Thesis (BTech (Fashion Design))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2010 / Petite women face many difficulties when purchasing clothing (Kam, 2006). This has been the common reaction expressed by a number of petite women all over the globe (Kam, 2006). Although there have been efforts made to accommodate petite women in South Africa( National Textiles Research brief, 2007) regarding clothing such as Edgars in particular there is still a large amount of petite women who feel dissatisfied. To test whether poorly fitted clothing does have a psychological effect on the petite women, interviews will be conducted with students attending CPUT and UCT. Research on theories revolving around the human mind and how the perception of other people influence our own perceptions of our self image were covered and the product of this research will be a new sizing system for petite women and a range of smart wear which allows women to express themselves age appropriately. The apparel industry has been growing and has worked side by side with technology to address many problems concerning fit and have succeeded in many departments. The fashion industry has in fact paid little attention to petite individuals not recognizing the psychological effect it has on the consumer and could largely benefit if the industry concentrates more on fit, aesthetic and design problems.

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British fashion is poised amidst a clutch of conflicting narratives, representations and ideologies. Through an examination of these rival encounters and the events that have gone to generate them, this thesis gives an insight into the culture of contemporary fashion, its dilemmas and the industry it supports. In particular, my discussion looks at the relationship between fashion and national identity. It posits fashion as a site central both to the re-branding of Britain and also to contestations over British identity itself, including the gendering of Britishness and its class relations. Using the cases of two iconic British fashion companies, Paul Smith Ltd and Mulberry Plc, I explore how the apparently straightforward and economically driven process of the globalisation of British fashion is, in fact, a far more culturally nuanced and locally embedded encounter than has previously been suggested. I unpack the different ways in which Paul Smith and Mulberry go about negotiating and sometimes even shaping and mobilising a sense of nationness in what is a rapidly globalising commercial marketplace. For in spite of their shared iconic national status both companies go about generating and deploying their self-confessed British character in exceedingly different ways. It is through an exploration of Paul Smith and Mulberry's contrasting corporate strategies, symbolic production techniques and product profiles that I investigate the different meanings afforded by the term Britishness. Indeed the thesis contends that, in the arena of fashion, Britishness is characterised less through some distinct essence or by a particular 'look' and more through its 'narratives of ambiguity'. In turn, it suggests that an understanding of these narratives goes some way in problematising and disrupting commonly imagined notions of Britishness borne out of Anglo-centric, androcentric and bourgeois tradition and, still further, it looks at how such notions might be re-worked in more multiple and complex ways.

The western Piedmont of Pennsylvania is underlain by the Octoraro and Peters Creek Formations, and these formations were juxtaposed during Late Paleozoic dextral strike-slip shearing. North of the shear zone, the Octoraro Formation contains evidence for two metamorphisms and deformations prior to strike-slip shearing, whereas south of the shear zone the Peters Creek Formation contains evidence for only one. The discordance in metamorphic and deformational history across the shear zone suggests the now juxtaposed rocks originated in different parts of the orogen. A minimum of 150 km of orogen parallel dextral offset is proposed for the shear system based on palinspastic reconstruction of the Cambrian-Ordovician shelf edge between northern Maryland and southeastern New York. The Peters Creek Formation consists of three lithofacies: 1) graded metasandstone beds, 2) meta-quartz-pelite, and 3) massive metasandstone lenses within the graded bedded sequences. The occurrence of interlayered greenstone in lithofacies 1) suggests rift related deposition. These rift clastics consist of two submarine turbidite-fan systems defined by thick sequences of interlayered feldspathic metasandstone and schist, separated by a region underlain of quartz-schist. Comparison of the Peters Creek Formation with known Iapetan rift clastics in the central Appalachians of Virginia suggests the Peters Creek deposits are also related to Iapetan rifting. Transpressional structural models have been applied to oblique convergence tectonics, with the coeval development of contractional and transcurrent structures. Late Paleozoic post-Taconian deformation in the north-central Appalachian Piedmont of Pennsylvania and Maryland is characterized by two stages of dextral transpression. Stage one comprises a map-scale ductile conjugate shear zone pair (the Rosemont and Crum Creek shear zones) that developed at amphibolite facies. These conjugate shear zones were later overprinted, during stage two, by greenschist facies dextral shear zones that flank broad upright antiforms. Conjugate shear-pair criteria were applied to these structures to constrain the paleo-principal compressive stress orientations. During stage one σ1 and σ3 were shallowly plunging, with σ2 steeply plunging. During stage two σ1 and σ2 were shallowly plunging, with σ3 steeply plunging. The structural evolution and associated change in stress array suggests unroofing during transpression, consistent with the decrease in metamorphic grade. Post-transpressional deformation produced a pair of conjugate cleavages in the lower Susquehanna River region, and determined orientations of the principal compressive stresses suggest Late Paleozoic extension, possibly related to gravitational collapse. Previously published orthogonal collision and tectonic assembly models for the north-central Appalachian Piedmont are incompatible with the new data. Oblique collision tectonics resulted in complex dextral transpressional deformation and large orogen parallel displacement of crustal blocks. Tectonic models that do not include the transpressional orogen component of the tectonic history should be seriously reconsidered. / Ph. D.

