Thesis (MBA)--Stellenbosch University, 2001. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: In the past the textile and clothing industry was a protected industry that was driven by import substitution. The retail market was driven by the manufacturers - customers could only buy what the market offered. Products were priced according to local competition and local input costs. After the liberalisation of South Africa's trade, the whole scenario changed - not only was the industry driven by the consumer, but the industry suddenly had to compete on a global basis and input costs - specially labour, increased substantially. The above, together with other structural changes, posed a tremendous challenge to companies in this industry, and a substantial number could not meet these challenges effectively. This gave rise to a new partner in this industry - the informal clothing manufacturing industry. In order to survive and compete globally, manufacturers had to equal or better international competitors and find their specific markets. The above implied that the following issues had to be addressed: • Backlog on capital spending • Increase in productivity • Increasing quality • Sourcing cheaper raw materials of high quality • Funding • Focusing on niche markets • Implementing best practises according to international standards • Utilising the depreciation of the local currency. Unfortunately, a large number of local companies were not able to adapt due to: • Absence of management skills • Inability to fund the period of change • Lack and deterioration of market • Lack of critical mass in terms of volume. At present, a large number of the companies have successfully adapted and are profitable. The future of the textile and clothing industry does not look bleak at all, and exciting growth and employment opportunities exist, given that the following issues can be addressed: • The cost of labour, especially with regards to the HIV/AIDS issue. • Addressing the standard of management. • Creating and implementing a unified strategy with strategic alliances under strong leadership. • Utilising the new global trade opportunities. It is the contention of the writer that the Western Cape will see a tremendous growth in the Textile and Clothing Industry within the near future. International relocation to South Africa may take place due to favourable export opportunities offered. The demographic qualities of the Western Cape exceed that of other regions in South Africa - particularly regarding HIV/AIDS and education. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: In die verlede is die klere en tekstiel industrie grootliks gekenmerk deur invoer vervanging. Die verbruikers se keuse in die mark was grootliks bepaal deur die produsente. Pryse was 'n funksie van die plaaslike kompetisie en vervaardigingskoste. Na die liberalisering van die Suid Afrikaanse ekonomie het die situasie drasties verander. Die mark word nou bepaal deur die verbruiker, en die industrie moes in 'n internasionale mark kompeteer. In dieselfde tyd het die koste van arbeid ook dramaties toegeneem - een van die groot inset kostes in die bedryf. Bogenoemde en ander strukturele veranderinge het uitdagings aan die plaaslike industrie daargestel wat nie deur 'n groot aantal plaaslike deelnemers effektief aangespreek kon word nie. Dit het aanleiding gegee tot die groei van die informele sektor in die nywerheid. Ten einde winsgewend te wees in die internasionale arena en te oorleef moes vervaardigers spesifieke markte identifiseer en spesialiseer. Maatskappye is genoop om die volgende aspekte as 'n saak van oorlewing aan te spreek: • Die herinvestering ten opsigte van verouderde vervaardigings toerusting • Verbetering van produktiwiteit en kwaliteit • Verkryging van bekostigbare hoë kwaliteit materiaal • Investering • Spesialis en niche markte • Implimentering van wereldklas vervaardigings standaarde • Strategiese positionering ten opsigte van die verswakking van die rand wisselkoers Ongelukkig was 'n groot aantal plaaslike maatskappye nie in staat om aan te pas nie. Dit kon hoofsaaklik toegeskryf word aan die volgende: • Gebrek aan bestuursvernuf • Onvermoë om die oorgangsfase te befonds • Gebrek aan toepaslike markte • Onvoldoende omset ten einde kritieke volumes te behaal • Strukturele koste samestelling Tans is daar uiters suksesvolle en winsgewende maatskappye in die klere en tekstiel bedryf. Die toekoms van die bedryf in Suid Afrika is nie duister nie. Geleentheid vir groei en indiensneming bestaan, mits die volgende aspekte doeltreffend aangespreek kan word: • Die koste van arbeid, veral met betrekking tot die addisionele koste impliasie van HIV/VIGS • Bestuurskundigheid • Die effektiewe beplanning en uitvoering van 'n unitêre strategie wat alle betrokke partye in die industrie betrek • Die ontsluiting van nuwe wêreld handelsgeleenthede Dit is die skrywer se opinie dat die Weskaap 'n groei in die bedryf sal beleef. Oorsese maatskappye mag vervaardigingsfasiliteite in Suid Afrika hervestig as gevolg van die gunstige uitvoer geleenthede wat Suid Afrika bied. Die demografiese kwaliteit van die Weskaap is beter as die res van Suid Afrika - veral wat betref opvoeding en die voorkoms van HIV/VIGS.

