Abstract Problem: CSR appears frequently in various kinds of reports of different corporations. However, managers are confused about how to practice CSR strategically. Little is known about consumers’ awareness of CSR and how consumers react toward socially responsible corporations and their products. The cosmetic industry has been criticized a lot on CSR because of unethical and unsustainable business activities. Renowned companies in the cosmetic industry are working on different CSR initiatives, but no single study has been done on CSR and its impact on consumer behavior in the cosmetic industry. It is of critical importance to investigate consumers’ awareness of CSR, and to explore consumers’ attitudes and tendency of purchase behavior toward CSR in the cosmetic industry. Purpose: The purpose of the thesis is to investigate consumers’ awareness of CSR in the cosmetic industry and channels consumers get CSR information from. Furthermore, the aim is to investigate consumers’ attitudes on different CSR activities and how consumers’ purchasing behaviors are affected by these CSR activities. Theoretical perspective: The study combines stakeholder theory with theory on CSR’s impact on consumers’ attitudes and behavior. It refers to consumers as one important stakeholder group for a corporation. Method: A quantitative method is used in the study. Primary data of consumers’ awareness of CSR, consumers’ attitudes and tendency of purchasing behavior were collected through an online questionnaire. The results of the questionnaire were analyzed and interpreted. Conclusions: Consumers get CSR information of the cosmetic industry from different channels. Consumers’ CSR information about the cosmetic industry is between “poor” and “average”. They expect cosmetic companies to communicate more about CSR with the public. CSR is not an important factor that influences consumers’ purchase decision. However, consumers are willing to pay more for cosmetic products made in socially responsible ways. Consumers believe it is important that cosmetic companies fulfill their legal and ethical responsibilities, but they do not ask cosmetic companies to be philanthropically responsible.

yes / The Body Shop’s business has been an entrepreneurial enterprise of remarkable success. Its core lies on the principle, pioneered by founder Anita Roddick, that ‘(…) the business of business should not be just about money, it should be about responsibility.’ The company is the symbol of the 1970’s corporate social responsibility (CSR) revolution.

Background: Ethical consumerism is no longer a niche market and consumers are increasingly aware of the power they have when purchasing ethical and believe they can make a change. Most corporations have realized the importance of being ethical and incorporate it into their business strategies. Therefore, it is important to study consumers’ ethical purchasing patterns and which factors affect their intentions to purchase. Purpose: The purpose of this thesis was to test which of the following factors: social media, attitude, altruism, environmental knowledge, and financial factors, has a positive influence on female millennials, in Jönköping, purchasing intention towards cruelty-free cosmetic products. Method: This study was based on a conceptual framework which intended to test the most relevant constructs influencing ethical purchase intention, as proposed by previous researchers and theory. Hence, this paper follows a deductive approach which used quantitative methods to fulfil the purpose of this explanatory research. The data was gathered through a survey answered by 108 female millennials regarding their purchasing of cosmetics. Conclusion:   Both factors, attitude and environmental knowledge had a direct positive effect on consumers purchase intention towards cruelty-free cosmetics. The study provides empirical support for an indirect effect of altruism on purchase intention since the analysis showed that altruism had a direct effect on attitude. However, social media and financial constructs did not show any significant support for its positive effect on purchase intention in the empirical findings in this study.

Purpose This thesis aims to provide guidelines for cosmetic companies on how to use social media in times of crisis. Background In today’s society, cosmetic companies can face crises that can vary according to their level of impact and their level of controllability. These crises can go viral and reach a huge amount of stakeholders since social media can take on many different forms such as Facebook, Twitter, and YouTube. It is important to know how to manage these different com-   munication tools and it is even more crucial in times of crisis. However, social media and the cosmetic industry have not been combined in previous studies. Therefore, it is beneficial for cosmetic companies to have guidelines on how to use social media in times of crisis. Method The method is based on an inductive approach. Benchmarking case studies reflect crises that occurred in industries other than the cosmetic industry. The findings from the case studies are then complemented with a chosen company representative from the cosmetic industry. Finally, a semi-structured interview has been conducted to balance the research and add new valuable information to the investigation. Conclusion Based on the results of the analysis, the authors of the thesis have been able to provide guidelines to cosmetic companies on how to use social media in times of crisis. These guidelines are divided into two parts: the first part advises guidelines to follow while the second part recommends factors to avoid on social media.

