This project explores the combination of a woven structure consisting of different fibers with dyeing to create a multidimensional woven textile capable of altering in expression. This project aims to show how a designer can work with fibre-specific dyeing and multiple fibers in a woven textile and the many possibilities this lends in a design process. With a sustainable approach to the matter used in the project, creating more with less, a suggestion is made of an alternative method of creating multidimensional fabrics. The chemical reaction between pigment and fiber is explored to show a greater appreciation for the textile material and to create fabrics capable of multiple expressions. One woven fabric, in individual pieces, is dyed in reactive-, acid- and disperse-dye. The cellulose-, wool- and synthetic yarns in the fabric absorb their intended pigment but also show how they react to another category of dye. A series of dyed samples, all originating from the same woven material with an abstract pattern, show the varied expression the treatment can achieve. The fabric and method presented in the project show an example of how one can compose a series of textiles with less matter but with more expression.

Forensic fiber evidence plays an important role in many criminal investigations. Nondestructive techniques that preserve the physical integrity of the fibers for further court examination are highly valuable in forensic science. Non-destructive techniques that can either discriminate between similar fibers or match a known to a questioned fiber - and still preserve the physical integrity of the fibers for further court examination - are highly valuable in forensic science. When fibers cannot be discriminated by non-destructive tests, the next reasonable step is to extract the questioned and known fibers for dye analysis with a more selective technique such as high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and/or gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The common denominator among chromatographic techniques is to primarily focus on the dyes used to color the fibers and do not investigate other potential discriminating components present on the fiber. Differentiating among commercial dyes with very similar chromatographic behaviors and almost identical absorption spectra and/or fragmentation patterns is a challenging task. This dissertation explores a different aspect of fiber analysis as it focuses on the total fluorescence emission of fibers. In addition to the contribution of the textile dye (or dyes) to the fluorescence spectrum of the fiber, we investigate the contribution of intrinsic fluorescence impurities – i.e. impurities imbedded into the fibers during fabrication of garments - as a reproducible source of fiber comparison. Differentiation of visually indistinguishable fibers is achieved by comparing excitation-emission matrices (EEMs) recorded from single textile fibers with the aid of a commercial spectrofluorimeter coupled to an epi-fluorescence microscope. Statistical data comparison was carried out via principal component analysis. An application of iv this statistical approach is demonstrated using challenging dyes with similarities both in twodimensional absorbance spectra and in three dimensional EEM data. High accuracy of fiber identification was observed in all the cases and no false positive identifications were observed at 99% confidence levels.

Baseando-se na possibilidade de inserção de um novo material de origem têxtil natural animal, bem como, a reciclagem de aproximadamente 1,175 milhões de toneladas descartadas anualmente da matéria-prima estudada (UBABEF, 2011), esta pesquisa teve como objetivo geral efetuar a caracterização física e microscópica de fibra de pena de frango para finalidade têxtil seja para o desenvolvimento de fios têxteis, não tecidos e reforço em compósitos ou outras aplicações. Deste modo, foram objetivos: i) realizar levantamento bibliográfico sobre estrutura e composição de penas e fibras de penas, reciclagem, aplicações existentes, técnicas e processos de caracterização da fibra; ii) coleta do material fibroso proveniente de um matadouro doméstico de frangos; iii) preparação do material, lavagem e secagem das penas; iv) testes mecânicos de caracterização como: alongamento, elasticidade e resistência realizados por meio do dinamômetro Instrom, determinação do teor de regain, umidade e densidade da fibra, bem como a taxa de encolhimento da fibra; v) testes microscópicos de caracterização como: microscopias longitudinais e transversais; vi) propostas e direcionamento do emprego das fibras caracterizadas para finalidade de produção têxtil. As principais conclusões foram: i) bibliografia inédita em português sobre penas de frango para a área têxtil; ii) estudo inédito no Brasil e na língua portuguesa de propriedades físicas e microscópicas de fibras de pena de frango; iii) com base em suas propriedades estruturais, perceberam-se características como brilho, conforto, maciez, toque, permeabilidade à líquido, leveza, entre outras propriedades, aumentando assim seu potencial de empregabilidade têxtil; iv) potencial de fiação e fabricação de têxteis para diversas aplicações. Publicações e palestras foram realizadas com os resultados desta dissertação. / Based on the possibility of developing a new textile material of natural animal origin, as well as the recycling of the studied raw material, of which approximately 1.175 million tons are annually discarded as waste in Brazil (UBABEF, 2011), this study aimed to characterize the general