II. ABSTRACTTextilen is a project designed to draw the human senses to the world of microand macro patterns in sound and color and to explore methods for correlating thetwo mediums. This goal is accomplished via a two-fold process. First of all, patternsin sound are explored through the use of textile materials by way of creating newinstrument interfaces, synthesizer sources, and tones in music harmony. Secondly,the patterns of the textiles themselves are explored and incorporated into costumesand characters so an association between the emanating sounds and the visualstimulus presented by the characters, highlights the underlying patterns used inboth mediums. The final presentation will be organized in the context ofperformance art in a controlled sound environment.A subsidiary aim of the project has been to develop myself as an artist and bringmy interests and inspirations into an artistic context. In order to execute this,a design method that incorporates practical and theoretical research alongsidetechnical invention, graphic design, sound experimentation, and characterdesign was chosen. / Program: Master in Textile Design

Civilization has brought tremendous changes in the life of human beings. All things are changing day by day through the efforts of scientific researches. Among these textiles are good examples. During the industrial revolution they showed up one step in their evolution. The changes would not stop on the manufacturing of textiles on machineries; however the advancements continued on the developments of synthetic and regenerated fibers, invention of synthetic dye stuffs and new finishing process like plasma and sol gel treatments. Since the last 20 years, the developments of new kinds of textiles called smart and inter reactive textiles emerged to the globe. Recently published Literatures, books and journals on the fields of textiles, electronics, information technology, advanced materials and polymers indicate that Smart textile materials and their application will boom in the near future. They are not dreams any longer. Two decades have elapsed since they become one part of the modern technology of clothing, being on the shelves of the apparel and fashion markets. They are everywhere; from geo textiles in the soil to the outer space in the expedition of the universe; from the hospitals beddings and clothing‘s to the entertainments; and from the personal healthcare to sportswear applications. This thesis work aims to make a look on the literature overview of these incredible, dynamic and very important objects. / Program: Magisterutbildning i textilteknologi

Ce travail est basé sur une approche pluridisciplinaire des sources antiques ; les informations issues des sources écrites, de l’iconographie, des outils de tissage et des fragments textiles conservés, sont comparées pour créer une image aussi complète que possible de l’activité textile en Attique de l’époque classique. Cette étude révèle une activité textile très soutenue, divisée entre l’espace domestique et l’espace artisanal, occupant un grand nombre d’hommes et de femmes. Les Grecs anciens avaient hérité d’une grande tradition textile et d’un savoir-faire qui, comparé à la bonne connaissance du milieu naturel environnant, leur permettait de faire des choix (de matière première, de techniques de fabrication et de techniques d’ennoblissement) pour arriver chaque fois au résultat désiré. Des différences de qualité aux matières premières, aux techniques de fabrication et d’ennoblissement, évoquées dans la littérature de l’époque, indiquent l’existence de textiles de différentes qualités, qui répondaient aux besoins de toutes les couches sociales. / This study examines the textile production in classical Attica with an interdisciplinary method, which combines information from the written sources, the classical iconography, the textile production tools and the classical textile remains, in order to establish the most complete image possible of the textile activity in the classical period. The sources inform us of an elaborate textile industry and a high specialization of the professional technicians working in this domain. The Greeks have inherited a great textile tradition and technical knowledge, which, combined to their familiarity with the natural environment made them to be able to choose between raw materials, production and embellishment techniques in order to achieve the desired result. Differences in the quality of the raw materials, the production and embellishment techniques, as references in the literature, suggest the production of a great variety of textiles of different qualities in order to respond to the needs of all social classes.

La presente tesis tuvo como finalidad determinar la viabilidad comercial de textiles artesanales de la asociación Awakuq Makikuna de la comunidad de Porcón Alto, Cajamarca, para la ciudad de Barcelona, España. Identificando los productos más comercializados; conociendo la oferta y actual demanda y así exponer los aportes que gestarían al incrementar estas exportaciones al sector artesanal, mejorando el nivel socioeconómico de los artesanos cajamarquinos. Se realizó una investigación cualitativa y de nivel exploratorio; empleando técnicas de recolección de datos como entrevistas a profundidad al presidente de la asociación para conocer las características y la oferta del producto, encuestas dirigidas a habitantes de España que determinaron la existencia de una demanda futura de productos textiles artesanales. Se determina la existencia de gran demanda de textiles artesanales en España, no obstante los productos no cumplen con los requerimientos del mercado Español, debido a su exigente control de calidad y certificación de sus importaciones; pero se recomienda la mejora de su proceso productivo, y calidad del producto; con ayuda de entidades competentes en el asesoramiento de calidad y gestión empresarial. / Tesis

