A temática da presente dissertação relaciona-se, especialmente, à atual conjuntura do trabalho e suas implicações à vida (BAUMAN, 2007, 2008a, 2008b; DELEUZE, 1998; GAULEJAC, 2007; GORZ, 2005; GUATTARI; ROLNIK, 1996; LAZZARATO; NEGRI, 2001; SENNETT, 2009), à especificidade do trabalho de modelos de moda (LIBARDI, 2004; LIPOVESTKY, 2007, 2009; PEREIRA, 2008; WISSINGER, 2007, 2009), e à expatriação (CERDIN, 2011; FREITAS, 2000, 2001, 2006, 2009; FREITAS; DANTAS, 2011; DAVOINE; RAVASI; CUDRÉ-MAUROUX, 2011; GONZÁLEZ; OLIVEIRA, 2011; REGO; CUNHA, 2009). Este estudo objetivou verificar e analisar como a estratégia existencial consumista se apresenta e se modula na perspectiva de uma estratégia de viver a vida de modelo de moda na expatriação. Para tanto, caracterizou-se como uma pesquisa exploratória qualitativa e contou com a participação de treze modelos de moda brasileiros que trabalham ou já trabalharam em situação de expatriação. Além disso, participaram como informantes-chave dois bookers que trabalham agenciando modelos. A coleta de dados ocorreu por meio de entrevista semiestruturada. Ademais, solicitou-se que cada modelo selecionasse uma fotografia sua que significasse algo de seu trabalho realizado durante a expatriação e falasse sobre ela. A apresentação e análise dos resultados comportaram três partes permeáveis entre si. Elas dizem respeito à inserção na profissão, aos incentivos e aos discursos que fomentam a vida anunciada de modelo de moda; à incorporação de um modelo de modelo de moda através da vida modelada; e, por fim, tendo em vista as categorias anteriores buscou-se o que, de modo articulado, permitisse dizer algo da estratégia de viver a vida de modelo de moda na expatriação. Esta dissertação possibilitou perceber que a expatriação se constitui como uma forma de legitimação na carreira de modelo de moda e mostrou-se como o acontecimento em que o nome próprio é chancelado como uma marca. / The theme of this present dissertation relates especially to the current labor conjuncture and its implication to life (BAUMAN, 2007, 2008a, 2008b; DELEUZE, 1998; GORZ, 2005; GUATTARI; ROLNIK, 1996; LAZZARATO; NEGRI, 2001; SENNETT, 2009), to the specificity of fashion models labor (LIBARDI, 2004; LIPOVESTKY, 2007, 2009; PEREIRA, 2008; WISSINGER, 2007, 2009) and to expatriation (CERDIN, 2011; FREITAS, 2000, 2001, 2006, 2009; FREITAS; DANTAS, 2011; DAVOINE; RAVASI; CUDRÉ-MAUROUX, 2011; GONZÁLEZ; OLIVEIRA, 2011; REGO; CUNHA, 2009). The objective of this study was to verify and analyze how the existential consumerist strategy presents itself and how it is modulated in a perspective of living the fashion model live on expatriation. This way, it was characterized as an exploratory quality research and was attended by thirteen Brazilian fashion models who worked or have worked in an expatriation situation. In addition, two bookers that work handling models participated as key informants. The data collection occurred through semi-structured interview. Furthermore, it was requested that each model selected a picture of yours that meant something to the job done during the expatriation and that they talked about it. The presentation and analysis of the results supported three permeable parts among themselves. They discuss about the insertion in the profession, the incentives and speeches that foment the announced fashion models life; to the fashion model incorporation through modeled life; and, finally, considering the previous categories sought what, in an articled way, allowed to say something about the strategy of living the fashion model life on expatriation. This dissertation enabled to realize that expatriation constitutes as a form of legitimation in a fashion model career and as the event in which the own name is set as a trademark.

