Neste trabalho que trata da redução do consumo de água na fase do tingimento das roupas fabricadas com malha de algodão, foi desenvolvido um método utilizando pigmento natural Urucum Especial com o objetivo de diminuir o consumo de água e avaliar os resultados, comparando-os com aqueles que são conseguidos atualmente pelos métodos de tingimento com pigmento natural Urucum pelo método tradicional e o método de tingimento com corante sintético Direto. Para assegurar que o processo proposto pudesse ser aplicado em escala industrial, o trabalho foi desenvolvido em equipamentos pilotos da empresa Donacor, do Senai Têxtil Francisco Matarazzo e da Universidade de São Paulo. Cada tingimento foi feito em triplicata, avaliando-se o consumo de água, a solidez à água, ao suor e à luz. Demonstrou-se que o processo Urucum Especial pode ser utilizado industrialmente como um método alternativo cujo consumo de água é menor que o método tradicional utilizado para tingir com o pigmento urucum. A redução no consumo de água foi de 38 litros por quilogramas de roupa tingida em relação ao processo utilizado com corante Direto e 68 litros com o processo utilizado para tingir com pigmento urucum. Os ensaios de solidez à água e ao suor nos três processos testados não apresentaram valores significativos, enquanto que os ensaios de solidez à luz do processo Urucum Especial pelo método proposto obtiveram notas máximas. A intensidade coloristica do processo Urucum Especial ficou 3,65 unidades maior do que o processo Urucum Esgotamento, apresentando melhor rendimento tintorial e demonstrando que o processo Especial pode ser executado como alternativa ao processo convencional com otimização no rendimento do pigmento natural / In this work which deals with the reduction of water consumption in the dyeing phase of the clothes made of cotton fabric, a method was developed using natural pigment Urucum Special with an aim to reduce water consumption and evaluate the results, comparing them with those that are currently obtained by the dyeing methods with natural pigment Urucum by the traditional method and the dyeing method with Direct synthetic dye. To ensure that the proposed process could be applied on an industrial scale, the work was carried out in pilot equipments at Donacor company, at Senai Textile Francisco Matarazzo and at the University of São Paulo. Each dyeing was done in triplicate evaluating the consumption of water, water fastness, light and sweat. It has been shown that the special process can be used industrially as an alternative method the water consumption is lower than the traditional method used for dyeing with pigment. The reduction in water consumption was 38 liters per kilogram clothing dyed in relation to the process used in direct dye and 68 liters process used for dyeing with pigment. Strength tests and sweat water in the three cases tested showed no significant amounts, while the light fastness test of the special process obtained by the proposed method top marks. The coloristic intensity of Special process was 3.65 units higher than the Urucum conventional process, with better dyeing yield and demonstrating that the Special process can be performed as an alternative to the conventional process by optimizing the yield of natural pigment

Ormosils (Organically Modified Silicates) have been used in the past as hosts for various organic molecules. In this work, seven different photochromic dyes most of which belong to the spirooxazine / merocyanine family were doped into thin films that were prepared using several increasingly inorganic Ormosil formulations. These dyes were either physically incorporated into the pores of the film or covalently bound to the matrix via a siloxane substituent. The dyes, which undergo a reversible color change upon irradiation, are relatively stable, although they will ultimately degrade after prolonged exposure to ultraviolet irradiation. This work focuses on identifying the variables that influence the rate of dye degradation, including rigidity of the Ormosil matrix, wavelength of irradiation, and the presence of oxygen. The silylated dyes, which are generally regarded as having reduced mobility within the pores of the Ormosil, degraded more slowly, suggesting a link between stability and rotational and translational freedom. Irradiation wavelength also affected dye stability in that limiting exposure to wavelengths in the near UV (and eliminating visible light) causes the least degradation. This is attributed to the photostability of the photomerocyanine isomer. Finally, the presence of oxygen was shown to cause dramatic enhancement in degradation. The mechanisms of each of these effects are discussed.

Typescript (photocopy). / Digitized by Kansas Correctional Industries

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Includes errata attached to first leaf. Includes bibliographical references. The complexation of a range of monovalent and divalent metal ions by the bibracchial lariat ethers has been investigated. Also investigates the complexation of metal ions and the anionic azo dye Brilliant Yellow by the diazacrown linked cyclodextrin dimers.

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This project explores the combination of a woven structure consisting of different fibers with dyeing to create a multidimensional woven textile capable of altering in expression. This project aims to show how a designer can work with fibre-specific dyeing and multiple fibers in a woven textile and the many possibilities this lends in a design process. With a sustainable approach to the matter used in the project, creating more with less, a suggestion is made of an alternative method of creating multidimensional fabrics. The chemical reaction between pigment and fiber is explored to show a greater appreciation for the textile material and to create fabrics capable of multiple expressions. One woven fabric, in individual pieces, is dyed in reactive-, acid- and disperse-dye. The cellulose-, wool- and synthetic yarns in the fabric absorb their intended pigment but also show how they react to another category of dye. A series of dyed samples, all originating from the same woven material with an abstract pattern, show the varied expression the treatment can achieve. The fabric and method presented in the project show an example of how one can compose a series of textiles with less matter but with more expression.

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