PhDENV / Department of Ecology and Resource Management / Some industries such as textiles, ceramics, paper and printing are known to use significant amounts of dye to colour their products and during the colouring process, certain quantities of dyes are absorbed by the products, and some of them end up in wastewater. Depending on their application, some synthetic dyes are designed to be chemically or biologically resistant and their presence in the environment can cause severe environmental problems because of their colour impartation to water bodies. Therefore, proper treatment is required to remove these pollutants from wastewater before discharge into the environment. In this thesis, the potential of dye removal from wastewater by calcined magnesite, halloysite nanoclay and calcined magnesite - halloysite nanoclay composite was evaluated. To this end, the study was subdivided to four segments. The first segment of the study focused on evaluating the efficiency of using calcined magnesite to remove Methylene Blue (MB), Direct Red 81 (DR81), Methyl Orange (MO) and Crystal Violet (CV) dyes from aqueous systems using a batch study. To achieve that, several operational factors like residence time, adsorbent dosage, dye concentration and temperature were appraised. The adsorbent was subjected to different kinds of physicochemical characterization to determine the various characteristics that would assist in the dye uptake process. Characterization results showed that the adsorbent material was highly crystalline with magnesite, periclase, dolomite, and quartz as some of the crystalline phases. The batch study proved that calcined magnesite is effective in the treatment of dye contaminated water and moreover it performed well in terms of colour removal, though exceptional results were recorded for CV removal with complete decolourisation occurring in first few minutes of contact. In terms of experimental adsorption capacity, the performance of calcined magnesite was in the order CV (14.99 mg/g) > DR81 (12.56 mg/g) > MO (0.64 mg/g) > MB (0.39 mg/g). Mechanisms of adsorption where explained by fitting the experimental data into adsorption isotherms, kinetics, and thermodynamic parameters. Neither, the Langmuir, nor the Freundlich nor the Dubinin Radushkevich, nor the Temkin model could perfectly describe the adsorption of the four dyes onto calcined magnesite, however adsorption kinetics obeyed the pseudo second order model, implying that, the dye removal process was primarily a chemical process. In accordance with the results of this study, it can be concluded that calcined magnesite can be used effectively for the removal of dyes in aqueous solution and thus can be applied to treat wastewater containing dyes. The second segment of the study focused on the removal of MB, DR81, MO and CV dyes by halloysite nanoclay. Physicochemical characterisation revealed that the nanoclay has a surface area of 42 m²/g and its ABSTRACT iv morphology is predominated by tubular structures, which exhibit some hollow rod like structures. Various important parameters namely contact time, initial concentration of dyes, dosage, solution temperature and solution pH were optimized to achieve maximum adsorption capacity and it was observed that the effect of initial pH and temperature of the aqueous solution was neglibible on removal of the four dyes. The experimental adsorption capacities towards 40 mg/L of MB, DR81, MO and CV dyes were 17.51, 14.11, 0.38, and 4.75 mg/g respectively. The results indicate that natural halloysite nanoclay is an efficient material for the removal of the selected dyes. Due to its low cost and non-toxicity, halloysite nanoclay can be considered a good replacement option of other high cost materials used to treat coloured wastewater especially in developing countries like South Africa. Having observed the performance of calcined magnesite and halloysite nanoclay individually in the removal of selected dyes, a third study was designed with the aim of preparing a nanocomposite adsorbent from the aforementioned adsorbent materials and then evaluating the synergistic influence of the mechanochemical modification by a ball miller on the removal of MB, DR81, MO and CV dyes. Physicochemical characterization was carried out to get an insight of pre- and -post adsorption characteristics of the nanocomposite material and results showed major changes which could be an indication of dye uptake by the nanocomposite material. According to the results, the nanocomposite material outcompeted its component individual constituent materials i.e (calcined magnesite and halloysite nanoclay material) in the removal of DR81, which in turn was the highest removal efficiency