Sustainability is an important consideration in today’s society and all areas of textiles contribute to a negative environmental impact; in production, during the ‘in use’ phase and importantly, at the end of life. The use of fibres with alternative end of life options, such as recycling, to divert from landfill disposal, along with reduced temperatures for domestic laundering are becoming of increasing importance. However, concern arises when applied to the healthcare market, in particular, healthcare uniforms which could be contaminated with harmful microorganisms. It is common practice for healthcare uniforms in the United Kingdom to be laundered domestically by staff and, therefore, to establish current practices undertaken, a questionnaire to healthcare staff was distributed and resulted in 265 responses. Results were analysed to determine the most commonly used temperatures, detergents, frequency of laundering and items laundered with healthcare uniforms. The data showed that uniforms are not always laundered after every shift and the use of 40°C was common (33%, n=265). The survival of two frequently observed healthcare associated infections in hospitals, Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, on the surface of polyester and cotton was established and the attachment analysed using Scanning Electron Microscopy. These results demonstrated that polyester had the lowest survival of both microorganisms and less attachment was seen on the surface of the fibre when compared to cotton. Polyester was selected for textile testing and a range of development fabrics were created using variations in yarn type and fabric structure. Conventional test methods were used to determine the comfort properties of the fabrics created, with results indicating that equal or better performance can be achieved when compared to current fabrics used for healthcare uniforms. To determine the optimal laundering process to achieve removal of microorganisms from the surface of textile items, three household detergents along with a standard reference detergent were tested for their efficacy against E. coli and S. aureus at three temperatures (40°C, 60°C and 71°C) and three times (3, 10 and 15 minutes). A domestic laundering cycle was then simulated whereby an inoculated swatch of fabric was washed and tested for recovery of bacteria to determine the most appropriate temperature for use in the home. The results of the investigation indicated that a standard 40°C domestic wash cycle was ineffective at achieving complete removal of microbial contamination and could allow cross contamination to occur. The use of a 60°C standard domestic wash cycle was found to be significantly more effective, achieving complete removal of microbial contamination.

This work investigates the effect of fibre irregularities on the mechanical behaviour of the irregular fibres using the finite element method (FEM). The first part of this work examines that the effect of fibre dimensional irregularities on the linear and non-linear tensile behaviour of the fibres, using a two-dimensional (2D) finite element models. In the linear simulation, a concept of method Young’s modulus is introduced. The method Young’s modulus, breaking load and breaking extension are affected by the magnitude and frequency of diameter variation in the fibre specimen. Fibre dimensional variation and the gauge length effect are also simulated. In the non-linear analysis, some additional information is obtained on changes in the yield and post-yield regions, which are clearly shown in the load-extension curves. Further investigation is focused on the flexural buckling behaviour of fibres with dimensional irregularities. A three-dimensional (3D) finite element model is used to simulate the buckling deformation of dimensionally irregular fibres, and the critical buckling load of the simulated fibre is calculated. Two parameters, the effective length and the average diameter within the effective length of an irregular fibre, are considered to be the key factors that influence the buckling behaviour of the fibre. An important aspect of this work is the calculation of the effective length of an irregular fibre specimen during buckling. This method has not been reported before. The third part of this work is on the combined tensile and torsional behaviour of fibres with dimensional irregularities, using a three-dimensional (3D) finite element model. Two types of fibres, polyester and wool, are simulated with sine waves of different level (magnitude) and frequency at different twist levels. For the polyester fibre, experiment verification of the simulation results has been carried out, and the results indicate the FE model is well acceptable for the simulation. The final part of this work examines the combined effect of dimensional and structural irregularities on the fibre tensile behaviour. Three-dimensional (3D) finite element models are used to simulate the cracks (transverse, longitudinal, combined transverse and longitudinal cracks) and cavities distributed in uniform fibres and fibres with 30% level of diameter variation, respectively. One of important conclusions is that under the simulated conditions, the dimensional irregularity of fibre influences the tensile behaviour of fibres more than the fibre structural irregularity. The fibre dimensional irregularity affects not only the values of the breaking load and breaking extension, but also the shape of load-extension curves. However, the fibre structural irregularity simulated in the study appears to have little effect on the shape of the load-extension curves. In addition, the effect of crack or cavity size, type and distribution on fibre tensile properties is also investigated.

