Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Chicago, 1966. / "June 1966"--Cover. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 52-56).

Exposed sand beaches are increasingly under pressure from human population growth and recreation. Activities, such as vehicle driving and horse riding, can pose a significant threat to specialist fauna living in the sediment. Few studies have evaluated how vehicles affect sand beach fauna and none have examined the impacts of horse users on burrowing bivalves. The research questions addressed were: do vehicles and/or horses on sand beaches impact on intertidal shellfish populations? Following on from this, can management policies mitigate any negative impacts from such activities on sand beaches? This research required an interdisciplinary approach utilising methodologies from coastal geomorphology, biological science and management. The intertidal distribution of the New Zealand surfclam Paphies donacina (southern tuatua) determined seasonally on six exposed surf beaches along Pegasus Bay. The impacts of vehicle and horse users on shellfish survival were experimentally investigated, and novel in situ methods were developed to examine the effects of horses on bivalve survival. Intertidal tuatua were small (< 30 mm) and shallowly buried. Found approximately 30 m below the last high tide line, they may be exposed to vehicle and horse users. There was a positive linear relationship between the number of vehicle passes and tuatua mortality (% tuatua mortality = 4.8 + 0.23 x number of vehicle passes). On average, horse riding resulted in 36.9% tuatua mortality within a single hoof print, but walking resulted in lower mortality than trotting or galloping. Extrapolative modelling predicted that the long-term presence of these users would be highly detrimental to shellfish. Reducing the temporal frequency and spatial extent of vehicle and horse users on sand beaches could decrease shellfish mortality. The thesis results were used to evaluate current management techniques and provide management options to minimise the potential impacts of beach users on shellfish resources.

<p> The nearshore morphology of sand beaches in the Great Lakes usually consists of a ridge and runnel unit in the shallow, inner portion of the nearshore zone and one or more longshore bar and trough units in the deeper, outer portion. These two sets of features are morphologically and genetically different and exhibit spatial and temporal variations indicating the relative importance of environmental factors in controlling the form of each. </p> <p> Ridges and runnels form and evolve in response to a combination of the controlling factors of wave and water level variations. Ridge formation occurs in response to a rapid decrease in wave energy and lowering of the water level during the subsiding period of a storm. Ridges, with heights of 0.04-0.40 m, take 5-10 days to migrate 10-30 m across an inner nearshore terrace toward the shore. Ridge migration produces laminations dipping at 20°-30° toward the shore. Ridge attachment to the shore produces an accretional berm composed of laminations dipping at about 5° toward the lake. </p> <p> An annual cycle of erosion and deposition occurs in the inner nearshore and foreshore zones and is due to seasonal wave energy and water level variations. Erosion occurs in spring and summer because of rising water levels while the deposition of planar laminations dipping at less than 5° toward the lake is caused by lower water levels and higher energy waves in autumn. </p> <p> Based on the analysis of over 100 echo sounder profiles of the outer nearshore zone of 7 beaches, longshore bar and trough morphologic properties (maximum depth of bar formation, number of bars, and bar amplitudes), are controlled by three main environmental factors (wave energy or surf base, nearshore slope, and sediment size). Bars are present at depths of 3.5 m and at distances of 500 m from the shore, the number of bars ranges up to 6, and bar amplitudes range up to 2 m. Surf base ranges from 3-6 m, slopes from 0.009-0.02, and mean sediment size from 1.85 Ø - 3.30 Ø. There is a good correlation between the slope and sediment size. Temporal variation in bar morphology during the summer period of study is small or insignificant. </p> <p> Individual longshore bars probably only approach, rather than attain, equilibrium forms because of the temporal flucuations in the environmental controls of wave energy and water level. The geometrical trend in all longshore bar systems for the bar amplitude and spacing between bars to increase with increasing depth and distance from the shoreline, suggests a wave energy dissipation process which is somewhat analogous to dampened oscillation. </p> / Thesis / Master of Science (MSc)