observed for the whole batch adsorption study recording a maximum adsorption capacity and percentage removal of 19.89 mg/g and 99.40% respectively. Experimental results fitted the Langmuir and pseudo-second order models perfectly hence demonstrating that adsorption took place on a homogenous adsorbent layer via chemisorption. In overall, the results suggested that the nanocomposite is a suitable adsorbent for decolourising industrial wastewater. Based on the overall performance of the adsorbents in removing the four dyes, it was observed that the nanocomposite material had a high affinity for DR81 dye hence it was chosen as the model dye for further application in column studies. The effect of flow rate, bed height and initial dye concentration on the removal of DR81 was investigated. Maximum bed capacity and equilibrium dye uptake were determined and break through curves were plotted. Percentage dye removal increased with decrease in flow rate and increase in bed height. The maximum capacity of column was found to be about 51.73 mg DR81 per gram of the nanocomposite adsorbent for a flow rate of 3 mL/min, initial concentration of 10 mg/L and 4 cm bed height. Data from column studies was fitted to the Thomas model and Adams-Bohart models. The comparison of the R2 values obtained from both models showed a better fit for the nanocomposite material than the individual halloysite nanoclay and calcined magnesite materials. The study revealed the applicability of calcined magnesite- halloysite nanoclay composite in fixed bed column for the removal of DR81 dye from aqueous solution. v The reuse of an adsorbent is essential in order to make the adsorption process economic and environmentally friendly. To recover the adsorbate and renew the adsorbent for further use, a chemical method of regeneration was applied by using 0.1 M NaOH as the desorbent. Regeneration with 0.1 M NaOH proved very efficient for some dyes and less efficient for others depending on the adsorbent material used at the time. The general observation was that the adsorption capacity of the adsorbent materials decreased with successive adsorption – desorption cycles. Furthermore, regeneration with NaOH, favoured the acidic dyes (DR81 and MO) more than the basic dyes (MB and CV) possibly due to electrostatic interactions between oppositely charged molecules allowing for reversible reactions to take place. The three tested adsorbents namely calcined magnesite, halloysite nanoclay and their nanocomposite thereof were applied for the treatment of real wastewater effluent from a printing and ink industry. The adsorbents performed very well in terms of colour removal as recommended by the South African standards of wastewater discharge, However, in terms of pH, calcined magnesite and the nanocomposite produced a highly alkaline solution hence wastewater neutralisation by an acid is recommended before discharge. These findings show that the two natural clay-based materials (calcined magnesite and halloysite nanoclay) and their nanocomposite thereof have a great potential for application in dye wastewater remediation since the materials used in the process are inexpensive, abundant and require minimal modifications. / NRF

published_or_final_version / Environmental Management / Master / Master of Science in Environmental Management

A reactive-ionic functional group was incorporated into the structure of fiber finishes and colorants to provide high-yield add-on and permanency. The reactive-ionic group consists of a moderately strained, cyclic ammonium group which undergoes ionic assembly on the surface of negatively charged substrates. The ionic bond is then converted to a covalent bond at elevated temperatures via a ring-opening reaction. A reactive-ionic alkyl (wax) finish was prepared from octadecanol and N-phenyl pyrrolidine then applied to a glass slide to provide a permanent, hydrophobic surface with an average contact angle increase of approximately 40°. A reactive-ionic fluorinated finish was prepared from 1H,1H,2H,2H-perfluoro-1-octanol and N-phenyl pyrrolidine and after application served as a permanent, non-wetting, anti-stain finish for nylon carpet. A reactive-ionic chromophore (dye) was prepared from C.I. Disperse Red 1 and quinuclidine. The reactive-ionic dye was applied to cellophane and nylon films and bleached cotton, nylon and silk fabrics. The percent exhaustion for a 1% owf dyeing of silk fabric was measured to be 98% using visible light absorbance spectrophotometry. K/S values obtained from reflectance spectrophotometric measurements of a 1% owf dyeing of nylon 6,6 fabric showed a 6% color loss after solvent extraction, indicating that the dyeing was indeed permanent.

