Submitted by Filipe dos Santos (fsantos@pucsp.br) on 2016-09-28T17:29:46Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Maria Augusta da Silveira Mitre.pdf: 2814995 bytes, checksum: a60da22a0e4a060dfc5cbd4ee2b71b65 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-09-28T17:29:46Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Maria Augusta da Silveira Mitre.pdf: 2814995 bytes, checksum: a60da22a0e4a060dfc5cbd4ee2b71b65 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-06-30 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico / This study focuses on the fashion transformations in contemporary times, and more specifically on the fashion cycles. In particular, it assess the hypothesis that the cycles are shortened to the extreme and are no longer closing, establishing a coexistence of styles. Based on the thought of Gilles Lipovetsky, this study also shows that the classical concept of fashion no longer covers all the settings that comprise the modern phenomenon. The choice of this author is due to the greater complexity of his ideas compared to previous theories, and in particular, because of his vision of fashion. This study also draws from the classic reflections of Walter Benjamin on the relationship between fashion and cultural industry in modernity, which is also based on the idea of transience. The concepts of "urban tribes" and “supermarket of style " by Ted Polhemus are also employed. The corpus of this work is embodied in seven panels composed by a selection of Vogue America covers along six decades, from 1950 to 2000. The magazine was chosen because it is a widely distributed vehicle both in the country of origin, the United States, center of contemporary fashion, as in the rest of the world, with regionalized versions, which are available on the Vogue Archive since its first edition in the year of 1892. The documentation provided by Vogue America enables the empirical identification of the main features of contemporary fashion and of its cycles. The methodology is bibliographical and documentary research / O presente estudo debruça-se sobre as transformações da moda na contemporaneidade, detendo-se sobre a questão específica de seus ciclos. Em particular, busca-se verificar a hipótese de que os ciclos se encurtaram ao extremo e já não mais se fecham, estabelecendo uma convivência de estilos. Nesse sentido, e trabalhando principalmente à luz do pensamento de Gilles Lipovetsky, pretende-se mostrar ainda que o conceito clássico de moda já não abarca todas as definições que o fenômeno moderno compreende. A escolha deste autor liga-se à maior complexidade de suas teses em relação àquelas de teóricos anteriores e, notadamente, a sua visão do “efêmero”, tanto mais que é suscetível de ser referida às clássicas reflexões de Walter Benjamin sobre as relações entre moda e indústria cultural na modernidade, também centradas na ideia de efemeridade. Por oportuno, invocamos ainda os conceitos de “tribos urbanas” e de “supermercado de estilos” de Ted Polhemus. O corpus do trabalho materializa-se em sete painéis compostos por uma seleção de capas de Vogue America que recobrem seis décadas, num lapso de tempo que vai de 1950 a 2000. A revista foi escolhida por ser um veículo de ampla distribuição tanto no país de origem, Estados Unidos, o centro nervoso da moda contemporânea, quanto no restante do mundo, com versões regionalizadas, além de oferecer, através do Vogue Archive, todas as edições da revista digitalizadas desde seu lançamento em 1892. A documentação oferecida pela Vogue America possibilita a identificação das características que a moda contemporânea apresenta e sua relação com os ciclos, oferecendo resultados empíricos para a aferição dos mesmos. A metodologia adotada é a pesquisa bibliográfica e documental

This project investigates the relationship between social interactions among marketparticipants and the emergence of cyclical trends in stock markets. Two models aredeveloped to capture the interaction dynamics among individuals within the market:a basic model and a model with a price mechanism. By conducting numerical examplesand systematic simulations, we examine the behavior of these models. Ourfindings reveal that the basic model does not generate cyclical trends in the stockmarket. However, the model incorporating the price mechanism demonstrates theability to create such trends.

This essay is investigating the increasing Swedish garment export during the period 1997-2003. Despite a long-lasting national production decrease and stronger global competition Swedish designed clothing are exported at higher rates than ever. The hypothesis that this increase is due to increased trade and changed production stage specialization is investigated. The theory used to investigate this is basic trade theory including Hecksher-Olin and New Trade theory with a focus on comparative advantage and specialization. This is completed with production theory that is particularly relevant for the garment industry: product and price competition, fashion cycles and vertical specialization. Trade, production and labor data is analyzed according to this and the main results are based on the unit price development: exports had a much higher growth in unit prices than imports. This is indicating that Sweden has a revealed comparative advantage in capital intensive production stages, a fact further supported by high education levels and high production value per worker. The industry has chosen to focus on product competition rather than price competition and has managed to shorten its product cycles in order to better exploit the fashion cycles. In some garment groups the image is more complex and one of the main theories of a design heavy garment such as jeans being the core of the success is revised. The export success is to a large extent due to an increasing specialization in the industry’s strong areas. / Den här uppsatsen undersöker tillväxten av Sveriges export i klädindustrin från 1997-2003. Trots att Sveriges klädproduktion har minskat i flera år och globalisationen tränger sig på så går svenska design plagg på högexport. Vår hypothes är att ökningen härstammar från ökad handel och specialisering i produktionsleden. Teorier vi har använt för att undersöka fenomenet är grundläggande handelsteorier så som Hecksher-Ohlin och New trade theory med fokus på komperativa fördelar och specalisation. Vi har valt att komplettera med produktions theorier som vi känner är relevanta för klädindustrin: produkt och pris konkurrens, mode cykler och vertikal specialisering. Handels-, produktions- och arbetskrafts- statistik har analyserats och huvudresultaten är baserade på utvecklingen av enhetspris: exporten har en högre tillväxt i enhetspris än importen. Detta indikerar att Sverige har en uppenbar komperativ fördel i de kapitalintensiva produktionsleden, detta bekräftas ytterligare genom höga utbildningsnivåer och en hög produktion per arbetare. Den svenska klädindustrin har valt att fokusera mer på produktkonkurrens än priskonkurrens, den har också lyckats med att minska sina produktions cykler för att unyttja marknaden bättre. I en del grupper är bilden mer komplex och en av våra huvudteorier var att jeans stod för stora delar av exportsuccen, denna teori fick vi dock avfärda. Vad vi kom fram till var att stora delar av exportsucceen kommer ifrån en ökning av specialiseringen.

