A significant proportion of the world's population and physical assets are located in low lying coastal zones. Accurate prediction of wave induced run-up and overtopping of sea defences are important in defining the extent and severity of wave action, and in assessing risk to people and property from severe storms and tsunamis. This thesis describes a one-dimensional numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations of Madsen and Sorensen (1992) and the non-linear shallow water equations. The model is suitable for simulating propagation of weakly non-linear and weakly dispersive waves from intermediate to zero depth, such that any inundation and/or overtopping caused by the incoming waves is also calculated as part of the simulation. Wave breaking is approximated by locally switching to the non-linear shallow water equations, which can model broken waves as bores. A piston paddle wavemaker is incorporated into the model for complete reproduction of laboratory experiments. A domain mapping technique is used in the vicinity of the paddle to transform a time-varying domain into a fixed domain, so that the governing equations can be more readily solved. First, various aspects of the numerical model are verified against known analytical and newly derived semi-analytical solutions. The complete model is then validated with laboratory measurements of run-up and overtopping involving solitary waves. NewWave focused wave groups, which give the expected shape of extreme wave events in a linear random sea, are used for further validation. Simulations of experiments of wave group run-up on a plane beach yield very good agreement with the measured run-up distances and free surface time series. Wave-by-wave overtopping induced by focused wave groups is also successfully simulated with the model, with satisfactory agreement between the experimental and the predicted overtopping volumes. Repeated simulations, now driven by second order paddle displacement signals, give insight into second order error waves spuriously generated by using paddle signals derived from linear theory. Separation of harmonics reveals that the long error wave is significantly affecting the wave group shape and leading to enhanced runu-up distances and overtopping volumes. An extensive parameter study is carried out using the numerical model investigating the influence on wave group run-up of linear wave amplitude at focus, linear focus location, and wave group phase at focus. For a given amplitude, both the phase and the focus location significantly affect the wave group run-up. It is also found that the peak optimised run-up increases with the wave amplitude, but wave breaking becomes an inhibiting factor for larger waves. This methodology is proposed for extreme storm wave induced run-up analysis.

O princípio operacional do dispositivo de galgamento consiste de uma estrutura que utiliza uma rampa para direcionar as ondas incidentes para o reservatório. A água armazenada retorna para o oceano após a passagem por uma turbina que está acoplada a um gerador de energia elétrica. O presente trabalho propõe dois estudos numéricos a respeito de um conversor de energia das ondas do mar do tipo galgamento. Para ambos os casos, o objetivo do estudo é a aplicação do método Design Construtal na definição da melhor forma para a rampa de modo a maximizar a massa de água que entra no reservatório, conduzindo a uma maior geração de energia elétrica. O grau de liberdade b/B, isto é, a razão entre a base superior e a base inferior da rampa trapezoidal, foi otimizado, mantendo-se fixos a área total do tanque de ondas, a área da rampa e as características da onda. Para a análise numérica do princípio de funcionamento deste dispositivo foi empregado um domínio computacional tridimensional (3D), gerado através do software GAMBIT, onde o conversor é acoplado a um tanque de ondas regulares. A solução das equações de conservação e a equação do transporte da fração volumétrica foi realizada com o código comercial de Dinâmica dos Fluidos Computacional FLUENT, que é baseado no Método de Volumes Finitos (MVF). Aplica-se o modelo multifásico Volume of Fluid (VOF) no tratamento da interação água-ar. Para o primeiro estudo, as características da onda regular empregada estavam em escala de laboratório. Os resultados mostraram que houve uma razão ótima (b/B)o = 0.43, que maximiza a quantidade de água que entra no reservatório para o caso estudado. Para ambos os casos, a razão ótima foi encontrada para o extremo inferior do grau de liberdade, além dos resultados apontarem um aumento significativo na massa admitida no reservatório e, por consequente, um maior aproveitamento das ondas incidentes. / The operational principle of an overtopping device consists of a structure which utilizes a ramp to direct incident waves to the reservoir. The stored water returns to the ocean after passing through a turbine that is coupled to an electric generator. This work proposes two numerical studies of a WEC of sea waves of the type overtopping. In both cases, the objective of the study is the application of Constructal Design method to define the best geometry of the ramp which maximizes the mass of water entering the reservoir, leading to increase the generation of electricity. The degree of freedom b/B, that is, the ratio between the upper base and the lower base of the trapezoidal ramp, has been optimized, keeping fixed the total area of the wave tank, the area of the ramp and the wave characteristics. For the numerical analysis of the working principle of this device it was used a three-dimensional computational domain (3D) generated by GAMBIT software where the device is inserted to a tank of regular waves. The solution of conservation equations and equation of transport of the volumetric fraction was carried out with the Commercial Code of Computational Fluid Dynamics FLUENT, which is based on Finite Volume Method (FVM). It was applied the multiphase model Volume of Fluid (VOF) in the treatment of the interaction water-air. For the first study, the characteristics of the employed regular wave were on a laboratory scale. The results showed that there were an optimal ratio (b/B)o = 0.43, which maximizes the amount of water entering the reservoir for the case study. For the second study, the characteristics of the regular wave were employed at actual scale and the results showed that there was an optimum ratio (b/B)o = 0.38, which maximizes the amount of water entering the reservoir for the case study. In both cases, the optimum ratio is found for the extreme lower of freedom of degree and the results showed a significant increase in the mass allowed in the reservoir and, consequently, larger use of the incident waves.

