The further usage of vegetable and plant waste from juice pressing industry as textile dyes is presented in this thesis. The thesis is focused on β-carotene (C40H56) dyestuff extracted from orange peel and carrot residue. The three organic solvents; ethyl acetate, petroleum ether and hexane/acetone (1:1 v/v) were used for the extraction. The analysis of the extract was done by RP-HPLC with a C18 column. The yield and the purity of the extracted β-carotene were determined. The highest yield was achieved with petroleum ether whereas the other two solvents were nearly as good. The highest and purest amount on β-carotene was found in the extracts of carrots. The dyeing process was continued with β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel and carrot residue extracted from 27 g of residue on 0,8 g cotton in the dyeing ratio 1:50. Unmordant and post mordanted bleached and mercerized cotton fabric was dyed. 10% alum of the weight fraction of cotton was used as mordant. Colour measurements (K/S, C*, L*, a*, b*, h and ΔE) and fastness properties as light- (ISO-Norm B02) and wash fastness (ISO 105 – C) were tested. Fair light fastness grades were achieved by β-carotene dyestuff of orange peel residue dyed on cotton fabric. Poorer were the grades for β-carotene dyestuff of carrot residue for both unmordanted and mordanted samples. The wash fastness couldn’t achieve reasonable results neither for β-carotene dyestuff from carrots nor orange peel residue, dyed on cotton fabric. / Program: Master programme in Textile Engineering

Thesis. 1977. M.S.--Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Dept. of Chemistry. / MICROFICHE COPY AVAILABLE IN ARCHIVES AND SCIENCE. / Includes bibliographical references. / M.S.

Includes photographs of project. / Digitized by Kansas Correctional Industries

Esse trabalho objetivou investigar o potencial dos extratos aquosos das cascas de barbatimão (Stryphnodendron adstringens (Mart.) Coville) e sangra dágua (Croton urucurana Baill.) como corante natural têxtil. Os extratos foram caracterizados quanto ao pH, o teor de sólidos totais e a estabilidade no armazenamento. Os extratos foram liofilizados e avaliados por espectroscopia no infravermelho com transformada de Fourier (FTIR), termogravimetria (TG) e calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC). Foram realizados experimentos preliminares de tingimento em tecidos multifibra e em diferentes concentrações dos extratos. A partir desses experimentos, foram definidas as variáveis temperatura, tempo e concentração do extrato para o estudo do tingimento por planejamento experimental 2³, em tecidos 100 % algodão e 100 % lã. Os tecidos tingidos em condição otimizada, sem e com mordentes metálicos, foram avaliados quanto à cor, a solidez de cor à luz, à lavagem, à fricção e ao suor. Os efluentes foram coletados e caracterizados quanto ao pH, turbidez, sólidos totais dissolvidos (STD), oxigênio dissolvido, demanda bioquímica de oxigênio (DBO), demanda química de oxigênio (DQO) e teores de ferro e alumínio dissolvidos. Foram conduzidos ensaios bacteriológicos nos extratos aquosos, etanólicos e liofilizados e nos tecidos tingidos. Os resultados das análises por FTIR indicaram a presença de taninos, lignina e celulose nos extratos. Pelo estudo de estabilidade os extratos possuem duração de 42 dias. Nas análises por TG, os extratos obtiveram perda de massa total similares e não geraram alteração na degradação dos tecidos tingidos. Na análise por DSC os extratos obtiveram picos endotérmico e exotérmixo em temperaturas próximas. As melhores condições para o tingimento dos tecidos avaliados é em 98 °C, por 60 min e na concentração de 100 % do extrato. A solidez de cor dos tecidos tingidos variou de baixa a excelente. Os extratos liofilizados apresentaram propriedades antibacterianas. Os efluentes apresentaram valores de STD, DBO, DQO e alumínio e ferro dissolvidos acima dos limites determinados pela legislação nacional. De modo geral, os resultados obtidos indicam que os extratos das cascas de barbatimão e sangra dágua são promissores para serem utilizados como corantes naturais têxteis / This research aimed to investigate the potential of aqueous extracts of barbatimão (Stryphnodendron adstringens (Mart.) Coville) and sangra dágua (Croton urucurana Baill.) bark as natural textile dyes. The extracts were characterized for pH, total solids content and storage stability. The extracts were lyophilized and evaluated by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), thermogravimetry (TG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Preliminary dyeing experiments were carried out on multifiber fabrics and at different extracts concentrations. From these experiments, the variables temperature, time and concentration of the extract for the study of dyeing by experimental design 2³ in 100 % cotton and 100 % wool fabrics were defined. Fabrics dyed in optimized condition, using metal mordants and with no mordents, were evaluated by colorimetry, color fastness to light, wash, rubbing and perspiration. The effluents were collected and characterized by pH, turbidity, total dissolved solids (TDS), dissolved oxygen, biochemical oxygen demand (BOD), chemical oxygen demand (COD) and dissolved iron and aluminum contents. Bacteriological tests were conducted on aqueous, ethanolic and lyophilized extracts and on dyed fabrics. The results of the FTIR analysis indicated the presence of tannins, lignin and cellulose in the extracts. By the stability study were found that the extracts have a duration of 42 days. In the TG analyzes, the extracts obtained similar total mass loss and did not generate alteration in the degradation of the dyed fabrics. In the DSC analysis the extracts obtained endothermic and exotherm peaks at near temperatures. The optimized dyeing for the evaluated fabrics is at 98 °C for 60 min and at the concentration of 100 % of the extract. The color fastness of the dyed fabrics ranged from low to excellent. Lyophilized extracts showed antibacterial properties. The wastewater showed values of TDS, BOD, COD and aluminum and iron dissolved above the limits determined by national legislation. In general, the results indicate that barbatimão and sangra dágua extracts are promising for use as natural textile dyes

