Les plages du littoral varois se sont progressivement réduites depuis la seconde moitié du XXème siècle et ne survivent le plus souvent que grâce à de coûteux rechargements. Dans ce contexte, la réponse du milieu et l’intensité du risque dépendent d’abord du soutien sédimentaire apporté par les fleuves côtiers. Cette étude a ainsi pour but de quantifier les apports terrigènes du Gapeau à son embouchure et ses plages limitrophes dans la rade d’Hyères durant des crues et tempêtes. Nous avons mesuré le transport solide dans le cours d’eau, utilisé des formules de transport théorique et analysé l’évolution événementielle et séculaire de la bande active et de la bathymétrie littorale. Il ressort de cette étude un important phénomène de rétraction et d’érosion qui touche l’ensemble du secteur depuis 1896 et une faiblesse des apports sédimentaires actuels. Les pertes sédimentaires annuelles moyennes estimées sur le littoral sont supérieures aux apports sédimentaires fluviaux annuels moyens. / The Var beaches have been gradually reduced during the second half of the twentieth century and they survive mostly thanks to costly artificial recharge. In this context, the response of the environment and the risk intensity depend primarily on the sedimentary support provided by the coastal rivers. This study looks to quantify the role of sediments transported by the Gapeau with particular reference to its mouth and neighbouring beaches during flood and storm events. We study the solid load measured in the river, theoretical transport equations in the literature and the evolution of the channel and Hyeres’s coastal bathymetry during the last century and during events. These analyses reveal important retraction and erosion that has impacted upon the area since 1896 and the current low sediment supply. The estimated average annual sediment losses along the coast are higher than the average annual river sediment supply.

Submitted by (lucia.rodrigues@ufrpe.br) on 2016-08-17T10:40:03Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Wagner Luis da Silva Souza.pdf: 1386439 bytes, checksum: 827a26efa0bbda4b3565625f0858d0a2 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-08-17T10:40:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Wagner Luis da Silva Souza.pdf: 1386439 bytes, checksum: 827a26efa0bbda4b3565625f0858d0a2 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011-02-22 / The sediments produced in watersheds are transported by rivers towards the coastal zones. Many researchers have tried to estimate the amount of sediment produced on the continent and transported toward the ocean since the 60's. Moreover, many anthropogenic activities influence in transport capacity which may result in an accumulation or deficit of sediment in coastal areas. The state of Pernambuco shows along its coastline stretches susceptible to coastal erosion, where the coast of the Metropolitan Region of Recife (RMR) receives delivery of sediment produced in various rivers, such as, Beberibe, Capibaribe, Jaboatão and Timbó. The current study had the aim of determinate the current rate of the sediment yield in Capibaribe watershed. Thereby, collect measurement were carry out during the rainy season and non-rainy years of 2009 and 2010 following the methodology of equal width increment (IIL) sampling through the DH-48 sampler for suspended sediment sampling and for bedload sampling was used the U.S. BLH-84. The occurrence of higher concentrations of suspended sediment was observed during the rainy season with an amount equivalent to 594.95 mg L-1 for the years 2009 and 1071.55 mg L-1 to 2010. The suspended sediment yield of the rainy season was 3.42 t km-2 year-1 and 3.75 t km-2 year-1, respectively, for the years 2009 and 2010. The bedload of Capibaribe had uniform distribution a long the bed and distributed well-graded