Dissertation (PhD)--Stellenbosch University, 2003. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: At the beginning of the 1990s, the South African textile industry faced many challenges, including the dismantling of protective barriers, requiring firms to adapt to increased foreign competition in the local and global markets. Many opted for investment in new technology. This study set out to analyse the behaviour of South African textile firms in the process of introducing new technology in pursuit of competitiveness. The analysis was conducted following the evolutionary approach in economics (discussedin Chapter 2). This approach incorporates time, pays attention to the deliberate actions of firms to shape their environment, as well as persistent diversity amongst firms. This study asked two broad questions. First, what were the major trends in textiles regarding technology, demand-side factors, the trade regime, etc.? (Chapter3). Chapter 3 sets the scene for the rest of the study in that it illustrates how the competitive environment of textile firms has changed and argues that the aggregate picture is often not a true reflection of the dynamics of the industry, thus paving the way for micro-level analysis of firms and institutions. Secondly, what were the subsequent responsesby textile firms and institutions to these changes?This question is investigated for the global textile industry (Chapter 3), the South African, Italian and Mauritian textile industries (Chapters 4 and 5), and for specific firms in the South African textile industry (Chapters 6 and 7). Institutions play an important role in shaping the development of industries, just as firms in an industry may influence institutions. The role of institutions in the South African textile industry is considered in Chapter 5, which serves as background to Chapter 6, where we enquire about the significance of these institutions from the firms' perspective. The central focus of Chapter 6, however, is on the processof acquisition and implementation of new technology in South African textile firms. The implications of this process for other strategies, organisational processes, competencies, and routines are also analysed. Basedon the outcome of the firm-level analysis, three categories of firms are distinguished, namely leading firms, moderate adapters, and laggards. Using the characteristics of the firms in each category, we select three firms to pursue further in case studies. Chapter 7 presents the results of these case studies. Although the main focus of our study is on the implementation of new technology, we want to illustrate in this chapter how the successof this process critically depends on factors such as an appropriate organisational structure, the competencies of management and labour, as well as the institutions in the industry. We further highlight the important role that individuals, such as entrepreneurs, play in shaping the paths of firms, their relationships with institutions, suppliers, and customers, and even the structure of the industry. We conclude that investing in new technology is a necessary but not sufficient strategy for successful rejuvenation of firms in a mature industry. Complementary changes, such as in organisational structure, use of human resources, and supply-chain relations, are of crucial importance, too (Chapter 8). / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Aan die begin van die 1990s het die Suid-Afrikaanse tekstielbedryf menige uitdagings (soos die aftakeling van beskermingsmaatreëls) in die gesig gestaar, wat hulle gedwing het om meer doeltreffend in die plaaslike en globale markte te word. Hierdie studie ontleed die gedrag van ondernemings in die tekstielbedryf in die proses van verkryging en implementering van nuwe tegnologie ten einde mededingingendheid te bevorder. Die studie volg die evolusionêre benadering, wat tyd inbou en aandag skenk aan doelbewuste aksies deur maatskappye om hulle omgewing te beïnvloed, asook volgehoue diversiteit tussen maatskappye (Hoofstuk 2). Die studie het twee breë vrae gestel. Eerstens, is daar gekyk na die belangrikste tendense t.O.V. tegnologiese veranderinge, vraagkantfaktore, handelsregulasies, ensovoorts, in die tekstielbedryf (Hoofstuk 3). Hoofstuk 3 skets die struktuur vir die res van die studie deur die veranderinge in die omgewing waarbinne tekstielmaatskappye meeding uit te lig, maar ook deur aan te toon dat die globale prentjie nie altyd 'n ware refleksie van die dinamiek van 'n nywerheid is nie, omdat soveel diversiteit daardeur verbloem kan word. Hierdie argument is dus ten gunste van verdere mikrovlak analise van ondernemings en