Open coastlines are dynamic environments which experience seasonal and long-term physical changes. Sandy beaches line much of this coastline. As part of the requirements for Ph.D., I conducted a study examining intertidal macrofaunal and sedimentological features along the upper Texas coastal from 2007-2009. Four sites near Sabine Pass, High Island, Jamaica Beach, and Surfside Beach were selected. Beach transects were established at each site with six intertidal stations identified for collecting macrofaunal sediment core samples. Although sandy beaches are low in species diversity, the taxa found survive under dynamic and harsh conditions. In disturbance dominated environments, sandy beach fauna tended to be influenced by physical factors, instead of biologically controlled ones. The taxa found in this study include primary and secondary successional organisms which are adapted to handle disturbances. 98% of the benthic specimens identified belonged to six taxa with 92% from two taxa, Scolelepis squamata (38%) and Haustoriidae (54%). Macrofaunal zonation varied between sites because of beach geomorphology. On September 13, 2008, Hurricane Ike made landfall on the upper Texas coast causing extensive damage and erosion. Roughly 0.5 m of vertical height was lost at each beach post-storm. Total macrofaunal abundance declined by 87% from pre-storm counts. During the recovery the dominant two taxa, Haustoriidae and Scolelepis squamata, made up 82.78% of the total benthic specimens identified with haustoriids making up 68% of the total benthic taxa. The beach community remained dominated by four of the previously identified, six most common and abundant taxa. Recovery of sandy beaches often was hindered by increased vehicular traffic, sand removal and cleaning. Beach ecosystems have shown a high natural ecological resilience, but do not preclude the possibilities of habitat extinction and/or catastrophic community regime shift. Beaches are highly susceptible to human exploitation and global climate change, such as sea level rise. Knowledge of beach macrofaunal diversity along the Texas coast, such as haustoriids, could be used to estimate beach health and better evaluate the upward effects of natural disturbance, pollution and human uses on an integral part of the coastal ecosystem.

Beach grain size plays a major role in controlling beach slope and sediment transport rates and is a crucial criterion in selecting the appropriate fill material for beach nourishment. Yet, little is known about how and why beach grain size (and sorting) varies both spatially and temporally on high-energy sandy beaches. Therefore, in this PhD research project, the presence, magnitude and predictability of any spatio-temporal sediment variability was investigated on a number of contrasting high-energy (average significant wave height = 0.8 to 3.5 m), predominantly macrotidal (MSR = 3.1 – 6.2 m), sandy (0.26 – 0.64 mm) beach sites around the southwest peninsula of the United Kingdom (UK). The spatial extent of the data collected ranges from regional (one off snapshot of the sediment conditions on 53 beaches over 485 km of coastline) to local scales (repeated high-resolution samples from across the inter- and subtidal zone of a single high-energy sandy beach; Perranporth, UK). The temporal scales of the sampling ranges from tidal scale (~12 hours) up to monthly (long-term monitoring since 2008). A combination of traditional and modern field data collection methods has provided new insights into the sediment dynamics of sandy beaches. Surface and 0.25 m core sediment samples from the 53 beaches around the southwest UK and high-resolution digital measurements with longer 1 m sand cores from the intertidal zone, plus grab samples from the subtidal zone, at Perranporth, indicated the presence of three quasi-permanent spatial trends. On all sandy beaches, surface sediments became coarser (and better sorted) in the seaward direction across the intertidal zone. Peak sediment sizes were observed on the lower beach around mean low water springs, which were an average 19% coarser (and 8% better sorted) than sediments sampled on the upper intertidal beach. Sediment size (and sorting) also increased (improved) with distance down the sediment column over the top 0.25 m to 1 m. Peak sediment sizes at depth were an average 16% coarser (and 16% better sorted) than surface sediments. In the subtidal zone, surface sediments became finer and poorer sorted with increasing offshore distance. Minimum sediment size occurred on the subtidal bar crest and were an average 21% finer (and 51% poorer sorted) than the lower beach sediments and 5% finer (and 38% poorer sorted) than upper beach sediments. The coarsest sediments were usually the best sorted at all locations. The intertidal coarsening was deterministically linked to the location and amount of breaking wave-induced turbulence. The peak sediment sizes (and sorting) on the lower beach correlated with the location of peak wave