Investigations in Botanical Contact Printing (Where the Light Meets the Trees; Thirteen Variations) explores the process of botanical contact printing on paper, culminating in a series of thirteen handmade artist books. Each of the thirteen books contains a poem from a collection of thirteen poems written by Alice Yousef. Every element of the book: materials, structure, calligraphed text, type of botanical contact print, sometimes the enclosure, responds to the poem, providing a visual interpretation of the written word. The completely different approaches to binding structure in this series intend to not only visually support the text, but also explore the possibilities of botanical contact print imagery in the book form.

This study traces the adaptation of the traditional gathering practices of Anglo/Celtic women to the landscape of Colonial Australia, thus developing a context for contemporary land-based art practices. Traditional gathering practices became one of the important forces that influenced and shaped the work of many women artists in post colonial Australia. Interacting with the landscape on a personal level helped contextualize women's gathering role into a contemporary theme, which linked past knowledge to present day voices. The author's art work is an interpretation of this traditional gathering practice. By relating herbal knowledge to present day concerns, she is able to extend the knowledge of past generations of women gatherers into present day images. The art work is also a diary of experiments, that are concerned with preserving the dye making recipes that have been handed down for generations. These botanical experiments have enabled the author to re-present herbal knowledge that took hundreds of years to glean, and to extend the use of the dyes obtained to create the art works. / Master of Arts (Hons) (Creative Arts)

Textile dyeing and finishing industry uses dryers/tenters for drying and heat-setting fabrics. A very large fraction of the heating value of the fuel consumed in the burner ends up as waste in the dryer exhaust. An initial calculation showed that up to 90% of the energy consumed in the tenter is wasted. Therefore, quantifying the energy waste and determining drying characteristics are vitally important to optimizing the tenter and dryer operations. This research developed a portable off-line gas chromatography-based characterization system to assess the excess energy consumption. For low-demanding heat-setting situations, energy savings can be realized quickly. On the other hand, there are demanding situations where fabric drying represents the production bottleneck. The drying rate may be governed either by the rate of heat transport or by the rate of moisture transport. A mathematical model is being developed that incorporates both these processes. The model parameters are being obtained from bench-scale dryer studies in the laboratories. The model will be validated using production scale data. This will enable one to predict optimization dryer operation strategies.