With advances in modern technology, satellite-based data is rapidly becoming a viable option for geotechnical site characterization. Commercial satellite data offers high resolution (~25-200 cm), increased spatial coverage on the order of kilometers, short revisit times leading to high temporal coverage, and allows for data to be analyzed rapidly and remotely without the need for physical site access. These advantages are particularly attractive for characterizing coastal sites, where both the strength properties and moisture content can change rapidly in response to tidal stages, wave runup, and storm events. To date, there have been limited investigations into the use of satellite-based data for characterizing geotechnical properties of sandy beach sediments. Furthermore, the use of these moisture contents to estimate the soil strength of beaches has been limited. The goal of this research was to develop pathways to estimate the moisture content of sandy beach sites utilizing satellite-based data. For this study, both optical and synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images were collected at two sites: the Atlantic beach near the US Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility in Duck, North Carolina and three distinct sites located near Yakutat, Alaska (Cannon Beach, Ocean Cape, and Point Carrew). During satellite overflight, ground measurements of moisture content, grain size, unit weight, porosity, and bearing capacity were collected. Using the field measurements, this research (1) developed a framework to estimate the moisture content of sandy beach sediments from satellite-based optical images; (2) investigated the necessary collection parameters to estimate the moisture content from SAR images; and (3) developed a framework to estimate the bearing capacity of sandy beaches using moisture contents derived from satellite-based images. The results of this study demonstrated that optical images can produce reasonable estimates of the moisture content when compared to field measurements and are strongly influenced by local morphology. Additionally, SAR images with incidence angles of 30°-50° produced the best results when compared to field measurements. Finally, using the spatial estimates moisture content produced from satellite data and standard sediment, maps of bearing capacity can be developed to predict beach trafficability. / Doctor of Philosophy / The strength of sandy beaches is impacted by the density, particle size and shape, distribution of grain sizes, mineralogy, and moisture content. For coastal sites, which typically have a dominant mineralogy and a limited range of grain sizes, a main factor changing is the moisture content. This varying moisture content can result in the increase or decrease in soil strength, and impacts modelling for coastal challenges such as erosion or beach trafficability (i.e., the ability to drive on the beach) on large scales. It is common to measure moisture content through sampling or moisture probes, but these represent point measurements and may not accurately capture the spatial and temporal moisture contents at a beach. Recently, satellite-based images have become popular for assessing processes and environmental changes over large areas. However, their use for mapping moisture content at sandy beaches has been limited, and the proper models are unknown. As such, the goal of this research is to investigate the use of satellite images to map moisture content over large areas. For this study, measurements were conducted at two sites: an Atlantic beach located near the US Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility in Duck, North Carolina and three distinct sites located near Yakutat, Alaska (Cannon Beach, Ocean Cape, and Point Carrew). Simultaneously with ground measurements, two different types of images were collected. The first, optical data, collects data over the visible (400-700 nm) and near infrared (700-1300 nm) regions of the electromagnetic spectrum. These satellites use the sun to light the scene and the amount of energy reflected back to the satellite is used to estimate the moisture content. The second, X-band synthetic aperture radar (SAR) data (wavelengths of 3.1 cm), sends its own energy source to the ground and uses the returned energy to estimate the moisture content. Both optical and SAR are able to produce reasonable estimates of moisture content when compared to field measurements. These estimated values of moisture content are then tested in a model to estimate the sand strength, with those estimated values also following the expected trends. Ultimately, this work can be used to contribute to understanding how moisture content varies at sandy beaches and improve trafficability predictions in sandy beach environments.