instellings. Tweedens word gevra watter reaksies op hierdie veranderinge daar van ondernemings en instellings se kant af was. Hierdie vraag word ondersoek vir die globale tekstielbedryf (Hoofstuk 3), die Suid-Afrikaanse en Italiaanse tekstielbedrywe, asook die bedryf in Mauritius (Hoofstuk 4 en 5). Verder word die vraag vir spesifieke Suid-Afrikaanse ondernemings in Hoofstukke 6 en 7 bestudeer. Instellings speel 'n belangrike rol in die ontwikkeling van nywerhede, net soos ondernemings in nywerhede ook instellings kan beïnvloed. Die rol van instellings in die Suid-Afrikaanse tekstielbedryf word in Hoofstuk 5 behandel, deels as agtergrond vir Hoofstuk 6 waar die belangrikheid van instellings uit die ondernemings se oogpunt van naderby beskou word. Die hooffokus van Hoofstuk 6 is egter die verkryging en implementering van nuwe tegnologie in Suid-Afrikaanse tekstielmaatskappye. Die implikasies wat hierdie proses vir ander strategieë, organisatoriese prosesse, vaardighede en roetines van die ondernemings inhou, word ook bestudeer. Voortvloeiend uit die ondernemingsvlakanalise, word drie kategorieë van ondernemings onderskei, naamlik leiers, middelmatige aanpassers en sloerders. Op grond van die kenmerke van die ondernemings in elkeen van die kategorieë is drie maatskappye vir verdere ontleding in gevallestudies gekies (Hoofstuk 7). Alhoewel die hooffokus van die studie die implementering van nuwe tegnologie is, illustreer ons ook in Hoofstuk 7 dat die proses sterk beïnvloed word deur faktore soos die organisatoriese struktuur, die vaardighede van die bestuur en werkers, sowel as die instellings in die industrie. Ons beklemtoon verder die belangrike rol wat individue, soos entrepreneurs, speel t.O.V. die ontwikkelingstrajek van ondernemings, sowel as die verwantskappe wat ondernemings met verskaffers, instellings en klante opbou. Aksies deur individue beïnvloed in die finale instansie ook die struktuur van die industrie. Ons gevolgtrekking is dat investering in nuwe tegnologie 'n noodsaaklike maar nie voldoende strategie vir die suksesvolle vernuwing van ondernemings in 'n volwasse nywerheid is nie. Komplementêre veranderinge, byvoorbeeld in die organisatoriese struktuur, die benutting van arbeid, en verhoudings in die verskaffingsnetwerk, is ook van kernbelang.

Thesis (MTech (Business Administration))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2007 / An assessment undertaken by the Clothing and Textile Centre in the Western Cape (Clotex) during 2002 revealed that there was a great need for quality in the clothing sector. Furthermore, the research undertaken by the Department of Science and Technology (2004) supports and recommends the development of simple, paper-based systems for implementation and measurement for quality and production systems. An analysis of the macro- and micro-environmental factors confronting the clothing industry revealed that substantial pressure was placed on the clothing industry due to unfavourable exchange rates, increased pricing and illegal imports. The result has been a decline in sales, profits and exports, which has lead to the closure of many clothing companies in the Western Cape during the period 2003 to present. Furthermore, this has resulted in the increase of SMME companies that have been established due to the increase in unemployment. A combination of qualitative and quantitative research techniques was applied during this study, namely focus-group sessions and survey questionnaires. Six focus-group sessions were held with participants from the retail sector, large manufacturers and small manufacturers with the purpose to establish the quality needs in the clothing industry and the type of quality systems utilised. The outcome of the focus group was the development of a questionnaire, using both a combination of scale response questions as well as dichotomous questions. As a result a research survey was conducted amongst the small manufacturing companies in the Western Cape who conform to the provisions contained in the National Business Act, 1996 (Act 102 of 1996). The research revealed that all the respondents had implemented quality control systems. Quality control systems are viewed as preventative systems in ensuring that goods not conforming to customer specifications are prevented from reaching the customer. The research analysis further revealed that communication between buyer and seller was an integral part of the success of the business. The research provides small-business with a framework, which will facilitate the evaluation of the current quality practices with the view to improving or implementing an effective quality assurance system.

