Yes / This research paper presents an incompressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics (ISPH) technique to investigate a regular wave overtopping on the coastal structure of different types. The SPH method is a mesh-free particle modeling approach that can efficiently treat the large deformation of free surface. The incompressible SPH approach employs a true hydrodynamic formulation to solve the fluid pressure that has less pressure fluctuations. The generation of flow turbulence during the wave breaking and overtopping is modeled by a subparticle scale (SPS) turbulence model. Here the ISPH model is used to investigate the wave overtopping over a coastal structure with and without the porous material. The computations disclosed the features of flow velocity, turbulence, and pressure distributions for different structure types and indicated that the existence of a layer of porous material can effectively reduce the wave impact pressure and overtopping rate. The proposed numerical model is expected to provide a promising practical tool to investigate the complicated wave-structure interactions. / Nazarbayev University Seed Grant, entitled “Environmental assessment of sediment pollution impact on hydropower plants”. S. Shao also acknowledges the Royal Society Research Grant (2008/R2 RG080561)

This research is part of the extension of the SRICOS-EFA method for predicting the maximum scour depth history around the bridge abutment. The basic objective is to establish the equation for predicting the maximum bed shear stress around the abutment at the initial condition of scouring. CHEN3D (Computerized Hydraulic ENgineering program for 3D flow) program is utilized to perform numerical simulations and predict bed shear stress before scouring. The Chimera technique incorporated in CHEN3D makes the program capable of simulating all kinds of complex geometry and moving boundary. CHEN3D program has been proven to be an accurate method to predict flow field and boundary shear stress in many fields and used in bridge scour study in cohesive soils for more than ten years. The maximum bed shear stress around abutment in open rectangular channel is studied numerically and the equation is proposed. Reynolds number is the dominant parameter, and the parametric studies have been performed based on the dimensional analysis. The influence of channel contraction ratio, abutment aspect ratio, water depth, abutment shape, and skew angle has been investigated, and the corresponding correction This research is part of the extension of the SRICOS-EFA method for predicting the maximum scour depth history around the bridge abutment. The basic objective is to establish the equation for predicting the maximum bed shear stress around the abutment at the initial condition of scouring. CHEN3D (Computerized Hydraulic ENgineering program for 3D flow) program is utilized to perform numerical simulations and predict bed shear stress before scouring. The Chimera technique incorporated in CHEN3D makes the program capable of simulating all kinds of complex geometry and moving boundary. CHEN3D program has been proven to be an accurate method to predict flow field and boundary shear stress in many fields and used in bridge scour study in cohesive soils for more than ten years. The maximum bed shear stress around abutment in open rectangular channel is studied numerically and the equation is proposed. Reynolds number is the dominant parameter, and the parametric studies have been performed based on the dimensional analysis. The influence of channel contraction ratio, abutment aspect ratio, water depth, abutment shape, and skew angle has been investigated, and the corresponding correction factors have been proposed. The study of the compound channel configuration is conducted further to extend the application of the proposed equation. Numerical simulations of overtopping flow in straight rectangular channel, straight compound channel and channel bend have been conducted. The bridge deck is found to be able to change the flow distribution and the bed shear stress will increase significantly once overtopping. The influence of the channel bend curvature, abutment location in the channel bend, and the abutment shape is also investigated. The corresponding variation of the bed shear stress has been concluded. The scour models, including the erosion rate function, roughness effect, and the turbulence kinetic energy, have been proposed and incorporated into the CHEN3D program. One flume test case in NCHRP 24-15(2) has been simulated to determine the parameters for the roughness and the turbulence kinetic energy. The prediction of the maximum scour depth history with the proposed model is in good agreement with the measurement for most cases. The influence of overtopping flow on the abutment scour development is also studied and the corresponding correction factor is proposed.