Cette thèse vise à étudier expérimentalement, analytiquement et numériquement, les conséquences de variations et d'oscillations hydrodynamiques à forte variabilité temporelle en milieux poreux partiellement saturés. Les problèmes que nous étudions comportent des surfaces libres tant à l'extérieur qu'à l'intérieur des milieux poreux, celles-ci étant définies comme des isosurfaces de pression d'eau égale à la pression atmosphérique (Pwater = Patm). Les différentes études expérimentales réalisées en laboratoire sont, respectivement : une expérience d'imbibition dans une boite à sable avec effets capillaires importants; la transmission d'oscillations de la surface libre à travers un massif sableux intercalaire dans un petit canal à houle (IMFT, Toulouse); l'étude de la dynamique et de la propagation des oscillations des niveaux d'eau dans un grand canal à houle (HYDRALAB, Barcelone), partiellement recouvert d'un fond sableux incliné, avec mesures de niveaux d'eau en pleine eau et sous le sable, et mesures du fond sableux (érosion/dépôts). Pour les études théoriques, nous avons développés des solutions analytiques linéarisées. Un exemple de problème traité analytiquement est: l'équation linéarisée de Dupuit-Boussinesq (D-B) transitoire à surface libre, en hypothèse d'écoulements plans et vidange/remplissage instantané : oscillations forcées, transmission et dissipation d'ondes à travers une boite à sable rectangulaire. Nous avons aussi développé une solution de l'équation faiblement non linéaire de Dupuit- Boussinesq (D-B) pour étudier le problème d'imbibition avec variation abrupte du niveau d'eau amont (suivi temporel du front de saturation). Nous avons pu étudier les différents types de problèmes transitoires liés aux expériences citées plus haut par simulation numérique. En particulier, nous avons simulé des écoulements partiellement saturés et insaturés, en coupe verticale, à l'aide d'un code de calcul (BIGFLOW 3D) qui résoud l'équation de Richards généralisée en régime transitoire. Nous avons ainsi étudié numériquement en régime non saturé, l'expérience d'imbibition dans un sable initialement sec à frontières verticales (IMFT sandbox), puis l'expérience de propagation d'ondes dans le grand canal à houle de Barcelone (laboratoire HYDRALAB) comportant une plage de sable inclinée, avec un couplage complètement intégré entre les zones micro-poreuse (sable) et “macro-poreuse” (pleine eau). Pour analyser les résultats de cette dernière expérience et les comparer aux simulations, nous avons utilisé plusieurs méthodes de traitement et d'analyse des signaux : analyse de Fourier (spectres de fréquences) ; ondelettes discrètes multi-résolution (Daubechies) ; analyses corrélatoires simple et croisée. Ces méthodes sont combinées avec des méthodes de préfiltrage pour estimer dérives et résidus (moyennes mobiles ; ondelettes multi-résolution). Cette analyse des signaux a permis de comprendre et quantifier la propagation à travers une plage de sable. Au total, les différentes approches de modélisation mis en oeuvre, associé à des procédures de calage en situation de couplage transitoire non linéaire ont permis de reproduire globalement les phénomènes de propagation de teneur en eau et de niveau d'eau dans les différentes configurations étudiées. / This thesis aims at investigating experimentally, analytically and numerically, the consequences of hydrodynamic variations and oscillations with high temporal variability in partially saturated porous media. The problems investigated in this work involve “free surfaces” both outside and inside the porous media, the free surface being defined as the “atmospheric” water pressure isosurface (Pwater = Patm). The laboratory experiments studied in this work are, respectively: Lateral imbibition in a dry sand box with significant capillary effects; Transmission of oscillations of the free surface through a vertical sand box placed in a small wave canal (IMFT, Toulouse); Dynamics of free surface oscillations and wave propagation in a large wave canal (HYDRALAB, Barcelona), partially covered with sand, with measurements of both open water and groundwater levels, and of sand topography (erosion / deposition). For theoretical studies, we have developed linearized analytical solutions. Here is a sample problem that was treated analytically in this work: The linearized equation of Dupuit-Boussinesq (DB) for transient free surface flow, assuming horizontal flow and instantaneous wetting/drainage of the unsaturated zone: forced oscillations, wave transmission and dissipation through a rectangular sandbox. We also developed a weakly nonlinear solution of the Dupuit-Boussinesq equation to study the sudden imbibition (temporal monitoring of the wetting front). We have studied the different types of transient flow problems related to the experiments cited above by numerical simulation. In particular, we have simulated unsaturated or partially saturated transient flows in vertical cross-section, using a computer code (BIGFLOW 3D) which solves a generalized version of Richards’ equation. Thus, using the Richards / BIGFLOW 3D model, we have studied numerically the experiment of unsaturated imbibition in a dry sand (IMFT sandbox), and then, with the same model, we have also studied the partially saturated wave propagation experiment in the large Barcelona wave canal (HYDRALAB laboratory), focusing on the sloping sandy beach, with coupling between the micro-porous zone (sand) and the “macro-porous” zone (open water). To interpret the results of the latter experiment and compare them to simulations, we use several methods of signal analyzis and signal processing, such as: Fourier analysis, discrete multi-resolution wavelets (Daubechies), auto and cross-correlation functions. These methods are combined with pre-filtering methods to estimate trends and residuals (moving averages; discrete wavelet analyses). This signal analyzis has allowed us to interpret and quantify water propagation phenomena through a sandy beach. To sum up, different modeling approaches, combined with model calibration procedures, were applied to transient nonlinear coupled flow problems. These approaches have allowed us to reproduce globally the water content distributions and water level propagation in the different configurations studied in this work.