Supramolecular chemistry covers intermolecular interactions where non-covalent bonds are involved, and many of them are based on host-guest interactions. Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of 6-, 7- or 8-glucose units, which are called alpha-, beta- or gamma-CDs, respectively. They have hydrophobic interior and hydrophilic exterior, and are widely being used as hosts for various organic molecules. The formation of CD inclusion complexes with a variety of dyes has continuously drawn our interests, since CDs are readily available and have ability to include dye molecules altering their properties. The present thesis covers the study of inclusion complexes of CDs and chromophore dyes, largely in two ways; rotaxane and pseudorotaxane. The stable rotaxane structure is achieved with the synthesis of dye rotaxane. The introduction of CD ring around azo chromophore provides a simple way to improve the solubility and stability of azo dye. We have shown that by incorporating proper compounds as a coupler, azo dye rotaxanes can be used as pH indicators and metal ion sensors. We have described the synthesis of novel acetylene dye rotaxane using the Pd-catalyzed reaction of Heck-Cassar-Sonogashira-Hagihara type. Its fluorescence properties in the solid state as well as in solutions are examined and compared with those of free dye. Free dye, which has tetra-carboxylic groups, is found to be highly sensitive to various metal ions, exhibiting high Stern-Volmer constants, K(SV). On the contrary, acetylene dye rotaxane exhibits much less quenching against various quenchers. The appearance of fluorescent anisotropic structure has been observed by the formation of inclusion complex between acetylene dye and gamma-CD. Its structural nature is studied by various techniques, including fluorescence, fluorescence anisotropy, wide angle X-ray scattering (WAXD) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) measurements. Methyl orange, an acid azo dye, forms a dimeric inclusion complex with gamma-CD, resulting in the formation stable anisotropic aggregates. Several other azo dyes are found to form anisotropic supramolecule in the presence of gamma-CD, and their structural characteristic has been discussed in terms of the number and position of solubilizing groups.

Small silver nanoclusters are synthesized using polycytosines as matrices. Different size silver nanoclusters ranging from Ag1 to Ag7 exhibit bright emission maxima at blue (480nm), green (525nm), red (650nm), and IR (720nm) wavelengths with varying the excitation wavelengths. With electrophoresis, correlation of emission with mass spectra, the Ag cluster sizes are identified with blue emitters as Ag5, green emitters as Ag4, red emitters as Ag3, and IR emitters as Ag2. Ag4 and Ag5 appear to be partially oxidized while Ag2 and Ag3 are likely fully reduced. Silver cluster stability and their dynamics are observed from silver clusters encapsulated by polycytosine (Cm:Agn). From length study of polycytosine, the longer the polycytosine is, the more stable the larger clusters such as Ag5 are. In time-dependent optical measurements, isosbestic points are observed from Cm:Agn by converting red and IR species into blue and green species, while in the case of temperature-dependent optical properties, with increasing temperature, the blue (oxidized Ag5) and green (oxidized Ag4) emitters convert into the red (Ag3) and IR (Ag2) emitters. NaCl-dependent optical measurements support the assignments of oxidized and fully reduced silver emitters. Circular dichroism (CD) is used to investigate conformational changes in Cm and Cm:Agn with varying conditions (time, temperature and NaCl) and the studies indicate that no conformational changes in Cm:Agn are observed from the time and temperature, while the conformational changes in Cm:Agn are observed from the NaCl studies. From pH-dependent emission study of Cm:Agn, the silver nanocluster dynamics slow down at high pH. Using confocal microscopy technique, single molecules on IR species, C12:Ag2 are investigated and demonstrate that C12:Ag2 is brighter and more photostable than Cy5 which is known to be one of the best IR dyes. With low excitation power, molecules can be monitored for hours, giving bright blinking free, stable fluorescence. The photophysics of this new dye make it a promising candidate for single molecule studies in biological applications.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Missouri-Columbia, 2000. / Typescript. Vita. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 225-227). Also available on the Internet.