Environmental legislation is becoming more stringent as people are realising the need for conservation and a reduction of environmental degradation in order to facilitate sustainable development. To ease legislative pressures, companies need to work together in symbiotic networks, whereby co-operation between companies results in far more innovative practices than if the companies acted individually. Success in an industrial network is largely dependent on cleaner production, where industries seek to redirect from waste treatment to waste minimisation. Cleaner production has already received international recognition and waste minimisation initiatives have been used as a tool of cleaner production. Two polluting industrial sectors within South Africa, the textile and metal finishing sectors, were chosen to investigate waste minimisation concepts. One company from each sector was used as a case study. The dissertation followed company network identification, potential to participate within an industrial symbiotic network, and waste minimisation opportunities. Suppliers and buyers, up and down the product line were identified. Relationships with these partners should be advanced such that environmental concerns are at the forefront of any decision-making. In light of developing industrial networks and maintaining symbiotic relationships, the company's potential was investigated by interviewing employees of various ranks. Both companies were partially suited to participate within an industrial symbiotic network and company-specific barriers were identified, such as ineffective internal communication. The waste minimisation investigation followed a four-phase approach of planning and organisation; pre-assessment; assessment; and feasibility study. In both the companies investigated, water savings were identified as the waste minimisation focus area with potential for improvement. In total, potential water savings of over R80 000 per annum were identified. In the textile company, the weaving department and bleach house were further investigated. Cloth weaving errors were attributed to machine stops, as each stop has the potential to result in a cloth fault. In the bleach house the potential existed to reduce the number of rinse tanks. Although a modem and automated process, the plating plant in the metal finishing company was identified as having potential waste minimisation opportunities. Of particular interest was the reduction of solution carry over from the plating tanks into subsequent tanks. Extended drip times were investigated. Additional waste minimisation opportunities included repairing pipe leaks, replacing the degreasing solvent, trichloroethylene, with a less harmful cleaning agent and establishing a symbiotic relationship with the oil supplier, Castrol. Over and above the main waste minimisation opportunities highlighted, other recommendations and potential savings were identified. Each case study emphasises that simple waste minimisation initiatives, without expending capital, reduce demands on natural resource, such as water, and benefit the company financially. Successful waste minimisation leads to further cleaner production initiatives, which may then initiate better network interactions with the further potential of promoting sustainable development. / Thesis (M.Sc.Eng.)-University of Natal, Durban, 2002.

The challenge of enhancing competitiveness in a globalizing world is a continuous one, requiring action not only on narrow trade policy concerns but also in a complementary area such as the macro-economic environment to human resource management. The present report offers an overall view of the textile and clothing industries' opportunities and constrains. It proposes liberalization of trade policy with China as well as proper macro-economic environments, regulatory structures support to allow these industries to thrive and be/come robust by building an effective and efficient supply chain. / Thesis (MBA)-University of Natal, 2003.

The aim of this thesis is to bring together scattered information about the South African textile industry in an endeavour to give its growth some semblance of order up to 1948. The thesis commences by looking at the early colonial period, from the arrival of the 1820 Settlers and the first mill they established. As wool and cotton are basic commodities in the textile industry, these are dealt with from the arrival of Jan van Riebeeck in 1652, as is the colonial economy. The development of the industry is tabled , in chronological order, from 1822 covering where mills were sited and their founders. Two chapters are devoted to the leading pioneers in the industry - Harris, Mauerberger, Beier and Frame. The position of trade unions and the role of the state in the industry are looked at, subsequently. The thesis concludes with an assessment of the industry up to 1948. The question is posed as to the future of the textile industry in the South African economy. / Thesis (M.Com.)-University of Natal, Durban, 2000.