<p>This essay is investigating the increasing Swedish garment export during the period 1997-2003. Despite a long-lasting national production decrease and stronger global competition Swedish designed clothing are exported at higher rates than ever. The hypothesis that this increase is due to increased trade and changed production stage specialization is investigated.</p><p>The theory used to investigate this is basic trade theory including Hecksher-Olin and New Trade theory with a focus on comparative advantage and specialization. This is completed with production theory that is particularly relevant for the garment industry: product and price competition, fashion cycles and vertical specialization.</p><p>Trade, production and labor data is analyzed according to this and the main results are based on the unit price development: exports had a much higher growth in unit prices than imports. This is indicating that Sweden has a revealed comparative advantage in capital intensive production stages, a fact further supported by high education levels and high production value per worker. The industry has chosen to focus on product competition rather than price competition and has managed to shorten its product cycles in order to better exploit the fashion</p><p>cycles. In some garment groups the image is more complex and one of the main theories of a design heavy garment such as jeans being the core of the success is revised. The export success is to a large extent due to an increasing specialization in the industry’s strong areas.</p> / <p>Den här uppsatsen undersöker tillväxten av Sveriges export i klädindustrin från 1997-2003. Trots att Sveriges klädproduktion har minskat i flera år och globalisationen tränger sig på så går svenska design plagg på högexport. Vår hypothes är att ökningen härstammar från ökad handel och specialisering i produktionsleden.</p><p>Teorier vi har använt för att undersöka fenomenet är grundläggande</p><p>handelsteorier så som Hecksher-Ohlin och New trade theory med fokus på</p><p>komperativa fördelar och specalisation. Vi har valt att komplettera med produktions theorier som vi känner är relevanta för klädindustrin: produkt och pris konkurrens, mode cykler och vertikal specialisering.</p><p>Handels-, produktions- och arbetskrafts- statistik har analyserats och</p><p>huvudresultaten är baserade på utvecklingen av enhetspris: exporten har en högre tillväxt i enhetspris än importen. Detta indikerar att Sverige har en uppenbar komperativ fördel i de kapitalintensiva produktionsleden, detta bekräftas ytterligare genom höga utbildningsnivåer och en hög produktion per arbetare. Den svenska klädindustrin har valt att fokusera mer på produktkonkurrens än priskonkurrens, den har också lyckats med att minska sina produktions cykler för att unyttja marknaden bättre. I en del grupper är bilden mer komplex och en av våra huvudteorier var att jeans stod för stora delar av exportsuccen, denna teori fick vi dock avfärda. Vad vi kom fram till var att stora delar av exportsucceen kommer ifrån en ökning av specialiseringen.</p>

A central area of research in linguistics is the study of changes in vocabulary over time, be it over historical time periods or faster changes within generations. One contributing factor driving such fast changes could be “fashion cycles”, as this is a very general cultural phenomenon. Here, results are reported from a corpus study investigating trends over time in the use of cyber as the first part of compound nouns, and of alternatives which carry a similar meaning, such as e- as short for electronic. It is found that cyber was commonly used in the time period 1995-2004. Usage then strongly declined, but there was a new peak in popularity in the last year of available data (2012). Interestingly, cyber was initially used in positively charged or neutral contexts (e.g. cyberspace), but in recent years mostly in negatively charged words such as cyberbullying or cyber warfare. The hypothesis that cyber has been replaced with e- was partially supported (in particular in the case of e-mail, but e-books is another prominent example of a recent rising trend in vocabulary). However, in most other contexts usage of e- actually peaked a few years before the last years of the available corpus data. In general, results were consistent with “fashion cycles” in that the popularity of using cyber or e-, and in particular of specific words including these compound noun parts, seems to come and go rapidly over time. Interestingly use of cyber was seen mostly in negative contexts during later time periods. No such change was apparent in the use of e-. An emerging hypothesis partially supported by the data is that words in commercial contexts (e.g. cyber-business, e-business) rapidly lose their positive charge as they become common and are replaced by other, more novel and more fashionable words. Corpus linguistics is a very powerful tool for investigating such patterns of change in the popularity of words, and the processes behind them.