One of the most enigmatic phenomena to explain in social and business sciences is the functioning and economic growth of organisations and national economies. This is testified by the several theoretical frameworks, which, with varying degrees of success, attempt to unravel the growth puzzle. This dissertation focuses on the network theory, with particular reference to small business growth in the contemporary competitive global economy. The primary focus is the isolation thesis which maintains that although small business growth is constrained by a number of factors, isolation rather than size is the key problem and that the answer lies in networking and clustering. Hypothesising that fraternal network is the most significant type of network for small business growth, the dissertation investigates the structural properties of networks in relation to the performance of the small clothing manufacturing enterprises (SCMEs) in the Durban Metropolitan Area (DMA). Combining qualitative and quantitative research approaches, descriptive network data and hermeneutic analyses, the dissertation argues that the growth and development of small business may be understood by the framework of relationships between the scopes of fraternal and factor networks, the medium of communication and the human factor. The dissertation empirically confirms the isolation thesis and the widely documented view that networks have positive impact on business performance although they could also be detrimental. The study finds that although clustering may be necessary it is certainly not a sufficient condition for inter-firm co-operation and joint action to a level that promotes individual firm performance and collective efficiency. The study argues that the widely documented poor performance of the clothing industry in the Durban Metropolis is, to a large extent, due to inadequate network relationships. The observed minimal network relationships among the sampled firms is largely the result of human factor decay manifesting as mistrust, selfishness, dishonesty, greed etc. Conceding that human factor decay is largely a consequence of the process of modernisation or the transition from Germeinschaft (Community) to Gesellschaft (Association), the dissertation maintains that human factor decay among the sampled SCMEs is exacerbated by the apartheid system, which undermined social and economic relationships. Of the three types of networks identified in the literature - factor, fraternal and communication networks - the study confirms the latter as the most significant to SCMEs in Durban. The study also confirms the view that the use of electronic networks or new information and communication technologies (ICTs) contributes significantly to economic performance. Although reverse causality is a possibility, the dissertation concludes that small firms are likely to be better off through increased electronic connectivity, as compared to face-to-face (FTF) interactions. By this finding and conclusion the study, on one hand, fails to confirm the hypothesis that fraternal networks are the most significant types of networks among the SCMEs in Durban. On the other hand, it confirms Castells' theory of a universal trend of social change towards a network society, a global informational economy and a culture of 'real virtuality'. The impact of ICTs use on the effectiveness and efficiency of networks, however, depends on the scope of networks but more importantly, on the human factor (HF) i.e., appropriate human personality traits, e.g., information management skills and knowledge, trust, honesty, reciprocity, loyalty and creativity. In the concluding chapter, the dissertation explores the policy implications of the findings and offers recommendations that could inform trade and industrial policy for small business growth and development through the network perspective. / Thesis (Ph.D.)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, 2004.

