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Great changes characterized the mid- to late nineteenth century in the field of dye chemistry, including many innovations in the production of colours across the spectrum, especially the development of synthetic dyes from coal-tar aniline. From 1840 to 1875, textile manufacturers offered a wide variety of colourful dress textiles to female fashion consumers in both Great Britain and the United States. Middle-class women were urged to educate themselves about dyeing, science, and colour, while cultivating appropriate, moderate attention to fashion in dress. This thesis examines the mid-nineteenth century relationship of fashion, dye chemistry, and everyday science, exploring consumers’ responses to these phenomena of modernity. Paying special attention to the appreciation of chemistry and colour theory during the period, this project considers how the development of new dyes affected middle-class uses and discussions of colours in women’s dress.

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A importância das indústrias têxtil e de vestuário é fundamentada nas suas elevadas capacidades de geração de empregos e renda, dada a sua característica de reduzida possibilidade de automatização dos seus processos produtivos, fato que ocorre principalmente na cadeia do vestuário. Além disso, os setores são responsáveis por uma parcela importante dos empregos menos qualificados em países desenvolvidos. Diante disso, as indústrias conseguiram receber um tratamento diferenciado, relativamente aos demais bens manufaturados, nas regras de liberalização comercial definidas no Acordo Geral de Tarifas e Comércio - GATT. O Acordo de Têxteis e Vestuário (Agreement on Textiles and Clothing - ATC) da Organização Mundial do Comércio, com vigência a partir de 1995, pôs início à eliminação gradual de quotas bilaterais de exportação existentes até a referida data durante um prazo de dez anos. Após 1º de janeiro de 2005, portanto, tal acordo completou seus objetivos, devendo o comércio internacional de produtos têxteis e de vestuário estar sob as demais regras de manufaturados do GATT 1994. Com a eliminação das barreiras quantitativas, os custos de exportação e, conseqüentemente, os seus preços de exportação, tiveram uma redução. Contudo, o fim do ATC pôs início a novas medidas protecionistas pelos setores, que passaram a sofrer concorrência direta com países cujos preços de exportação são significativamente menores, tal como a China. Sendo assim, este trabalho analisou os efeitos do fim do ATC para a produção, emprego e desempenho comercial dos setores têxtil e de vestuário no Brasil, com o objetivo de avaliar a necessidade de tais indústrias receberem novas medidas de proteção comercial. Para avaliar tais impactos, utilizou-se uma simulação em um modelo de Equilíbrio Geral Computável global adotando hipóteses de comportamento de médio prazo da economia, onde as restrições quantitativas foram transformadas em tarifas em equivalente ad valorem dos preços de exportação. Os resultados do modelo indicam um aumento da produção e do emprego de fatores produtivos nas indústrias referidas e nas diretamente relacionadas às atividades produtivas no Brasil, tal como o setor de fibras naturais e serviços. Também se verificou uma realocação dos fornecedores de insumos importados e destinos das exportações de bens finais no Brasil, com desempenho positivo do saldo comercial, o que se refletiu em valorização real do câmbio e aumento relativo dos preços dos produtos domésticos sobre os importados. As conclusões foram que a eliminação completa de barreiras quantitativas devem ter efeitos diferenciados dentro diferentes segmentos das indústrias, como exemplo os de fibras naturais e sintéticas, sendo seu impacto agregado positivo para os setores analisados e para a economia brasileira. / The importance of the textile and clothing industry is based on its high capacities to generate employment and income, provided its basic characteristic of reduced ability to automate the production processes. Besides that, these sectors are responsible for an important share of the low qualified jobs in the developed countries. Therefore, the industries achieved a different treatment, compared to the other manufactured goods, in the liberalization rules defined in the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade - GATT. The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing - ATC of the World Trade Organization, in vigor since 1995, started a process of gradual elimination of the bilateral export quotas existent from the mentioned data during a period of ten years. After January 1st, 2005, therefore, the agreement completed its objectives, with the international trade of textiles and clothing under the same rules for manufactures of the GATT 1994. With the elimination of the quantitative barriers, the exportation costs and, consequently, the exports prices, got a reduction. However, the end of the ATC marked a beginning of new protectionist measures by the industries, which faced the direct competition whit countries whose export prices are quite smaller, such as China. In this context, this work analyzed the effects of the end of the ATC on production, employment and trade performance of the textiles and clothing sectors in Brazil, with the objective of measuring the necessity of these industries to receive new forms protectionism. To assess these impacts, a global General Equilibrium Model was utilized adopting medium term hypothesis about the economy´s behavior, where the quantitative restrictions were transformed in ad valorem tariff equivalent of the export prices. The results of the model indicate an increase in the production and employment of the primary factors in the two mentioned industries and on the directly related activities in Brazil, such as the natural fibers and services. It was also verified a reallocation of the imported input suppliers and destinations of the exports of goods in Brazil, with a positive performance of the net trade, what reflected in a real valorization of exchange rate and a relative increase of the domestic prices over the imported. The conclusions are that the complete elimination of the quantitative barriers must have different effects in diverse segments of the industries, for instance the natural and synthetic fibers, with a positive aggregated impact to the analyzed sectors and to the Brazilian economy.