physical and microscopical fibers of chicken feathers for textile purpose for the development of textile yarn, non-woven and composite reinforcement. Its objectives were: i) to analyze the academic literature about the structure and composition of feathers and feather fibers, as well as its recycling, existing applications, processes and techniques of fiber characterization, ii) the collection of fibrous material from a chicken slaughterhouse, iii) the preparation of material, washing and drying the feathers, iv) to develop mechanical characterization tests such as elongation, elasticity and resistance made by Instrom dynamometer, determining the content, moisture regain and fiber density, v) to perform the microscopic characterization tests such as microscopy longitudinal and transverse, and vi ) to draft proposals on the employment of the analyzed and characterized fibers for purposes of producing textiles (yarns, reinforcement for composites, nonwoven blankets, etc.). The main findings were: i) unpublished literature in Portuguese about chicken feathers for the textile area, ii) unpublished study in Brazil and in portuguese language of physical and microscopic properties of chicken feathers\' fibers for the development of textile products of natural origin from such chicken feathers, iii) the identification of the potential for the production of blended yarn with cotton / wool, blankets and non-woven and reinforcement for composites, based on their physical, mechanical and microscopic properties, and, iv) the identification of the potential for yarn production (via spinning) and textile manufacturing for various applications. Publications and lectures were held with the results of this dissertation.

Baseando-se na possibilidade de inserção de um novo material de origem têxtil natural animal, bem como, a reciclagem de aproximadamente 1,175 milhões de toneladas descartadas anualmente da matéria-prima estudada (UBABEF, 2011), esta pesquisa teve como objetivo geral efetuar a caracterização física e microscópica de fibra de pena de frango para finalidade têxtil seja para o desenvolvimento de fios têxteis, não tecidos e reforço em compósitos ou outras aplicações. Deste modo, foram objetivos: i) realizar levantamento bibliográfico sobre estrutura e composição de penas e fibras de penas, reciclagem, aplicações existentes, técnicas e processos de caracterização da fibra; ii) coleta do material fibroso proveniente de um matadouro doméstico de frangos; iii) preparação do material, lavagem e secagem das penas; iv) testes mecânicos de caracterização como: alongamento, elasticidade e resistência realizados por meio do dinamômetro Instrom, determinação do teor de regain, umidade e densidade da fibra, bem como a taxa de encolhimento da fibra; v) testes microscópicos de caracterização como: microscopias longitudinais e transversais; vi) propostas e direcionamento do emprego das fibras caracterizadas para finalidade de produção têxtil. As principais conclusões foram: i) bibliografia inédita em português sobre penas de frango para a área têxtil; ii) estudo inédito no Brasil e na língua portuguesa de propriedades físicas e microscópicas de fibras de pena de frango; iii) com base em suas propriedades estruturais, perceberam-se características como brilho, conforto, maciez, toque, permeabilidade à líquido, leveza, entre outras propriedades, aumentando assim seu potencial de empregabilidade têxtil; iv) potencial de fiação e fabricação de têxteis para diversas aplicações. Publicações e palestras foram realizadas com os resultados desta dissertação. / Based on the possibility of developing a new textile material of natural animal origin, as well as the recycling of the studied raw material, of which approximately 1.175 million tons are annually discarded as waste in Brazil (UBABEF, 2011), this study aimed to characterize the general physical and microscopical fibers of chicken feathers for textile purpose for the development of textile yarn, non-woven and composite reinforcement. Its objectives were: i) to analyze the academic literature about the structure and composition of feathers and feather fibers, as well as its recycling, existing applications, processes and techniques of fiber characterization, ii) the collection of fibrous material from a chicken slaughterhouse, iii) the preparation of material, washing and drying the feathers, iv) to develop mechanical characterization tests such as elongation, elasticity and resistance made by Instrom dynamometer, determining the content, moisture regain and fiber density, v) to perform the microscopic characterization tests such as microscopy longitudinal and transverse, and vi ) to draft proposals on the employment of the analyzed and characterized fibers for purposes of producing textiles (yarns, reinforcement for composites, nonwoven blankets, etc.). The main findings were: i) unpublished literature in Portuguese about chicken feathers for the textile area, ii) unpublished study in Brazil and in portuguese language of physical and microscopic properties of chicken feathers\' fibers for the development of textile products of natural origin from such chicken feathers, iii) the identification of the potential for the production of blended yarn with cotton / wool, blankets and non-woven and reinforcement for composites, based on their physical, mechanical and microscopic properties, and, iv) the identification of the potential for yarn production (via spinning) and textile manufacturing for various applications. Publications and lectures were held with the results of this dissertation.