Clothing manufacturers and distributors in the current business climate need to become more flexible and willing to adapt to consumers' changing needs and preferences in order to satisfy the market (Kincade, 1995). Clothing consumers who have special needs, such as working women with physical disabilities, comprise a group who would benefit from research into specialized products focused on a small target market (Reich & Otten, 1991). However, research shows that consumers with physical disabilities do not want to be treated as a specialized group, but the same as any other consumer group (Freeman, Kaiser & Wingate, 1986). The concept of Universal Design, typically applied to spatial and product design, provides a framework within which an item of clothing could be produced to satisfy many consumers, regardless of their physical ability. If a universally-designed clothing product can be successfully produced and marketed to many types of consumers, potential benefits could exist for manufacturers, distributors and consumers. The dissertation topic originated from the researcher's questioning the lack of easily accessible ready-to-wear clothing for consumers with physical disabilities, and was based on preliminary conversations with a few working women who encountered difficulty finding business clothing that was both functional and visually appealing. Considerable needs assessment research had already been completed in the clothing/disability area using data collected from small samples of subjects with disabilities similar in nature, but none had extended the research to include the opinions of clothing manufacturers and distributors of end-use products. The researcher envisioned a study that would encompass all parties involved in decision-making processes for a clothing product. The qualitative research process employed multiple data collection and analysis strategies in two Phases. In Phase A, detailed information was obtained about the physical limitations, clothing needs and preferences, and clothing acquisition preferences from a group of nine working women with various upper body limitations. A prototype for an upper body garment suitable for working situations was developed and wear-tested with the original group, and with a group of working women (n=6) without any known physical limitations. The second part of the study, Phase B, consisted of semi-structured interviews with clothing industry personnel (n=6) relating to issues involved in manufacturing and distributing the prototype within the existing ready-to-wear system. A framework for manufacturing clothing for a specific target market was explored and revised in the study. The framework demonstrated the need for in-depth user information to generate ideas for the study, and included an industry feasibility component in order to assess not only consumer but also industry issues. Both the principles of Universal Design and a framework for systemic change in the current business methodology acted as guideposts at various steps of the process. Results indicated that (a) a clinical definition of disability is not needed to collect user information for clothing product development, rather a categorization of disability's effect on the body can be used; (b) working women with a variety of disabilities can have similar clothing needs and preferences; (c) Universal Design can be a successful strategy for clothing product development; (d) constricting styles and fastenings present the greatest clothing problems regardless of subjects' disabilities; (e) a universally-designed clothing product can be visually appealing, functional, and easily manufactured within the existing clothing system; (f) marketing the product will prove to be the most challenging aspect of putting this product into the ready-to-wear system; and (g) although other distribution channels exist, consumers with physical disabilities prefer to use existing brick-and-mortar retail stores to shop for their clothing. The researcher concluded that although the product development process used in this study was successful, more work could be done with clothing manufacturers and distributors to encourage them to consider this target market, and to use Universal Design as a strategy that can be applicable to all consumers, regardless of their physical abilities. / Ph. D.

Thesis (M.Com. (Economics))--North-West University, Vaal Triangle Campus, 2005.

This dissertation studies the role of clothing manufacturing co-operatives in job creation and poverty alleviation in Sharpeville. Ttie study focuses on three areas, namely, the theories of unemployment, poverty and clothing manufacturing, the state of unemployment and poverty in Sharpeville and clothing manufacturing co-operatives as one of the contributors to the solution to unemployment and poverty. Unemployment is identified, among others, as a major determinant of poverty; therefore, the main component of any policy aimed at eradicating poverty should focus on employment creation. The clothing industry being the most labour-intensive industry in South Africa with low capital entry requirement creates opportunities for entrepreneurially driven employment creation in Sharpeville. The approach in the dissertation was to define and measure unemployment and poverty and determine the profile of the poor in Sharpeville. This is done by employing household-level indicators. For measuring poverty the following tools are used: the Household Subsistence Level (HSL) as poverty line, the, headcount index, the poverty gap and the dependency ratio. Unemployment is also used to determine poverty levels. The dissertation shows that Sharpeville experiences high unemployment rates and low levels of poverty based on the indicators employed. Compared to Bophelong, most indicators (except for unemployment) show that Sharpeville is better off. Comparing the operations of clothing businesses in Sharpeville and Mitchell's Plain, the dissertation shows that clothing manufacturing has the potential to create job opportunities in Sharpeville if assistance could be offered. Assuming that assistance is offered to form clothing manufacturing cooperatives. The dissertation shows that 374 jobs could be created and that the unemployment rate could decrease from 59.2 percent to 52.9 percent. The expenditure of the whole population of Sharpeville on clothing (also considering nearby communities) shows a potential big market for clothing manufacturing co-operatives in the township. At an average income of R600 per month the impact will be that the poverty rate will be reduced from 43.1 percent to 40.8 percent and at an average income of R1 500 the impact will be that the poverty rate decrease from 43.1 percent to 39.1 percent. Finally, the dissertation concludes that clothing manufacturing co-operatives can indeed create job opportunities and alleviate poverty, but assistance from different structures is needed. The dissertation suggests major support systems like involvement by industry and training institutions, the formation of associations working directly with operators, the addressing of the problem of geographic location of service providers and government involvement. / Thesis (M.Com. (Economics))--North-West University, Vaal Triangle Campus, 2005.

