical perspectives and explanatory models that are used to explain men's acts of violence against their former partner are the disfavor perspective in the individual psychological perspective, the gender power perspective and system theory explanatory models. The result of the study indicate that the causes of men's violence against women are often explained as the woman's own fault when the man often believes that the woman has provoked him to take violence. Many times, however, there are several different reasons for men's violence against women who are interwoven in several different theoretical explanatory models. Many of the men in the study still do not take responsibility for their acts of violence and do not want to identify themselves as a women abusers, even though they have been treated and in therapy for the violence against their former partner. However, some of the men in the study also found that the treatment helped them understand the causes of the violence and that they also have a responsibility as it comes to the violence they subjected their former partners to. / Studiens syfte har varit att belysa mäns erfarenheter av sitt våld mot sina tidigare partners. Frågeställningarna som besvarat studiens syfte har fokuserat på orsakerna kring varför män brukar våld mot sina partners och huruvida de i efterhand tar ansvar för sitt våld och hur i så fall detta ter sig. Studien är av kvalitativ ansats och grundar sig på fem intervjuer med män som har gått i behandling för sitt våldsamma beteende. De teorier som studien lutar sig mot är de socialpsykologiska och sociologiska perspektiven med fokus på det sociala arvet samt den sociala inlärningsteorin. Studiens empiri och orsakerna till våldet kopplas även samman med det ekologiska perspektivet och då med fokus på de yttre faktorerna så som droger, alkohol, ekonomisk utsatthet och kriminalitet. Andra teoretiska perspektiv och förklaringsmodeller som används för att förklara männens våldshandlingar gentemot sin före detta partner är vanmaktsperspektivet, det individualpsykologiska perspektivet och könsmaktsperspektivet. Studiens resultat pekar på att orsakerna till mäns våld mot kvinnor ofta förklaras som kvinnans eget fel då mannen många gånger anser att kvinnan har provocerat honom till att ta till våld. Många gånger kan det dock finnas flera olika orsaker till mäns våld mot kvinnor som är sammanvävda i flera olika teoretiska förklaringsmodeller. Flera av männen i studien tar fortfarande inte ansvar för sina våldshandlingar och vill inte identifiera sig som kvinnomisshandlare, trots att de gått i behandling och i terapi för våldet mot sin tidigare partner. Vissa av männen i studien tyckte dock att behandlingen hjälpte dem till att förstå orsakerna till våldet och att de även har ett ansvar då det kommer till våldet som de utsatt sina tidigare partners för.

The study was undertaken to deepen understanding of living with a spinal cord injury (SCI) in the rural communities of the Eastern Cape Province, South Africa (RSA). The OR Tambo District Municipality, which was selected for its accessibility to the researcher, is virtually rural, the infrastructure is poorly developed and there is low socio-economic activity in the rural areas of the old Transkei. In the RSA services for management and rehabilitation of SCIs varies from province to province. A Heideggerian phenomenological approach was used to interpret the meaning of living with SCI persons in a rural community. The purpose was to describe and interpret what being-in the-world as a spinal cord injured person meant to the particpants. A key assumption in phenomenology is that understanding human beings and their actions is best achieved through examination of human experiences. Experience, including experience with living with SCI, offers itself as a record of human encounters, the interface between persons and their world, and experience can only be understood in terms of background and the social context of the experience (Pateman & Johnson 2000: 51). Phenomenological interviews with ten people living with SCI explored their experience. The overall goal was to increase awareness of their experiences of living with SCI, and to encourage incorporation of knowledge gained into nursing practice. The central question in the study was `What is it like to live with a spinal cord injury in a rural community? Data were analysed according to Heideggerian hermeneutic phenomenology. Two main themes were identified, namely reconceptualising being-in-the-world as a person with a disability; and being-with-each-other: experiencing being excluded, objectified and marginalized. The participants engaged in a process of reconstructing their identities following the traumatic loss of sensory and motor functioning. Data reflect the social and economic context in which living with SCI is experienced. The respondents' life experiences were influenced by socio-political, economic and historical factors, namely geographic location, poor infrastructure, poverty, low educational status, and unemployment and the community at large. It was noted that participants experienced difficulties in several areas in their daily life realm; naming, coping with health and disability problems, family interactions and relationships, and non-accessibility of amenities, including their own dwellings. In addition, being a person living with an SCI in the rural communities of the OR Tambo District Municipality carries a high physical and social risk due to lack of resources. The inability to live up to generally expected social roles led to role dissatisfaction. There is an urgent need for social support to overcome the negative societal attitudes experienced. They are forced into isolation with a limited social life and are poorly integrated into the communities in which they live. Most of what the participants raised pointed towards inadequate preparation for the outside world. Therefore, a holistic approach to rehabilitation is recommended, as holism means addressing the physical, social, emotional and cognitive needs. Accordingly, the researcher developed guidelines for facilitating community integration. In conclusion, understanding how people experience living with SCI in a rural community is an essential prerequisite to the development of appropriate strategies to facilitate community integration. / Health Studies / D. Litt et Phil (Health Studies)