A temática da presente dissertação relaciona-se, especialmente, à atual conjuntura do trabalho e suas implicações à vida (BAUMAN, 2007, 2008a, 2008b; DELEUZE, 1998; GAULEJAC, 2007; GORZ, 2005; GUATTARI; ROLNIK, 1996; LAZZARATO; NEGRI, 2001; SENNETT, 2009), à especificidade do trabalho de modelos de moda (LIBARDI, 2004; LIPOVESTKY, 2007, 2009; PEREIRA, 2008; WISSINGER, 2007, 2009), e à expatriação (CERDIN, 2011; FREITAS, 2000, 2001, 2006, 2009; FREITAS; DANTAS, 2011; DAVOINE; RAVASI; CUDRÉ-MAUROUX, 2011; GONZÁLEZ; OLIVEIRA, 2011; REGO; CUNHA, 2009). Este estudo objetivou verificar e analisar como a estratégia existencial consumista se apresenta e se modula na perspectiva de uma estratégia de viver a vida de modelo de moda na expatriação. Para tanto, caracterizou-se como uma pesquisa exploratória qualitativa e contou com a participação de treze modelos de moda brasileiros que trabalham ou já trabalharam em situação de expatriação. Além disso, participaram como informantes-chave dois bookers que trabalham agenciando modelos. A coleta de dados ocorreu por meio de entrevista semiestruturada. Ademais, solicitou-se que cada modelo selecionasse uma fotografia sua que significasse algo de seu trabalho realizado durante a expatriação e falasse sobre ela. A apresentação e análise dos resultados comportaram três partes permeáveis entre si. Elas dizem respeito à inserção na profissão, aos incentivos e aos discursos que fomentam a vida anunciada de modelo de moda; à incorporação de um modelo de modelo de moda através da vida modelada; e, por fim, tendo em vista as categorias anteriores buscou-se o que, de modo articulado, permitisse dizer algo da estratégia de viver a vida de modelo de moda na expatriação. Esta dissertação possibilitou perceber que a expatriação se constitui como uma forma de legitimação na carreira de modelo de moda e mostrou-se como o acontecimento em que o nome próprio é chancelado como uma marca. / The theme of this present dissertation relates especially to the current labor conjuncture and its implication to life (BAUMAN, 2007, 2008a, 2008b; DELEUZE, 1998; GORZ, 2005; GUATTARI; ROLNIK, 1996; LAZZARATO; NEGRI, 2001; SENNETT, 2009), to the specificity of fashion models labor (LIBARDI, 2004; LIPOVESTKY, 2007, 2009; PEREIRA, 2008; WISSINGER, 2007, 2009) and to expatriation (CERDIN, 2011; FREITAS, 2000, 2001, 2006, 2009; FREITAS; DANTAS, 2011; DAVOINE; RAVASI; CUDRÉ-MAUROUX, 2011; GONZÁLEZ; OLIVEIRA, 2011; REGO; CUNHA, 2009). The objective of this study was to verify and analyze how the existential consumerist strategy presents itself and how it is modulated in a perspective of living the fashion model live on expatriation. This way, it was characterized as an exploratory quality research and was attended by thirteen Brazilian fashion models who worked or have worked in an expatriation situation. In addition, two bookers that work handling models participated as key informants. The data collection occurred through semi-structured interview. Furthermore, it was requested that each model selected a picture of yours that meant something to the job done during the expatriation and that they talked about it. The presentation and analysis of the results supported three permeable parts among themselves. They discuss about the insertion in the profession, the incentives and speeches that foment the announced fashion models life; to the fashion model incorporation through modeled life; and, finally, considering the previous categories sought what, in an articled way, allowed to say something about the strategy of living the fashion model life on expatriation. This dissertation enabled to realize that expatriation constitutes as a form of legitimation in a fashion model career and as the event in which the own name is set as a trademark.

A temática da presente dissertação relaciona-se, especialmente, à atual conjuntura do trabalho e suas implicações à vida (BAUMAN, 2007, 2008a, 2008b; DELEUZE, 1998; GAULEJAC, 2007; GORZ, 2005; GUATTARI; ROLNIK, 1996; LAZZARATO; NEGRI, 2001; SENNETT, 2009), à especificidade do trabalho de modelos de moda (LIBARDI, 2004; LIPOVESTKY, 2007, 2009; PEREIRA, 2008; WISSINGER, 2007, 2009), e à expatriação (CERDIN, 2011; FREITAS, 2000, 2001, 2006, 2009; FREITAS; DANTAS, 2011; DAVOINE; RAVASI; CUDRÉ-MAUROUX, 2011; GONZÁLEZ; OLIVEIRA, 2011; REGO; CUNHA, 2009). Este estudo objetivou verificar e analisar como a estratégia existencial consumista se apresenta e se modula na perspectiva de uma estratégia de viver a vida de modelo de moda na expatriação. Para tanto, caracterizou-se como uma pesquisa exploratória qualitativa e contou com a participação de treze modelos de moda brasileiros que trabalham ou já trabalharam em situação de expatriação. Além disso, participaram como informantes-chave dois bookers que trabalham agenciando modelos. A coleta de dados ocorreu por meio de entrevista semiestruturada. Ademais, solicitou-se que cada modelo selecionasse uma fotografia sua que significasse algo de seu trabalho realizado durante a expatriação e falasse sobre ela. A apresentação e análise dos resultados comportaram três partes permeáveis entre si. Elas dizem respeito à inserção na profissão, aos incentivos e aos discursos que fomentam a vida anunciada de modelo de moda; à incorporação de um modelo de modelo de moda através da vida modelada; e, por fim, tendo em vista as categorias anteriores buscou-se o que, de modo articulado, permitisse dizer algo da estratégia de viver a vida de modelo de moda na expatriação. Esta dissertação possibilitou perceber que a expatriação se constitui como uma forma de legitimação na carreira de modelo de moda e mostrou-se como o acontecimento em que o nome próprio é chancelado como uma marca. / The theme of this present dissertation relates especially to the current labor conjuncture and its implication to life (BAUMAN, 2007, 2008a, 2008b; DELEUZE, 1998; GORZ, 2005; GUATTARI; ROLNIK, 1996; LAZZARATO; NEGRI, 2001; SENNETT, 2009), to the specificity of fashion models labor (LIBARDI, 2004; LIPOVESTKY, 2007, 2009; PEREIRA, 2008; WISSINGER, 2007, 2009) and to expatriation (CERDIN, 2011; FREITAS, 2000, 2001, 2006, 2009; FREITAS; DANTAS, 2011; DAVOINE; RAVASI; CUDRÉ-MAUROUX, 2011; GONZÁLEZ; OLIVEIRA, 2011; REGO; CUNHA, 2009). The objective of this study was to verify and analyze how the existential consumerist strategy presents itself and how it is modulated in a perspective of living the fashion model live on expatriation. This way, it was characterized as an exploratory quality research and was attended by thirteen Brazilian fashion models who worked or have worked in an expatriation situation. In addition, two bookers that work handling models participated as key informants. The data collection occurred through semi-structured interview. Furthermore, it was requested that each model selected a picture of yours that meant something to the job done during the expatriation and that they talked about it. The presentation and analysis of the results supported three permeable parts among themselves. They discuss about the insertion in the profession, the incentives and speeches that foment the announced fashion models life; to the fashion model incorporation through modeled life; and, finally, considering the previous categories sought what, in an articled way, allowed to say something about the strategy of living the fashion model life on expatriation. This dissertation enabled to realize that expatriation constitutes as a form of legitimation in a fashion model career and as the event in which the own name is set as a trademark.