dissipation (sediment size to amount of wave dissipation, r2 = 0.86) and the finer sediment sizes on the upper beach and bar were coincident with reduced amounts of wave dissipation in these regions. Long-term seasonal monitoring of the surface sediments at Perranporth indicated a background seasonality, where the winter months were an average 35% coarser and 22% better sorted than samples collected in summer. This seasonal pattern was punctuated by episodic storm events that promoted a significant coarsening (up to 112% in the extreme winter storms of 2014) of the surface sediments and significant beach erosion up to 175 m3/m. An empirical model forced by the degree of disequilibrium between an instantaneous and antecedent (weighted average) wave steepness time series was able to capture up to 86% of the sediment grain size and sorting variability, incorporating both the seasonal and storm driven change. The same model, applied to daily observations of sediment size and sorting changes was able to explain 72% of the variability. A conceptual model is proposed that extends the cross-shore sediment transport shape functions to include the various sediment (size and sorting) responses alongside the morphodynamic evolution during persistently high and low wave steepness conditions. Under high steepness waves, the finer material is preferentially removed from the lower intertidal beach, leaving behind coasrer sediments. This fine material is transported to the subtidal bar, which becomes finer (and more poorly sorted) inversely with the coarsening (and improved sorting) of the intertidal zone sediments. Under low steepness waves, this fine material is returned from the bar to the intertidal beach. This work provides a detailed, quantitative insight into the magnitude of sediment grain size and sorting changes exhibited by sandy beaches on a number of spatial and temporal scales. Several consistent trends were observed on a range of sandy beaches despite their different environmental conditions and geological histories. This improved understanding of sediment grain size and sorting changes on beaches will hopefully aid future research efforts and ensure that this fundamental aspect of coastal science is not overlooked or oversimplified.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the efficiencies of bioremediation of sandy beach contaminated by crude oil. In this study, we used two lab-scale tanks, tank-A and tank-B, to simulate a sandy beach contaminated by crude oil. In the experiments, we added the bioreagents and oleophilic fertilizers (Inipol EAP 22®) in order to enrich crude oil degradation of sandy beach. The crude oil was degraded by nature culture in tank-A, while the crude oil was degraded by the mixed culture of several pure strains¡]MO-1, KS-1, DS-4, PF-4, PH-2, B-1, TF and XY-2¡^. We divided the experiment into five stages in this study. In conclusion, we found that the oleophilic fertilizers could increase both of the growth rate of oil degradation bacteria and crude oil biodegradation rate. However, a part of the fertilizers might flow into the ocean due to idal current. The addition of mixed culture could help to improve the biodegradation rate of sandy beach contaminated by crude oil.

Predicting sediment transport at sandy beaches is a significant challenge in civil engineering owing to the variability in hydrodynamic, morphological, and geotechnical properties within a site and across multiple sites. Additionally, there are difficulties in measuring in-situ properties, and challenges in identifying and quantifying the different relevant driving and resisting forces. These challenges are further exacerbated in the intertidal zone where the addition of infiltration-exfiltration, wave run-up and run-down, bore collapse, cyclic emergence and submergence of sediments, interactions between standing waves and incident bores, and other processes must be considered. Among these many processes, pore pressure gradients within sandy beach sediments affect sediment transport by reducing the sediment's effective stress to zero (this process is called liquefaction). Despite the known importance of these pressure gradients with respect to sediment transport, there has been little field evidence of the role that these pore pressure gradients have on sediment transport, how they relate to the hydrodynamic properties, and their inclusion into predictive sediment transport equations. This study is based on field measurements of hydrodynamic and geotechnical properties, as well as pore pressure gradients during storm and non-storm conditions at sandy beaches in the intertidal zone. From the analysis of these field measurements, it was found that (1) liquefying pressure gradients are likely to develop in sediments that are rapidly inundated during storm conditions; (2) the magnitude of pore pressure gradients is related to the asymmetry of the pressure gradient and can occur with shoreward-directed near bed velocities; and (3) during non-storm conditions, pressure gradients that often do not exceed liquefaction criteria occurred more (less) frequently during a time period where erosion occurred in large (small) quantities, indicating that small non-liquefying pore pressure gradients may facilitate sediment transport. The results of this study demonstrate that current methods of scour calculations must include effects of pore pressure gradients to reduce error. Additionally, from this work it was found that sediment transport can be directed shoreward under momentary liquefaction. Finally, the results of this study show that sediment pore pressure gradients are related to wave skewness, spatial group steepness, and temporal group steepness which may aid modelling of pore pressure gradients. / Doctor of Philosophy / The transport of sediment particles (in this case, sand grains at beaches) is difficult to predict because of the many different governing processes that can be hard to measure, may be hard to relate to erosion or sediment accumulation specifically, and the variability in sediment and flow properties (grain size, fluid velocity, and others) at a specific location and across different locations. Storms, like hurricanes, tropical storms, and tsunamis, can drastically change the expected water properties (like water depth, wave height, and wave period), and the effects of water pressure within the sand bed. When a wave moves across the sand it causes a change in the water pressure that is within the sand. This water pressure is not the same throughout the sand with depth. When the gradient, or the difference between the water pressure at two different vertical locations, is large enough, the sand behaves like a fluid (like quicksand) and becomes easier to move, this process is called liquefaction. Even though previous work has shown that these pressure gradients (and the resulting liquefaction) is important for sediment transport, there have been few field measurements demonstrating their impact on sediment transport and how these gradients (and the resulting liquefaction) relate to wave and sand properties. This study presents field measurements of pressure gradients, wave and sediment properties, and sediment transport events during both storm and non-storm conditions. From these field measurements, it was shown that (1) during an extreme storm event, pressure gradients that liquefy the sediment are likely to occur on sediments that are not normally subjected to waves; (2) liquefying pressure gradients can occur when waves arrive at the beach, which may cause sediment to be moved shoreward; and (3) during non-storm conditions, pressure gradients that do not liquefy the sand occurred frequently during a sediment transport event, suggesting that these smaller pressure gradients may contribute to sediment transport by reducing the effective weight of the sediment. This work can be used to further understand the behavior of sediment pore pressure gradients, their relation to hydrodynamic properties, and how they influence sediment transport allowing for better predictions of sediment transport, beach nourishment calculations, and the design of coastal structures.

Tese(doutorado) - Universidade Federal do Rio Grande, Programa de Pós–Graduação em Oceanografia Biológica, Instituto de Oceanografia, 2012. / Submitted by Cristiane Gomides (cristiane_gomides@hotmail.com) on 2013-11-19T12:24:44Z No. of bitstreams: 1 fernanda.pdf: 1386021 bytes, checksum: e67fec86c13546d730d06a2d26086f69 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Angelica Miranda (angelicacdm@gmail.com) on 2013-11-20T21:40:54Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 fernanda.pdf: 1386021 bytes, checksum: e67fec86c13546d730d06a2d26086f69 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2013-11-20T21:40:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 fernanda.pdf: 1386021 bytes, checksum: e67fec86c13546d730d06a2d26086f69 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012 / Na zona de arrebentação de praias arenosas e expostas ocorrem acumulações de diatomáceas, as quais são importantes produtores primários. Visando entender se existe uma variação espacial e temporal do fitoplâncton na zona de arrebentação da Praia do Cassino, foram analisadas semanalmente cinco estações no período de deposição lama (maio a julho de 2009), e posteriormente (agosto de 2009 a abril 2010) três estações quinzenalmente ao longo de 21 km. As relações entre variáveis ambientais e a composição e biomassa do fitoplâncton foram comparadas, verificando-se que a deposição de lama influenciou a transparência da água, mas não foi detectada diferença significativa entre os valores médios de nutrientes e de clorofila a nas estações ao longo do ano. As diatomáceas foram dominantes, destacando-se a contribuição de cêntricas unicelulares do microplâncton e Skeletonema spp., e das penadas Asterionellopsis glacialis e Pseudo-nitzschia sp. Porém, a densidade de A. glacialis encontrada