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This thesis examines unsewn cloth pieces which once belonged to Victoria Wood and places them into their social and historical context. It uses the biography of Victoria Wood and her fabrics to argue for the importance of fabric collecting and dressmaking for New Zealand women from 1935 to 1955. It questions why ubiquitous fabrics bought for dress making are not represented in historical accounts of women, or in more general accounts of historical clothing and dress. Aspects of material culture theories are employed to analyse the material properties of the fabric pieces. These are situated within a wider domestic context to demonstrate that there were intrinsic qualities of fabric that influenced and were imagined by many women in this period. Oral histories and other documentary research add to the wider account and provide evidence of the way that dressmaking fabrics reflected the shifting notions of domesticity. The thesis suggests that fabrics bought for the creation of clothing can represent the past or a person. It also demonstrates how dressmaking fabrics simultaneously embody personal and social narratives which reflect the emotional and cultural values of a particular period. In this thesis I construct narratives which are based on the social and historical findings to highlight the importance of fabric collecting and dressmaking as an everyday domestic practice.

Fundação Araucária / O objetivo deste estudo foi analisar as relações existentes entre os domínios da QV e a QVT geral e entre os critérios da QVT e a QV geral, através de um modelo de regressão logística, em funcionários do APL de vestuário de Maringá/Cianorte – PR. No referencial teórico foram abordados conceitos relacionados aos seguintes temas: qualidade de vida, qualidade de vida no trabalho, APL (Arranjo Produtivo Local) e fundamentação estatística. O método utilizado na pesquisa foi o indutivo, sendo a abordagem metodológica aplicada, quantitativa, exploratória descritiva e de levantamento. Para a coleta de dados foram utilizados dois questionários, sendo o primeiro o WHOQOL-bref para avaliação da QV e o segundo uma adaptação do modelo proposto por Walton para avaliação da QVT, os questionários foram aplicados em 15 empresas distribuídas da seguinte forma: quatro microempresas (n= 43), quatro pequenas empresas (n= 86), seis medias empresas (n=214) e uma grande empresa (n=126). Ao todo foram avaliados 469 funcionários entre homens e mulheres. Para a análise dos dados utilizou-se do cálculo da estimativa dos valores médios dos domínios de QV e dos critérios de QVT, identificação de outliers, teste de independência qui-quadrado e técnica de regressão logística. Para a validação do modelo estimado através da regressão logística foi utilizado o teste Hosmer-Lemeshow. Os resultados encontrados na regressão logística para as variáveis independentes (domínios de QV) em relação a variável dependente (QVT geral) mostraram que os domínios: físico (P=0,002), psicológico (P= 0,017) e meio ambiente (P= 0,000) possuem influência significativa em relação à QVT. Logo o domínio relações sociais (P=0,114) mostrou não possuir influência significativa em relação à QVT, pois apresentou valor acima do nível de significância adotado (P>0,05). Considerando somente as variáveis que apresentaram associação significativa foi estimado um modelo de regressão logística. Com isto constatou-se que um funcionário apresentando satisfação com os domínios de QV (físico, psicológico e meio-ambiente) terá uma probabilidade de 78,27% de desenvolver uma QVT satisfatória. Os resultados obtidos na regressão logística para as variáveis independentes (critérios de QVT) em relação a variável dependente (QV geral) mostrou para esta população pesquisada que não existe uma associação significativa entre os critérios de QVT e a QV geral, pois todos os critérios apresentaram valores acima do nível de significância adotado (P > 0,05). Conclui-se que as empresas podem desenvolver programas de QV para os funcionários desta população pesquisada, dando maior atenção aos domínios físico, psicológico e meio ambiente pelo fato destes domínios terem apresentado influências significativas na melhora da satisfação em relação à QVT. / The objective of this study was to analyze the relationships between the domains of the QV and general QVT and between the criteria of QWL and overall QOL, using a logistic regression model with employees of APL clothing in Maringá/Cianorte - PR. On the theoretical referential discussed were related to the following themes: quality of life, quality of work life, APL (Local Productive Arrangement) and statistical reasoning. The method used in the research was the inductive one, and the methodological approach applied, quantitative, descriptive exploratory and collecting data. For the data collection two questionnaires had been used, the first one was WHOQOL-bref for evaluation of the QV and the second one was an adaptation of the model proposed by Walton for evaluation of the QVT, the questionnaires had been applied in 15 distributed companies as follows: four microcompanies (n= 43), four small companies (n= 86), six medium-sized companies (n=214) and a large company (n=126). The whole evaluated were 469 employees between men and women. For the analysis of data was used to calculate the estimate of the average values of QOL domains and criteria of QWL, identification of outliers, test of independence qui-square and technique of logistic regression. For the validation of the model estimated by logistic regression was used Hosmer-Lemeshow test. The results in the logistic regression for independent variables (QV domains) in relation the dependent variable (overall QWL) showed that the domains: physicist (P=0,002), psychological (P=0,017) and environment (P=0,000) have significant influence in relation to QVT. So social relationships (P=0,114) showed no significant influence has in relation to the QVT, because it presented value over the level of significance (P> 0.05). Considering only the variables that showed significant association was estimated a logistic regression model. With this was noted an employee presenting satisfaction with the QOL domains (physicist, psychological and environment) will have a probability of 78,27% to develop a QWL satisfactory. The results obtained in the logistic regression for independent variables (QWL criteria) in relation to the dependent variable (overall QOL) showed for this population researched that there is not a significant association between the criteria of QLW and overall QOL, , because all the criteria presented values above the level of significance (P> 0.05). It is concluded that the companies can develop programs of QV for the employees of this researched population, giving more attention to the physical, psychological and environment because these areas have presented significant influences in improving satisfaction in relation to the QWL.