Thesis (Ph. D.)--Johns Hopkins University, 1915. / Vita. Published also as Johns Hopkins university studies in historical and political science, ser XXXVI, no. 2. Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Columbia University, 1985. / Includes documents in Latin. Typescript. eContent provider-neutral record in process. Description based on print version record. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 633-646).

Thèse-Univ. de Poitiers. / Original covers bound in. "Bibliographie": 3d prelim. leaf.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Johns Hopkins University, 1915. / Vita. Published also as Johns Hopkins university studies in historical and political science, ser XXXVI, no. 2. Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Columbia University, 1985. / Includes documents in Latin. Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 633-646).

Thesis (doctoral)--Universität Hannover, 2003. / Includes bibliographical references (p. [185]-198).

Thesis (doctoral)--Universität Hannover, 2003. / Includes bibliographical references (p. [185]-198).

Xingshi Yinyuan Zhuan 醒世姻缘传 (The Story of a Marital Fate to Awaken the World) is a 100-chapter, 100,000-character Chinese magnum opus written under the pseudonymous aegis of the seventeenth-century writer Xizhou Sheng 西周生. The novel primarily concerns itself with a curious reversal of power dynamics and relations in the institution of marriage, namely henpecking. To do so, the novel weaves into its narrative, both in the personalities and the events it illustrates, great details of Ming material life. It is through this literary snapshot of material culture that this dissertation is able to investigate the practices and custom of clothing, food and travel, three of the "four major concerns of the people's livelihood", known as yishizhuxing 衣食住行 in Chinese. The project, while frequenting economic dimensions and probing the impact that Ming politics had on the ethos and social economy of the period, sheds significant, if not equal, light on folk custom, legal and religious practices and women's status, among other issues. Although this dissertation allocates one chapter to the surveying of Ming sumptuary laws and ethos as evidenced by the "guxiu incident," the struggle between the forces of conservative social hierarchy and the growing market as a feature of Ming material life is a question that runs throughout the entire composition.

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Submitted by Geandra Rodrigues (geandrar@gmail.com) on 2018-06-18T14:17:24Z No. of bitstreams: 1 thaianagomesvieira.pdf: 2856828 bytes, checksum: e00adab9785887bdee3baf36c4561665 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2018-06-27T11:54:36Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 thaianagomesvieira.pdf: 2856828 bytes, checksum: e00adab9785887bdee3baf36c4561665 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-06-27T11:54:36Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 thaianagomesvieira.pdf: 2856828 bytes, checksum: e00adab9785887bdee3baf36c4561665 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-05-08 / O tema que pesquiso refere-se às formas de controle da vestimenta na Baixa Idade Média. Utilizo como documento “leis suntuárias” elaboradas na Península Ibérica, especificamente na região de Valladolid, nos séculos XIII e XIV. Assim, o objetivo do trabalho não é realizar uma simples descrição linear sobre a história da moda, mas pensá-la como objeto representativo da história, pois se articula a diversos fenômenos políticos, econômicos e sociais. No caso, buscamos verificar como as leis controlam as vestimentas, sejam das camadas ascendentes, dos grupos sociais marginalizados (como por exemplo, judeus, mouros ou prostitutas), as restrições dos adornos, cores e tecidos, e analisar porque eram estabelecidas. O período da Baixa Idade Média é bastante intenso e fecundo em normatividades, e ainda, momento de surgimento do que consideramos moda. As vestimentas são, nesse momento, representações sócio-políticas e as leis suntuárias reconhecem e registram as diferentes condições dos habitantes da comunidade. Desse modo, tratar do controle exercido pelas autoridades na sociedade da Baixa Idade Média na Península Ibérica por meio das vestimentas é pertinente e tema pouco explorado. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo principal verificar quais eram as motivações da instituição monárquica de Valladolid ao legislar sobre as roupas nos séculos finais da Idade Média. Além de analisar qual a relevância da aparência nesta mesma região; explorar a historiografia referente à indumentária e o controle social na Baixa Idade Média e identificar as leis referentes ao controle da indumentária outorgadas na Península Ibérica. / My research subject refers to dress control forms in the Late Middle Ages. I use as document the "sumptuary laws" elaborated in the Iberian Peninsula, specifically in the region of Valladolid, in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Thus, the purpose is not to perform a simple linear description about the fashion history, but to think of it as an representative object of history, because it's related to many political, economic and social aspects. In this case, we verify how laws control clothing, whether from higher social levels, marginalized social groups (eg jews, moors or prostitutes), restrictions on adornments, colors and fabrics, and we also analyze why this laws were established. The period of the Late Middle Ages is quite intense and fecund in normativities, and is also the moment of emergence of what we consider fashion. The garments are, at that moment, socio-political representations and the sumptuary laws recognize and record the different conditions of the community inhabitants. Thus, talk about the control exercised by the authorities in the society of the Late Middle Ages in the Iberian Peninsula through the clothing is pertinent and a subject rarely explored. The present work has as main objective to verify what were the motivations of the monarchical institution of Valladolid when legislating on the clothes in the final centuries of Middle Age. In addition to analyzing the relevance of appearance in this same region; to explore the historiography referring to the dress and social control in the Late Middle Ages and to identify the laws regarding the clothing control granted in the Iberian Peninsula.