neste ano foi menor do que em anos anteriores, enquanto os gêneros planctônicos Skeletonema e Pseudo-nitzschia apareceram em alta densidade. Em laboratório foram realizados experimentos curtos com enriquecimento de nutrientes inorgânicos dissolvidos testando-se ao todo sete proporções de silicato, nitrato e fosfato, com objetivo de determinar sua influência sobre as microalgas da Praia do Cassino. Como resultado, a biomassa fitoplanctônica exibiu um aumento significativo nos tratamentos com adição de nitrato, independentemente da proporção adicionada, indicando que o nitrato é o nutriente mais importante no controle da biomassa e do crescimento das diatomáceas da Praia do Cassino. / In the surf zone of exposed sandy beaches significant accumulations of diatoms occur, which are important primary producers. In order to determine the spatial and temporal variability of phytoplankton in the surf zone, five and three stations were studied in the period with mud deposition (weekly sampling, May to July 2009) and without (every two weeks, August 2009 to April 2010), respectively, along 21 km of Cassino Beach. The relationships among environmental variables and phytoplankton composition and concentration were compared. The influence of mud was evident on the water transparency, but not on the mean values of nutrients and chlorophyll a. The diatoms were dominant, emphasizing the contribution of the unicellular centric microplankton and Skeletonema spp., and the pennates Asterionellopsis glacialis and Pseudo-nitzschia spp. However, the density of A. glacialis found in this study was lower than in previous years. Moreover, the planktonic species Skeletonema and Pseudo-nitzschia appeared in high density. In laboratory, short experiments were performed with dissolved inorganic nutrient enrichment by testing seven proportions of silicate, nitrate and phosphate, in order to determine their influence on the microalgae from Cassino Beach. In both experiments, density showed a significant increase (mainly diatoms) in the treatments with nitrate addition, regardless of the proportion added, showing that nitrate is the most important nutrient controlling diatoms density and growth at the sandy Cassino Beach.

O objetivo deste trabalho foi analisar a distribuição espaço-temporal de um representante da macrofauna de praias arenosas protegidas. As abordagens em diferentes escalas (mesoescala, microescala e escala temporal) foram empregadas. O gastrópode Olivella minuta, abundante na região entremarés da Baía do Araçá, foi utilizado para essas análises. Para o estudo em mesoescala, 16 estações foram demarcadas na região entremarés (julho/2009) e, em cada uma, foram coletadas 8 amostras biológicas e 3 de sedimento. Alguns fatores abióticos (carbonato de cálcio, matéria orgânica e coeficiente de seleção) influenciaram negativamente a abundância do gastrópode, enquanto relações entre O. minuta e as demais espécies da macrofauna não foram evidentes. Em microescala, em poças de maré (metros) e em \"ripple marks\" (centímetros) verificou-se que em escala de centímetros, o gastrópode foi mais abundante em locais com maior conteúdo de água no sedimento, enquanto em escala de metros a abundância não diferiu dentro e fora das poças. Em escala temporal, foram observadas flutuações mensais da densidade da população de O. minuta, com diminuição/ausência de indivíduos entre fevereiro e março, o que sugere a ocorrência de migrações e mortalidade. O presente trabalho mostrou que a distribuição desse gastrópode é influenciada por diferentes fatores que atuam em diferentes escalas. / The objective of this study was to analyze the temporal and spatial distribution of one of the species representative of the macrofauna of sheltered sandy beaches. Measurements using different scales (mesoscale, microscale and time scale) were utilized. The gastropod Olivella minuta, which is abundant in the intertidal region of Baía do Araçá, was used for these analyses. For the mesoscale study, 16 stations were determined within the intertidal region (July/2009) and, in each station, 8 biological samples and 3 samples of sediment were collected. Some abiotic factors (calcium carbonate, organic matter and selection coefficient) had a negative influence on the abundance of the gastropod, while relationship between the O. minuta and other species of the macrofauna were not evident. In a microscale study of tidal ponds (meters) and ripple marks (centimeters), it was observed that, in a centimeter scale, the gastropod was more abundant in places where there was more water in the sediment, whereas in a meter scale the abundance didn\'t vary in or out of the ponds. In a temporal scale, monthly fluctuations of the O. minuta population\'s density were observed, with reduction/absence of individuals between February and March, which suggests that migration and mortality occurred. This study showed that the distribution of O. minuta is influenced by different factors which act in different scales.