This dissertation studies the role of clothing manufacturing co-operatives in job creation and poverty alleviation in Sharpeville. Ttie study focuses on three areas, namely, the theories of unemployment, poverty and clothing manufacturing, the state of unemployment and poverty in Sharpeville and clothing manufacturing co-operatives as one of the contributors to the solution to unemployment and poverty. Unemployment is identified, among others, as a major determinant of poverty; therefore, the main component of any policy aimed at eradicating poverty should focus on employment creation. The clothing industry being the most labour-intensive industry in South Africa with low capital entry requirement creates opportunities for entrepreneurially driven employment creation in Sharpeville. The approach in the dissertation was to define and measure unemployment and poverty and determine the profile of the poor in Sharpeville. This is done by employing household-level indicators. For measuring poverty the following tools are used: the Household Subsistence Level (HSL) as poverty line, the, headcount index, the poverty gap and the dependency ratio. Unemployment is also used to determine poverty levels. The dissertation shows that Sharpeville experiences high unemployment rates and low levels of poverty based on the indicators employed. Compared to Bophelong, most indicators (except for unemployment) show that Sharpeville is better off. Comparing the operations of clothing businesses in Sharpeville and Mitchell's Plain, the dissertation shows that clothing manufacturing has the potential to create job opportunities in Sharpeville if assistance could be offered. Assuming that assistance is offered to form clothing manufacturing cooperatives. The dissertation shows that 374 jobs could be created and that the unemployment rate could decrease from 59.2 percent to 52.9 percent. The expenditure of the whole population of Sharpeville on clothing (also considering nearby communities) shows a potential big market for clothing manufacturing co-operatives in the township. At an average income of R600 per month the impact will be that the poverty rate will be reduced from 43.1 percent to 40.8 percent and at an average income of R1 500 the impact will be that the poverty rate decrease from 43.1 percent to 39.1 percent. Finally, the dissertation concludes that clothing manufacturing co-operatives can indeed create job opportunities and alleviate poverty, but assistance from different structures is needed. The dissertation suggests major support systems like involvement by industry and training institutions, the formation of associations working directly with operators, the addressing of the problem of geographic location of service providers and government involvement. / Thesis (M.Com. (Economics))--North-West University, Vaal Triangle Campus, 2005.

This thesis brings together a coherent and inter-linked body of research published between 2000 and 2009 on clothing manufacturing; a sector that could be labelled ‘mature’ in its phase of economic development in Western economies. It investigates why in recent decades, despite notable early resilience the clothing industry within the West Midlands Region in the UK has declined markedly, placing this decline in the context of the picture nationally and internationally. It provides an in-depth analysis of the how the sector is placed to adapt, reverse decline and enhance its competitiveness, conceptualising firm behaviour in respect of attitudes to growth and change. Finally, it prescribes strategies and actions for the sustainability of such mature manufacturing sectors within modern growth-led economies. In doing so it recognises the crucial role played by government institutions at all scales in facilitating this process.

Esta pesquisa qualitativa buscou a realidade ambiental da produção industrial de malharias selecionadas na região de Monte Sião, em Minas Gerais, quanto a maior ou menor presença de preocupações de produção mais limpa, bem como sua visão em termos de redução do uso de água, de energia, e, especialmente, de resíduos sólidos têxteis. Justificou-se pelas preocupações relacionadas ao meio ambiente e sua preservação que implicam em questões cada vez mais pertinentes e abordadas nos estudos relacionados ao vestuário de moda, tal como o design que está inteiramente conectado às mudanças cotidianas, e interessado na redução de materiais. É neste contexto que se encontra a produção mais limpa (P+L), almejando agregar melhorias no processo ou no produto, buscando soluções por meio da apresentação de alguns processos que norteiam estes caminhos. Em vista disso, foi elaborada uma revisão da literatura especializada em têxtil, moda e cenários ambientais, e foi realizada uma investigação de campo baseada em métodos qualitativos exploratório de pesquisa, utilizando-se de observações diretas e entrevistas semiestruturadas efetuadas junto às malharias. Alguns resultados da investigação sugerem que a realidade ambiental da produção industrial de malharias tenha uma aproximação com a produção mais limpa, sobretudo, em relação ao tratamento dado aos resíduos sólidos têxteis. Na abordagem da pesquisa de campo observaram-se diferenças quanto às ações voltadas para a minimização de água, energia, e a geração de resíduos sólidos têxteis, ao passo que evidenciaram uma preocupação e tratamentos aos mesmos, indicando de certa forma que existe um equilíbrio quanto ao direcionamento do resíduo têxtil e a dedicação no tratamento, sendo um importante ponto de cuidado do polo industrial / This qualitative research sought the environmental reality of some selected industrial knitting production in the region of Monte Sião, in Minas Gerais, regarding the greater or lesser presence of \"cleaner production\" concerns, as well as its vision in terms of reduction of water use, energy, and especially solid textile waste. It has been justified by the environmental concerns and their preservation that imply issues increasingly relevant and addressed in studies related to fashion clothing, such as design that is fully connected to everyday changes, and interested in reducing materials. Cleaner production is found in this context, aiming to add improvements in the process or product, seeking solutions through the presentation of some processes that guide these paths. A review of the literature on textiles, fashion and environmental scenarios and a field research were carried out based on qualitative exploratory research methods, using direct observations and semi-structured interviews accomplished on-site. Some research results suggest that the environmental reality of the industrial production of knitting products is in line with cleaner production, especially in relation to the treatment of solid textile waste. In the field research approach, differences were observed regarding actions aimed at minimizing water, energy, and solid textile waste generation, while showing them a concern and treatments, indicating in a certain way that there is a balance to the direction of the textile waste and the dedication in the treatment, being an important point of care of the industrial pole