Dafeng fue una fábrica china pionera en la fabricación y apresto de bienes de algodón industriales. La primera industrialización de China, donde cabe ubicar Dafeng, es un hecho histórico que empezó a mediados del siglo XIX y acabó en los años cincuenta del siglo siguiente. Ubicada en Shanghai, Dafeng es representativa de este acontecimiento, muy concentrado en el sector algodonero y en la región del delta del Yangzi. En China, el desarrollo de la industrialización tuvo sus fortalezas y sus debilidades. Sin embargo, los intentos de China de alcanzar a las economías industriales occidentales fueron en vano. Sirviéndose del caso particular de la empresa Dafeng, la presente investigación pretende examinar las continuidades y rupturas que produjo la industrialización en China. / Dafeng was a pioneer in the industrial production of finished cotton fabrics in China. Located in Shanghai, it played a leading role in the first industrialization of China, a historical process that was strongly focused in the cotton sector and highly concentrated in the Yangzi Delta. Starting in the mid XIXth Century, the first industrialization of China ended in the 1950s and had its strengths and its weaknesses. However, Chinese attempts to reach industrialized countries in that period were in vain. Using a particular case, the company Dafeng, the present research aims to contextualize and examine the continuities and breakdowns of Chinese industrialization.

Orientador: João Sinezio de Carvalho Campos / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Quimica / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-10T13:40:00Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Giordano_JoaoBatista_D.pdf: 4390680 bytes, checksum: 205aa7153da8e4745f9366e58adcb8cf (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007 / Resumo: Dentre as técnicas de modificação de superfícies aplicadas na indústria para melhorar adesão, o tratamento por descarga corona é amplamente utilizado. Durante o tratamento por descarga coro na, espécies ativas são geradas, as quais podem reagir com a superfície do polímero ocasionando quebra de cadeias e formação de radicais, criando assim grupos polares na superfície e conseqüentemente, aumentando a sua energia superficial e propriedade de adesão. Neste trabalho utilizaram-se tecidos de poliéster e de algodão. Nos processos convencionais de preparação de tecidos são usados agentes químicos que agridem os efluentes têxteis, assim a descarga corona propõe-se como tratamento prévio do material sem ação de tais agentes, sendo tratamento único e apenas físico. Os objetivos deste trabalho são: 1. Tratar com descarga corona tecidos de poliéster e tecidos de algodão (engomado, lavado e desengomado); 2. Verificar hidrofilidade e absorção de corantes em tecidos de algodão tratados com descarga corona; 3. Verificar propriedades mecânicas em tecidos tratados com descarga corona. 4. Verificar a adesão de pigmentos em de tecidos de poliéster tratados com corona. Tecidos foram submetidos à descarga: corona variando-se o tempo exposição e altura entre os eletrodos, em seguida foi realizada testes de hídrofilidade, absorção de corante tipo reativo, adesão de pigmentos, solidez a lavagem e ensaios de resistência à tração e alongamento. Foi utilizada a técnica de microscopia óptica, ensaio de hidrofilidade para caracterizar os efeitos causados. Os resultados mostram que: houve aumento da hidrofilidade do tecido de algodão que de 50% em amostra sem tratamento passou até a 280% com o tratamento, observou-se também que com te~pos de 1 mino já ocorrem modificações nos tecidos quanto a hidrofilidade e absorção de corantes; houve aumento da absorção de corante nas regiões tratadas principalmente em processos contínuos de tingimento; ocorreu boa aderência de pigmentos em tecidos de poliéster tratados; não ocorrem alteração das propriedades mecânicas (resistência a tração e alongamento) nas amostras tratadas. / Abstract: Amongst the techniques of modification of surfaces applied in the industry to improve adhesion, the treatment for discharge corona widely is used. During the treatment for discharge corona, active species are generated, which can consequently react with the surface of polymer causing chain in addition and formation of radicals, thus creating polar groups in the surface and, increasing its superficial energy and property of adhesion. In this work they had been used weaveed of polyester and cotton. In the conventional processes of fabric preparation they are used chemical agents whom the effluent textile attack, thus the discharge corona is considered as previous treatment of the material without action of such agents, being treatment only e only physicist. The objectives of this work are: 1.To deal with discharge corona weaveed to polyester and fabrics cotton (starchy, washed and dissolved the gum); 2. To verify water absorption and absorption of corantes in fabrics of cotton treated with discharge corona; to 3.Verificar mechanical properties in fabrics dealt with discharge corona. 