Kyoto University (京都大学) / 0048 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(工学) / 甲第14136号 / 工博第2970号 / 新制||工||1441(附属図書館) / 26442 / UT51-2008-N453 / 京都大学大学院工学研究科社会基盤工学専攻 / (主査)教授 中川 一, 教授 関口 秀雄, 教授 藤田 正治 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当

There is a good deal of uncertainty and sensitivity in the results for wave impact. In a practical situation, many parameters such as the wave climate will not be known with any accuracy especially the frequency and severity of wave breaking. Even if the wave spectrum is known, this is usually recorded offshore, requiring same sort of (linear) transfer function to estimate the wave climate at the seawall. What is more, the higher spectral moments will generally be unknown. Wave breaking, according to linear wave theory, is known to depend on the wave spectrum, see Srokosz (1986) and Greenhow (1989). Not only is the wave climate unknown, but the aeration of the water will also be subject to uncertainty. This affects rather dramatically the speed of sound in the water/bubble mixture and hence the value of the acoustic pressure that acts as a maximum cutoff for pressure calculated by any incompressible model. The results are also highly sensitive to the angle of alignment of the wave front and seawall. Here we consider the worst case scenario of perfect alignment. Given the above, it seems sensible to exploit the simple pressure impulse model used in this thesis. Thus Cooker (1990) proposed using the pressure impulse P(x, y) that is the time integral of the pressure over the duration of the impact. This results in a simplified, but much more stable, model of wave impact on the coastal structures, and forms the basis of this thesis, as follows: Chapter 1 is an overview about this topic, a brief summary of the work which will follow and a summary of the contribution of this thesis. Chapter 2 gives a literature review of wave impact, theoretically and experimentally. The topics covered include total impulse, moment impulse and overtopping. A summary of the present state of the theory and Cooker’s model is also presented in Chapter 2. In Chapter 3 and Chapter 4, we extend the work of Greenhow (2006). He studied the berm and ditch problems, see Chapter 3, and the missing block problem in Chapter 4, and solved the problems by using a basis function method. I solve these problems in nondimensionlised variables by using a hybrid collocation method in Chapter 3 and by using the same method as Greenhow (2006) in Chapter 4. The works are extended by calculating the total impulse and moment impulse, and the maximum pressure arising from the wave impact for each problem. These quantities will be very helpful from a practical point of view for engineers and designers of seawalls. The mathematical equations governing the fluid motion and its boundary conditions are presented. The deck problem together with the mathematical formulation and boundary conditions for the problem is presented in Chapters 5 and 6 by using a hybrid collocation method. For this case, the basis function method fails due to hyperbolic terms in these formulations growing exponentially. The formulations also include a secular term, not present in Cooker’s formulation. For Chapter 5, the wave hits the wall in a horizontal direction and for Chapter 6, the wave hits beneath the deck in a vertical direction. These problems are important for offshore structures where providing adequate freeboard for decks contributes very significantly to the cost of the structure. Chapter 7 looks at what happens when we have a vertical baffle. The mathematical formulation and the boundary conditions for four cases of baffles which have different positions are presented in this chapter. We use a basis function method to solve the mathematical formulation, and total impulse and moment impulse are investigated for each problem. These problems are not, perhaps, very relevant to coastal structures. However, they are pertinent to wave impacts in sloshing tanks where baffles are used to detune the natural tank frequencies away from environmental driving frequencies (e.g ship roll due to wave action) and to damp the oscillations by shedding vortices. They also provide useful information for the design of oscillating water column wave energy devices. Finally, conclusions from the research and recommendations for future work are presented in Chapter 8.

Coastal flooding from wave overtopping causes considerable damage. Presently, to model wave overtopping one can either make use of physical model tests or empirical tools such as those described in the EurOtop manual. Both these methods have limitations; therefore, a quick and reliable numerical model for wave overtopping would be a very useful tool for a coastal engineer.This research aims to test and develop a numerical model (in one horizontal dimension) for nearshore waves, runup and overtopping. The Shallow Water And Boussinesq (SWAB) model solves the Boussinesq-type equations of Madsen and Sorensen (1992) for non breaking waves and the nonlinear shallow water equations for breaking waves. Through testing against a range of physical model data using regular and random waves, the SWAB model's transfer from non-breaking to breaking waves was optimised. It was found that a wave height to water depth ratio worked consistently well as a breaking criterion.A set of physical model tests were carried out, based on previous field testing of wave overtopping that had previously taken place at Anchorsholme, Blackpool. The SWAB model was used to simulate some of these physical model tests, giving good results for mean overtopping rates. SWAB models the force imposed by steep walls and recurve walls on the incident flow; this force was found to have a significant effect on overtopping rates. A comparison was made between mean overtopping rates from the SWAB model, the physical model tests, empirically-based software (PC-Overtopping) and the field data. The physical model and SWAB results compared well with the field data, though the empirical software gave large overestimates.The SWAB model was applied to the analysis of overtopping at Walcott, Norfolk. It was found that beach levels affected overtopping rates, but not as much as different randomly phased wave trains. A simulation of a recent storm event was performed, with overtopping rates being slightly lower than those reported by local residents. A joint probability analysis showed that the predicted frequency of such an event was in line with these reports.An alternative modelling technique was also tested, where a spectral energy model was coupled with a nonlinear shallow water solver. Results for wave runup parameters were very accurate, when the coupling location is at the seaward edge of the surf zone. Extension of this modelling technique into two horizontal dimensions would be more straightforward than with the SWAB model.

