Light skin color sits within a space of privilege. While this has global significance and relevance, it is particularly true in Jamaica, a former British colony. The majority of the population is of African descent, yet there is an elevation of Eurocentric values and a denigration of Afrocentric values in many facets of life, specifically in the promotion of light skin as an indicator of beauty and social status. The purpose of this study was to examine the psychological and socio-cultural factors that influence the practice of skin bleaching in the postcolonial society of Jamaica. Additionally, the study outlined the nation's efforts to combat the skin-bleaching phenomenon. The naturalistic paradigm of inquiry was used to frame the study and to collect and analyze data. The sample consisted of fifteen participants—twelve participants (six males and six females) with a history of skin bleaching; a retailer of skin lightening products; a local dermatologist who has written and published in local newspapers on the practice; and a representative from the Ministry of Health who was integrally involved in the national educational efforts to ban the practice. Data came from three sources: in-depth interviews with respondents; observation of participant's skin-bleaching practices; and a review of local cultural artifacts from popular culture and the media. Data from the audio recorded and transcribed interviews were analyzed using a thematic analysis. Some of the findings reveal that there are multiple and inconsistent definitions of bleaching; skin bleaching enjoys mixed reviews—much attributed to economic and social class distinctions; bleachers demonstrate and boast of their expertise in managing the bleaching process suggesting, that because of this expertise, they are immune to any negative side-effects of the practice; the bleaching practice was found to be intermittent, time consuming and laborious, costly and addictive; there are several motivations for the skin-bleaching practice, and these are primarily connected to issues of fashion, beauty, popularity, self-image and acceptability; there is a certain level of defiance towards the government‘s efforts to ban bleaching yet an expressed sense of responsibility among bleachers. The overall findings show that there is a bias in Jamaica for light skin over dark skin and these values are taught in non-formal and informal ways from very early in life. The practice of skin bleaching is of social and public health concern, and this study has implications for national policy, practice and theory.

No description available.

This thesis examines how skin bleaching can be understood within the cultural context of Jamaican dancehall. I argue that as a cultural practice, skin bleaching can be viewed as a critique of the concomitant structural inequalities precipitated by colorism, which is a by-product of racism. In proposing skin bleaching as a queer performance of color, I attempt to illustrate the manner in which the lightening of the skin exposes the instability of racism and colorism as socially constructed, discursive regimes. If race and skin color are biological and embodied facts dictated by social reality, then bodies, which are racially marked and colored subjects, can be used to project counter discourses that challenge these specific regimes. The space of discursive limit imposed on the racialized or colored body-subject is a space from which critiques of dominant discourses can be projected, and bleaching does precisely that. I conclude therefore, that skin bleaching is performed resistance which challenges the dominating discourses on race by first destabilizing the notion that skin color is an immutable biological fact, and second by contesting subsequent discourses that are contingent on the “facts” of color and race.

La dépigmentation volontaire est une pratique bien connue en Afrique sub-saharienne. Elle se définit comme une pratique par laquelle une personne, de sa propre initiative, tente de diminuer la pigmentation mélanique physiologique de sa propre peau. Les utilisateurs appliquent sur le corps, généralement sans surveillance médicale, de manière soutenue et prolongée, des produits ou des mélanges chimiques composés d’actifs dépigmentants souvent d’une grande nocivité.