A presente pesquisa consiste em analisar a solidez da cor dos substratos têxteis à lavagem, perante a utilização de detergentes em pó comerciais, e comparar com a utilização do detergente pó padrão previsto na norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte C06: Solidez da cor à lavagem doméstica e comercial. Para que as variáveis do substrato têxtil: a) composição; b) preparação para o tingimento; c) processo de tingimento; d) intensidade da cor; e) classe de corante. E as do processo de lavagem: temperaturas não comprometessem a conclusão da pesquisa, contemplou-se o controle de todas elas, de forma que, a única variável foi o tipo de detergente em pó utilizado, para tanto, levou-se em consideração: a) utilizado substratos 100% algodão, 100% poliéster, 100% poliamida e 100% acrílico; b) preparação para garantir a homogeneidade das amostras; c) substratos tintos em cores claras, médias e escuras; d) utilizadas classes de corantes que possuem boa solidez à lavagem; e) lavagem a 40ºC e a 60ºC. Foi utilizado um ambiente integrado contemplando equipamentos de laboratório para preparação, tingimento das amostras e para os ensaios de solidez da cor à lavagem, segundo a norma técnica específica. Os corpos de prova, após o processo de lavagem, foram submetidos à avaliação da alteração da cor, de acordo com a norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte A05: Avaliação instrumental da alteração da cor para classificação na escala cinza. Os resultados dos ensaios apontaram que somente os substratos 100% algodão e 100% poliamida, cor clara, lavados com detergentes comerciais apresentam resultados divergentes dos lavados com detergente padrão. Já os demais substratos não apresentaram alterações significativas quando comparados aos resultados obtidos na lavagem com o detergente padrão, o que aponta que o tipo de detergente utilizado no ensaio não influencia no resultado / The present research consists in analyzing the fastness of colors in textile substrates to washing, in relation to the use of commercial powder detergents, and compare it with the use of the standard detergent powder according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Textiles - color fastness of C06: Color fastness to domestic and commercial washing. So that the variables of the textile substrate: a) composition; b) preparation for dyeing; c) dyeing process; d) color intensity; e) dye class. And the of washing process: temperature, did not compromise the conclusion of the research, it was contemplated the control of them all, so that the only variable was the type of detergent powder used, for that, it was taken into consideration: a) used 100% cotton, 100% polyester, 100% polyamide and 100% acrylic substrates, because they are the most consumed fibers in Brazil; b) preparation to guarantee the homogeneity of the samples; c) red substrates in light, medium and dark colors; d) classes of dyes, which have good wash fastness, were used; e) washing at 40 ° C and at 60 ° C. An integrated environment was used, contemplating laboratory equipment for preparation, dyeing of the samples and the tests of color fastness to the wash, according to the specific technical standard. After the washing process, the specimens were submitted to the color change evaluation according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Textiles - Color fastness tests part A05: Instrumental evaluation of the color changing for Classification on the gray scale. The results of the tests indicated that only the 100% cotton and 100% polyamide substrates light colored washed with commercial detergents showed divergent results from the standard detergent washings. However, on the other substrates, did not present significant alterations when compared to the substrates obtained in washing with standard detergent, which indicates that the type of Detergent used in the test does not influence the result

A presente pesquisa consiste em analisar a solidez da cor dos substratos têxteis à lavagem, perante a utilização de detergentes em pó comerciais, e comparar com a utilização do detergente pó padrão previsto na norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte C06: Solidez da cor à lavagem doméstica e comercial. Para que as variáveis do substrato têxtil: a) composição; b) preparação para o tingimento; c) processo de tingimento; d) intensidade da cor; e) classe de corante. E as do processo de lavagem: temperaturas não comprometessem a conclusão da pesquisa, contemplou-se o controle de todas elas, de forma que, a única variável foi o tipo de detergente em pó utilizado, para tanto, levou-se em consideração: a) utilizado substratos 100% algodão, 100% poliéster, 100% poliamida e 100% acrílico; b) preparação para garantir a homogeneidade das amostras; c) substratos tintos em