Turkish textile and clothing industry is one of the pillar industries of Turkish economy with its contribution to export, GDP and employment. Also, it has linkages with many other industries. As a consequent, developments emerged in the industry eventually affect the overall economy of Turkey. Hence, analysis of the competitiveness of the enterprises operating in the textile and clothing industry of Turkey is very important for a more competitive country. Within this context, the purpose of this study is to explore the key determinants of competitiveness of Turkish textiles and clothing industry, and analyze the effects of firm characteristics and future expectations on perceived competitive advantage of Turkish textiles and clothing firms. The study further purposes to analyze the Turkish textiles and clothing industry&rsquo / s structure.

A review on free trade principle in theory and practice suggests that trade liberalization is merely rhetoric under which industrialized countries can pursue specific interests of certain actors more deceptively. The purpose of this thesis is to testify whether this preliminary result on general trade issues is valid in the textile and clothing sector as well. The reasons for the author to narrow her research scope down to this industry are that: first, textiles and clothing had been subject to consistent trade protectionism for more than thirty years since the discriminatory Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA) in 1974; second, the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) in 1995 was designed to remove all quota restrictions by 1st January 2005 via a ten-year transitional period; third, the European Union (EU) raised safeguard investigations within four months after the expiry of the agreement, and succeeded in re-introducing quantitative restraints back to this sector. The intense and dramatic Europe-China textile dispute in 2005 started from the completion of quota abolishment, but ended up with quota re-imposition, which inspires the author to ask whether the European Union’s trade liberalization in the textile and clothing sector is rhetoric or reality. The thesis examines the conventional stance of the Union’s textile and clothing policy, the actual fulfillment of the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC), and the development of the Europe-China trade dispute on in 2005. In order to identify involved interest groups and their demands during the implementation of the agreement and in the dispute shortly afterwards, the thesis also analyzes: first, the interaction between protectionist lobbying groups and national governments at the Union’s level; and second, the divergence on the attitudes towards China’s expansion in the European market among member states.             Comparing the Union’s early promises in the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) with its actual behaviors during implementation and in dispute, the author finally concludes that the Union’s trade liberalization in the textile and clothing sector is merely rhetoric under which the European Union (EU) pursues the protectionist interests of its domestic textile and clothing producers and those member states with substantial textile and clothing industry.

A importância das indústrias têxtil e de vestuário é fundamentada nas suas elevadas capacidades de geração de empregos e renda, dada a sua característica de reduzida possibilidade de automatização dos seus processos produtivos, fato que ocorre principalmente na cadeia do vestuário. Além disso, os setores são responsáveis por uma parcela importante dos empregos menos qualificados em países desenvolvidos. Diante disso, as indústrias conseguiram receber um tratamento diferenciado, relativamente aos demais bens manufaturados, nas regras de liberalização comercial definidas no Acordo Geral de Tarifas e Comércio - GATT. O Acordo de Têxteis e Vestuário (Agreement on Textiles and Clothing - ATC) da Organização Mundial do Comércio, com vigência a partir de 1995, pôs início à eliminação gradual de quotas bilaterais de exportação existentes até a referida data durante um prazo de dez anos. Após 1º de janeiro de 2005, portanto, tal acordo completou seus objetivos, devendo o comércio internacional de produtos têxteis e de vestuário estar sob as demais regras de manufaturados do GATT 1994. Com a eliminação das barreiras quantitativas, os custos de exportação e, conseqüentemente, os seus preços de exportação, tiveram uma redução. Contudo, o fim do ATC pôs início a novas medidas protecionistas pelos setores, que passaram a sofrer concorrência direta com países cujos preços de exportação são significativamente menores, tal como a China. Sendo assim, este trabalho analisou os efeitos do fim do ATC para a produção, emprego e desempenho comercial dos setores têxtil e de vestuário no Brasil, com o objetivo de avaliar a necessidade de tais indústrias receberem novas medidas de proteção comercial. Para avaliar tais impactos, utilizou-se uma simulação em um modelo de Equilíbrio Geral Computável global adotando hipóteses de comportamento de médio prazo da economia, onde as restrições quantitativas foram transformadas em tarifas em equivalente ad valorem dos preços de exportação. Os resultados do modelo indicam um aumento da produção e do emprego de fatores produtivos nas indústrias referidas e nas diretamente relacionadas às atividades produtivas no Brasil, tal como o setor de fibras naturais e serviços. Também se verificou uma realocação dos fornecedores de insumos importados e destinos das exportações de bens finais no Brasil, com desempenho positivo do saldo comercial, o que se refletiu em valorização real do câmbio e aumento relativo dos preços dos produtos domésticos sobre os importados. As conclusões foram que a eliminação completa de barreiras quantitativas devem ter efeitos diferenciados dentro diferentes segmentos das indústrias, como exemplo os de fibras naturais e sintéticas, sendo seu impacto agregado positivo para os setores analisados e para a economia brasileira. / The importance of the textile and clothing industry is based on its high capacities to generate employment and income, provided its basic characteristic of reduced ability to automate the production processes. Besides that, these sectors are responsible for an important share of the low qualified jobs in the developed countries. Therefore, the industries achieved a different treatment, compared to the other manufactured goods, in the liberalization rules defined in the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade - GATT. The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing - ATC of the World Trade Organization, in vigor since 1995, started a process of gradual elimination of the bilateral export quotas existent from the mentioned data during a period of ten years. After January 1st, 2005, therefore, the agreement completed its objectives, with the international trade of textiles and clothing under the same rules for manufactures of the GATT 1994. With the elimination of the quantitative barriers, the exportation costs and, consequently, the exports prices, got a reduction. However, the end of the ATC marked a beginning of new protectionist measures by the industries, which faced the direct competition whit countries whose export prices are quite smaller, such as China. In this context, this work analyzed the effects of the end of the ATC on production, employment and trade performance of the textiles and clothing sectors in Brazil, with the objective of measuring the necessity of these industries to receive new forms protectionism. To assess these impacts, a global General Equilibrium Model was utilized adopting medium term hypothesis about the economy´s behavior, where the quantitative restrictions were transformed in ad valorem tariff equivalent of the export prices. The results of the model indicate an increase in the production and employment of the primary factors in the two mentioned industries and on the directly related activities in Brazil, such as the natural fibers and services. It was also verified a reallocation of the imported input suppliers and destinations of the exports of goods in Brazil, with a positive performance of the net trade, what reflected in a real valorization of exchange rate and a relative increase of the domestic prices over the imported. The conclusions are that the complete elimination of the quantitative barriers must have different effects in diverse segments of the industries, for instance the natural and synthetic fibers, with a positive aggregated impact to the analyzed sectors and to the Brazilian economy.