[EN] The influence of the type of armor on wave overtopping on mound breakwaters is usually represented by the roughness factor. However, different values of roughness factor for the same armor unit are given in the literature. Thus, the roughness factor depends not only on the type of armor, number of layers and permeability but also on the formula and database considered. In the present thesis, a new methodology based on bootstrapping techniques is developed and applied to characterize the roughness factors for different armor units. Differences up to 20% appeared when comparing the optimum roughness factors with those given in the literature. Armor porosity greatly affects the roughness factor and the armor stability: higher armor porosities reduce wave overtopping as well as hydraulic stability. Therefore, armor porosity values usually recommended in the literature should be used to avoid damage during lifetime. Formulas with few variables are easy to apply but they allow the roughness factor to absorb the information not explicitly included in the formula. However, the CLASH neural network avoids this problem and gives excellent estimation for wave overtopping on mound breakwaters. In this thesis, a new formula which emulates the behavior of the CLASH neural network is developed. The new formula has 16 parameters, six dimensionless input variables (Rc/Hm0, Ir, Rc/h, Gc/Hm0, Ac/Rc and a toe berm variable based on Rc/h) and two reduction factors (¿f and ¿ß). The new formula is built-up after systematic simulations using the CLASH neural network and provides the lowest prediction error. Wave overtopping on mound breakwaters can be minimized by increasing the crest freeboard, usually with a concrete crown wall. Crown walls must resist wave loads and armor earth pressure to be stable. In the present study, small-scale test results with cube- and Cubipod-armored mound breakwaters are used to develop a new estimator for calculating horizontal and up-lift forces from waves. The new formulas include four dimensionless input variables (¿f Ru0.1%/Rc, (Rc-Ac)/Ch, ¿(L_m/G_c ) and Fc/Ch) and the crown wall geometry. The roughness factor selected for overtopping prediction is used to consider the type of armor. Up-lift forces decreased sharply with increasing foundation levels. The new formulas provide the lowest error when predicting wave forces on crown walls. / [ES] La influencia del tipo de elemento del manto sobre le rebase de diques en talud se caracteriza habitualmente mediante el factor de rugosidad (¿f). Sin embargo, en la literatura existen diferentes valores del factor de rugosidad para el mismo tipo de elemento. El factor de rugosidad no depende solo del tipo de elemento, número de capas y permeabilidad del núcleo sino también de la formulación y de la base de datos empleada. En la presente tesis se desarrolla y aplica una nueva metodología basada en técnicas de bootstrapping para caracterizar estadísticamente el factor de rugosidad de diferentes elementos (entre ellos el Cubípodo) sobre diferentes formulaciones de rebase. Se observan diferencias de hasta el 20% entre los factores de rugosidad óptimos y los que se proporcionan en la literatura. La porosidad del manto afecta notablemente al factor de rugosidad pero también a la estabilidad del manto; mayores porosidades proporcionan menor rebase pero también menor estabilidad hidráulica. Por ello, las porosidades de diseño recomendadas deben emplearse para evitar daños durante la vida útil. Fórmulas con pocas variables de entrada son sencillas de emplear pero absorben a través del factor de rugosidad toda la información que no se incluye explícitamente en las variables de entrada. En cambio, la red neuronal de CLASH evita en gran medida estos inconvenientes y al mismo tiempo proporciona excelentes para estimar el rebase sobre diques en talud convencionales. En la presente tesis se ha desarrollado una fórmula explícita que permite emular el comportamiento de la red neuronal de CLASH. La nueva fórmula posee 16 parámetros, seis variables de entrada (Rc/Hm0, ¿0,-1, Rc/h, Gc/Hm0, Ac/Rc y una variable para representar a la berma de pie basada en Rc/h) y dos factores de reducción (¿f y ¿ß). La nueva fórmula se construye en base a simulaciones controladas empleando la red neuronal de CLASH y proporciona el menor error en la predicción de rebase sobre diques en talud de entre los estimadores estudiados. Una de las maneras más efectivas de disminuir el rebase sobre diques en talud es incrementar la cota de coronación mediante un espaldón de hormigón. Estas estructuras sufren el impacto del oleaje y deben ser diseñadas para resistirlo. En la presente tesis se han empleado ensayos de laboratorio de cubos y Cubípodos para desarrollar una nueva fórmula que permita calcular las fuerzas horizontales y verticales del oleaje sobre el espaldón. Las nuevas fórmulas incluyen la influencia de cuatro variables adimensionales (¿f Ru0.1%/Rc, (Rc-Ac)/Ch, ¿(L_m/G_c ) y Fc/Ch) y de la geometría del espaldón. Incluyen la influencia del tipo de elemento mediante el factor de rugosidad al igual que las fórmulas de rebase. Las fuerzas verticales disminuyen significativamente con el aumento de la cota de cimentación. Las nuevas fórmulas proporcionan el menor error de predicción sobre los registros de