cores claras, médias e escuras; d) utilizadas classes de corantes que possuem boa solidez à lavagem; e) lavagem a 40ºC e a 60ºC. Foi utilizado um ambiente integrado contemplando equipamentos de laboratório para preparação, tingimento das amostras e para os ensaios de solidez da cor à lavagem, segundo a norma técnica específica. Os corpos de prova, após o processo de lavagem, foram submetidos à avaliação da alteração da cor, de acordo com a norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte A05: Avaliação instrumental da alteração da cor para classificação na escala cinza. Os resultados dos ensaios apontaram que somente os substratos 100% algodão e 100% poliamida, cor clara, lavados com detergentes comerciais apresentam resultados divergentes dos lavados com detergente padrão. Já os demais substratos não apresentaram alterações significativas quando comparados aos resultados obtidos na lavagem com o detergente padrão, o que aponta que o tipo de detergente utilizado no ensaio não influencia no resultado / The present research consists in analyzing the fastness of colors in textile substrates to washing, in relation to the use of commercial powder detergents, and compare it with the use of the standard detergent powder according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Textiles - color fastness of C06: Color fastness to domestic and commercial washing. So that the variables of the textile substrate: a) composition; b) preparation for dyeing; c) dyeing process; d) color intensity; e) dye class. And the of washing process: temperature, did not compromise the conclusion of the research, it was contemplated the control of them all, so that the only variable was the type of detergent powder used, for that, it was taken into consideration: a) used 100% cotton, 100% polyester, 100% polyamide and 100% acrylic substrates, because they are the most consumed fibers in Brazil; b) preparation to guarantee the homogeneity of the samples; c) red substrates in light, medium and dark colors; d) classes of dyes, which have good wash fastness, were used; e) washing at 40 ° C and at 60 ° C. An integrated environment was used, contemplating laboratory equipment for preparation, dyeing of the samples and the tests of color fastness to the wash, according to the specific technical standard. After the washing process, the specimens were submitted to the color change evaluation according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Textiles - Color fastness tests part A05: Instrumental evaluation of the color changing for Classification on the gray scale. The results of the tests indicated that only the 100% cotton and 100% polyamide substrates light colored washed with commercial detergents showed divergent results from the standard detergent washings. However, on the other substrates, did not present significant alterations when compared to the substrates obtained in washing with standard detergent, which indicates that the type of Detergent used in the test does not influence the result

No description available.

Den globala efterfrågan på textila produkter ökar ständigt, samtidigt som branschen står inför stora utmaningar gällande dess höga klimat- och miljöpåverkan. Omkring 65 miljoner ton syntetiskt material framställs årligen, där polyester står för 82% och dominerar marknaden. Polyester (PET) tillverkas från fossila råvaror, det vill säga icke-förnybara källor, vilket bidrar till en ökad andel CO2 i atmosfären, vilket i sin tur leder till en förhöjd medeltemperatur. För att lyckas minska koldioxidavtrycket med 30% fram till år 2030 behövs flera åtgärder genomföras. Bioplaster kan komma att bidra till en mer hållbar livscykel, då de jungfruliga polymererna tillverkas av förnyelsebara eller återvunna råvaror. Denna rapport söker svar på effekten av att ersätta konventionell polyester med biobaserade polymera material i textila produkter. Studien ger en inblick i fibervalets klimatpåverkan under framställning, användarfasen och hantering vid end-of-life som en del av vägen mot en cirkulär ekonomi. Arbetet utgår ifrån en produkt tilldelad från uppdragsgivaren BRAV Norway, Lundhags. Med hjälp av en litteraturstudie och Higg MSI, som mäter klimatpåverkan cradle-to-gate, utvärderas och jämförs återvunnen polyester (rPET), polytrimetylenteftalat (Bio-PTT), polyetenfuranoat (PEF), polyetentereftalat (Bio- PET), polymjölksyra (PLA), polybutensuccinat (PBS) och polyhydroxialkanoater (PHA). I teorin kan samtliga biobaserade material som undersökts spinnas till textila fibrer, vissa finns redan på marknaden och andra är under utvecklingsfasen. Resultatet i Higg MSI visar att råvarans ursprung har en inverkan, men att de biobaserade råvaror inte alltid leder till en lägre klimatpåverkan, här kan återvunna fossilbaserade material uppvisa bättre