Museum textiles provide priceless documentation of the activities of people throughout time. They record human interests and serve as resources for students of many disciplines. In New Zealand there are artefacts made from Phormium tenax which are extremely important in terms of providing a record of early New Zealand life and links to our past as both artistic and cultural symbols: they present an insight into the many faceted nature of early Maori culture. However there are some which are clearly in need of preservative treatment. Others may need care in the future for inevitably they are, or will be, subject to degradation during storage, when on display and during cleaning and refurbishing. Conservators, who embark occasionally on restorative treatments designed to reverse or arrest the symptoms of degradation, have begun to address the causes and future fundamental affects of their procedures. However there have been few scientific studies of the properties of the fibres and, therefore, there is little information to help the conservators in their tasks. This study has a twofold purpose. The first aim is to provide a short survey of the literature on Phormium and relate it to other lignocellulosic fibres. The emphasis in the survey is to put the conservation problem in context and to point to those technical articles which may be relevant to someone dealing with ancient materials. Secondly there is a practical study of the impact of heating the fibres in the absence and presence of oxygen and in water. These two agencies are ones which are directly relevant to the conservator.

De las necesidades nacen las ideas, estas necesidades requieren soluciones que la mayoría de las veces son determinadas por medio de un plan de acción para una mejora continua, esto es, un proyecto de mejoramiento. En el ámbito textil existen muchas de éstas posibilidades de mejora; una de ellas está enfocada al proceso tintóreo en sus diferentes modalidades. El presente proyecto toma como objeto de mejora el replanteamiento del proceso tintóreo para la fibra de algodón hilada y tejida; proponiendo como principal objetivo el de mejorar las condiciones de transferencia de masa en éste proceso, garantizando así la obtención de un producto que reúna las condiciones exigidas por los consumidores. Para lograr éste objetivo se realizará un análisis teórico del proceso tintóreo, de la materia prima y del color, tomando en cuenta para cada uno de ellos sus principales características

La globalización y los nuevos paradigmas tecnológicos y organizacionales, intensivos en conocimientos e información, han aumentado las presiones competitivas. Nuevas tendencias se presentan en el mundo de los negocios, la integración de los grandes mercados, la rápida evolución tecnológica y el aumento de los niveles de competencia, presentan un entorno económico muy dinámico, donde sólo tienen posibilidades de sostener sus posiciones en el mercado aquellas empresas que hayan desarrollado una serie de ventajas competitivas. El imperativo de ser competitivo no es sólo para crecer e internacionalizarse, sino también para consolidar, defender y sobrevivir en los mercados domésticos. Los principales competidores en los mercados internos no son ya las empresas del propio país, sino las que provienen de otras naciones y que operan, muchas veces, a escala mundial. Las empresas cambian y serán más competitivas una vez que sean resueltas las graves limitaciones que provienen del entorno en el que desenvuelven sus actividades, donde las políticas públicas juegan un papel fundamental, y también cuando cambie el paradigma y las prácticas gerenciales, predominantes especialmente en la pequeña y mediana empresa (PYME). En consecuencia, es necesario, por un lado, cambiar las condiciones del entorno de las empresas, y por otro, que las empresas generen culturas organizacionales capaces de adaptarse y dar respuesta a las condiciones cambiantes y dinámicas del entorno. Para Bolivia, la influencia de la globalización y las presiones competitivas que generan deben resaltar la necesidad de un profundo cambio en la forma de competir en los mercados locales e internacionales. En un mundo más complejo y más exigente en cuanto a la calidad de productos y servicios y la protección del medio ambiente, el desafío, es sin duda, establecer y ejecutar acciones concretadas entre el Estado y el sector privado, para modificar profundamente las cusas que originaron la situación actual y generar las condiciones necesarias para mejorar la productividad y competitividad nacional.

Dissertation--Philosophie--Köln--Universität Köln, 2003. / Bibliogr. p. 121-134.