laboratorio analizados. / [CAT] La influència del tipus d'element del mantell principal en l'ultrapassament dics en talús és caracteritza habitualment mitjançant el factor de rugositat (¿f). En canvi, en la literatura existeixen diferents valors del factor de rugositat per al mateix tipus d'element. Així doncs, el factor de rugositat no depèn només del tipus d'element, nombre de capes i permeabilitat del nucli però també de la formulació i de la base de dades utilitzada. En la present tesi es desenvolupa i aplica una nova metodologia basada en tècniques de bootstrapping per a caracteritzar estadísticament el factor de rugositat de diferent elements (entre ells el Cubípode) utilitzant diferents formulacions d'ultrapassament. S'observen diferències fins al 20% entre els factors de rugositat òptims i els que apareixen en la literatura. La porositat del mantell afecta notablement el factor de rugositat però també a l'estabilitat del mantell; majors porositats proporcionen menor ultrapassament però també menor estabilitat hidràulica. Per això, les porositats de disseny recomanades deuen emprar-se per a evitar danys durant la vida útil. Formules amb poques variables d'entrada són senzilles d'utilitzar però absorbeixen mitjançant el factor del factor de rugositat tota la informació que no s'inclou de manera explícita en les variables d'entrada. D'altra banda, la xarxa neuronal de CLASH evita en gran mesura aquests inconvenients i al mateix temps proporciona excel·lents resultats per a estimar l'ultrapassament sobre els dics en talús convencionals. En la present tesi s'ha desenvolupat una formulació explícita que permet emular el comportament de la xarxa neuronal de CLASH. La nova formulació té 16 paràmetres, sis variables d'entrada (Rc/Hm0, Ir, Rc/h, Gc/Hm0, Ac/Rc i una variable per a representar la berma de peu basada en Rc/h) i dos factors de reducció (¿f y ¿ß). La nova fórmula es construeix mitjançant simulacions controlades amb la xarxa neuronal de CLASH i proporciona el menor error en la predicció de l'ultrapassament sobre dics en talús de entre els estimadors analitzats. Una de les maneres més efectives de disminuir l'ultrapassament sobre dics en talús és incrementar la cota de coronació mitjançant un espatller de formigó. Aquestes estructures sofreixen l'impacte de les ones i deuen ser dissenyades per a resistir. En la present tesi, s'utilitzen assajos de laboratori de cubs i Cubípodes per a desenvolupar una nova formulació per a calcular les forces horitzontals i verticals causades per l'onatge en l'espatller. Les noves fórmules inclouen la influència de quatre variables adimensionals (¿f Ru0.1%/Rc, (Rc-Ac)/Ch, ¿(L_m/G_c ) y Fc/Ch) i de la geometria de l'espatller. Inclouen la influència del tipus d'element mitjançant el factor de rugositat al igual que les fórmules d'ultrapassament. Les forces verticals disminueixen significativament amb l'augment de la cota de cimentació. Les noves fórmules proporcionen el menor error en la predicció sobre els registres de laboratori analitzats. / Molines Llodra, J. (2016). Wave overtopping and crown wall stability of cube and Cubipod-armored mound breakwaters [Tesis doctoral no publicada]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/62178 / TESIS

[ES] El cambio climático y la conciencia social sobre el impacto de las infraestructuras en el medio está llevando a la necesidad de diseñar diques en talud con cotas de coronación reducidas frente a eventos de rebase más extremos. Además, la mayoría de estos diques se construyen en zonas de profundidades reducidas, donde el oleaje rompe a causa de la limitación por fondo. Estudios recientes apuntan a la necesidad de considerar no sólo la caudal medio de rebase (q) sino también el máximo volumen individual de rebase (Vmax), el espesor de lámina de agua (OLT) y la velocidad del flujo de rebase (OFV) en el diseño de la cota de coronación de un dique en talud según criterios de rebase. No obstante, existen pocos estudios en la literatura científica centrados en Vmax en estructuras costeras sometidas a oleaje limitado por fondo. Además, estos estudios proporcionan resultados contradictorios en relación a la influencia de la limitación por fondo del oleaje sobre Vmax. En cuanto a OLT y OFV, no se han encontrado estudios en la literatura científica que permitan su predicción en diques en talud. En esta tesis doctoral, se han realizado ensayos físicos 2D en diques en talud rebasables (0.3≤Rc/Hm0≤2.5) sin espaldón y con tres mantos principales (Cubípodo®-1L, cubo-2L y escollera-2L) sobre dos pendientes de fondo suaves (m=2% and 4%) en condiciones de oleaje limitado por fondo (0.2≤Hm0/h≤0.9). Vmax junto con q son las variables más recomendadas en la literatura científica para diseñar la cota de coronación de diques en talud según criterios de rebase. En el presente estudio, los mejores resultados en la estimación de Vmax*=Vmax/(gHm0T012) se han obtenido empleando la función de distribución Weibull de dos parámetros con un coeficiente de determinación R2=0.833. Durante la fase de diseño de un dique en talud, es necesario predecir q para calcular Vmax cuando se emplean los métodos dados en la literatura científica. Por tanto, se debe estimar q con fines de diseño si no se dispone de observaciones directas. En caso de emplear la red neuronal CLASH