O objetivo deste trabalho foi analisar a distribuição espaço-temporal de um representante da macrofauna de praias arenosas protegidas. As abordagens em diferentes escalas (mesoescala, microescala e escala temporal) foram empregadas. O gastrópode Olivella minuta, abundante na região entremarés da Baía do Araçá, foi utilizado para essas análises. Para o estudo em mesoescala, 16 estações foram demarcadas na região entremarés (julho/2009) e, em cada uma, foram coletadas 8 amostras biológicas e 3 de sedimento. Alguns fatores abióticos (carbonato de cálcio, matéria orgânica e coeficiente de seleção) influenciaram negativamente a abundância do gastrópode, enquanto relações entre O. minuta e as demais espécies da macrofauna não foram evidentes. Em microescala, em poças de maré (metros) e em \"ripple marks\" (centímetros) verificou-se que em escala de centímetros, o gastrópode foi mais abundante em locais com maior conteúdo de água no sedimento, enquanto em escala de metros a abundância não diferiu dentro e fora das poças. Em escala temporal, foram observadas flutuações mensais da densidade da população de O. minuta, com diminuição/ausência de indivíduos entre fevereiro e março, o que sugere a ocorrência de migrações e mortalidade. O presente trabalho mostrou que a distribuição desse gastrópode é influenciada por diferentes fatores que atuam em diferentes escalas. / The objective of this study was to analyze the temporal and spatial distribution of one of the species representative of the macrofauna of sheltered sandy beaches. Measurements using different scales (mesoscale, microscale and time scale) were utilized. The gastropod Olivella minuta, which is abundant in the intertidal region of Baía do Araçá, was used for these analyses. For the mesoscale study, 16 stations were determined within the intertidal region (July/2009) and, in each station, 8 biological samples and 3 samples of sediment were collected. Some abiotic factors (calcium carbonate, organic matter and selection coefficient) had a negative influence on the abundance of the gastropod, while relationship between the O. minuta and other species of the macrofauna were not evident. In a microscale study of tidal ponds (meters) and ripple marks (centimeters), it was observed that, in a centimeter scale, the gastropod was more abundant in places where there was more water in the sediment, whereas in a meter scale the abundance didn\'t vary in or out of the ponds. In a temporal scale, monthly fluctuations of the O. minuta population\'s density were observed, with reduction/absence of individuals between February and March, which suggests that migration and mortality occurred. This study showed that the distribution of O. minuta is influenced by different factors which act in different scales.

Ces travaux de thèse concernent la morpho-dynamique d'une plage de poche sableuse, située en environnement macrotidal. L'étude est menée sur la plage de Porsmilin, une plage de type intermédiaire avec une terrasse de basse mer. Cette étude s’appuie sur des observations in situ acquises lors de campagnes de mesures, organisées au cours de cette thèse. Le principal objectif est de caractériser le rôle de la pente, dans l'équilibre dynamique existant entre les processus hydrodynamiques et la morphologie de la plage. La dynamique des niveaux d’eau, de la propagation des ondes infragravitaires et de la turbulence sont examinés et mis en regard des variations morphologiques de la plage, en particulier de la pente locale de la plage. Les niveaux d’eau sont globalement sous-estimés par les formulations empiriques proposées dans la littérature. Des formules adaptées au site de Porsmilin sont présentées. L’impact de la brisure de pente observée le long du profil de plage sur la dynamique de la plage, est étudié. La variabilité de la position de la brisure de pente est impliquée dans les processus d’accommodation à court terme de la plage. Cela se traduit par un retrait vers le haut de plage de la brisure de pente, permettant une dissipation plus efficace de l’énergie incidente par la terrasse de basse mer. En revanche, ce retrait peut conduire, à une concentration d’énergie importante en haut de plage, lors de conditions particulièrement énergétiques, associées à un marnage important. La position de la brisure de pente pourrait être un bon indicateur de l'état de vulnérabilité de la plage face à des évènements énergétiques, ce qui constitue une information primordiale dans le contexte actuel d’érosion généralisée des littoraux sableux. / This PhD work is focused on the morphodynamic of a pocket beach, located in a macrotidal environment. The beach type is intermediate, with a low tide terrace. The study is based on in situ observations, collected during field campaigns organized during the PhD. The objective is to characterize the beach slope impact on hydrodynamics processes and beach morphology. The water levels dynamic, infragravity waves propagation and turbulence generation in the swash zone, are examined and linked to the beach slope variability.The empirical formulations proposed in the literature show large under-estimations of water levels in the site. Empirical formulations adapted to the beach are proposed.The characteristic break slope presents along the cross-shore profile of low tide terrace beaches is studied. The variability of the break slope location is relevant to explain the short term accommodation of the beach. Under incident wave energy, the location of the beach slope moves shoreward, allowing higher wave dissipation by the low tide terrace. Nevertheless, the reflective part is reduced, which leads to a vulnerable state of the upper beach under strong forcing associated with high tide. The location of the beach slope is found to be a good indicator of the beach vulnerability under a given wave forcing. It provides valuable information in the globalized beach erosion context.