The main aim of the diploma thesis is a detailed desciption of the cosmetic industry in the Czech republic. Development of market shares of the most significant local cosmetic brands in sales value and sales volume during time period from November 2006 to December 2008 is used as a key source of data. The latter target is a specification of adidas' brand positioning and its marketing strategy in comparision with competition, consumers'preferences and purchase habits.

O crescimento da conscientização ambiental pela sociedade acarretou na necessidade de se produzir bens de consumo e serviços de maneira mais racional e harmônica com o meio ambiente e, dentro deste cenário, novas técnicas ambientais surgiram, tendo a metodologia de Avaliação de Ciclo de Vida (ACV) obtido destaque, uma vez que ela pode ser utilizada por empresas como uma ferramenta de suporte de decisão ambiental, a partir de indicadores ambientais relevantes e caracterizando-se como uma oportunidade competitiva para diversos setores da economia. Na busca por uma oportunidade de diferenciação, destacam-se as indústrias cosméticas que possuem a necessidade de apresentar novidades e podem, com a aplicação da metodologia de ACV, desenvolver produtos mais sustentáveis. Os produtos cosméticos mais consumidos pela população são os sabonetes, barra e líquido, que podem, em seus processos de fabricação, privilegiar o uso de ingredientes de origem vegetal e utilizar o apelo de serem produtos ecologicamente corretos, porém um estudo mais detalhado de todos os seus processos, pode incluir o consumo de alguns materiais de origem não renovável e o próprio uso do sabonete, no banho, pode desclassificá-lo do apelo de ecologicamente correto. Sendo assim, neste trabalho, buscou-se a aplicação da ferramenta de ACV na gestão da cadeia de dois sabonetes cosméticos, barra e líquido, permitindo a identificação das suas etapas críticas e avaliação dos seus efeitos ambientais, realizando uma comparação ambiental entre seus resultados para a escolha de qual sabonete é menos impactante para o meio ambiente. Foi realizado um estudo de caso numa empresa cosmética fabricante dos sabonetes em barra e líquido e foram avaliados os processos de produção nos fornecedores das matérias-primas desses sabonetes, a sua etapa de uso no banho e o processo de descarte das embalagens desses sabonetes. O método RECIPE 2008 foi utilizado como metodologia de AICV e, na comparação ambiental dos dois sabonetes, foi possível concluir que o sabonete líquido possui impacto global menor que o sabonete em barra. As categorias de impacto Mudanças climáticas e Depleção fóssil foram as mais significativas para ambos os sabonetes e a Transformação da terra ou Uso do Solo foi significativa apenas para o sabonete em barra. / The society´s environmental awareness growth resulted in a need to produce consumer goods and services in a more rational and harmonious way with the environment and, within this scenario, new environmental techniques have emerged, and the methodology of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA ) achieved prominence, since it can be used by companies as a tool for decision support environment, from environmental relevant indicators and characterized as a competitive opportunity for diverse sectors of economy. In search of an opportunity for differentiation, there are the cosmetic industries that have the need to present news and may, with the application of LCA methodology, develop more sustainable products. The cosmetic products more consumed are the soap, bar and liquid, which may in its manufacturing processes, favoring the use of plant ingredients and use the appeal of being environmentally friendly products, but a more detailed study of all its processes, may include the use of some non-renewable source materials and the use of soap in the bath, may disqualify it from the eco-friendly appeal. Therefore, in this study, sought it the application of LCA tool chain management of two cosmetic soaps, bar and liquid, allowing the identification of critical steps and their assessment of their environmental effects, performing an environmental comparison between the results for the choice of which soap is less harmful to the environment. It was conducted a case study in a cosmetic company manufacturer of bar soaps and liquid and were evaluated the production processes in the suppliers of raw materials soaps, its use in the bath step process and the packaging dispose of these soaps. Through this model, it was possible to identify the most critical stages of manufacturing processes, to observe the impact that the stage of use of cosmetic soap in the shower and compare the differentiation of impact that the type of packaging promotes in a life cycle assessment\' study. The RECIPE 2008 was used as the LCIA methodology and at the environmental comparison of the two soaps, it was possible to conclude that the liquid soap had less over-all impact than the bar soap. The impact categories like Climate change and Fossil depletion were the most significant for both soaps and the Transformation of land or Land use was significant only for the bar soap.

