"What were the backgrounds of the people who enrolled in clothing construction classes in the adult home economics program in Pinellas County, Florida, in 1974-75? In more detail, what was their marital status? What were their age ranges? How many children under 18 did they have living at home? What was their employment status? What were their educational and economic levels? Were they United States citizens? How long had they lived in the State of Florida and in Pinellas County? Were they year-round residents? How did they learn about the clothing construction class?"--Introduction. / Typescript. / "August, 1975." / "Submitted to the Department of Home Economics Education in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science." / Advisor: Mary Lee Hurt, Professor Directing Paper. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 31-32).

Acknowledging the goal of reduced aircraft weight, there is a need to improve on conservative design techniques used in industry. Minimisation of laminate in-plane elastic energy is used as an appropriate in-plane performance marker to assess the weight saving potential of new design techniques. MATLAB optimisations using a genetic algorithm were used to find the optimal laminate variables for minimum in-plane elastic energy and/or damage tolerance for all possible loadings. The use of non-standard angles was able to offer equivalent, if not better in-plane performance than standard angles, and are shown to be useful to improve the ease of manufacture. Any standard angle laminate stiffness was shown to be able to be matched by a range of two non-standard angle ply designs. This non-uniqueness of designs was explored. Balancing of plus and minus plies about the principal loading axes instead of themanufacturing axes was shown to offer considerable potential for weight saving as the stiffness is better aligned to the load. Designing directly for an uncertain design load showed little benefit over the 10% ply percentage rule in maintaining in-plane performance. This showed the current rule may do a sufficient job to allow robustness in laminate performance. This technique is seen useful for non-standard angle design that lacks an equivalent 10% rule. Current use of conservative damage tolerance strain limits for design has revealed the need for more accurate prediction of damage propagation. Damage tolerance modelling was carried out using fracture mechanics for a multi-axial loading considering the full 2D strain energy and improving on current uni-axial models. The non-conservativeness of the model was evidenced to be from assumptions of zero post-buckled stiffness. Preliminary work on conservative multi-axial damage tolerance design, independent of thickness, is yet to be confirmed by experiments.

<p>Purpose and research questions</p><p>The purpose of this thesis is to investigate influencing factors on the choice of tailoring of ERP systems during implementation. The research questions to answer are what types of adjustments can be made to the system to make it fit with the organisation, together with what factors influence the choice of these adjustments and how?</p><p>Research methodology</p><p>To fulfil the purpose and answer the research questions the study has been carried out in line with the hermeneutic circle. This has been done in three sequences. A pre-understanding of the phenomenon has been obtained by a literature study in the first sequence. In the second sequence interviews with IFS AB and Systeam AB have been carried out, analysed together with the pre-understanding and a model has been created. During the last sequence Sogeti Sverige AB has been interviewed to verify the model.</p><p>Research findings</p><p>The different ways of tailoring an ERP system are configuration, bolt-ons, extended report-ing, screen masks, workflow programming, user exits, ERP programming, interface development, new software package and package code modification. Tailoring types 1-8 and 10 were found in the literature while new software package was found in the empirical study.</p><p>The factors influencing the choice of tailoring are coming from three domains: the customer, the consultant and the system. The factors from the customer are attitude towards customisation, costs, knowledge, process design, time and user needs. Attitude towards customisation, customisation possibility and knowledge are coming from the consultant domain. Complexity, external software, functionality and maintenance are finally coming from the system domain. All factors were derived from the literature except knowledge in the customer domain, which was found during the empirical study.</p><p>Some factors influence the choice of specific tailoring types, while others influence the choice between light and heavy tailoring types. There are also factors that do not directly influence the choice of tailoring. Instead they act as prerequisites for the tailoring types. This leads to the conclusion that the influencing factors can not be seen in isolation; it is the combined influence from all of them that decides the choice of tailoring types.</p> / <p>Syfte och forskningsfrågor</p><p>Syftet med den här uppsatsen är att undersöka influerande faktorer på valet av anpassning av ERP-system under implementering. Forskningsfrågorna att besvara är vilken typ av anpassningar som kan göras av systemet för att det ska passa med organisationen, tillsam-mans med vilka faktorer som influerar valet av dessa anpassningar och hur?</p><p>Metod</p><p>För att uppfylla syftet och besvara forskningsfrågorna har studien utförts i linje med den hermeneutiska cirkeln. Detta har gjorts i tre sekvenser. En förförståelse har erhållits genom en litteraturstudie i den första sekvensen. I den andra sekvensen har intervjuer med IFS AB och Systeam AB genomförts, analyserats tillsammans med förförståelsen och en modell har skapats. Under den sista sekvensen har Sogeti Sverige AB intervjuats för att verifiera modellen.</p><p>Forskningsresultat</p><p>De olika sätten att anpassa ett ERP-system är configuration, bolt-ons, extended reporting, screen masks, workflow programming, user exits, ERP programming, interface develop-ment, new software package och package code modification. Anpassningstyperna 1-8 och 10 påträffades i litteraturen medan new software package hittades i den empiriska studien.</p><p>Faktorerna som influerar valet av anpassning kommer från tre domäner: kunden, konsulten och systemet. Faktorerna från kunden är attitude towards customisation, costs, knowledge, process design, time och user needs. Attitude towards customisation, customisation possi-bility och knowledge kommer från konsultdomänen. Complexity, external software, functionality och maintenance kommer slutligen från systemdomänen. Alla faktorer är härledda från litteraturen, förutom knowledge från kunskapsdomänen kund som påträffades under empiristudien.</p><p>Några faktorer influerar valet av specifika anpassningstyper, medan andra influerar valet mellan lätta och tunga anpassningstyper. Det finns också faktorer som inte direkt influerar valet av anpassning. De är istället förutsättningar för anpassningstyperna. Detta leder till slutsatsen att anpassningstyperna inte kan ses isolerade; det är den kombinerade influensen från alla faktorer som bestämmer vilka anpassningstyper som kommer att väljas.</p>