as well. The total sediment yield in Capibaribe watershed in the years 2009 and 2010 was low due to the action of the sediment retention dams, generating a deficit of sediment flux, both suspended and bedload, in the coastal zone in the Metropolitan Region of Recife. / Os sedimentos produzidos nas bacias hidrográficas são transportados pelos rios em direção as zonas costeiras. Muitos pesquisadores, desde a década de 60 tentam estimar a quantidade de sedimentos produzidos no continente e transportados em direção aos oceanos. Muitas atividades antrópicas influenciam nessa capacidade de transporte o que pode acarretar em um acúmulo ou déficit de sedimento nas zonas costeiras, e com isso ocasionando os processos de deposição ou erosão. O Estado de Pernambuco apresente ao longo do seu litoral trechos susceptível a erosão costeira, onde a costa da Região Metropolitana do recife (RMR) recebe aporte de sedimento produzindo das bacias hidrográficas dos rios Beberibe, Capibaribe, Jaboatão e Timbó. O presente trabalho teve como objetivo determinar a atual taxa de produção de sedimentos da Bacia Hidrográfica do Rio Capibaribe. Para tal foram realizadas campanhas de medição direta durante o período chuvoso e não-chuvoso dos anos de 2009 e 2010 seguindo a metodologia da amostragem por igual incremento de largura (IIL), utilizando-se o amostrador DH-48 para amostragem do sedimento em suspensão e para amostragem do sedimento de fundo o amostrador o US BLH-84. Observou-se a ocorrência de maiores concentrações de sedimento em suspensão no período chuvoso com um valor equivalente a 594,95 mg L-1 para o ano de 2009 e 1.071,55 mg L-1 para o ano de 2010. A produção de sedimento em suspensão do período chuvoso foram de 3,42 t km- 2 ano-1 e 3,75 t km-2 ano-1, respectivamente, para os anos de 2009 e 2010. Os sedimentos de fundo do Rio Capibaribe tiveram distribuição uniforme ao longo do leito e distribuída de forma bem graduada. A produção de sedimentos total do Rio Capibaribe nos anos de 2009 e 2010 foi baixa, por conta da ação da retenção de sedimentos pelas barragens, geradoras de déficit do fluxo de sedimentos, tanto suspenso quanto de fundo, na Zona Costeira da Região Metropolitana do Recife.

Living shorelines are designed to address coastal erosion and their use is encouraged over that of hard structures such as sea walls and bulkheads because they provide habitat, improve water quality and stabilize shorelines. Objectives of this study were to: (i) Compare soil Nitrogen [N], Phosphorus [P], Organic Carbon [OC], organic matter (SOM) and soil bulk density between living, hardened and natural shoreline to determine if soil present within living shorelines is comprised of higher SOM and lower bulk density, that encourage marsh growth, as compared to hardened shorelines. (ii) Use an experimental mesocosm to test the effect of shoreline substrate types (living vs hardened vs natural) and nitrogen loading (at four concentration 0, 12, 24, 36 ml) on the growth of Spartina alterniflora. No previous study has documented the growth of Spartina in response to inorganic N loading at various shoreline substrate types. My results show living shoreline has significantly lower soil bulk density [F 2, 138 = 10.79, p <0.01] and higher SOM content than hardened shoreline [F 2, 138 = 10.26, p <0.01]. Combinations of N addition decreased plant’s root-shoot ratio and resulted in increased dry shoot weight. These results indicate that living shoreline is capable of trapping sediments within the nearshore environment, contributing to vertical marsh accretion by accumulation of organic matter, in the face of sea level rise. Findings from this research provide insights to local government, planners, developers and consultants on the benefits of living shoreline structures for the purpose of best shoreline management practice.