L’utilisation de technologies d’extraction est cruciale dans l’industrie cosmétique. Cette étape de procédé consomme beaucoup d’énergie et de grandes quantités de matières premières. De plus, les solvants utilisés ne sont pas tous anodins, et certains sont issus de produits pétroliers. Afin de mieux préserver l’environnement et la santé humaine, il faut trouver des alternatives aux solvants et aux méthodes d’extractions conventionnelles. Pour cela, nous avons utilisé l’eau comme solvant et des technologies innovantes pour créer de nouvelles méthodes. Les travaux présentés dans cette thèse font tout d’abord un état de l’art des méthodes d’extractions utilisant l’eau comme solvant. L’ensemble de ces méthodes très anciennes, comme récentes, ont toutes leurs spécificités en termes de matrices et de molécules extraites. Puis nous nous sommes intéressés à une méthode ancienne qu’est l’hydrodistillation. L’extraction et la séparation simultanée des composés hydrosolubles et volatiles des feuilles de boldo (Peumus boldus, Mol.) est ensuite effectuée à l’aide des micro-ondes. L’optimisation des paramètres ont ensuite aboutis sur un scale-up à l’échelle pilote. L’intensification et la mise en continu de l’extraction des feuilles de boldo assisté par ultrasons sont ensuite explorés. Puis, nous étudions une méthode en cours de maturation avec l’assistance des tensioactifs pour l’extraction de composés hydrophiles et hydrophobes du romarin (Rosmarinus officinalis L.) dans l’eau. Enfin, nous avons exploré une méthode d’extraction encore en R&D. Elle utilise uniquement l’eau pour obtenir des composés hydrophobes de l’écorce d’orange douce ( Citrus sinensis L.) à l’aide d’un appareil micro-ondes pour atteindre un état subcritique. / The use of innovative extraction technologies is of outmost importance in the cosmetic industry. This process step is consuming large amounts of energy and materials. Furthermore, some solvents used are not benign. Some of them are from oil products. In order to better preserve the environment and human health, we must find alternatives to solvents and conventional extraction methods. To pursue this goal, we will use water as solvent and innovative technologies to create new extraction methods of natural products. The work presented in this thesis first establishes a review of extraction methods. All those methods, old as well as new ones, are specific in terms of target matrix or extracted molecules. Then, we focused on a mature extraction method: hydrodistillation. The simultaneous extraction and separation of water soluble compounds as well as volatile compounds from boldo leaves (Peumus boldus, Mol.), is undertaken with the help of microwaves. The parameters optimization leads to a pilot scale-up. The intensification and continuous mode transition of the ultrasound assisted extraction of boldo leaves is then studied. Afterwards, we studied the maturing method of surfactant addition to water. This is in order to extract hydrophilic and hydrophobic compounds of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L.). Finally, we explored an extraction method still in R&D. This method use only water in order to extract hydrophobic compounds of sweet orange peels ( Citrus sinensis L.) with a microwave device.