Since the establishment of the first European fashion houses in the nineteenth century the male wardrobe has been continually appropriated by the fashion industry to the extent that every masculine garment has made its appearance in the female wardrobe. For the womenswear designer, menswear’s generic shapes are easily refitted and restyled to suit the prevailing fashionable silhouette. This, combined with a wealth of design detail and historical references, provides the cyclical female fashion system with an endless supply of “regular novelty” (Barthes, 2006, p.68). Yet, despite the wealth of inspiration and technique across both male and female clothing, the bias has largely been against menswear, with limited reciprocal benefit. Through an exploration of these concepts I propose to answer the question; how can I use womenswear patternmaking and construction technique to implement change in menswear design?

Submitted by Renata Lopes (renatasil82@gmail.com) on 2017-11-01T18:22:28Z No. of bitstreams: 1 leticiasilvabatista.pdf: 3595138 bytes, checksum: c9305bda02c2d0d8eb3b0eeae7ae0e86 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2017-11-09T14:14:18Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 leticiasilvabatista.pdf: 3595138 bytes, checksum: c9305bda02c2d0d8eb3b0eeae7ae0e86 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-11-09T14:14:18Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 leticiasilvabatista.pdf: 3595138 bytes, checksum: c9305bda02c2d0d8eb3b0eeae7ae0e86 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-08-30 / No segundo quartel do século XVIII, a Câmara de Mariana convocava, semestralmente, oficiais mecânicos para tirarem as suas licenças mercantis e, por conseguinte, regularizarem o exercício das suas especialidades manuais pelo vasto Termo de Mariana. Entre os anos de 1735 e 1750, a alfaiataria e os alfaiates foram o ofício e os oficiais mecânicos que mais pleitearam esse tipo de permissão frente ao senado camarário de Mariana. Notoriedade tal que motivou o presente estudo dissertativo intitulado Usando desse ofício de alfaiate: A alfaiataria e os alfaiates do Termo de Mariana (1735 – 1750). A sistematização e a análise dessa fonte permitiram a elaboração de uma lista nominativa de 323 alfaiates que buscaram, entre os anos de 1735 e 1750, uma ou mais licenças mercantis para exercerem, em limitadas paragens do Termo de Mariana, o labor especializado da alfaiataria. Diante disso, o intuito foi compreender o universo laboral dessa especialidade mecânica e dos seus agentes em restrito tempo e espaço a partir dessa fonte de origem camarária. Em suma, foram sujeitos históricos qualificados no ofício das roupas que atuaram numa conjuntura socioeconômica multifacetada e vivaz, na qual vestiram as necessidades ordinárias e luxuosas de uma sociedade das distinções e das aparências. / For each semester in the second quarter of Eighteenth century, the City Council of Mariana had been summoning craftsmen to get their mercantile licenses, regulating their manual specialties due the extensive Termo de Mariana. Between the years of 1735 and 1750, the tailoring and tailors were the most license pleading craft and artisans in the City Council of Mariana. Such notoriety has motivated the present dissertation entitled Using the tailor’s craft: The tailoring and the tailors of the Termo de Mariana (1735 – 1750). The systematization and analysis of this source have allowed the elaboration of a nominative list containing 323 tailors who requested one or more mercantile licenses between the years of 1735 and 1750 in order to exercise craft specialized in tailoring at some places of the Termo de Mariana. Based on that, the present dissertation seeks to comprehend the labor universe of this mechanical specialty and its agents in a restrict time-space analysis by taking data from City Council documents. Altogether, the tailors were historical subjects qualified in crafting clothes, acting upon a vivacious and multifaceted socioeconomic conjecture, in which they wore the ordinary and luxurious necessities of a society of distinctions and appearances.