Extreme rainfall events associated with global warming are likely to produce an increasing number of flooding scenarios. A large magnitude of hydrologic events can often result in submerged orifice flow (also called pressure flow) or embankment and bridge overtopping flow, in which the foundation of a bridge is subjected to severe scour at the sediment bed. This phenomenon can cause bridge failure during large floods. However, current laboratory studies have focused on only cases of free-surface flow conditions, and they do not take bridge submergence into account. In this study, abutment scour experiments were carried out in a compound channel to investigate the characteristics of abutment scour in free-surface flow, submerged orifice flow, and overtopping flow cases. Detailed bed contours and three components of velocities and turbulent intensities were measured by acoustic Doppler velocimeters. The results show that the contracted flow around an abutment because of lateral and/or vertical contraction and local turbulent structures at the downstream region of the bridge are the main features of the flow responsible for the maximum scour depth around an abutment. The effects of local turbulent structures on abutment scour are discussed in terms of turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) profiles measured in a wide range of flow contraction ratios. The experimental results showed that maximum abutment scour can be predicted by a suggested single relationship even in different flow types (i.e., free, submerged orifice, and overtopping flow) if the turbulent kinetic energy and discharge under the bridge can be accurately measured.

学位授与大学：京都大学 ; 取得学位: 博士(工学) ; 学位授与年月日: 2007-09-25 ; 学位の種類: 新制・課程博士 ; 学位記番号: 工博第2844号 ; 請求記号: 新制/工/1418 ; 整理番号: 25529 / An atmosphere-ocean coupled model was developed based on a preexisting non-hydrostatic mesoscale atmosphere model (MM5) and non-hydrostatic ocean circulation model (MITgcm). This model together with a pre-established wind-wave-currents coupled model was applied to a number of regional environmental issue and disaster events to reproduce the present status and past situations and to help our understanding of the physical processes of such problems in terms of atmosphere-ocean interactions including the sea surface waves in the interface between air and sea. The disaster events and environmental issue studied in this thesis are follows. 1) Storm surge induced by Hurricane Katrina in the Gulf coast of USA in 2005. 2) Extreme high waves at Hara coast, Suruga Bay in Japan caused by the super-Typhoon TIP in 1979. 3) Positive and negative feedbacks in typhoon-ocean interaction in case of Typhoon ETAU in 2003. 4) Thermal water circulation in a dam-made lake (Yachiyo Lake) in Hiroshima, Japan concerning on the hydrodynamics in the lake. 5) Reanalysis of the past 47 storms that caused disasters in West Kyushu, Japan. 6) Wave overtopping simulation over through the submerged offshore breakwater and enhance seawall. The Regional Environment and Disaster Prevention Simulator is proposed and constructed based on the regional atmosphere-ocean coupled model in this thesis of which the objective was improvement of the numerical assessment method to disaster events and environment problems by introducing he coupling effects between different systems. / Kyoto University (京都大学) / 0048 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(工学) / 甲第13373号 / 工博第2844号 / 新制||工||1418(附属図書館) / 25529 / UT51-2007-Q774 / 京都大学大学院工学研究科社会基盤工学専攻 / (主査)教授 関口 秀雄, 教授 間瀬 肇, 教授 中北 英一 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当