resultat. Biobaserade material är fördelaktiga ur den synpunkt att de utvinns från förnybara källor, vilket bidrar till lägre koldioxidutsläpp längs hela värdekedjan. Konceptet kring bioekonomi stärker tillämpningen av biopolymerer, då materialet kan övergå från den tekniska till biologiska cykeln enligt Ellen MacArthus fjärilsdiagram. Hanteringen när produkten når end-of-life avgör om man kan närma sig ett cirkulärt kretslopp. Bionedbrytningsbara polymerer ingår i en open-loop- För en cirkulär ekonomi eftersträvar man att material skall ingå i en closed-loop samt uppnå så lång livslängd som möjlig för att minska den totala klimatpåverkan, vilket kan var kritiskt för de bionedbrytningsbara material. I detta område krävs mer efterforskning. Bio-PET och PEF är fördelaktiga då de går att framställa och återvinna i samma strömmar som PET. Det är även avgörande hur stor tillgängligheten är, möjlighet för återvinning och materialets egenskaper när det kommer till val av fibrer för en minskad klimatpåverkan. Bland de bionedbrytningbara materialen är PLA den mest lämpade. Polyester är i dagsläget svårt att ersätta med ett annat polymert material som avsevärt förbättrar produkten under användarfasen. Forskningen som bedrivs leder till ökad tillgång av de biobaserade materialen samt förbättrade egenskaper under användarfasen. Biobaserade material är ett bra komplement till återvunna material för att fasa ut tillverkningen av jungfruliga material. / The global demand for textiles is constantly increasing, and at the same time the textile industry is facing major challenges regarding its significant impact on the climate and the environment. Approximately 65 million tons of synthetic materials are produced annually, with polyester accounting for 82% and dominating the market. Polyester (PET) is produced from non-renewable resources, increasing the share of CO2 in the atmosphere and contributing to higher average temperatures. Several measures need to be implemented to reduce CO2 emissions by 30% until 2030. Bioplastics have the potential to contribute to a more sustainable life cycle because they are made from renewable or recycled raw materials. The purpose with this report is to investigate the impact of replacing conventional polyester with bio-based polymeric materials in textile products. The study will provide insight into the climate impacts of fiber choices production, usephases, and waste management as part of the transition to a circular economy. The study is based on products provided by the Norwegian company BRAV (Lundhags). The information is based on a literature review and the Higg MSI, and is based on cradle-to-gate. Recycled polyester (rPET), polytrimethylenephthalate (bio-PTT), polyethylenefuranoate (PEF), polyethyleneterephthalate (bio-PET), polylactic acid (PLA), and polybutenesuccinate (PBS) and polyhydroxyalkanoate(PHA) were evaluated and compared in terms of their impact on the climate, recycled PET and polytrimethylene (BPET) shows the best result. Theoretically, all of the biobased materials considered can be spun into fiber, some are already on the market, and others are still under development. The result from HiggMSI shows that the source of the raw material has an impact, but biobased raw materials doesn't necessarily have a lower impact on climate and conversely, fossil-based recycled feedstock may show better results. Bio-based feedstocks are advantageous in that they are extracted from renewable resources and contribute to lower carbon emissions throughout the value chain. The concept of bioeconomics enhances the application of biopolymers because it allows materials to move from the technological cycle to the biological cycle according to the Ellen MacArthus butterfly diagram. Waste management determines whether a material can be moved closer to a circular cycle or not. Biodegradable polymers are part of an open-loop, and in a circular economy, the goal is for materials to be part of this system. It is also desirable to achieve the longest possible lifetime to reduce the impact on climate, which is critical for biodegradable materials and requires further research in this area. Bio-PET and PEF have the advantage that they can be produced and recycled in the same stream as PET. In addition, availability, recyclability, and properties are important to consider when choosing fibers to reduce climate impact. Among biodegradable materials, PLA is the most suitable. Polyester is currently difficult to replace with other polymeric materialsals can significantly improve products during the usephase. As research continues, access to biobased materials will increase and their properties will improve. Biobased materials are an effective complement to recycled materials and can help phase out the production of virgin materials.

