This thesis examines Flora Krauch’s use of Progressive Era social reform methods to develop and expand infants’ and children’s merchandise departments in American department stores and specialty shops. Krauch used the pages of the industry’s first trade journal, The Infants’ Department, to wage her battle against the commercialization of these departments, and to urge the use of mother education and child welfare as their foundation. At the turn of the twentieth century, retailers began to demonstrate their civic leadership in socially responsible ways. By 1916 independently owned department stores faced new forms of competition which led them to build alliances with individuals who highlighted the significance of scientific management methods and commercialization. The Retail Research Association and Harvard Business School spearheaded these merchandising shifts. The effects of these trends are apparent in children’s departments. To explore how Krauch rejected commercialization, this thesis analyzes all available newspaper and journal articles Krauch wrote from 1909 to 1940, as well as primary sources from the U.S. Children’s Bureau and Harvard Business School. Krauch was a leading force in the effort to challenge commercializing forces through the professionalization of women in retail buying and sales, and through the education of mothers about the health and safety of infants’ and children’s merchandise.

Denna studie undersöker vilka faktorer i grenen på babyleggings som kan komma att påverkapassformen. En marknadsundersökning visar att ett flertal leggings erhåller passformsproblem i grenen bak. Få studier har gjorts kring barnplagg och passform, därmed jämförs leggings från marknaden mot leggings konstruerade utifrån litteratur för att finna konstruktionsmässiga likheter och skillnader. Genom digitalisering av marknadens fysiska plagg kunde grenkurvorna tydligt jämföras mot litteraturens konstruktioner och tillsammans medavprovningar samt prototypframtagning kunde slutsatser dras. Resultatet visade på stora skillnader där marknadens plagg hade en bättre passform och anknytning till målgruppenskroppsutformning. Dock fanns passformsproblem i form av en nedåtdragande midjelinje bak och dragningar i sidan. Detta kunde knytas till en konstruktion med en djup grenkurva och stor lutning. Även en mindre lutad gren tillsammans med en grund kurva gav oönskadpassform. Resultatet visade även att grensträckan inte är en påverkande faktor, utan formplaceringen i grenkurvan. Studiens resultat applicerades och vidareutvecklade litteraturens konstruktion som mynnade ut i ett grundmönster. Konstruktionen kommer att vara till hjälp för företag som kan använda den i kommunikationen med leverantörer för att minska på prototypframtagningen. / This thesis investigates factors which may influence the fit of the back rise in baby leggings. Market research showed that a majority had issues regarding fit of the back rise. There’s no studies made regarding children´s clothes and fit, therefore leggings from the market has been compared to patterns in literature to find deviations and similarities. With digitalization of the market’s leggings the curvature of the back rise could be compared to those made from literature. Together with fittings and production of prototypes conclusions could be made. The result showed significant deviations where the market’s leggings overall obtained the most pleasing fit and body-to- pattern relationship. Fitting problems was found at the waistline back which created a concave line and pulling was found at the side seams. This was connected to a pattern with a deep curve and significantly tilted back rise. It was found that the curve depth and tilt of the back rise had a vast influence on the garment fit, rather than the length. The conclusions were used to create a basic pattern for baby leggings that companies can utilize in the communication with suppliers to minimize the number of prototypes.