O princípio operacional do dispositivo de galgamento consiste de uma estrutura que utiliza uma rampa para direcionar as ondas incidentes para o reservatório. A água armazenada retorna para o oceano após a passagem por uma turbina que está acoplada a um gerador de energia elétrica. O presente trabalho propõe dois estudos numéricos a respeito de um conversor de energia das ondas do mar do tipo galgamento. Para ambos os casos, o objetivo do estudo é a aplicação do método Design Construtal na definição da melhor forma para a rampa de modo a maximizar a massa de água que entra no reservatório, conduzindo a uma maior geração de energia elétrica. O grau de liberdade b/B, isto é, a razão entre a base superior e a base inferior da rampa trapezoidal, foi otimizado, mantendo-se fixos a área total do tanque de ondas, a área da rampa e as características da onda. Para a análise numérica do princípio de funcionamento deste dispositivo foi empregado um domínio computacional tridimensional (3D), gerado através do software GAMBIT, onde o conversor é acoplado a um tanque de ondas regulares. A solução das equações de conservação e a equação do transporte da fração volumétrica foi realizada com o código comercial de Dinâmica dos Fluidos Computacional FLUENT, que é baseado no Método de Volumes Finitos (MVF). Aplica-se o modelo multifásico Volume of Fluid (VOF) no tratamento da interação água-ar. Para o primeiro estudo, as características da onda regular empregada estavam em escala de laboratório. Os resultados mostraram que houve uma razão ótima (b/B)o = 0.43, que maximiza a quantidade de água que entra no reservatório para o caso estudado. Para ambos os casos, a razão ótima foi encontrada para o extremo inferior do grau de liberdade, além dos resultados apontarem um aumento significativo na massa admitida no reservatório e, por consequente, um maior aproveitamento das ondas incidentes. / The operational principle of an overtopping device consists of a structure which utilizes a ramp to direct incident waves to the reservoir. The stored water returns to the ocean after passing through a turbine that is coupled to an electric generator. This work proposes two numerical studies of a WEC of sea waves of the type overtopping. In both cases, the objective of the study is the application of Constructal Design method to define the best geometry of the ramp which maximizes the mass of water entering the reservoir, leading to increase the generation of electricity. The degree of freedom b/B, that is, the ratio between the upper base and the lower base of the trapezoidal ramp, has been optimized, keeping fixed the total area of the wave tank, the area of the ramp and the wave characteristics. For the numerical analysis of the working principle of this device it was used a three-dimensional computational domain (3D) generated by GAMBIT software where the device is inserted to a tank of regular waves. The solution of conservation equations and equation of transport of the volumetric fraction was carried out with the Commercial Code of Computational Fluid Dynamics FLUENT, which is based on Finite Volume Method (FVM). It was applied the multiphase model Volume of Fluid (VOF) in the treatment of the interaction water-air. For the first study, the characteristics of the employed regular wave were on a laboratory scale. The results showed that there were an optimal ratio (b/B)o = 0.43, which maximizes the amount of water entering the reservoir for the case study. For the second study, the characteristics of the regular wave were employed at actual scale and the results showed that there was an optimum ratio (b/B)o = 0.38, which maximizes the amount of water entering the reservoir for the case study. In both cases, the optimum ratio is found for the extreme lower of freedom of degree and the results showed a significant increase in the mass allowed in the reservoir and, consequently, larger use of the incident waves.