Purpose and research questions The purpose of this thesis is to investigate influencing factors on the choice of tailoring of ERP systems during implementation. The research questions to answer are what types of adjustments can be made to the system to make it fit with the organisation, together with what factors influence the choice of these adjustments and how? Research methodology To fulfil the purpose and answer the research questions the study has been carried out in line with the hermeneutic circle. This has been done in three sequences. A pre-understanding of the phenomenon has been obtained by a literature study in the first sequence. In the second sequence interviews with IFS AB and Systeam AB have been carried out, analysed together with the pre-understanding and a model has been created. During the last sequence Sogeti Sverige AB has been interviewed to verify the model. Research findings The different ways of tailoring an ERP system are configuration, bolt-ons, extended report-ing, screen masks, workflow programming, user exits, ERP programming, interface development, new software package and package code modification. Tailoring types 1-8 and 10 were found in the literature while new software package was found in the empirical study. The factors influencing the choice of tailoring are coming from three domains: the customer, the consultant and the system. The factors from the customer are attitude towards customisation, costs, knowledge, process design, time and user needs. Attitude towards customisation, customisation possibility and knowledge are coming from the consultant domain. Complexity, external software, functionality and maintenance are finally coming from the system domain. All factors were derived from the literature except knowledge in the customer domain, which was found during the empirical study. Some factors influence the choice of specific tailoring types, while others influence the choice between light and heavy tailoring types. There are also factors that do not directly influence the choice of tailoring. Instead they act as prerequisites for the tailoring types. This leads to the conclusion that the influencing factors can not be seen in isolation; it is the combined influence from all of them that decides the choice of tailoring types. / Syfte och forskningsfrågor Syftet med den här uppsatsen är att undersöka influerande faktorer på valet av anpassning av ERP-system under implementering. Forskningsfrågorna att besvara är vilken typ av anpassningar som kan göras av systemet för att det ska passa med organisationen, tillsam-mans med vilka faktorer som influerar valet av dessa anpassningar och hur? Metod För att uppfylla syftet och besvara forskningsfrågorna har studien utförts i linje med den hermeneutiska cirkeln. Detta har gjorts i tre sekvenser. En förförståelse har erhållits genom en litteraturstudie i den första sekvensen. I den andra sekvensen har intervjuer med IFS AB och Systeam AB genomförts, analyserats tillsammans med förförståelsen och en modell har skapats. Under den sista sekvensen har Sogeti Sverige AB intervjuats för att verifiera modellen. Forskningsresultat De olika sätten att anpassa ett ERP-system är configuration, bolt-ons, extended reporting, screen masks, workflow programming, user exits, ERP programming, interface develop-ment, new software package och package code modification. Anpassningstyperna 1-8 och 10 påträffades i litteraturen medan new software package hittades i den empiriska studien. Faktorerna som influerar valet av anpassning kommer från tre domäner: kunden, konsulten och systemet. Faktorerna från kunden är attitude towards customisation, costs, knowledge, process design, time och user needs. Attitude towards customisation, customisation possi-bility och knowledge kommer från konsultdomänen. Complexity, external software, functionality och maintenance kommer slutligen från systemdomänen. Alla faktorer är härledda från litteraturen, förutom knowledge från kunskapsdomänen kund som påträffades under empiristudien. Några faktorer influerar valet av specifika anpassningstyper, medan andra influerar valet mellan lätta och tunga anpassningstyper. Det finns också faktorer som inte direkt influerar valet av anpassning. De är istället förutsättningar för anpassningstyperna. Detta leder till slutsatsen att anpassningstyperna inte kan ses isolerade; det är den kombinerade influensen från alla faktorer som bestämmer vilka anpassningstyper som kommer att väljas.