O crescimento da conscientização ambiental pela sociedade acarretou na necessidade de se produzir bens de consumo e serviços de maneira mais racional e harmônica com o meio ambiente e, dentro deste cenário, novas técnicas ambientais surgiram, tendo a metodologia de Avaliação de Ciclo de Vida (ACV) obtido destaque, uma vez que ela pode ser utilizada por empresas como uma ferramenta de suporte de decisão ambiental, a partir de indicadores ambientais relevantes e caracterizando-se como uma oportunidade competitiva para diversos setores da economia. Na busca por uma oportunidade de diferenciação, destacam-se as indústrias cosméticas que possuem a necessidade de apresentar novidades e podem, com a aplicação da metodologia de ACV, desenvolver produtos mais sustentáveis. Os produtos cosméticos mais consumidos pela população são os sabonetes, barra e líquido, que podem, em seus processos de fabricação, privilegiar o uso de ingredientes de origem vegetal e utilizar o apelo de serem produtos ecologicamente corretos, porém um estudo mais detalhado de todos os seus processos, pode incluir o consumo de alguns materiais de origem não renovável e o próprio uso do sabonete, no banho, pode desclassificá-lo do apelo de ecologicamente correto. Sendo assim, neste trabalho, buscou-se a aplicação da ferramenta de ACV na gestão da cadeia de dois sabonetes cosméticos, barra e líquido, permitindo a identificação das suas etapas críticas e avaliação dos seus efeitos ambientais, realizando uma comparação ambiental entre seus resultados para a escolha de qual sabonete é menos impactante para o meio ambiente. Foi realizado um estudo de caso numa empresa cosmética fabricante dos sabonetes em barra e líquido e foram avaliados os processos de produção nos fornecedores das matérias-primas desses sabonetes, a sua etapa de uso no banho e o processo de descarte das embalagens desses sabonetes. O método RECIPE 2008 foi utilizado como metodologia de AICV e, na comparação ambiental dos dois sabonetes, foi possível concluir que o sabonete líquido possui impacto global menor que o sabonete em barra. As categorias de impacto Mudanças climáticas e Depleção fóssil foram as mais significativas para ambos os sabonetes e a Transformação da terra ou Uso do Solo foi significativa apenas para o sabonete em barra. / The society´s environmental awareness growth resulted in a need to produce consumer goods and services in a more rational and harmonious way with the environment and, within this scenario, new environmental techniques have emerged, and the methodology of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA ) achieved prominence, since it can be used by companies as a tool for decision support environment, from environmental relevant indicators and characterized as a competitive opportunity for diverse sectors of economy. In search of an opportunity for differentiation, there are the cosmetic industries that have the need to present news and may, with the application of LCA methodology, develop more sustainable products. The cosmetic products more consumed are the soap, bar and liquid, which may in its manufacturing processes, favoring the use of plant ingredients and use the appeal of being environmentally friendly products, but a more detailed study of all its processes, may include the use of some non-renewable source materials and the use of soap in the bath, may disqualify it from the eco-friendly appeal. Therefore, in this study, sought it the application of LCA tool chain management of two cosmetic soaps, bar and liquid, allowing the identification of critical steps and their assessment of their environmental effects, performing an environmental comparison between the results for the choice of which soap is less harmful to the environment. It was conducted a case study in a cosmetic company manufacturer of bar soaps and liquid and were evaluated the production processes in the suppliers of raw materials soaps, its use in the bath step process and the packaging dispose of these soaps. Through this model, it was possible to identify the most critical stages of manufacturing processes, to observe the impact that the stage of use of cosmetic soap in the shower and compare the differentiation of impact that the type of packaging promotes in a life cycle assessment\' study. The RECIPE 2008 was used as the LCIA methodology and at the environmental comparison of the two soaps, it was possible to conclude that the liquid soap had less over-all impact than the bar soap. The impact categories like Climate change and Fossil depletion were the most significant for both soaps and the Transformation of land or Land use was significant only for the bar soap.