Saltmarshes are highly valued habitats but the majority of the Eden Estuary's saltmarsh was buried under sea defences and ad hoc rubbish dumps during the last century. Without saltmarsh, the degraded shoreline may be even more vulnerable to rising sea levels and increased wave and tidal energy. This study investigated planting native saltmarsh species, common in the estuaries of Eastern Scotland, to restore saltmarsh development and sedimentation to the Eden Estuary's shoreline. The survival and growth of the sedge Bolboschoenus maritimus (Sea Club-rush) and the grasses Phragmites australis (Common Reed) and Puccinellia maritima (Common Saltmarsh Grass) were compared in planting trials. These were seeded or transplanted onto unvegetated upper mudflats in front of eroded P. maritima saltmarsh and a disused rubbish dump. The longer term sustainability of this practice was assessed by comparing sediment deposition and surface elevation in the transplant sites, natural saltmarsh and upper unvegetated mudflats. B. maritimus outperformed P. australis and P. maritima. Springtime, high density planting was successful, whereas seeds, planting in autumn and low density planting failed. Growth in the transplanted B. maritimus sites was relatively slow for the first three years but subsequently overtook growth of the seaward edge of natural B. maritimus marsh. Sediment was not deposited on natural P. maritima and was low on upper unvegetated mudflats and in young transplant sites. Most deposition occurred in four year old sites of B. maritimus. Sediment surface elevation in natural P. maritima remained constant throughout the year, but increased in all the other sites during the summer. The upper mudflat was the only site to erode during winter. A significant, positive association was found between tide height and sediment deposition, while winds from the south-east were associated with significantly more deposition than winds from the south-west. The direct planting of saltmarsh vegetation has restored a valuable and rapidly disappearing habitat to the degraded shoreline of the Eden Estuary. The low-cost and simplicity of this restoration practice give it great potential as a sustainable coastal management option that should be explored in other Scottish estuaries. This form of restoration could help to increase the resilience and reduce the vulnerability of degraded shorelines to climate change and rising sea levels.

As zonas costeiras estão em constante processo de pressão, tanto pela ação humana, que acaba rompendo o equilíbrio dominante, como pela ação da natureza, que está ligada principalmente a fatores geológicos, fatores climáticos e à dinâmica costeira. Neste trabalho buscou-se analisar a evolução do processo de ocupação urbana na faixa oceânica no município de Santa Vitória do Palmar, nos balneários do Hermenegildo e da Barra do Chuí, devido ao fato de esse local apresentar problemas em seu processo de urbanização, que se configuram pela falta de planejamento e de ordenamento territorial. Para essa análise, utilizou-se produtos de sensoriamento remoto em escala multitemporal, com perspectivas temporais em que se pode trabalhar e entender as rupturas de paradigmas em diferentes momentos históricos. Para isso, foram feitas análises em um levantamento aerofotogramétrico, adquirido pelo Exército Brasileiro, na Escala 1:75.000 do ano de 1964, análises em Imagens de Satélite Landsat TM7, do ano de 1996 e Imagens de Satélite QuickBird do ano de 2010. Portanto, esse trabalho propôs uma análise em escala multitemporal no processo de urbanização dos balneários do Hermenegildo e da Barra do Chuí, para um melhor entendimento do porquê dos problemas com as construções residenciais na faixa frontal ao Oceano Atlântico, que tem levando muitos moradores a perda total de suas residências. Verificou-se que a evolução dos percentuais de ocupação urbana nos balneários do Hermenegildo e da Barra do Chuí foi bastante significativa, sendo o que os dois balneários apresentaram crescimento mais elevado nas três primeiras décadas analisadas e ainda concluiu-se que no último intervalo da análise os índices de crescimento urbano foram menores para os dois balneários, recomendando-se maiores estudos e monitoramento dos vetores de crescimento urbano para ambos os balneários, com maior atenção para o balneário do Hermenegildo, devido ao grave problema de erosão costeira. / Coastal zones are constantly affected by the pressure process, caused by the human action, which ends up breaking the dominant balance, as well as by the action of the nature, which is mainly related to geologic and climatic factors and to the coastal dynamic. This study aims to analyze the urban occupation evolution process along Santa Vitória do Palmar coastline, especially Balneário do Hermenegildo and Balneário da Barra do Chuí, considering the fact that this specific territory presents lots of problems concerning its urbanization process. For this analysis, images captured by remote sensing were used in a multitemporal scale, trough time perspectives that enable this study to develop and understand the paradigmatic ruptures in different historical periods. In order to do so, different types of images were analyzed, such as the aerial photogrammetric survey, taken by the Brazilian Army, in the 1:75.000 scale of 1964, TM7 Landsat Satellite Images, taken in 1996, and QuickBird Satellite Images, taken in 2010. Therefore, this study promoted an analysis in a multitemporal scale of the urbanization process regarding the territory already mentioned, in order to discover the causes of the problems involving residential constructions located on the frontal area of the Atlantic Ocean, which might be the reason why the residents are totally losing their residences. It was found that the development of the urban occupation percentage in Balneário do Hermenegildo and Balneário da Barra do Chuí was very significant, based upon the fact that both beaches present a notorious increase on the first three analyzed decades and, beyond that, it was concluded that during the last interval of the analysis, the urban growth indices were lower for both, suggesting that this field demands more studies and monitoring of the urban growth vectors for both beaches, attaching particular attention to Balneário do Hermenegildo because of its severe coastal erosion problem.