NN para estimar q (R2=0.636), la bondad de ajuste de la función de distribución Weibull de dos parámetros propuesta en esta tesis para predecir Vmax* es R2=0.617. Así, el ratio entre Vmax* medido y estimado cae dentro del rango de 1/2 a 2 (banda de confianza del 90%) cuando se emplea q estimado con CLASH NN. Los nuevos estimadores desarrollados en la presente disertación proporcionan resultados satisfactorios en la predicción de Vmax* con un método más simple que aquellos propuestos en la literatura científica. No se ha encontrado una influencia significativa de la pendiente de fondo ni de la limitación por fondo del oleaje sobre Vmax* en este estudio. OLT y OFV están directamente relacionados con la estabilidad hidráulica de la coronación del dique y la seguridad peatonal frente a rebase. Por tanto, se requiere estimar OLT y OFV en la coronación del dique para diseñar apropiadamente su cota de coronación empleando criterios de rebase. En este estudio, se han empleado redes neuronales para desarrollar nuevos estimadores explícitos que permiten predecir OLT y OFV superados por el 2% del oleaje incidente con un alto coeficiente de determinación (0.866≤R2≤0.867). El número de cifras significativas apropiado para los coeficientes experimentales de dichos estimadores se ha determinado en base a su variabilidad. El punto óptimo en el que las características del oleaje deben ser estimadas para predecir OLT y OFV se ha identificado a una distancia de 3h desde el pie de la estructura (siendo h la profundidad a pie de dique). La pendiente de fondo tiene influencia sobre OLT y OFV. Los valores más extremos de OLT y OFV se han descrito empleando las distribuciones Exponencial de un parámetro y Rayleigh, respectivamente, con resultados satisfactorios (0.803≤R2≤0.812). / [CA] El canvi climàtic i la consciència social sobre l'impacte de les infraestructures al medi està portant a la necessitat de dissenyar dics en talús amb cotes de coronació reduïdes front a esdeveniments d'ultrapassament més extrems. A més, la majoria dels dics es construeixen en zones amb profunditats reduïdes on l'onatge es trenca a causa de la limitació per fons. Estudis recents apunten a la necessitat de considerar no solament el cabal mitjà de sobrepasse (q) sinó també el màxim volum individual de sobrepasse (Vmax), l'espessor de la làmina d'aigua (OLT) i la velocitat del flux de sobrepasse (OFV) pel disseny de la cota de coronació d'un dic en talús segons criteris de sobrepasse. No obstant, existeixen pocs estudis a la literatura científica centrats en Vmax en estructures costeres sotmeses a onatge limitat per fons. Addicionalment, aquests estudis proporcionen resultats contradictoris en relació a la influència de la limitació per fons de l'onatge sobre Vmax. Quant a OLT i OFV, no s'han trobat estudis a la literatura científica que permeten la seua predicció a dics en talús. En aquesta tesi doctoral, s'han realitzat assajos físics 2D amb dics en talús amb sobrepassos rellevants (0.3≤Rc/Hm0≤2.5) sense espatlló i amb tres elements al mantell principal (Cubípode-1L, cubs-2L i esculleres-2L) ubicats sobre pendents de fons suaus (m=2% i 4%) en condicions d'onatge limitat pel fons (0.2≤Hm0/h≤0.9). Vmax conjuntament amb q són les variables més recomanades a la literatura científica per dissenyar la cota de coronació en dics en talús segons criteris d'ultrapassament. Al present estudi, els millors resultats en l'estimació de Vmax*=Vmax/(gHm0T012) s'han obtingut utilitzant la funció de distribució Weibull de dos paràmetres amb un elevat coeficient de determinació R2=0.833. Durant la fase de disseny d'un dic en talús, és necessari predir q per calcular Vmax quan s'utilitzen els mètodes donats a la literatura científica. Per tant, es deu estimar q amb fins de disseny si no es disposa d'observacions directes. Si s'aplica la xarxa neuronal de CLASH NN per estimar q (R2=0.636), la bondat d'ajust de la funció de distribució Weibull de dos paràmetres proposada a aquesta tesi per predir Vmax* és R2=0.617. Així doncs, el ràtio entre el Vmax* mesurat i estimat es troba dins del rang de 1/2 a 2 (banda de confiança del 90%) quan s'usa q predit amb CLASH NN. Els nous estimadors desenvolupats a aquesta dissertació proporcionen resultats satisfactoris en la predicció de Vmax* amb un mètode més senzill que aquells proposats a la literatura científica. No s'ha trobat una influència significativa de la pendent de fons ni de la limitació de l'onatge per fons sobre Vmax* a aquest estudi. OLT i OFV estan directament relacionats amb l'estabilitat hidràulica de la coronació de dics i la seguretat de vianants front a ultrapassaments. Per tant, es requereix estimar OLT i OFV en la coronació de dics per dissenyar apropiadament la seua cota de coronació utilitzant criteris de sobrepasse. En aquest estudi, s'han usat xarxes neuronals per desenvolupar nous estimadors explícits que permeten predir OLT i OFV superats pel 2% de l'onatge incident amb un elevat coeficient de determinació (0.866≤R2≤0.867). El nombre de xifres significatives apropiat per als coeficients experimentals dels mencionats estimadors s'ha determinat basant-se en la seua variabilitat. El punt òptim on determinar les característiques de l'onatge deuen ser estimades per predir OLT i OFV s'ha identificat a una distància de 3h des del