The study was undertaken to deepen understanding of living with a spinal cord injury (SCI) in the rural communities of the Eastern Cape Province, South Africa (RSA). The OR Tambo District Municipality, which was selected for its accessibility to the researcher, is virtually rural, the infrastructure is poorly developed and there is low socio-economic activity in the rural areas of the old Transkei. In the RSA services for management and rehabilitation of SCIs varies from province to province. A Heideggerian phenomenological approach was used to interpret the meaning of living with SCI persons in a rural community. The purpose was to describe and interpret what being-in the-world as a spinal cord injured person meant to the particpants. A key assumption in phenomenology is that understanding human beings and their actions is best achieved through examination of human experiences. Experience, including experience with living with SCI, offers itself as a record of human encounters, the interface between persons and their world, and experience can only be understood in terms of background and the social context of the experience (Pateman & Johnson 2000: 51). Phenomenological interviews with ten people living with SCI explored their experience. The overall goal was to increase awareness of their experiences of living with SCI, and to encourage incorporation of knowledge gained into nursing practice. The central question in the study was `What is it like to live with a spinal cord injury in a rural community? Data were analysed according to Heideggerian hermeneutic phenomenology. Two main themes were identified, namely reconceptualising being-in-the-world as a person with a disability; and being-with-each-other: experiencing being excluded, objectified and marginalized. The participants engaged in a process of reconstructing their identities following the traumatic loss of sensory and motor functioning. Data reflect the social and economic context in which living with SCI is experienced. The respondents' life experiences were influenced by socio-political, economic and historical factors, namely geographic location, poor infrastructure, poverty, low educational status, and unemployment and the community at large. It was noted that participants experienced difficulties in several areas in their daily life realm; naming, coping with health and disability problems, family interactions and relationships, and non-accessibility of amenities, including their own dwellings. In addition, being a person living with an SCI in the rural communities of the OR Tambo District Municipality carries a high physical and social risk due to lack of resources. The inability to live up to generally expected social roles led to role dissatisfaction. There is an urgent need for social support to overcome the negative societal attitudes experienced. They are forced into isolation with a limited social life and are poorly integrated into the communities in which they live. Most of what the participants raised pointed towards inadequate preparation for the outside world. Therefore, a holistic approach to rehabilitation is recommended, as holism means addressing the physical, social, emotional and cognitive needs. Accordingly, the researcher developed guidelines for facilitating community integration. In conclusion, understanding how people experience living with SCI in a rural community is an essential prerequisite to the development of appropriate strategies to facilitate community integration. / Health Studies / D. Litt et Phil (Health Studies)

Indiana University-Purdue University Indianapolis (IUPUI) / Expressions of German-American culture in Indianapolis reached a high point in the first decade of the twentieth century. Social clubs such as the Socialer Turnverein and the Maennerchor enriched the city’s cultural life through musical performances and athletic classes and provided a social outlet for their members. During this decade, these clubs played a large role in organizing two national festivals held in Indianapolis: a Turnfest (gymnastics festival) in 1905 and a Saengerfest (singing festival) in 1908. Examining the planning and implementation of the Turnfest and Saengerfest sheds light on how club leaders responded to their social and political environment at the beginning of the twentieth century, how the respective clubs’ members conceived of their ethnic and club identities, and how they represented these identities in the festivals.

Indiana University-Purdue University Indianapolis (IUPUI) / The narrative of the Fall Creek Parkway YMCA is central to the record of the historically black community northwest of downtown Indianapolis, which was established in the early 1900s, as well as reflective of the urban revitalization projects and demographic fluxes that changed this community beginning in the 1960s. This is because the conflict between administrators of the Fall Creek YMCA branch and Greater Indianapolis YMCA or Metropolitan YMCA over the viability of the branch at 10th Street and Indiana Avenue was a microcosm of the conflict between community and city leaders over the necessity of large-scale forces. This thesis specifically examines the large-scale forces of urban revitalization, defined in the study as the city’s implementation of construction projects in Indianapolis’ downtown area, and school desegregation, which was the focus of a federal court case that affected Indianapolis Public Schools. Delineating the contested visions held by Fall Creek and Metropolitan YMCA administrators about how the Fall Creek YMCA should have functioned within an environment changed by urban revitalization and school desegregation is crucial to understanding the controversies that surrounded major construction projects and desegregation measures that took place in the downtown area of Indianapolis during the late twentieth century. The study therefore understands the conflict between the Metropolitan and Fall Creek YMCAs over targeted membership groups and autonomy as a reflection of changes in the branch’s surrounding area. Moreover, the study utilizes such conflict as a lens to the larger conflict that took place in Indianapolis between the agents of citywide urban revitalization plans and community leaders who opposed the implementation of these plans, as well as school desegregation measures, at the expense of the historically black community located in the near-downtown area of the city. This thesis is informed and humanized, respectively, by archival research and oral history interviews with individuals who were involved in either the administration or advocacy of the Fall Creek YMCA between 1971 and 2003.