The following study investigates how a sand dune system in the central part of Laholm Bay (Laholmsbukten) in Halland County, Sweden, has evolved over the time period 1947 to 2014. Effort was made to contribute to improved knowledge of how geomorphological variations and anthropogenic activity in the area have been influenced by each other over time. The study is aiming to provide an improved science basis for further development of coastal management in the area. Initial focus points were to investigate the correlation over time between changes in dune system morphology, vegetation distribution and anthropogenic influence. Furthermore connections were made as to how climate has influenced the development and how climate change during the 21st century might affect the area. Methods used during the course of this study entailed fieldwork and remote sensing of aerial photographs. Changes in dune system dynamics, land cover and human impact on the area over time were analyzed. The result demonstrates that the area has undergone dynamic changes, affected by climatological aspects, human activities as well as vegetation changes. Decreasing topographic variations in the southern part of the dune system compared to the north is identified to be dependent on variations in soil fractions. This combined with the identified changes in vegetation distribution over time has an affect on erosion and deposition processes within the area. Future climate change during this century may further increase the dynamic behavior of the dune system, an important aspect to consider within local coastal management. / Följande studie utreder hur ett sanddynsområde i de centrala delarna av Laholmsbukten i Hallands län utvecklats under tidsperioden 1947-2014. Syftet var att skapa en uppdaterad kunskapsbild av områdets geomorfologiska utveckling och hur den antropogena aktiviteten i området har påverkat denna, för att, om möjligt bidra med underlag till en utveckling av förvaltningsarbetet i kustområdet. Fokus låg på att utreda sambanden mellan förändringar av landskapets morfologi, vegetationens utbredning och antropogen påverkan. Vidare undersöks hur klimatet under tidsperioden kan ha bidragit till den geomorfologiska utvecklingen och hur området kan komma att förändras fram till sekelskiftet år 2100. Arbetet innefattade fältarbete och fjärranalys av flygbilder. Faktorer såsom dynsystemets dynamik, areella förändringar i marktäcke och mänsklig påverkan på området analyserades. Resultatet påvisar att sanddynsområdet genomgått dynamiska förändringar över tid som kan antas bero på klimatologiska aspekter i kombination med mänsklig aktivitet och vegetationsförändringar. Dynområdets minskande relief i nord-sydlig riktning och variationer i dynkantens förskjutning över tid är beroende av det dynbildande materialets sammansättning. I kombination med identifierade variationer i vegetationens utbredning påverkar detta erosions- och ackumulationsförutsättningarna i området. Klimatförändringar under detta sekel kan komma att påverka de faktorer som reglerar dynsystemets uppbyggnad vilket kan öka dynamiken i systemet ytterligare. En aspekt som är viktig att ta hänsyn till i förvaltningen av dynområdet.

