Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Sherry J. Haar / The overarching goals of the project were to acknowledge both traditional and modern aspects of Turkish culture, inform designers and researchers of natural dye and screen printing methods, and advance the developing practices of sustainable design. Mixed methodologies of scientific and practice-based research guided the project. A collection of 25 prints inspired by the Anatolian region of Turkey were screen-printed with thickened natural dyes onto sustainable fibered fabrics. The research of traditional Turkish art and culture led to the inspirational concepts and brought the textile prints to fruition. Understanding the dyeing practices, regional traditions, and political rule of this nation informed the design process and directly influenced the composition and imagery of the designs. The final outcomes were exhibited at the Kansas State University student union art gallery. Research was conducted on the use of natural plant-based dyes madder, weld, and woad for screen-printing by determining the most effective thickener and thickening method. Thickening agents gum tragacanth and gum arabic were tested for fabric hand and the printed natural dyes were tested for colorfastness to light. Gum tragacanth at a ratio of .9875 g agent to 10 ml water emerged as the most smooth and pliable when evaluating fabric hand. Colorfastness to light was as expected for madder and woad with excellent to good fastness. Weld had an unexpectedly low rating indicating further study is needed. The developing practices of sustainable design were advanced as I used sustainable materials (natural dyes, natural gums, naturally fibered fabrics) and methods (hand screenprinting) throughout the project. The information from this project may be valuable to artisans to further develop their natural dye and screen-printing techniques; to researchers to provide a foundation for testing additional thickened dyes; and to industry professionals to modify their practices.

Submitted in fulfillment of the academic requirements for the degree of Master of Technology in Engineering: Chemical Engineering, Durban University of Technology. Durban. South Africa, 2015. / The textile industry consumes large volumes of water and in turn produces substantial quantities of polluted effluents. Approximately 30% of reactive dyes used during the textile processing remain unfixed on fibres and are responsible for the colouration in effluents. Various conventional methods are being used to treat textile effluent. However, the disadvantage of these methods is that total colour removal is not achieved and chemical by-products are introduced from the use of chemicals. The water quality produced therefore does not meet the requirement for textile reuse. Membrane based processes provide interesting possibilities of separating hydrolysed dye stuff and dyeing auxiliaries, thereby reducing colouration and COD content. They can be employed to treat reactive dye bath effluent to recover the salts and water for the purpose of reuse. This study aimed at integrating membrane processes into the reactive dye bath of a textile industry. The objectives were to determine the quality of permeate produced in terms of removal of organics, ascertain its reusability for dyeing, investigate the production rate in terms of permeate fluxes and finally to investigate the cleanability and flux recovery of the membranes. Three effluent samples were chosen for this study based on the dyeing recipe; Light shade, Medium shade and Dark shade. Ultrafiltration (UF) and Nanofiltration (NF) membrane processes were employed to treat the reactive dye bath effluents to recover the salts and water. Investigations were conducted firstly with UF as a pre-treatment to NF. Secondly, evaluations were carried out on the performance of two types of NF membranes (SR90 and NF90) in terms of permeate quality and fluxes for the investigated samples. The effect of cleaning on membrane performance was done. A reusability test was carried out on the permeate samples for dyeing. It was found that the use of UF as a pre-treatment yielded an increase in permeate of 5–25% of the NF fluxes and 90% in organics reduction for all treated samples, hence increasing the water recovery. High rejection of ˃90% by NF90 for COD, TOC and colour were obtained for all the treated samples. SR90 rejection was 80–90% for colour and ˃90% for COD and TOC. Salt recovery for NF90 was 60–90% and for SR90 was 40–50%. The reusability tests carried out showed that permeate recycled from NF90 can be used for any section in the textile industry including the most critical such as dyeing on light shades, while that from SR90 can be used for dyeing dark shades only. It was then concluded that membrane based processes can be integrated into the dye bath of the textile process for the purpose of reuse, thereby saving on the cost of chemicals (salts), reducing fresh water usage and reducing the extent of final effluent treatment.