[ES] En este trabajo de Tesis se han llevado a cabo cuatro líneas de investigación a fin de analizar el comportamiento acústico de nuevas soluciones basadas en tejidos textiles procedentes de la industria textil, a partir de modificaciones o combinaciones estructurales de los mismos. En esta Tesis se ha estudiado la estructura de la fibra textil a partir del análisis de los parámetros macroestructurales de la fibra, como la finura, la longitud, y la sección transversal. Además, se ha investigado el grado de influencia de estos parámetros sobre la absorción acústica. Se pudo evidenciar que la finura de la fibra tiene una influencia significativa en la absorción acústica en comparación con la longitud de fibra. Además, las fibras huecas tienen un mejor comportamiento acústico, comparado con las fibras sólidas. Una vez analizada la estructura y la composición de la fibra, se adhirieron microcápsulas en la superficie de los tejidos textiles a fin de aumentar la absorción acústica de éstos. Para ello, se han considerado distintas posibilidades de diseño según el tipo de tejido base usado, la homogeneidad de los tejidos de base dopada y la concentración de microcápsulas. Además, se ha utilizado un modelo de membrana con la finalidad de predecir el comportamiento acústico de tejidos textiles dopados con microcápsulas. En este estudio se pudo comprobar que la absorción acústica está influenciada por el dopaje de los tejidos con MCCs. Seguidamente, se combinaron tejidos textiles con con otros materiales con el objetivo de disponer de absorción selectiva o de aumentar la absorción acústica en el rango de frecuencias de trabajo. Asimismo, se ha pretendido observar el efecto acústico de espumas tradicionales perforadas mediante diferentes tecnologías. Además, se han utilizado modelos de doble porosidad y métodos numéricos con la finalidad de validar los resultados obtenidos experimentalmente. Se pudo comprobar que la absorción acústica del sistema tejido-espuma perforada depende ligeramente del textil usado. Además, se obtuvo gran concordancia entre los valores predichos y experimentales. Finalmente, se ha analizado la influencia de la estructura del tejido. Se ha investigado el efecto acústico producido por los parámetros geométricos, utilizados en el diseño de tejidos plegados, como la longitud del pliegue, el número de pliegues, la distancia entre pliegues consecutivos o la altura del pliegue. Se ha pretendido, mediante cambios en la estructura del tejido textil, obtener valores de absorción típicos de un material acústico. Además, se ha utilizado un modelo de membrana permeable plegada con el fin de predecir el coeficiente de absorción acústica en campo difuso. En este estudio se pudo comprobar que los tejidos plegados presentan un mayor coeficiente de absorción acústica en medias y altas frecuencias, tanto en incidencia normal como en incidencia aleatoria. Además, a menor número de pliegues, se consiguen valores más elevados de absorción acústica en todo el margen frecuencial. / [CA] En aquest treball de Tesi s'han dut a terme quatre línies de recerca per tal d'analitzar el comportament acústic de noves solucions basades en teixits tèxtils procedents de la indústria tèxtil, a partir de modificacions o combinacions estructurals dels mateixos. En aquesta Tesi s'ha estudiat l'estructura de la fibra tèxtil a partir de l'anàlisi dels paràmetres macroestructurals de la fibra, com la finor, la longitud, i la secció transversal. A més a més, s'ha investigat el grau d'influència d'aquests paràmetres sobre l'absorció acústica. Es va poder evidenciar que la finor de la fibra té una influència significativa en l'absorció acústica en comparació amb la longitud de fibra. A més, les fibres buides tenen un millor comportament acústic, comparat amb les fibres sòlides. Una volta analitzada l'estructura i la composició de la fibra, es van adherir microcàpsules en la superfície dels teixits tèxtils a fi d'augmentar l'absorció acústica d'aquests. Per a això, s'han considerat diferents possibilitats de disseny segons el tipus de teixit bàsic emprat, l'homogeneïtat dels teixits de base dopada i la concentració de microcàpsules. A més a més, s'ha utilitzat un model de membrana amb la finalitat de predir el comportament acústic de teixits tèxtils dopats amb microcàpsules. En aquest estudi es va comprovar que l'absorció acústica està influenciada pel dopatge dels teixits amb MCCs. Seguidament, es