peu de l'estructura (on h és la profunditat a peu de dic). La pendent de fons té influència sobre OLT i OFV. Els valors més extrems de OLT i OFV s'han descrit amb les distribucions Exponencial d'un paràmetre i Rayleigh, respectivament, amb resultats satisfactoris (0.803≤R2≤0.812). / [EN] Climate change and the social concern about the impact of infrastructures is leading to mound breakwaters with reduced crest freeboards facing higher extreme overtopping events. In addition, most mound breakwaters are built in the surf zone where depth-limited wave breaking takes place. Recent studies point out the need of considering not only the mean wave overtopping discharge (q) but also the maximum individual wave overtopping volume (Vmax), the overtopping layer thickness (OLT) and the overtopping flow velocity (OFV) when designing mound breakwater crest elevation using overtopping criteria. However, few studies in the literature are focused on Vmax on coastal structures under depth-limited breaking wave conditions. In addition, those few studies report contradictory conclusions regarding the significance of depth-limited breaking waves on Vmax. With respect to OLT and OFV, no studies are found in the literature for their prediction on mound breakwaters. In this PhD thesis, 2D physical model tests were conducted on overtopped mound breakwaters (0.3≤Rc/Hm0≤2.5) without a crown wall armored with three armor layers (Cubipod®-1L, cube-2L and rock-2L) on two gentle bottom slopes (m=2% and 4%) in depth-limited breaking wave conditions (0.2≤Hm0/h≤0.9). Vmax together with q are the most recommended variables in the literature to design mound breakwater crest elevation based on overtopping criteria. In the present study, the 2-parameter Weibull distribution provides the best results when estimating Vmax*=Vmax/(gHm0T012) with coefficient of determination R2=0.833. During the design phase of a mound breakwater, q is needed to predict Vmax using methods given in the literature. Thus, q must be estimated for design purposes when direct observations are not available. If CLASH NN is used to estimate q (R2=0.636), the goodness-of-fit of the 2-parameter Weibull distribution proposed in this thesis to predict Vmax* is R2=0.617. Hence, the ratio between the estimated and measured Vmax* falls within the range 1/2 to 2 (90% error band) when q is predicted using CLASH NN. The new estimators derived in this study provide satisfactory estimations of Vmax* with a method simpler than those found in the literature. Neither the bottom slope nor the depth-induced wave breaking seem to significantly influence the dimensionless Vmax* in this study. OLT and OFV are directly related to the hydraulic stability of the armored crest and the pedestrian safety. Thus, OLT and OFV are required to properly design crest elevation using overtopping criteria. Neural Networks (NNs) are used in this study to develop new explicit unbiased estimators for the OLT and OFV exceeded by 2% of the incoming waves with a high coefficient of determination (0.866≤R2≤0.867). The appropriate number of significant figures of the empirical coefficients of such estimators is selected according to their variability. The optimum point where wave characteristics are determined to predict OLT and OFV was identified at a distance of 3h from the toe of the structure (where h is the water depth at the toe of the structure). The bottom slope does influence both OLT and OFV. The most extreme values of OLT and OFV are described with the 1-parameter Exponential and Rayleigh distribution functions, respectively, with satisfactory results (0.803≤R2≤0.812). / Al Ministerio de Educación, Cultura y Deporte, por la financiación brindada con el programa de Formación de Profesorado Universitario (FPU16/05081). Al Ministerio de Economía y Competitividad, por la financiación de los proyectos ESBECO (EStabilidad hidráulica del manto, BErmas y COronación de diques en talud con rebase y rotura por fondo, BIA2015-70436-R) y HOLOBREAK (Estabilidad Hidráulica y Transmisión de Diques Rompeolas Homogéneos de Baja Cota Diseñados a Rotura por Fondo, RTI2018-101073-B-I00-AR). / Mares Nasarre, P. (2021). Overtopping flow on mound breakwaters under depth-limited breaking wave conditions [Tesis doctoral]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/163154 / TESIS

The objective of this thesis was to develop guidance for an anchored geotextile Rapidly Deployable Armoring System for the landward side of earthen levees to mitigate the effects of storm surge and overtopping waves. A case study of the Backwater Levee protection placed during the 2011 Mississippi River flood by the US Army Corps of Engineers was performed to prove construction feasibility. Full scale anchor testing was performed for 0.3 and 0.6 m rod shaped anchors to determine their load deflection behavior. Anchor test data and shear stress profiles based on flume testing presented in literature were used in conjunction with surface to surface contact interactions to develop a single-layer elastic membrane finite element model (SLEMM) of an RDAS to provide design guidance. The SLEMM appears to perform the finite element formulations correctly, but does not produce physically meaningful results. Further improvements to the model are needed for useable design.