4. To verify the pigment adhesion in of treated polyester fabrics with corona. Fabrics had been submitted to the discharge corona varying the time exposition and height between the electrodes and, after that water absorption tests had been carried through, absorption of corante reactive type, pigment adhesion, solidity the laudering and assays of tensile strenght and allonge. The technique of optic microscopy was used, assay of water absorption to characterize the caused effect. The results show that: it had increase of the hidrofilidade of the cotton fabric that of 50% in sample without treatment passed until 280% with the treatment, was 9.lso observed that with times of 1 min. already the water absorption and absorption of corantes occur modifications in fabrics how much; it had increase of the absorption of corante in the regions treated mainly in continuous processes of dyeing good pigment tack occurred in treat polyester fabrics; they do not occur alteration of the mechanical properties (resistance the traction and allonge) in the treated samples. / Doutorado / Ciencia e Tecnologia de Materiais / Doutor em Engenharia Química

Textilindustrin har under de senaste åren vidtagit drastiska åtgärder för att ställa om till en mer hållbar industri och därav möta målen för Agenda 2030. Denna undersökning syftar till att förbättra den resurssnåla hydrauliska sprayteknikens infärgning på ullvävar med hjälp av två resurssnåla förbehandlingar, plasmateknologi och ultraljudsbad. Färgklasser som används är syrafärg och reaktivfärg. Efter litteratursökning har försök utfärdats för att optimera de båda metoderna med ändamål att en mer intensiv och jämnt fördelad färg ska framträda. Inställningar gällande både ultraljudsbehandlingen och plasmateknologin diskuteras såväl som möjligheten till att effektivisera färgrecepten. Resultaten presenteras efter utförda tester på vätbarhet och färgmätningar innefattandes färgförändring och färgstyrka. Underlagen för signifikanta skillnader är bristfälliga men vissa tendenser på förbättring gällande alla avseenden kan urskiljas, dock utan slutsats om optimala inställningar. Bäst effekt återfinns i färgstyrkan för båda behandlingarna oavsett färgklass. Tas däremot alla tester i beaktande dras slutsatsen att plasmabehandlingen bäst möter de optimala egenskaperna som ullvävarna bör anta för en godtagbar infärgning. Vätbarhet, som syftar till materialets hydrofilitet, visar på betydligt bättre resultat för de plasmabehandlade proverna än för ultraljudsbehandlade, dock inte i den mån för att tillgodose problemet. Trots detta har de båda förbehandlingarna potential till att uppfylla syftet med studien, men ytterligare forskning och vidare tester krävs för att kunna implementera dessa i industrin. / In recent years, the textile industry has taken drastic measures to transition to a more sustainable industry and thus meet the goals of the 2030 Agenda. This study aims to improve the resource efficient hydraulic spray dyeing technique on wool fabrics using two resource efficient pretreatments: plasma technology and ultrasonic bath. The dyes used are acid dyes and reactive dyes. After a literature review, lab tests have been conducted to optimize both methods with the aim of producing a more intense and evenly distributed colour. The settings of both the ultrasonic and the plasma treatment are discussed as well as the possibility of streamlining the colour recipes. The results are presented after performing wettability tests and colour measurements including colour change and colour strength. There is no evidence for significant differences but tendencies for improvement in all aspects can be differenciated, however without a conclusion on optimal settings. The best effect is found in regards the colour strength for both treatments irrespective of dye class. However, if all tests are taken into account, it can be concluded that the plasma treatment meets the optimum properties that wool fabrics should adopt for an acceptable dyeing. Wettability, which refers to the hydrophilicity of the material, shows significantly better results for the plasma treated samples than for the ultrasonic treated ones, although not to the extent of satisfying the problem. Nevertheless, both pretreatments have the potential to fulfill the purpose of the study, but further research and testing is required to implement them in the industry.