Thesis (MSc)--Stellenbosch University, 2011. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Polymeric nanofibrous membranes that act as surfaces offer two compelling properties; they have extremely large surface areas that can be modified and they can offer multiple reactive sites depending on which polymer they were electrospun from. Combining nanofibrous surfaces such as these with photochromic dyes can give remarkable, light responsive materials. In this study, a terpolymer was electrospun and crosslinked (to impart insolubility to the material) to produce a nanofibrous mat that contained surface secondary-hydroxyl units and benzyl chloride units, from which monomers could grow using surface-initiated atom transfer polymerization (SI-ATRP). The surface was further fluorinated though the secondary-hydroxyl moieties to produce a hydrophobic crosslinked nanofibrous surface. n-Butyl acrylate and a photochromic spiropyran dye were copolymerized from the surface using SIATRP, in order to produce a surface that exhibited reversible adhesion towards a water droplet using ultraviolet and visible light as a stimulus to change between the two states. This in principle would allow the droplet to roll off and stick to the surface respectively. Although the surface displayed a colour change when switched, proving that the SI-ATRP had taken place, the droplet of water remained attached to the surface in both states. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Polimeriese nanovesel membrane wat dien as oppervlaktes bied twee aantreklike eienskappe; hulle het baie groot oppervlakareas wat gemodifiseer kan word en hulle bied veelvuldige reaktiewe punte, afhangende van die polimeer waarvan hulle ge-elektrospin is. Deur sulke nanovesel oppervlaktes met fotochromiese kleurstowwe te kombineer, kan uitstekende lig reagerende materiale verkry word. In hierdie studie is ‘n terpolimeer ge-elektrospin en daarna gekruisbind (om die materiaal onoplosbaar te maak) om ‘n nanovesel web te kry wat oppervlak sekondêre-hidroksiel en benzielchloried eenhede bevat. Monomere kan dan vanaf hierdie eenhede groei deur middel van oppervlak-geïnisieerde atoomoordrag polimerisasie (OI-AOPR). Die oppervlak was verder gefluorineer via die sekondêre-hidroksiel eenhede om ‘n hidrofobiese, gekruisbinde nanovesel oppervlak te vorm. n-Butielakrilaat en ‘n fotochromiese spiropiraan kleurstof is gekopolimeriseer vanaf die oppervlak deur middel van OI-AORP om sodoende ‘n oppervlak te skep wat omkeerbare adhesie van ‘n water druppel gee as ultraviolet en sigbare lig as stimulus gebruik word om tussen die twee toestande te wissel. In beginsel sal die water druppel vanaf die oppervlak kan afrol én daaraan vassit, afhangende van die toestand van die oppervlak. Alhoewel die oppervlak van kleur verander het met die wisseling tussen die twee toestande, wat as bewys dien dat OI-AORP wel plaasgevind het, het die druppel water bly vassit aan die oppervlak in beide toestande.