La croissance démographique, la consommation incontrôlée des ressources naturelles ainsi que l’activité industrielle jouent un rôle déterminant dans la dégradation de l'environnement mondial. A ce sujet et en se basant sur le concept que les consommateurs partagent la responsabilité de la pollution et de l'épuisement des ressources et leur coût, la mise en oeuvre des ressources renouvelables dans les processus industriels apparait comme une clé décisive. La renouvelabilité, la recyclabilité, la durabilité, la biodégradabilité sont les concepts de base sur lesquels nous pouvons compter pour protéger la nature et l’environnement. Dans ce contexte, une nouvelle approche de la bioraffinage a été développée dans cette thèse, elle a été appliquée à cinq espèces appartenant à 3 familles différentes (Foeniculum vulagre, Cuminum cyminum and Carum carvi (Apiaceae), Salvia hispania (Lamiaceae) et Amaranthus cruentus (Amaranthaceae)). Ces espèces partagent une caractéristique commune, elles peuvent être définies comme Aroma Tincto Oleo Crops (ATOC) puisqu’elles sont une source d'huile végétale et d'huile essentielle (ou de colorant). Notre objectif est donc de déterminer la faisabilité biologique et technologique de l'application du concept ATOC-bioraffinage basé sur le développement, l'optimisation et la production de nouveaux produits biologiques, des nouvelles molécules biosourcées et d'autres technologies innovantes. Notre étude met l'accent sur l'évaluation de divers paramètres influençant le rendement et la qualité de l’huile dans les graines d'ATOC, y compris leurs origines géographiques et le procédé d'extraction, et leur impact sur l'activité biologique des extraits de résidus. La valorisation des huiles pour des applications dans l’industrie cosmétique a été realisée en les utilisant comme (i) additifs dans des formulations de crème hydratante. De plus, l’utilité du tourteau d'extraction comme (ii) substrat pour la fabrication d'agromatériaux par thermopressage et comme (iii) un ingrédient dans des formulations de pain de blé entier a été examinée. / In an age where the risk of environmental degradation have become more apparent due to a combination of several factors including the sheer rise of world population, consumption, industrial activity, etc. With regard to this and since the concept that consumers share responsibility for pollution and resources depletion and their cost has been increasingly believed, the implementation of renewable resources in industrial processes could be a decisive key. Renewability, recyclability, sustainability, biodegradability are the basic concepts on which we can rely to make a difference in the environment today and tomorrow. In this context, a new biorefinery approach was developed in this thesis and applied to five plant species belonging to 3 different plant families (Foeniculum vulagre, Cuminum cyminum and Carum carvi (Apiaceae family), Salvia hispania (Lamiaceae family) and Amaranthus cruentus (Amaranthaceae family). These species share a common characteristic, they can be defined as Aroma Tincto Oleo Crops (ATOC) as they are a source of both vegetable oil and essential oil or color. Our aim is thus to determine the biological and technological feasibility of application of ATOC-biorefinery concept based on the development, optimization and production of new bio-based products and other innovative technologies. Our study focus on the evaluation of major various parameters influencing oil’s yield and quality in ATOC seeds including their geographic origins and extraction process, and their impact on biological activity of residues extracts. The feasability of valorization of oils as (i) additive in cosmetic formulas, and of extraction cake as (ii) substrate for agromaterial manufacturing by thermopressing or as (iii) ingredient in whole wheat bread formulations were also stated.

Cette thèse étudie les conditions de travail des femmes en France afin de rendre compte de la difficulté à envisager puis établir des liens entre ces conditions et le développement de certains cancers. Ceci implique de s’intéresser à la façon dont les différences biologiques et culturelles servent d’argument pour expliquer les particularités féminines face au cancer. Ainsi, à partir d’une approche analytique de la division sexuelle du travail cette recherche vise à comprendre pourquoi l’hypothèse de l’existence des atteintes cancérogènes à la santé au travail ne serait plausible que pour expliquer l’origine des cancers dont souffrent des hommes. A partir de quels éléments invalide-t-on l’hypothèse d’une étiologie professionnelle dans l’explication des cancers dont souffrent des femmes ? S’appuie-t-on sur des différences concrètes, empiriques et contextualisées ou assiste-t-on plutôt à un processus de différenciation construit par un jeu de mise en visibilisation/invisibilisation du travail des hommes et des femmes ?Cette thèse soutient que les femmes sont concernées par un phénomène d’invisibilisation des atteintes cancérogènes à leur santé au travail. Les processus de différenciation des hommes et des femmes se (re)produisent aux niveaux macro, méso et microsocial ; ils se situent au niveau de la construction de la connaissance, de la production des conditions pour la reconnaissance de la maladie professionnelle, au niveau des mobilisations sociales, ainsi qu’au niveau du rapport subjectif des travailleur-se-s au travail et aux risques. / This thesis investigates women’s working conditions in France to give an account of the difficulties of establishing links between those conditions and the development of certain cancers. This investigation implies getting familiar with the ways biological and cultural differences are being held as arguments to explain feminine particularities of cancers. Using a sexual division of labour approach, this research aims to understand why the hypothesis of carcinogenic harms to health in the workplace would only be plausible to explain men’s cancers. Which elements are used to undermine the professional etiology in the explication of women’s cancers? Are we taking into account concrete, empirical and contextualized differences or is it a differentiation process, constructed in a visibilization/invisibilization interplay of men’s and women’s work?This thesis claims that women are affected by an invisibilization phenomenon of the carcinogenic harms to their health in the workplace. The processes of differentiation between men and women are (re)producing themselves at macro, meso and microsocial levels; they are present in the construction of knowledge, in the production of conditions for recognition of the occupational disease, in social mobilisations and in the subjective relation between the individuals and their work and risks