Thesis (MSc (Chemistry and Polymer Science))--University of Stellenbosch, 2006. / Dyeing has an influence on the characteristic properties of wool fibres. This can result in changes in the final properties of the fibre including fibre elasticity, fibre strength and breaking elongation of the wool fibres, especially in the case of dark colours. Damage that occurs to the fibre surface due to the action of acid, alkali, dyestuff, water, heat, and mechanical stress during the dyeing process can thus have an affect on the fibre breaking elongation and the fibre strength. The aim of this project was to assess the effect of dyeing with different colours (ranging from light to dark) on the surface of wool fibres using atomic force microscopy (AFM). The results indicated that four different types of surface damage can be discerned: scale raising, scale chipping, fluting and pitting. The findings also indicate that the surface damage to the fibres was greater and more noticeable (especially the scale raising) on fibres dyed with dark colours than to fibres dyed with light colours. The same applied to the fibre strength and elongation, where generally the fibre breaking extension and the breaking load was smaller in the case of darker colours. The effect of dyeing with different colour shades on the fibre surface was observed with AFM. Several characteristic scale parameters of a statistical significant number of dyed and undyed fibres were measured in order to determine the surface damage caused by dyeing. The correlation between the surface damage, observed by AFM, and the loss in tensile strength and fibre elongation, determined by tensile tests, were investigated. This was done in order to determine the effect of the cuticle damage on the tensile stress/strain behaviour. The results show that AFM is a viable tool to study the effects of different dyes on the fibre surface and for detecting surface modifications with great accuracy. It was found that dyeing with dark colours caused greater damage to the surface than light colours, and it was possible to distinguish different lightness areas, which could be regarded as light and dark colours.

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Sherry J. Haar / This study was based on the concept of slow design, proposed after the slow food movement. The idea of slowing down production processes and increasing product quality and value suggests an antidote to the fast cycle of the fashion industry. Slow design supports two principals, inheriting tradition and maintaining eco-efficiency, which guided this project. Inheriting tradition is an expression that explores ways to sustain lost art and traditional heritage in our daily lives, as well as develop products that establish personal meaning for the consumer. Maintaining eco-efficiency of product production involves utilization of eco-friendly materials and sustainable approaches to aid in developing a healthier and cleaner ecosystem. The overall goal of this design research was to celebrate and sustain the spiritual and material civilization of the Chinese culture by creating a modern artistic interpretation of Chinese traditional arts using an environmentally conscious approach that was applicable to apparel design. This research created modern surface design on a group of garments from traditional Chinese Su Xiu embroidery, physical resist techniques, and natural dyes. This practice-based research utilized the paradigm of naturalistic inquiry to guide the stages of this project. A progressive design process was adopted in response to the unexpected events in the final artifact development. In the design exploration stage, a color library was created to provide the color story for the final artifacts. Basic Su Xiu embroidery stitches and traditional physical resist techniques were sampled with selected flosses and fabrics. Various samples were critiqued and analyzed to develop three unique techniques from characteristics of traditional Chinese Su Xiu embroidery, physical resist techniques (Zha Jiao, Feng Jiao, pole- wrapping, and Jia Xie), using natural dyeing techniques with woad and madder. Natural dye findings included using madder to overdye woad to adjust or reverse colors and that woad overpowered the effects of iron and acid premordants. The outcome resulted in a water-inspired series of three garments that showed evidence of simplified traditional techniques with reduced production time, energy, and dyeing material while encompassing elements of traditional art using a modern aesthetic. The designs and process were presented in a public exposition.