A comprehensive experimental program dealing with three-dimensional overtopping and breach development as well as two-dimensional overtopping physical tests of noncohesive earth embankments has been conducted on scale models in the Hydraulic Laboratory at the Department of Civil Engineering at the University of Ottawa. The experimental program which consisted of three phases focused on geotechnical and hydraulic aspects of the embankment breach mechanism. The first two phases focused on two test series for the three-dimensional breach overtopping tests: drainage and compaction. The test series were designed to determine the embankment breach characteristics using test parameters which have not been adequately identified or controlled in past noncohesive physical models: initial soil-water state and optimum dry unit weight. Both parameters were controlled in laboratory tests by means of compaction effort and seepage through the embankment body, respectively. The dynamic compaction technique employed in the preliminary experimental phase was refined to represent a more realistic method. A novel method was thus designed to simulate the construction of a real-size prototype embankment, where a vibratory and static load was used to apply and control, respectively, the compaction effort. The hydraulic aspects of the embankment breach mechanism were also investigated. For the first time, scale series tests have been used to assess the Froude criterion using tilted and quasi-exact geometric scales under very low inflow within the scope of three-dimensional breach overtopping. Data measurements included a time-history of water surface levels and video footage captured from three locations: upstream, downstream and above the embankment models. The analysis for the spatial breach overtopping tests involved measurement of the breach outflow hydrograph and breach channel evolution at the upstream slope, using hydrologic routing and a developed photogrammetric technique using the video footage, respectively. An expression which estimates the breach outflow based on this apparent upstream control section was therefore derived. The relationship between the measured and estimated breach outflow was expressed in terms of breach discharge efficiency. The third phase of the experimental program was comprised of two-dimensional overtopping tests to investigate the erodibility of a steep slope in overtopped noncohesive embankment models. A novel experimental two-dimensional configuration used to measure the pore-water-pressures within the embankment model body was developed using micro and standard tensiometer-transducer-probe assemblies, designed, assembled and tested at the Geotechnical Engineering Laboratory. A transient flownet analysis was developed using ArcGIS and the time-history of the pore-water-pressure measurements. All flow parameters were computed using the free water surface and bed profiles captured using a photogrammetric technique and the developed hydrologic routing method. Using the one-dimensional Saint-Venant equations, an analytical expression for the bed shear stress was derived to take into account the effects of unsteady flow, boundary seepage and steep slopes. Using the measured erosion rates and the sediment continuity principle, the bed mobility relationship expressed by the Shields and transport parameters was revisited to account for the effects of unsteady and supercritical flow on a downstream steep slope in the presence of boundary seepage. This novel transient flownet approach will lead to the development of new sediment mobility relationships for breach flows, instead of the classical sediment transport-capacity formulations which are based on steady, subcritical and normal flow conditions.

Thesis (MScEng)--Stellenbosch University, 2014. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Sea-level rise due to climate change results in deeper water next to existing coastal structures, which in turn enables higher waves to reach these structures. Wave overtopping occurs when wave action discharges water over the crest of a coastal structure. Therefore, the higher waves reaching existing structures will cause higher wave overtopping rates. One possible solution to address increasing overtopping, is to raise the crest level of existing coastal structures. However, raising the crest level of a seawall at the back of a beach, will possibly obstruct the view to the ocean from inland. Alternatively, recurves can be incorporated into the design of both existing and new seawalls. The recurve wall reduces overtopping by deflecting uprushing water seawards as waves impact with the wall. The main advantage of seawalls with recurves is that their crest height can be lower, but still allow for the same wave overtopping rate as vertical seawalls without recurves. This project investigates the use of recurve seawalls at the back of a beach to reduce overtopping and thereby reducing the required wall height. The objectives of the project are twofold, namely: (1) to compare overtopping rates of a vertical seawall without a recurve and seawalls with recurves; and (2) to determine the influence that the length of the recurve overhang has on the overtopping