van combinar teixits tèxtils amb amb altres materials amb l'objectiu de disposar d'absorció selectiva o d'augmentar l'absorció acústica en el rang de freqüències de treball. Així mateix, s'ha pretès observar l'efecte acústic d'espumes tradicionals perforades mitjançant diferents tecnologies. A més a més, s'han utilitzat models de doble porositat i mètodes numèrics amb la finalitat de validar els resultats obtinguts experimentalment. Es va comprovar que l'absorció acústica de sistema teixit-espuma perforada depèn lleugerament del tèxtil usat. A més, es va obtenir gran concordança entre els valors predits i experimentals. Finalment, s'ha analitzat la influència de l'estructura del teixit. S'ha investigat l'efecte acústic produït pels paràmetres geomètrics, utilitzats en el disseny de teixits plegats, com la longitud del plec, el nombre de plecs, la distància entre plecs consecutius o l'alçada del plec. S'ha pretès, mitjançant canvis en l'estructura del teixit tèxtil, obtenir valors d'absorció típics d'un material acústic. A més a més, s'ha utilitzat un model de membrana permeable plegada per tal de predir el coeficient d'absorció acústica en camp difús. En aquest estudi es va poder comprovar que els teixits plegats presenten un major coeficient d'absorció acústica en mitges i altes freqüències, tant en incidència normal com en incidència aleatòria. A més, a menor nombre de plecs, s'aconsegueixen valors més elevats d'absorció acústica en tot el marge freqüencial. / [EN] In this thesis work, four lines of research have been carried out in order to analyse the acoustic behaviour of new solutions based on textile fabrics from the textile industry. In this Thesis, the structure of the textile fibre has been studied from the analysis of the macrostructural parameters of the fibre, such as fineness, length, and cross section. Furthermore, the degree of influence of these parameters on acoustic absorption has been investigated. It could be shown that the fineness of the fibre has a significant influence on the acoustic absorption compared to the length of the fibre. In addition, hollow fibres have a better acoustic behaviour, compared to solid fibres. Once the structure and composition of the fibre had been analysed, microcapsules were adhered to the surface of the textile fabrics to increase their acoustic absorption. For this, different design possibilities have been considered according to the type of base fabric used, the homogeneity of the doped base fabrics and the concentration of microcapsules. In addition, a membrane model has been used to predict the acoustic behaviour of textile fabrics doped with microcapsules. In this study it was found that acoustic absorption is influenced by fabric doping with MCCs. Then, textile fabrics were combined with other materials in order to have selective absorption or to increase acoustic absorption in the range of working frequencies. In the same way, it has been tried to observe the acoustic effect of traditional foams perforated with different technologies. In addition, double porosity models and numerical methods have been used to validate the results obtained experimentally. It was found that the acoustic absorption of the perforated fabric-foam system depends slightly on the textile used. In addition, great agreement was obtained between the predicted and experimental values. Finally, the influence of the fabric structure has been analysed. The acoustic effect produced by the geometric parameters used in the design of folded fabrics, such as the length of the fold, the number of folds, the distance between consecutive folds or the height of the fold has been investigated. It has been tried to obtain typical absorption values of an acoustic material through changes in the structure of the textile fabric. Furthermore, a folded permeable membrane model has been used to predict the acoustic absorption coefficient in diffuse field. In this study, it was found that folded fabrics have a higher acoustic absorption coefficient in medium and high frequencies, both in normal incidence and in random incidence. Furthermore, the fewer the folds, the higher the acoustic absorption values are achieved throughout the frequency range. / Atiénzar Navarro, R. (2021). Estudio, modelado y caracterización acústica de nuevas soluciones en base a tejidos textiles [Tesis doctoral]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/166795