<p>Cette pratique est documentée dans plusieurs pays d’Afrique sub-saharienne (Sénégal, Mali, Burkina Faso, Togo, Nigéria, ….), et sur d’autres continents. Face à l’absence de données chiffrées pour le Rwanda, nous avons réalisé une étude des pratiques de la dépigmentation volontaire dans la capitale du pays, Kigali. <p>Au Rwanda, certaines plantes étaient utilisées lors des grandes cérémonies comme le mariage, spécialement par les femmes et les jeunes filles, pour éclaircir la peau. Une peau claire semble en fait un critère de beauté dans certaines traditions africaines. Nous avons donc réalisé une enquête ethnobotanique auprès de 61 tradipraticiens rwandais, afin de connaître les plantes qui, avant l’arrivée de la cosmétique moderne, étaient utilisées pour « embellir » (éclaircir) la peau, afin de vérifier si ces plantes pourraient interférer avec la production de la mélanine. <p>Notre enquête nous a permis de documenter 28 espèces, dont cinq [Brillantaisia cicatricosa LINDAU; Chenopodium ugandae (Aellen) Aellen ;Dolichopentas longiflora Oliv. Protea madiensis Oliv. subsp. Madiensis et Sesamum angolense Welw.] se sont distinguées par leur pourcentage de citation par les tradipraticiens. Ces dernières ont fait objet de notre étude de laboratoire. <p>Des extraits de polarité croissante, préparés à partir de ces cinq plantes, ont été testés pour leur modulation de la mélanogénèse et de la tyrosinase (enzyme clé de la mélanogenèse) sur une série de modèles: (i) sur la tyrosinase humaine dans les extraits totaux de mélanocytes normaux; (ii) sur des mélanocytes malins en culture (pour évaluer l’effet global des extraits de plante sur la mélanogenèse); (iii) sur la tyrosinase de champignon en solution et sur chromatoplaque de silice; et enfin (iv) sur l’activité tyrosine hydroxylase de l'enzyme. <p>Deux extraits à l’acétate d’éthyle de Protea madiensis Oliv. et de Sesamum angolense Welw. ont été sélectionnés pour leur activité, respectivement inhibitrice et activatrice de la tyrosinase de champignon. Ces deux extraits ont été soumis à une série de fractionnements dans le but d’isoler et d’identifier des composés actifs. Trois composés ont été isolés de Protea madiensis (2-tridécanone, acide oléique et β-sitostérol). La 2-tridécanone et l’acide oléique ont montré une inhibition de la tyrosinase de champignon sur chromatoplaque et de la tyrosinase humaine dans les extraits cellulaires. De plus, la 2-tridécanone a montré une inhibition de l’activité tyrosine hydroxylase. Le β-sitostérol n’a pas montré d’effet sur nos modèles mais il a déjà été isolé dans d’autres études en tant qu'inhibiteur de la tyrosinase. De l’extrait à l’acétate d’éthyle de Sesamum angolense Welw. nous avons isolé l’acide ursolique qui a montré une augmentation de l’activité de la tyrosinase de champignon sur chromatoplaque.<p>L’enquête ethnobotanique nous a permis de constater que la flore rwandaise regorge de plantes aux vertus cosmétiques intéressantes; celles-ci pourraient représenter une alternative aux actifs dépigmentants connus pour leurs nombreux effets secondaires mais néanmoins largement disponibles sur le marché rwandais. <p>L’enquête réalisée dans la ville de Kigali, nous a permis de constater que 27 % de notre population d’étude sont des utilisateurs conscients de produits dépigmentants. Ce pourcentage nous semble fort élevé et des mesures devraient être prises pour la sensibilisation et la conscientisation de la population quant aux risques encourus et à l’existence de médecines traditionnelles à visée dépigmentante. Ces mesures devraient être combinées avec la recherche de composés naturels dans l'espoir d'identifier des molécules actives et faiblement toxiques, voire atoxiques. <p>L’étude de la modulation de la pigmentation par les extraits des cinq plantes sélectionnées, nous a permis de confirmer l’information reçue des tradipraticiens. Cette étude nous a également montré que ces extraits de plantes renferment des activateurs de la mélanogenèse, qui pourraient être exploités pour le bronzage recherché par les sujets de peau claire.<p>L’isolement et identification de molécules à partir des extraits de deux plantes, nous a permis de constater que notre méthode de bioguidage fonctionne correctement; des mesures de déréplications devraient cependant être prises pour éviter autant que possible de retomber sur des molécules déjà connues./<p><p><p>Voluntary depigmentation, well-known in sub-Saharan Africa, is defined as a practice by which a person, by his/her own initiative, attempts to reduce his/her skin physiological melanin pigmentation. Users apply on the body, usually without medical supervision, in a sustained and prolonged manner, depigmenting compounds, single or in mixtures.<p>This quite harmful practice is documented in several sub-Saharan African countries (Senegal, Mali, Togo, Nigeria…) and in other continents. The absence of Rwandese data prompted us to conduct a study of the practices of voluntary depigmentation in the capital, Kigali.