To date, there has been little research on the morphodynamics of Canada’s Pacific mesotidal beach-dune systems and their potential response to climate variability and change. Accordingly, this study examines and characterizes the morphodynamics of a mesotidal beach-dune system on western Vancouver Island (Wickaninnish Beach) and investigates its potential response to extreme seasonal storms, climate variability events, and climate change trends. This research also informs protected areas management approaches, whose effectiveness is important to the conservation of early successional and proportionately rare specialized dune species. Research methods include repeat cross-sectional surveys, repeat vantage photographs, and analysis of the wind, wave, and water level regime. Both the regional wind regime and aeolian sediment transport regime are bimodal, with a WNW (summer) component and a SE (winter) component. The nearshore littoral sediment transport regime is characterized by both longshore and rip cell circulation cells. To date, survey results are informative only of seasonal changes. Longer-term monitoring will better reveal contemporary trends of the beach-dune system. A high dune rebuilding potential (aeolian sand transport potential = 9980 m3 m‐1 a‐1, resultant aeolian sand transport = 3270 m3 m‐1 a‐1 at 356 degrees) was found based on the incident wind regime and sand grain diameter. A threshold elevation for dune erosion was defined at 5.5 m aCD. Erosive water levels were analyzed using three approaches yielding the following results. Erosive water levels are reached on average, ~3.5 times per year; with a probability of 65% in any given year; and, annual return levels are 5.59 m aCD, suggesting erosive water levels are reached annually. Statistical relations show that the positive phase of El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO) (El Niño) shares the most variance with the incident oceanographic regime (e.g., significant wave height, peak period), and although a causal relationship cannot be drawn, El Niño may contribute to the occurrence of erosive events on Wickaninnish Beach. Beyond El Niño, overall findings suggest climate variability signals are manifest in regional erosional water level regimes.

Increases in the frequency and magnitude of extreme water levels and storm surges are observed along some areas of the British Columbia coast to be correlated with known climatic variability (CV) phenomena, including the El Niño/Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO). Since a shift to a positive PDO regime in 1977, the effect of ENSO events have been more frequent, persistent, and intense. Teleconnected impacts include more frequent storms, higher surges, and greater coastal erosion. Geomorphic recovery of regional beach-dune systems from erosive events is usually rapid (i.e., within a year) by way of high onshore sand transport and aeolian delivery to the upper beach and dunes. At Wickaninnish Bay on the west coast of Vancouver Island, fast progradation rates (to +1.46 m a-1) have been observed in recent decades, in part due to rapid regional tectonic uplift and a resulting fall in relative sea level of ~ -0.9 mm a-1. The Wickaninnish foredune complex has rapidly extended alongshore in response to a net northward littoral drift and onshore sediment delivery. Bar deposition and welding processes supply sediment to the foredune complex via aeolian processes, and as a result, this is forcing Sandhill Creek northward toward the prograding (+0.71 m a-1) Combers Beach system, in part maintaining active erosion (-1.24 m a-1) of a bluff system landward of the channel. Bluff erosion generates substantial sediment volumes (-0.137 m3 m-2 a-1) that feed a large intertidal braided channel and delta system as the creek purges into the Pacific Ocean. As a first step in exploring the interactions between ocean-atmosphere forcing and beach-dune responses on the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada, the proposed thesis: 1) Examines and assembles the historic erosive water level regime and attempts to draw links to observed high magnitude storm events that have occurred in the Tofino-Ucluelet region (Wickaninnish Bay); and 2) Explores the geomorphic response of local shorelines by examining the geomorphology and historical evolution of a foredune-riverine-backshore bluff complex. Despite rapid shoreline progradation, foredune erosion occurs locally with a recurrence interval of ~1.53 yrs. followed by rapid rebuilding, often in the presence of large woody debris and rapidly colonizing vegetation, which drives a longer-term trend of shoreline progradation. This process is complicated locally, however, by the influence of local geological control (bedrock headlands) and backshore rivers, such as Sandhill Creek, which alter spatial-temporal patterns of both intertidal and supratidal erosion and deposition. This work is necessary to understand mechanisms responsible for erosive water levels and the process interaction responsible for subsequent coastal rebuilding following erosive periods. / Graduate / 0368 / derek.heathfield@gmail.com

In this study, The Beach Dewatering System, a relatively recent technology to combat beach erosion, which is proposed as a practical alternative to more traditional shoreline stabilization methods, is investigated and an informative overview on the genesis, development and recent use of this technique is provided. On the basis of the link existing between the elevation of beach groundwater and erosional or accretionary trends at the beach face, a numerical model that simulates groundwater flow in a coastal aquifer under beach drainage is presented. In this model, the seaward boundary of the domain is considered to be tidally fluctuating in a large scale to represent the occurrence of seepage face significantly. The unsteady groundwater flow equation is solved numerically using the method of finite differences. The results clearly showed that the water table being lowered caused the reduction of the seepage face which is the main aim of Beach Dewatering projects. The positional design parameters, i.e. horizontal and vertical location of the drain, are also investigated by utilizing an efficiency index. It is observed that the system efficiency decreased as the drain is shifted landward. The results also indicated that, the efficiency slightly increased with the vertical drain elevation.