Esta pesquisa qualitativa buscou a realidade ambiental da produção industrial de malharias selecionadas na região de Monte Sião, em Minas Gerais, quanto a maior ou menor presença de preocupações de produção mais limpa, bem como sua visão em termos de redução do uso de água, de energia, e, especialmente, de resíduos sólidos têxteis. Justificou-se pelas preocupações relacionadas ao meio ambiente e sua preservação que implicam em questões cada vez mais pertinentes e abordadas nos estudos relacionados ao vestuário de moda, tal como o design que está inteiramente conectado às mudanças cotidianas, e interessado na redução de materiais. É neste contexto que se encontra a produção mais limpa (P+L), almejando agregar melhorias no processo ou no produto, buscando soluções por meio da apresentação de alguns processos que norteiam estes caminhos. Em vista disso, foi elaborada uma revisão da literatura especializada em têxtil, moda e cenários ambientais, e foi realizada uma investigação de campo baseada em métodos qualitativos exploratório de pesquisa, utilizando-se de observações diretas e entrevistas semiestruturadas efetuadas junto às malharias. Alguns resultados da investigação sugerem que a realidade ambiental da produção industrial de malharias tenha uma aproximação com a produção mais limpa, sobretudo, em relação ao tratamento dado aos resíduos sólidos têxteis. Na abordagem da pesquisa de campo observaram-se diferenças quanto às ações voltadas para a minimização de água, energia, e a geração de resíduos sólidos têxteis, ao passo que evidenciaram uma preocupação e tratamentos aos mesmos, indicando de certa forma que existe um equilíbrio quanto ao direcionamento do resíduo têxtil e a dedicação no tratamento, sendo um importante ponto de cuidado do polo industrial / This qualitative research sought the environmental reality of some selected industrial knitting production in the region of Monte Sião, in Minas Gerais, regarding the greater or lesser presence of \"cleaner production\" concerns, as well as its vision in terms of reduction of water use, energy, and especially solid textile waste. It has been justified by the environmental concerns and their preservation that imply issues increasingly relevant and addressed in studies related to fashion clothing, such as design that is fully connected to everyday changes, and interested in reducing materials. Cleaner production is found in this context, aiming to add improvements in the process or product, seeking solutions through the presentation of some processes that guide these paths. A review of the literature on textiles, fashion and environmental scenarios and a field research were carried out based on qualitative exploratory research methods, using direct observations and semi-structured interviews accomplished on-site. Some research results suggest that the environmental reality of the industrial production of knitting products is in line with cleaner production, especially in relation to the treatment of solid textile waste. In the field research approach, differences were observed regarding actions aimed at minimizing water, energy, and solid textile waste generation, while showing them a concern and treatments, indicating in a certain way that there is a balance to the direction of the textile waste and the dedication in the treatment, being an important point of care of the industrial pole