<p>In Rwanda, some plants were used during important ceremonies like wedding (marriage) especially by women and girls to lighten their skin. Fair skin is actually considered as a beauty criterion in some African traditions.<p>We conducted an ethnobotanical survey of 61 Rwandan traditional healers to identify the plants that were used before the introduction of modern cosmetics to "beautify" (lighten) the skin in order to check wether these plants could interfere with the production of melanin.<p>Our survey allowed us to identify and collect 28 species, of which 5 were selected (retained) for their higher percentage of citation by traditional healers [Brillantaisia cicatricosa LINDAU; Chenopodium ugandae (Aellen) Aellen ;Dolichopentas longiflora Oliv. Protea madiensis Oliv. subsp. madiensis and Sesamum angolense Welw.]. These five species have been used for our laboratory study.<p><p>Extracts of increasing polarities were prepared from the five plants and tested for their ability to modulate melanogenesis and tyrosinase (the key enzyme of melanogenesis) in a series of models: (i) human tyrosinase in total extracts from normal melanocytes; (ii) malignant melanocytes in culture (in order to assess the global effect of plant extracts on melanogenesis); (iii) mushroom tyrosinase in solution and on TLC plate; and finally (iv) tyrosine hydroxylase activity of the enzyme.<p>Two ethyl acetate extracts of Protea madiensis Oliv. and of Sesamum angolense Welw have been selected according to their respective inhibitory and activating effect on mushroom tyrosinase. These two extracts were fractionated to isolate and identify active compounds. Three compounds have been isolated from Protea madiensis (2-tridecanone, oleic acid and β-sitosterol). The 2-tridecanone and the oleic acid showed an inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase on TLC and human tyrosinase in cellular extracts. In addition, 2-tridecanone showed an inhibition of the tyrosine hydroxylase activity. β-sitostérol showed no effect on our models but has been identified, in other studies, as a tyrosinase inhibitor. From the ethyl acetate extract of Sesamum angolense, we isolated ursolic acid which increases the mushroom tyrosinase activity on TLC.<p>The ethnobotanical survey allowed us to (state) notice that Rwandan flora contains plants that have interesting cosmetic properties and could be an alternative to the use of harmful depigmenting products which are sold on Rwandese markets.<p>The survey conducted in Kigali city indicates that 27 % of surveyed persons are conscious users of depigmenting products. This percentage seems very high so that measures should be taken to raise awareness about the involved risks and of the existence of traditional medicines with such depigmenting effects. These measures should be accompanied (combined) with the search for natural compounds with depigmenting effect in the hope to identify actives that would be weakly or even non toxic at all.<p>The study of the pigmentation modulation by five selected plant extracts allowed to confirm the information obtained from traditional healers. It also indicates that, apart from an inhibitory effect, some of our plant extracts also contain melanogenesis activators that could be further exploited for tanning, an aspiration of fair-skinned individuals.<p>The isolation and identification of molecules from two plants extracts led us to conclude that our “bioguidance” method performs adequately. Nevertheless, some dereplication measures should be implemented to avoid spending time on isolating already known molecules. <p><p> <p> / Doctorat en Sciences biomédicales et pharmaceutiques / info:eu-repo/semantics/nonPublished

This thesis deals with problems of biological and cultural determinants influencing perception of beauty. It attempts to find out if there is a common biological basis of perception of beauty or if beauty represents merely a sociocultural construct - product of a specific culture. With respect to biological determinants it concerns biological processes significantly influencing perception of beauty. In this context, these processes include probably innate evolutionary adaptations, effects of brain cognitive systems and neural correlates processing perceptions of beautiful objects. In connection with cultural determinants it presents studies emphasizing cross-cultural differences in perception of beauty. Further subject of the thesis is an aesthetic conception of subjective and objective beauty and related concept of beauty based on mathematical relations. In this connection, the creation of universally beautiful objects based on fixed mathematical rules as well as the possibility of exact measurement of beauty are discussed.