Thesis (Ph. D.)--Johns Hopkins University, 1915. / Vita. Published also as Johns Hopkins university studies in historical and political science, ser XXXVI, no. 2. Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Columbia University, 1985. / Includes documents in Latin. Typescript. eContent provider-neutral record in process. Description based on print version record. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 633-646).

Thèse-Univ. de Poitiers. / Original covers bound in. "Bibliographie": 3d prelim. leaf.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Johns Hopkins University, 1915. / Vita. Published also as Johns Hopkins university studies in historical and political science, ser XXXVI, no. 2. Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Columbia University, 1985. / Includes documents in Latin. Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 633-646).

Thesis (doctoral)--Universität Hannover, 2003. / Includes bibliographical references (p. [185]-198).

Thesis (doctoral)--Universität Hannover, 2003. / Includes bibliographical references (p. [185]-198).

Submitted by Geandra Rodrigues (geandrar@gmail.com) on 2018-06-18T14:17:24Z No. of bitstreams: 1 thaianagomesvieira.pdf: 2856828 bytes, checksum: e00adab9785887bdee3baf36c4561665 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2018-06-27T11:54:36Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 thaianagomesvieira.pdf: 2856828 bytes, checksum: e00adab9785887bdee3baf36c4561665 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-06-27T11:54:36Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 thaianagomesvieira.pdf: 2856828 bytes, checksum: e00adab9785887bdee3baf36c4561665 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-05-08 / O tema que pesquiso refere-se às formas de controle da vestimenta na Baixa Idade Média. Utilizo como documento “leis suntuárias” elaboradas na Península Ibérica, especificamente na região de Valladolid, nos séculos XIII e XIV. Assim, o objetivo do trabalho não é realizar uma simples descrição linear sobre a história da moda, mas pensá-la como objeto representativo da história, pois se articula a diversos fenômenos políticos, econômicos e sociais. No caso, buscamos verificar como as leis controlam as vestimentas, sejam das camadas ascendentes, dos grupos sociais marginalizados (como por exemplo, judeus, mouros ou prostitutas), as restrições dos adornos, cores e tecidos, e analisar porque eram estabelecidas. O período da Baixa Idade Média é bastante intenso e fecundo em normatividades, e ainda, momento de surgimento do que consideramos moda. As vestimentas são, nesse momento, representações sócio-políticas e as leis suntuárias reconhecem e registram as diferentes condições dos habitantes da comunidade. Desse modo, tratar do controle exercido pelas autoridades na sociedade da Baixa Idade Média na Península Ibérica por meio das vestimentas é pertinente e tema pouco explorado. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo principal verificar quais eram as motivações da instituição monárquica de Valladolid ao legislar sobre as roupas nos séculos finais da Idade Média. Além de analisar qual a relevância da aparência nesta mesma região; explorar a historiografia referente à indumentária e o controle social na Baixa Idade Média e identificar as leis referentes ao controle da indumentária outorgadas na Península Ibérica. / My research subject refers to dress control forms in the Late Middle Ages. I use as document the "sumptuary laws" elaborated in the Iberian Peninsula, specifically in the region of Valladolid, in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Thus, the purpose is not to perform a simple linear description about the fashion history, but to think of it as an representative object of history, because it's related to many political, economic and social aspects. In this case, we verify how laws control clothing, whether from higher social levels, marginalized social groups (eg jews, moors or prostitutes), restrictions on adornments, colors and fabrics, and we also analyze why this laws were established. The period of the Late Middle Ages is quite intense and fecund in normativities, and is also the moment of emergence of what we consider fashion. The garments are, at that moment, socio-political representations and the sumptuary laws recognize and record the different conditions of the community inhabitants. Thus, talk about the control exercised by the authorities in the society of the Late Middle Ages in the Iberian Peninsula through the clothing is pertinent and a subject rarely explored. The present work has as main objective to verify what were the motivations of the monarchical institution of Valladolid when legislating on the clothes in the final centuries of Middle Age. In addition to analyzing the relevance of appearance in this same region; to explore the historiography referring to the dress and social control in the Late Middle Ages and to identify the laws regarding the clothing control granted in the Iberian Peninsula.