Atualmente, os corantes naturais vêm ganhando maior interesse da sociedade, fazendo crescer um novo nicho de mercado, que valoriza produtos obtidos de matériasprimas naturais, devido aos menores danos causados à saúde humana e ao meio ambiente. Uma fonte potencial para obtenção de corantes encontra-se na operação industrial da obtenção de óleo essencial de folhas de eucalipto. Trata-se de um resíduo líquido gerado na etapa de destilação das folhas, mediante o emprego de vapor d´água. Um grande volume de extrato é gerado e descartado como efluente do processo. O Brasil é um dos principais produtores mundiais de óleo de folhas de eucalipto, sobretudo de Corymbia citriodora (ex Eucalyptus citriodora), havendo, desse modo, importante potencial de exploração do efluente gerado na destilação das folhas como matéria-prima. Contando com o apoio de uma empresa do setor de produção desse óleo, pretendeu-se avaliar o potencial desse extrato como corante natural, visando o tingimento de tecidos de algodão. Para caracterização do resíduo efluente e do corante natural dele obtido, foram realizadas avaliações físicas e químicas, tais como: teor de sólidos, pH, densidade, teor de taninos condensados e medição de cor mediante análises espectrofotométricas. Na avaliação do potencial do resíduo efluente como corante natural, foi realizado um estudo para determinação do método de tingimento de tecidos de algodão, através de diversos tratamentos que incluíram a alteração das variáveis de temperatura, tempo e concentração do corante natural. Nos tecidos tingidos, foi avaliada a solidez de cor à luz de arco de xenônio e à lavagem, através das normas da ABNT da CB 17 - Têxteis e Vestuário. O resíduo efluente e o corante natural apresentaram ambos pH ácido, teor de sólidos totais de 3,4 e 48,1 e teor de taninos condensados de 0,6 e 10,9 %, respectivamente. Em relação à cor dos extratos, ambos refletem a cor marrom. O resíduo efluente possui maiores valores de L*, a* e b* que o corante natural, e este aproxima-se da cor preta, devido aos valores de a* e b* serem próximos a zero. Os resultados obtidos no processo para a determinacao do método de tingimento, apresentaram uma grande variação entre os tratamentos propostos. A propriedade que mais variou nas cores dos tecidos tingidos foi o L*. Os valores de E* também variaram entre os tratamentos, sendo que, apenas o tratamento 9 foi considerado similar à referência 8, para essa propriedade. No tocante aos resultados de solidez de lavagem, as notas de alteração de cor foram de 3-4 para ambas as concentrações de corante nos tecidos tingidos. O manchamento do tecido multifibras foi, em geral, maior que 4 para ambas as concentrações. Para solidez de cor à luz, os tecidos tingidos tiveram alteração na ordem de 2-3 e 3, para concentração de 10% e 50 %, respectivamente. Em geral, os resultados de solidez demonstraram que o corante natural atingiu notas aceitáveis à industria têxtil e que o corante natural obtido a partir do resíduo efluente de folhas de C. citriodora possui potencial de uso no tingimento de algodão. / Currently, natural dyes are gaining interest in the society, creating a new market niche that values products obtained from natural raw materials, due to less damage to human health and the environment. A potential source for obtaining dye lies in industrial operation to obtain essential oil from eucalyptus leaves. It is a liquid waste generated in the distillation of the leaves, using water steam. A large volume of extract is generated and disposed as effluent of the process. Brazil is one of the worlds main producers of oil from eucalyptus leaves, especially Corymbia citriodora (formerly Eucalyptus), and there is, thus, significant potential for exploration of the effluent generated in the distillation of the leaves as raw material. With the support of a company in the oil production, it aimed to evaluate the potential of this extract as a natural dye, aiming at dyeing cotton. The characterization of waste effluent and natural dyestuff obtained was evaluated in terms of physical and chemical properties, such as total solids content, pH, density, condensed tannins content and color measurement by spectrophotometric analysis. In assessing the potential of the waste effluent as a natural dye, a study was conducted to determine the method of dyeing cotton, through various treatments which included changing variables such as temperature, time and concentration of natural dyestuff. In the dyed fabrics, it was evaluated the fastness properties of color in the light of a xenon arc and washing through the norms of the ABNT CB 17 - Textiles and Clothing. Both the waste effluent and the natural dyestuff presented an acid pH, total solids content of 3.4% and 48.1% and condensed tannin content of 0.6% and 10.9% respectively. Regarding the color of the extracts, both shown the brown color. The waste effluent had higher values of L*, a* b* than the natural dyestuff, and this was approximately to the black color, because the values of L*, a* b* were close to zero. The property with the larger variation in the colors of dyed fabrics was the L*. The values of E* also varied between treatments, with only treatment 9 was considered similar to reference 8, for this property. Concerning the results of washing fastness, the notes of color change were 3-4 for both concentrations of dye in dyed fabrics. The staining of the multi-fiber fabric was generally greater than 4 for both concentrations. For color fastness properties in light, dyed fabrics have the notes changed in the order of 2-3 and 3 for the concentrations 10% and 50%, respectively. In general, solidity results showed that natural dyestuff reached the acceptable notes for textile industry and the natural dyestuff obtained from waste effluent leaves of C. citriodora has a potential use as natural dyestuff in dyeing cotton.

by Chu Kwong-young. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1989. / Bibliography: leaves 94-96.