"This study was conceived, developed and carried out in order to: (1) determine whether or not there was any difference in reasons given for enrolling in adult clothing construction classes by participants who were enrolled in first semester classes and those who were enrolled in second semester classes; (2) identify reasons why women in Pinellas County enrolled in adult clothing construction classes; and (3) relate the reasons for enrolling in adult clothing construction classes to (a) marital status, (b) age of participant, (c) educational level, and (d) annual family income to participation in adult clothing construction classes"--Introduction. / Typescript. / "August, 1975." / "Submitted to the Department of Home Economics Education in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science." / Advisor: Mary Lee Hurt, Professor Directing Paper. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 48-49).

The actinobacteria Actinomadura hibisca synthesizes the natural products pradimicin A-C through a type II polyketide biosynthetic pathway. Eight tailoring enzymes in pradimicin biosynthesis have been investigated in this work, including PdmJ, PdmW, PdmN, PdmT, PdmO, PdmS, PdmQ and PdmF. PdmJ and PdmW were characterized as cytochrome P450 hydroxylases that catalyze the incorporation of two hydroxyl groups at C-5 and C-6, respectively. These enzymes worked synergistically and their co-expression significantly improved the efficiency of the hydroxylation steps. PdmN is an amino acid ligase that accepts a variety of substrates and ligates a D-alanine moiety to C-16 to form the corresponding derivatives. PdmS and PdmQ were functionally identified as Oglycosyltransferases. Disruption of pdmS in the genome of A. hibisca generated a biosynthetic precursor without sugar moieties, which validated that PdmS is the first glycosyltransferase that attaches the first sugar to the 5-OH of pradimicins. In contrast, disruption of pdmQ led to the synthesis of pradimicin B, confirming that PdmQ was responsible for attaching the D-xylose moiety to the 3'-OH of the first sugar portion in pradimicins. Naturally, the first sugar moiety 4',6'-dideoxy-4'-amino-D-galactose of pradimicin A and B is methylated at 2'-NH. When the expression of PdmO was compromised, the mutant strain produced mainly pradimicin C, which contains the 4',6'- dideoxy-4'-amino-D-galactose in its structure. This suggested that PdmO was responsible for the N-methylation of the amino sugar. PdmF was identified as the C-11 Omethyltransferase. Moreover, PdmT was confirmed to be an O-methyltransferase through gene disruption and in vitro biochemical reactions. PdmT methylates the 7-OH to form a methoxy group that in a later step is removed to generate the pradimicin aglycon. In summary, this research has identified eight important pradimicin biosynthetic enzymes that are involved in various tailoring steps in pradimicin biosynthesis. Several new pradimicin analogues has been generated by manipulating these enzymes. Their enzymatic properties and collaborative actions were investigated. These results not only provide new insights into type II polyketide biosynthetic pathways, but also enable rational engineering of the pradimicin biosynthetic pathway to create new analogues for drug development.

No description available.

This dissertation examines classroom conversations involving refugee and immigrant youth in a second language (L2) introduction program, exploring how L2 Swedish emerges as a multiparty accomplishment by both the teacher and the students. Drawing on forty hours of video-recorded Swedish L2 classroom conversations, as well as on observations and informal interviews, it focuses on talk as a form of social action. Theoretically and methodologically, the dissertation primarily combines insights from language socialization and social constructionist frameworks and detailed transcriptions informed by conversation analysis. Study I documents how schooled Swedish as a second language (SSL) student identities emerged as performative effects of how the students in school activities were addressed as “ethnic” students, and how they managed to handle, adopt, and contest being positioned as the Other. Study II records classroom performances and the formation of a community of practice. The analyses cover how students’ verbal improvisations (repetitions, stylizations, and laughter) and alignments to local registers authenticate SSL identities. The findings show how stylizations were important resources for metalinguistic reflections on correctness, and for the establishment of a local language ideology. Study III documents the interactional nature of classroom repair work. Detailed analyses of correction sequences and trajectories show that both the teacher and the students produced ambiguous other-corrections, illuminating the intricate multiparty work in correction trajectories. In brief, this dissertation illuminates multiparty aspects of classroom L2 socialization. The analyses of classroom talk show how both teacher and student investments in language competencies and local ideologies of correct Swedish or style, as well as participation and identity work, are co-constructed through participants’ tailoring of talk. / <p>At the time of the doctoral defense, the following papers were unpublished and had a status as follows: Paper 1: Manuscript. Paper 3: Accepted.</p>