[pt] Esta tese examina como as mudanças ocorridas na sociedade ocidental moderna modificaram a relação entre as pessoas e o vestir, construindo as bases para o desenvolvimento de um fenômeno conhecido como moda. Nos períodos anteriores à modernidade, principalmente na Idade Média e no Antigo Regime, verificamos a existência das vestimentas como uma marcação social, prevalecendo a concepção holista de mundo. Nesses períodos, havia uma ordem hierárquica e estamental, sem mobilidade social, onde preponderavam as leis suntuárias, que objetivavam, dentre outras coisas, o controle ao vestuário. Dessa forma, a roupa significava uma condição, uma qualidade, um instrumento de regulação política, social e econômica, onde cada um ocupava seu lugar, usando as vestes próprias à sua posição. Na passagem para a modernidade e para a concepção individualista de mundo, pensamentos, conceitos e valores foram atravessados por novas perspectivas que foram construídas ao longo de muitos séculos, a partir de acontecimentos não só marcantes, mas estruturantes de um novo período, alterando drasticamente a relação da sociedade ocidental com a roupa. Portanto, parte-se da premissa de que a moda não é fruto de uma historiografia linear e evolucionista, mas sim de uma confluência de fatores que possibilitam seu desenvolvimento e funcionamento como a entendemos atualmente. Nesse sentido, a reflexão da tese é transportada para a particularidade do caso brasileiro, mais precisamente para a cidade do Rio de Janeiro, a partir da chegada da Corte portuguesa, em 1808, percebendo como a presença da Família Real instaurou bases e estruturas próprias de uma mentalidade hierárquica e estamental, aumentando tensões que marcaram o período, tendo a indumentária papel protagonista na batalha pelos signos sociais prestigiosos e seus modos de uso. Ao longo das décadas seguintes, os acontecimentos que ocorreram na cidade deixavam em evidência o desabrochar de características típicas da modernidade, que se desenvolvia a passos largos, deixando para trás o engessamento social através da indumentária estabelecido previamente com a Corte e consolidando o sistema da moda no Rio de Janeiro. / [en] This thesis examines how the changes that have occurred in modern Western society have changed the relationship between people and dress, building the basis for the development of a phenomenon known as fashion. In periods prior to modernity, especially in the Middle Ages and the Ancien Régime, we verified the existence of clothing as a social marking, prevailing the holistic conception of the world. In these periods, there was a hierarchical order, without social mobility, where the Sumptuary Laws prevailed, which aimed, among other things, control of clothing. Thus, clothing meant a condition, a quality, an instrument of political, social and economic regulation. Each person occupied a social place, wearing clothes according to his/her position. In the passage to modernity and to the individualistic conception of the world, thoughts, concepts and values were crossed by new perspectives that have been built over many centuries, from events not only remarkable, but structuring of a new period, drastically altering the relationship of Western society with clothing. Therefore, it starts from the premise that fashion is not the result of a linear and evolutionary historiography, but rather of a confluence of factors that enable its development and functioning as we currently understand it. In this sense, the reflection of the thesis is transported to the particularity of the Brazilian case, more precisely to the city of Rio de Janeiro, from the arrival of the Portuguese Court in 1808, realizing how the presence of the Royal Family established bases and structures own of a hierarchical mentality, increasing tensions that marked the period, where the clothes were the protagonist in the battle for prestigious social signs and their ways of use. Over the next decades, the events that occurred in the city highlighted the blossoming of characteristics typical of modernity, which developed in strides, leaving behind social plastering through clothing established previously with the Court and consolidating the fashion system in Rio de Janeiro.

Cette étude analyse la place et le rôle du mode de vie dans les discours et les pratiques politiques à Rome à la fin du IIIe siècle av. J.-C. et au IIe siècle av. J.-C. qui formaient un moment charnière. Le luxe faisait partie des pratiques de distinction de l’aristocratie à la fin du IVe siècle av. J. C. et au IIIe siècle av. J. C. À partir de la deuxième guerre punique, l’élite commença à s’inquiéter du rôle politique du faste et des menaces qu’il faisait peser sur le système oligarchique ; elle fit ensuite voter des lois régulant les festins pour éviter que ceux-ci ne servissent à gagner du crédit politique, mais sans évoquer franchement cette raison, par déférence pour le pouvoir et par souci de préserver sa légitimité. Le combat contre le luxe investit les discours, influant sur l’image que l’élite donnait d’elle-même. Les adversaires du luxe, comme Caton l’Ancien, mirent en avant une nouvelle qualité, la frugalité, correspondant à l’adoption d’un train de vie inférieur à ce que son rang permettait. Une représentation négative se structura autour du luxe, explicitement et définitivement associé aux vices, aux étrangers, en particulier aux Grecs, et implicitement considéré comme caractéristique des hommes inaptes à servir leur patrie ou aspirant à un pouvoir excessif. Une représentation antithétique se développa autour de la frugalité, qualité des vrais Romains fidèles aux mœurs de la campagne et soucieux des intérêts de la République, une image qui fut particulièrement appréciée par le peuple. Ces arguments connurent un immense succès dans les luttes politiques du dernier tiers du IIe siècle av. J. C. La frugalité était cependant difficilement applicable en toutes circonstances car elle heurtait les normes de l’élite : il importait de signifier à travers elle une position politique, mais il fallait aussi savoir recevoir convenablement ses amis. Le stoïcisme, qui se développait alors à Rome et qui prescrivait une vie tempérante, dut s’adapter à cette exigence. / This study analyses the place and role of the way of life in political speeches and practices in Rome in the late third century BC and in the second century BC, which formed a turning point. Luxury was a means of social distinction for the aristocracy in the late fourth century BC and third century BC. From the Second Punic War onwards, the elite began to worry about the political impact of this sumptuousness and the threats it posed for the oligarchic system. Consequently, the elite introduced laws regulating banquets in order to prevent hosts from gaining political prestige, without clearly citing this reason, out of deference for the government and in order to protect its own legitimacy. This fight against luxury spread in speeches and influenced the image of itself which the elite wanted to promote. The detractors of luxury, like Cato the Elder, proposed a new ideal – frugality, which implied adopting a lifestyle more humble than that which was allowed by one’s actual rank. A negative definition of luxury was proposed – it was explicitly and definitively associated with vice, foreigners (Greeks especially), and implicitly considered to be typical of men who were unable to serve their homeland or who aspired to excessive power. An antithetic representation of frugality was developed and was thought to be the quality of real Romans who were true to the values of the countryside and anxious to preserve the interests of the Republic. This image was highly valued by the people. These ideas played a significant role in the power struggles in the last third of the second century BC. Frugality remained nonetheless a difficult quality to adopt in all circumstances because it went against the standards of the elite – while it mattered for the elite to make their political position clear through frugality, it was also important to cater to one’s guests as befitted one’s rank. Stoicism, which was then developing in Rome and advocated a restrained way of life, had to adapt to this demand.