rates. To achieve these objectives, physical model tests were performed in a glass flume equipped with a piston type wave paddle that is capable of active wave absorption. These tests were performed on three different seawall profiles: the vertical wall and a recurve section with a short and a long seaward overhang, denoted as Recurve 1 and Recurve 2 respectively. Tests were performed with 5 different water-levels, while the wall height, wave height and period, and seabed slope remained constant. Both breaking and non-breaking waves were simulated. A comparison of test results proves that the two recurve seawalls are more effective in reducing overtopping than the vertical seawall. The reduction of overtopping can be as high as 100%, depending on the freeboard and wave conditions. Recurve 2 proves to be the most efficient in reducing overtopping. However, in the case of a high freeboard (low water-level at the toe of the structure), the reduction in overtopping for Recurve 1 and Recurve 2 was almost equally effective. This is because all water from the breaking waves is reflected. Even for the simulated lower relative freeboard cases, the recurve walls offer a significant reduction in overtopping compared with the vertical wall. A graph is presented which shows that the length of the seaward overhang influences the overtopping performance of the seawall. As the seaward overhang length increases, the wave overtopping rate decreases. However, for high freeboard cases the length of the seaward overhang becomes less important. The graph gives designers an indication of how recurves can be designed to reduce seawall height while retaining low overtopping. It is recommended that further model tests be performed for additional overhang lengths. Incorporation of recurves into seawall design represents an adaptation to problems of sea-level rise due to global warming / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Stygende seevlak as gevolg van klimaatverandering, veroorsaak dat dieper water langs bestaande kusstrukture voorkom. Gevolglik kan hoër golwe hierdie strukture bereik. Golfoorslag vind plaas wanneer water oor die kruin van ‘n kusstruktuur, hoofsaaklik deur golfaksie, spat of vloei. Dus sal hoër golfhoogtes tot verhoogde golfoorslag lei. Een moontlike oplossing vir hierdie verhoogde golfoorslag is om die kruinhoogte van bestaande kusstrukture te verhoog. In die geval van ‘n seemuur aan die agterkant van ‘n strand, kan hoër strukture egter die see-uitsig na die see vanaf die land belemmer. Om hierdie probleem te vermy, kan terugkaatsmure in die ontwerp van bestaande en nuwe seemure ingesluit word. Terugkaatsmure verminder golfoorslag deurdat opspattende water, afkomstig van invallende golwe terug, na die see gekaats word. Die grootste voordeel van ‘n terugkaatsmuur is dat hierdie tipe muur ‘n laer kruinhoogte as die vertikale seemuur sonder ‘n terugkaatsbalk, vir dieselfde golfoorslagtempo kan hê. Hierdie projek ondersoek dus die gebruik van terugkaatsmure aan die agterkant van ‘n strand met die doel om golfoorslag te verminder en sodoende die vereiste muurhoogte te verminder. Die doelwit vir die projek is tweeledig: (1) om die golfoorslagtempo van terugkaatsmure te vergelyk met dié van ‘n vertikale muur sonder ‘n terugkaatsbalk; en (2) om die invloed van die terugkaatsmuur se oorhanglengte op die golfoorslagtempo te bepaal. Om bogenoemde doelwitte te bereik, is fisiese modeltoetse in ‘n golfkanaal, wat met ‘n suiertipe golfopwekker toegerus is en wat aktiewe golfabsorbering toepas, uitgevoer. Hierdie toetse is op drie verskillende seemuurprofiele, naamlik ‘n vertikale muur en ‘n terugkaatsmuur met ‘n kort en lang oorhang, genaamd “Recurve 1” en “Recurve 2” onderskeidelik, uitgevoer. Die muurhoogte, die seebodemhelling asook die golfhoogte en –periode is tydens al die toetse konstant gehou. Vir elke profiel is toetse by 5 verskillende watervlakke vir beide brekende en ongebreekte golwe uitgevoer. Uit die toetsresultate is dit duidelik dat terugkaatsmure meer effektief as vertikale mure is om golfoorslag te beperk. Die vermindering van golfoorslag kan tot 100% wees, afhangende van die vryboord en golftoestande. Daar is bevind dat “Recurve 2” golfoorslag die effektiefste verminder. In die geval van hoë vryboord (lae watervlak by die toon van die struktuur) is daar egter gevind dat “Recurve 1” en “Recurve 2” die golfoorslag feitlik ewe goed beperk. Dit is die geval aangesien alle water van die brekende golwe weerkaats word. In die geval van ‘n lae vryboord, word die voordeel van die terugkaatsmuur teengewerk deurdat daar ‘n kleiner verskil in golfoorslagtempo’s tussen die drie profiele is. ‘n Grafiek is voorgelê wat wys dat die lengte van die terugkaatsmuur se oorhang golfoorslag beperk. ‘n Groter oorhanglengte van die terugslagmuur veroorsaak ‘n groter vermindering in golfoorslag. Vir gevalle met ‘n hoë vryboord, is daar egter gevind dat die oorhanglengte van die terugslagmuur minder belangrik is. Hierdie grafiek gee ontwerpers ‘n aanduiding van hoe terugslagmure ontwerp kan word met ‘n lae hoogte terwyl ‘n lae oorslagtempo behou word. Die gebruik van terugslagmure bied ‘n aanpassing vir die probleme van seevlakstyging, as gevolg van klimaatverandering.