O princípio operacional do dispositivo de galgamento consiste de uma estrutura que utiliza uma rampa para direcionar as ondas incidentes para o reservatório. A água armazenada retorna para o oceano após a passagem por uma turbina que está acoplada a um gerador de energia elétrica. O presente trabalho propõe dois estudos numéricos a respeito de um conversor de energia das ondas do mar do tipo galgamento. Para ambos os casos, o objetivo do estudo é a aplicação do método Design Construtal na definição da melhor forma para a rampa de modo a maximizar a massa de água que entra no reservatório, conduzindo a uma maior geração de energia elétrica. O grau de liberdade b/B, isto é, a razão entre a base superior e a base inferior da rampa trapezoidal, foi otimizado, mantendo-se fixos a área total do tanque de ondas, a área da rampa e as características da onda. Para a análise numérica do princípio de funcionamento deste dispositivo foi empregado um domínio computacional tridimensional (3D), gerado através do software GAMBIT, onde o conversor é acoplado a um tanque de ondas regulares. A solução das equações de conservação e a equação do transporte da fração volumétrica foi realizada com o código comercial de Dinâmica dos Fluidos Computacional FLUENT, que é baseado no Método de Volumes Finitos (MVF). Aplica-se o modelo multifásico Volume of Fluid (VOF) no tratamento da interação água-ar. Para o primeiro estudo, as características da onda regular empregada estavam em escala de laboratório. Os resultados mostraram que houve uma razão ótima (b/B)o = 0.43, que maximiza a quantidade de água que entra no reservatório para o caso estudado. Para ambos os casos, a razão ótima foi encontrada para o extremo inferior do grau de liberdade, além dos resultados apontarem um aumento significativo na massa admitida no reservatório e, por consequente, um maior aproveitamento das ondas incidentes. / The operational principle of an overtopping device consists of a structure which utilizes a ramp to direct incident waves to the reservoir. The stored water returns to the ocean after passing through a turbine that is coupled to an electric generator. This work proposes two numerical studies of a WEC of sea waves of the type overtopping. In both cases, the objective of the study is the application of Constructal Design method to define the best geometry of the ramp which maximizes the mass of water entering the reservoir, leading to increase the generation of electricity. The degree of freedom b/B, that is, the ratio between the upper base and the lower base of the trapezoidal ramp, has been optimized, keeping fixed the total area of the wave tank, the area of the ramp and the wave characteristics. For the numerical analysis of the working principle of this device it was used a three-dimensional computational domain (3D) generated by GAMBIT software where the device is inserted to a tank of regular waves. The solution of conservation equations and equation of transport of the volumetric fraction was carried out with the Commercial Code of Computational Fluid Dynamics FLUENT, which is based on Finite Volume Method (FVM). It was applied the multiphase model Volume of Fluid (VOF) in the treatment of the interaction water-air. For the first study, the characteristics of the employed regular wave were on a laboratory scale. The results showed that there were an optimal ratio (b/B)o = 0.43, which maximizes the amount of water entering the reservoir for the case study. For the second study, the characteristics of the regular wave were employed at actual scale and the results showed that there was an optimum ratio (b/B)o = 0.38, which maximizes the amount of water entering the reservoir for the case study. In both cases, the optimum ratio is found for the extreme lower of freedom of degree and the results showed a significant increase in the mass allowed in the reservoir and, consequently, larger use of the incident waves.

Doctoral thesis deals with reliability analysis of flood protection dikes by estimating the probability of dike failure. This study based on theoretical knowledge, experimental and statistical researches, mathematical models and field survey extends present knowledge concerning with reliability analysis of dikes vulnerable to the problem of breaching due to overtopping. This study contains the results of probabilistic solution of breaching of a left bank dike of the River Dyje at a location adjacent to the village of Ladná near the town of Břeclav in the Czech Republic. Within thin work, a mathematical model describing the overtopping and erosion processes was proposed. The dike overtopping is simulated using simple surface hydraulics equations. For modelling the dike erosion which commences with the exceedance of erosion resistance of the dike surface, simple transport equations were used with erosion parameters calibrated depending on data from past real embankment failures. In the context of analysis of the model, uncertainty in input parameters was determined and subsequently the sensitivity analysis was carried out using the screening method. In order to achieve the probabilistic solution, selected input parameters were considered random variables with different probability distributions. For generating the sets of random values for the selected input variables, the Latin Hypercube Sampling (LHS) method was used. Concerning with the process of dike breaching due to overtopping, four typical phases were distinguished. The final results of this study take the form of probabilities for those typical dike breach phases.