Early life stages of many marine and diadromous fish species use sandy beach surf zones, which occur along >50% of the world's marine coastlines. This extensive habitat can provide juvenile fishes with an abundant supply of potential prey and the ability to hide from predators in its shallow turbid waters. Chinook salmon is an anadromous species that migrates to the ocean during their first (subyearlings) or second (yearlings) year of life. The majority of subyearlings reside in estuaries during their first summer season; however, a small number of juveniles also use surf zones. Early marine residence is considered a critical period for Chinook salmon due to high mortality rates; however the role of surf zones in Chinook salmon life history is unclear. Therefore, I determined the distribution of juvenile Chinook salmon on beaches of the eastern North Pacific, compared the migration and growth patterns observed in surf zones and estuaries, identified the factors that accounted for variation in juvenile surf zone catch, explored the factors that influence growth rate variation in surf zones and estuaries, and modeled how growth rates in these coastal habitats may vary in the near future with predicted changes in climate. The majority (94%) of juveniles were caught in surf zones adjacent to estuaries with trough areas, which are beach sections where sand moved by currents and waves produce a trench-like shape. Surf zone fish were collected in significantly lower numbers than estuarine juveniles but entered brackish/ocean waters at similar sizes. Juveniles in surf zones consumed similar organisms (gammarid amphipods, crustacean larvae and insects) as in estuaries. Furthermore, stomach fullness indices (average = 2% of body weight) and growth rates (average = 0.4 mm day�����) were similar in surf zones and estuaries. At one surf zone, juvenile catch was positively correlated to short-term specific growth rates (14 days prior to capture). A bioenergetics modeling approach indicated that given current conditions, consumption rates accounted for more of the variation in growth than prey energetic content and temperature. Climate models predict future increases in fresh water temperature (1.5 to 5.8��C), sea surface temperature (1.2��C) and wave height (0.75 m) that could influence estuarine and surf zone use. Therefore, I developed a local mixing model based on these predictions to estimate future surf zone and estuarine water temperatures in two of the watersheds studied. Based on these temperature projections and the bioenergetics model, I predicted how juvenile specific growth rates would vary in both habitats. I determined that increases in water temperature in both habitats would reduce specific growth rates by 9 to 40% in surf zones and estuaries if diet composition and consumption rates remain similar to present conditions. To compensate for the decline in growth, juveniles may increase their consumption rates or consume more energetically rich prey, if available. If they are not able to compensate, their size at the end of the season may be reduced, which could reduce their overall survival. These results confirm that a small number of suyearling Chinook salmon use sandy beach surf zones, mostly adjacent to estuary mouths, where they experience growth conditions comparable to estuaries. My findings indicate that, in certain situations, juvenile Chinook salmon surf zone use can be influenced by surf zone growth conditions, while variation in growth rates are themselves most strongly influenced by variation in consumption rates in surf zones and estuaries. Predicted changes in coastal western North American climate will likely modify juvenile growth conditions in the next 50 years, and potentially reduce overall survival. Additional insights into the potential impacts of climate change on juvenile salmon will require estimates of changes in the composition, energetic quality and abundance of prey communities inhabiting coastal environments. / Graduation date: 2013