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Baigiamojo darbo tikslas – ištirti vilnos pluošto paviršiaus hidrofobiškumo įtaką dažiklių sorbcijai vilnos pluošte ir dažinių fizikinėms savybėms. Naujų antrachinoninių dažiklių RB 5-37 Mėlynojo ir RB 4-35 Žaliojo sintezė buvo atlikta Kauno Technologijos universitete, Organinės chemijos katedroje, prof. V. Mickevičiaus grupėje. Siekiant nustatyti, kokį pluoštą ir kokiomis sąlygomis intensyviausiai dažo naujieji dažikliai, atlikti parengiamieji tyrimai su multipluoštiniu audiniu (ISO 105 F10 DW), kurį sudaro vilna, poliakrilatas, poliesteris, poliamidas, medvilnė ir diacetatas. Bandymo metu buvo nustatyta, jog tiriamieji antrachinoniniai dažikliai intensyviausiai dažo vilną ir poliamidą. Tolimesni tyrimai atlikti naudojant standartinį vilnonį audinį (ISO 150/F – 1985 (E)). Siekiant įvertinti hidrofobinio paviršinio barjero įtaką dažiklių difuzijai jame, bandymai atlikti su standartiniu vilnos audiniu ir su audiniu, nuo kurio paviršiaus buvo pašalintas hidrofobinis sluoksnis. Vilnos pluošto ekstrakcija buvo atlikta naudojant metanolio ir chloroformo tirpiklių mišinį, Soksleto aparatu, 10 ciklų. Taip pat buvo atlikti dažymo kinetiniai tyrimai bei dažyto audinio pavienių siūlų mechaninių savybių tyrimai, t. y. vilnonio siūlo trūkimo jėga bei vilnonio siūlo trūkimo ištįsa, naudojantis dinamometru. Atlikus tyrimą su dviem naujai susintetintais dažikliais nustatyta, kad Žaliasis Dažiklis, kuris skyrėsi nuo Mėlynojo nitro funkcine grupe, intensyviau sorbavosi vilnos pluošte... [toliau žr. visą tekstą] / The aim of this work was to evaluate the effect of the hydrophobicity of wool fibre surface on the sorption of the dyes and on the physical properties of dyed wool fibre. New Anthraquinonic RB 5-37 Blue and Green RB 4-35 dyes synthesis was carried out by Professor V. Mickevičius group at Kaunas University of Technology, Department of Organic Chemistry. The multifiber fabric (ISO 105 F10 DW), composed of wool, polyacrylates, polyester, nylon, cotton and the diacetate was used in order to determine the fiber and the conditions under which the new dyes intensively dye. The dyeing results showed that new dyes wool fibers and polyamide dyed intensively. The standard wool fabric (ISO 150 / F - 1985 (E)) was used for further dyeing experiments. The standard wool fabric without pretreatment and wool fabric extracted with methanol and chloroform solvents mixture were used in order to evaluate hydrophobic wool surface barrier effect on dye diffusion in to wool fabric. It has also been done a kinetic study of dyeing process and dyed wool fiber single thread mechanical properties testing, i.e. breaking force and extension at break using a dynamometer. The investigation of the dyeing kinetic using two newly synthesized dyes showed that the Green dye which differs from the Blue by NO2 functional group, better penetrates into the wool fabric, irrespective of what was the composition of the dyeing solution. The data of equilibrium dye concentration indicates that independently of the... [to full text]

A novel series of near-infrared fluorescent contrast agents was developed and characterized. Their physicochemical and optical properties were measured. By altering functional groups of cyanine fluorophores, the selective targeting of endocrine glands, exocrine glands, cartilage and bone using NIR fluorescence to visualize the targeted tissue has been reported. These agents have high specificity for tissue targeting inherent to the chemical structure of the fluorophore. After a single low-dose intravenous injection these agents have high specificity for tissue targeting inherent to the chemical structure of the fluorophore. The results lay the foundation for future improvements in optical imaging in endocrine surgery, tissue engineering, joint surgery, and cartilage-specific drug development.

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Au cours de cette thèse, j’ai mis au point et validé une voie de synthèse inédite donnant accès à une nouvelle famille de chromophores oligo-péri-naphtyléniques. Notre approche repose sur le couplage de deux briques facilement synthétisables (l’une centrale, l’autre terminale), puis sur une réaction de cyclodéshydrogénation multiple en milieu fortement basique. Aisément fonctionnalisés ensuite par estérification à leurs extrémités, ces colorants présentent un comportement cristallin liquide. Nous avons ainsi réussi à élaborer des cristaux liquides colonnaires absorbant fortement les grandes longueurs d’onde de la lumière visible tout en présentant leur mésophase à température ambiante. / During this thesis, I worked out and validated a novel synthetic route to a new series of oligo-peri-naphthylenic chromophores. Our approach is based on the assembling of two easily accessible building blocks – one central, the other terminal – via a coupling reaction followed by a multiple cyclodehydrogenation in a strongly basic medium. Smoothly further functionalised by esterification at each end, these dyes display a liquid-crystalline behaviour. We succeeded in elaborating columnar liquid crystals that strongly absorb the long wavelengths of the visible light while displaying their mesophase at room temperature.