This thesis describes experiments that were carried out using focused wave groups in the UK Coastal Research Facility (UKCRF). Considerable effort was put into calibrating the UKCRF to determine the relationship between the input signals sent to the paddles and the waves generated in the facility. Focused wave groups of various sizes and phases, based on NewWave theory were generated, and measurements were made of the resulting surface elevation data, water particle kinematics, wave runup and overtopping volumes. NewWave theory models the profile of extreme waves in a Gaussian (random) sea. The thesis describes the first time this model has been applied in the context of coastal wave transformation. A method for the separation of the underlying harmonic structure of a focused wave group is described and results presented. This technique has been used in relatively deep water but is shown to work successfully in the coastal zone until wave overturning. A method has been devised to provide a theoretical Stokes-like expansion of the free and bound waves to model the surface elevation and water particle kinematics of the focused wave groups. Satisfactory agreement is achieved between the theoretical predictions of UKCRF measurements. Suggestions are made for an improved model. The underlying harmonic structure of the focused wave groups is presented as stacked time histories that give insight into the wave transformation process from deep to shallow water. Particular attention is paid to the low frequency wave generated as the wave group interacts with the beach. This is compared to the low frequency wave that is generated by a solitary wave in the UKCRF. Runup and overtopping measurements are in reasonable agreement with predictions based on certain empirical formulae, but not others. These comparisons are useful in identifying those formulae able to predict runup and overtopping of extreme waves in the coastal zone.

Dans cette thèse, nous introduisons un nouveau modèle instationnaire de vagues valable de la zone de levée à la zone de jet de rive adapté à l'étude de la submersion. Le modèle est basé sur les équations de Serre Green-Naghdi (S-GN), dont l'application à la zone de surf reste un domaine de recherche ouvert. Nous proposons une nouvelle approche pour gérer le déferlement dans ce type de modèle, basée sur la représentation des fronts déferlés par des chocs. Cette approche a été utilisée avec succès pour les modèles basés sur les équations de Saint-Venant (SV) et permet une description simple et efficace du déferlement et des mouvements de la ligne d'eau. Dans ces travaux, nous cherchons à étendre le domaine de validité du modèle SV SURF-WB (Marche et al. 2007) vers la zone de levée en incluant les termes dispersifs propres aux équations de S-GN. Des basculements locaux vers les équations de SV au niveau des fronts permettent alors aux vagues de déferler et dissiper leur énergie. Le modèle obtenu, appelé SURF-GN, est validé à l'aide de données de laboratoire correspondant à différents types de vagues incidentes et de plages. Il est ensuite utilisé pour analyser la dynamique des fronts d'ondes longues de type tsunami en zone littorale. Nous montrons que SURF-GN peut décrire les différents types de fronts, d'ondulé non-déferlé à purement déferlé. Les conséquences de la transformation d'une onde de type tsunami en train d'ondulations lors de la propagation sur une plage sont ensuite considérées. Nous présentons finalement une étude de la célérité des vagues déferlées, basée sur les données de la campagne de mesure in-situ ECORS Truc-Vert 2008. L'influence des non-linéarités est en particulier quantifiée. / In this thesis, we introduce a new numerical model able to describe wave transformation from the shoaling to the swash zones, including overtopping. This model is based on Serre Green-Naghdi equations, which are the basic fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations. These equations can accurately describe wave dynamics prior to breaking, but their application to the surf zone usually requires the use of complex parameterizations. We propose a new approach to describe wave breaking in S-GN models, based on the representation of breaking wave fronts as shocks. This method has been successfully applied to the Nonlinear Shallow Water (NSW) equations, and allows for an easy treatment of wave breaking and shoreline motions. However, the NSW equations can only be applied after breaking. In this thesis, we aim at extending the validity domain of the NSW model SURF-WB (Marche et al. 2007) to the shoaling zone by adding the S-GN dispersive terms to the governing equations. Local switches to NSW equations are then performed in the vicinity of the breaking fronts, allowing for the waves to break and dissipate their energy. Extensive validations using laboratory data are presented. The new model, called SURF-GN, is then applied to study tsunami-like undular bore dynamics in the nearshore. The model ability to describe bore dynamics for a large range of Froude number is first demonstrated, and the effects of the bore transformation on wave run-up over a sloping beach are considered. We finally present an in-situ study of broken wave celerity, based on the ECORS-Truc Vert 2008 field experiment. In particular, we quantify the effects of non-linearities and evaluate the predictive ability of several non-linear celerity models.

No description available.