No description available.

Made available in DSpace on 2015-03-05T18:39:03Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 9 / Nenhuma / Esta dissertação procura revelar quais os produtos de vestuário brasileiros cujas exportações têm maior potencial de crescimento com o fim do Acordo sobre Têxteis e Vestuário, através do Índice de Vantagem Comparativa Revelada (IVCR), no período de 2000 a 2003. O comércio internacional do setor têxtil passou um longo período regulado por quotas bilaterais, mas recentemente, em 2005, o Acordo Multifibras (AMF) e o Acordo sobre Têxteis e Vestuário (ATV), que regulavam o comércio deste setor, foram abolidos. O complexo têxtil brasileiro, evidenciando os capítulos 61 e 62 da Nomenclatura Comum do Mercosul (NCM), que englobam os produtos de vestuário, tem um papel importante na geração de empregos e na produção industrial brasileira, mas apresenta um baixo grau de competitividade internacional. De um total de 231 produtos, a seis dígitos da Nomenclatura Comum do Mercosul (NCM), apenas três mostravam-se competitivos e, mesmo assim, essa competitividade apresentava uma tendência de queda ao longo do período anal / This study sought to reveal which Brazilian clothing products are prone to show the highest growth potential with the phasing out of the Multifibre Arrangement (MFA) based on the Revealed Comparative Advantage Index (RCA) between 2000 and 2003. International trade on textile and clothing sector was subject to bilateral quotas for a long time, but recently the Multifibre Arrangement and the Agreement on Textile and Clothing (ATC) that regulate the trade on this sector were abolished. Brazilian textile sector, especially the chapters 61 and 62 of the Nomenclatura Comum do Mercosul (NCM), which encompasses the clothing products, has an important role to play in both employment and industrial production, but shows a low level of competitiveness. From a sample of 231 products at 06-digit level of the NCM, only three could be considered competitive and, even so, this competitiveness was declining throughout the period examined. Thus, the end of restrictions on international trade on textiles and clothing would no

The aim of the thesis is based on the questionnaire survey to analyze customer satisfaction with the services of the company ODEVA, spol. s r.o. Lipany. The questionnaire was sent to customers by e-mail and data which have been collected through it have been processed into graphs and charts. The thesis is divided in two parts. In the theoretical part I define step by step services in the sphere of production, quality as well as customer satisfaction. I also describe reasons why the company should monitor customer satisfaction and at the end of this section I describe the standard procedure for monitoring and measuring customer satisfaction. The practical part deals with the short description of the textile and clothing industry in Slovakia, as well as the company in which the research was conducted. Outcomes of the research are analyzed and on that basis recommendations in order to improve services are proposed at the end of the thesis.