As zonas costeiras estão em constante processo de pressão, tanto pela ação humana, que acaba rompendo o equilíbrio dominante, como pela ação da natureza, que está ligada principalmente a fatores geológicos, fatores climáticos e à dinâmica costeira. Neste trabalho buscou-se analisar a evolução do processo de ocupação urbana na faixa oceânica no município de Santa Vitória do Palmar, nos balneários do Hermenegildo e da Barra do Chuí, devido ao fato de esse local apresentar problemas em seu processo de urbanização, que se configuram pela falta de planejamento e de ordenamento territorial. Para essa análise, utilizou-se produtos de sensoriamento remoto em escala multitemporal, com perspectivas temporais em que se pode trabalhar e entender as rupturas de paradigmas em diferentes momentos históricos. Para isso, foram feitas análises em um levantamento aerofotogramétrico, adquirido pelo Exército Brasileiro, na Escala 1:75.000 do ano de 1964, análises em Imagens de Satélite Landsat TM7, do ano de 1996 e Imagens de Satélite QuickBird do ano de 2010. Portanto, esse trabalho propôs uma análise em escala multitemporal no processo de urbanização dos balneários do Hermenegildo e da Barra do Chuí, para um melhor entendimento do porquê dos problemas com as construções residenciais na faixa frontal ao Oceano Atlântico, que tem levando muitos moradores a perda total de suas residências. Verificou-se que a evolução dos percentuais de ocupação urbana nos balneários do Hermenegildo e da Barra do Chuí foi bastante significativa, sendo o que os dois balneários apresentaram crescimento mais elevado nas três primeiras décadas analisadas e ainda concluiu-se que no último intervalo da análise os índices de crescimento urbano foram menores para os dois balneários, recomendando-se maiores estudos e monitoramento dos vetores de crescimento urbano para ambos os balneários, com maior atenção para o balneário do Hermenegildo, devido ao grave problema de erosão costeira. / Coastal zones are constantly affected by the pressure process, caused by the human action, which ends up breaking the dominant balance, as well as by the action of the nature, which is mainly related to geologic and climatic factors and to the coastal dynamic. This study aims to analyze the urban occupation evolution process along Santa Vitória do Palmar coastline, especially Balneário do Hermenegildo and Balneário da Barra do Chuí, considering the fact that this specific territory presents lots of problems concerning its urbanization process. For this analysis, images captured by remote sensing were used in a multitemporal scale, trough time perspectives that enable this study to develop and understand the paradigmatic ruptures in different historical periods. In order to do so, different types of images were analyzed, such as the aerial photogrammetric survey, taken by the Brazilian Army, in the 1:75.000 scale of 1964, TM7 Landsat Satellite Images, taken in 1996, and QuickBird Satellite Images, taken in 2010. Therefore, this study promoted an analysis in a multitemporal scale of the urbanization process regarding the territory already mentioned, in order to discover the causes of the problems involving residential constructions located on the frontal area of the Atlantic Ocean, which might be the reason why the residents are totally losing their residences. It was found that the development of the urban occupation percentage in Balneário do Hermenegildo and Balneário da Barra do Chuí was very significant, based upon the fact that both beaches present a notorious increase on the first three analyzed decades and, beyond that, it was concluded that during the last interval of the analysis, the urban growth indices were lower for both, suggesting that this field demands more studies and monitoring of the urban growth vectors for both beaches, attaching particular attention to Balneário do Hermenegildo because of its severe coastal erosion problem.