This thesis examines the effects of overconsumption of clothing in the Global North on African textile industries through increased donations to secondhand stores. I begin by explaining how the growth of the fast fashion industry has increased the purchase and production of clothing over the recent decades. As an industry built on trends that quickly go in and out of style, fast fashion has resulted in massive amounts of unworn clothing. Consumers either throw away or donate their clothing, each of which result in either environmental or economic challenges. I explore post-consumer clothing’s donation route. Most donated clothing goes to secondhand stores such as Goodwill and The Salvation Army. However, with increasing amounts of donations going to these stores, they’ve reached a point in which they can no longer sell as quickly as they receive. Leftovers are sent overseas as a philanthropic action, but are met with concern from economists. Foreign aid to developing countries has been a topic of debate, critiqued as a lazy way of providing a short-term benefit with possibly detrimental long-term results. Introducing post-consumer clothing into African clothing markets raises the concern that they will replace local textile industries. I look at existing literature and fieldwork on this issue in order to examine the effects on textile industries in several countries. While the effects vary in differing countries and there are several other variables involved, such as market and political conditions, collective research shows that used-clothing donations account for 40% of the decline in apparel and textile production in an average African country.

West Africa’s textile and clothing (T&C) industries have persevered through the decline following the economic liberalization policies in the 1980s. This thesis seeks to explore the sustainable and circular business models which exist in the West African region. It also explores the ways that businesses relate to the social conditions of poverty, a small T&C industry, strong competition from imports, and the concentrated levels of imported textile waste. Through a qualitative methodology, secondary data is collected on thirty T&C businesses in West Africa. These businesses are analyzed through the framework of the eleven sustainable business model (SBM) pattern groups by Lüdeke-Freund, et al. (2018). In the results, five main SBM pattern groups emerge: Supply Chain, Social Mission, Closing-the-Loop, Eco-design, and Cooperative pattern groups. Most of the businesses do not fall neatly into one pattern, but rather embody various hybrid sustainable business models. West Africa is unusual in facing both high poverty rates and textile waste landfills, which may influence the multi-dimensional approach to sustainability. By working with the local textile value chain and artisan communities, the thirty businesses contribute to poverty alleviation. They also pave the way for ‘artisan futurism,’ where handicraft is combined with circularity and eco-design initiatives, leading the West African T&C industry into the future.