The last decade has seen the rise of a new trinity of supermodels, the so-called Insta-girls, Kendall Jenner, Gigi, and Bella Hadid. Besides mastering the art of digital self-promotion, they belong to famous Californian families with strong ties to show business. Their impressive climb to the top has made them the most followed and paid models in the fashion industry. Nevertheless, their role in contemporary visual and celebrity culture has been scarcely inquired about by academics. The aim of this thesis is to explore through a critical visual analysis of their representations how and if the newfound role of social media as a source of stardom is challenging established myths of celebrity and ingrained high fashion beauty ideals. Firstly, through the use of Pierre Bourdieu’s theory of the ‘Field’ and Olivier Driessens’ schema of ‘Celebritization’, it is analyzed how the Insta-girls have designed their personas, their public mask, mimicking previous templates of the fashion modeling field. Secondly, through the lenses of Sandra Lee Bartky and Susan Bordo, two feminist theorists who have assessed and discussed how women regulate and discipline their bodies, this thesis shows how the Insta-girls, despite their celebrity status, have been scrutinized according to the rigid body standards required of fashion models.

There appears to be little doubt about the nature of the relationship between the fashion model and the young girl in contemporary Western culture. Dominant literature, emerging from medico-psychological and feminist research, situates the model as a disorderly influence, imbued with the capacity to infect and, hence, distort the healthy minds and bodies of 'suggestible' young girls. Opposing these perspectives is a smaller, more recent body of literature, emerging from post-feminist work that argues that the model-girl relationship is a delightful influence. Thus, the contemporary field of scholarship reveals an increasingly dichotomous way of thinking about fashion model influence: the model influences young girls in ways that are disorderly or delightful, never both. This thesis argues that to assume that the model-girl encounter is 'neatly' disorderly or delightful is shifty at best. It suggests that, in their rush to judge the fashion model as either pernicious or pleasurable, existing literature fails to account for the precision with which young girls know the fashion model. Using poststructuralist theory, the thesis argues that 'influence' may be more usefully thought of as a discursive effect, which may produce a range of effects for better and worse. Following Foucault (1972), fashion model influence is interrogated as a regime of truth about the model-girl encounter, constituted discursively under specific social, cultural and historical conditions. In so doing, the thesis makes different sense of fashion model influence, and questions influence as an independently-existing 'force' that bears down on vulnerable young girls. Drawing on a poststructural conceptual architecture, this thesis re-conceptualises the model-girl encounter as a pedagogical relationship focused on the (ideal) female body. It suggests that the fashion model, as an authoritative embodied pedagogue, transmits knowledge about 'ideal' feminine bodily conduct to the young girl, as attentive gazing apprentice. Fashion model influence is re-interrogated as the product of certain forms of disciplinary training (Foucault, 1977a), with young girls learning a discursive knowledge about how to discipline the body in ways that are properly feminine. Such a perspective departs from the notion that fashion model influence is necessarily disorderly or delightful, and makes possible a re-reading of influence in terms of learning outcomes. A problematic arises conceptualising the fashion model in this way. To consider the model as a 'good' teacher breaches a number of discursive rules for best pedagogical practice in postmodern times: She is not a pedagogue of the mind; she is not student-centred, facilitative, asexual, interpersonally engaged, relational, or authentic. To create a space for thinking differently about the model as a teacher, then, the thesis looks to ancient historical times and places in which female-to-female and body-to-body pedagogies were practised and understood. The first phase of the research project embedded in this thesis defamiliarises pedagogical work using historical texts from ancient Greece. It examines in particular the erotically embodied pedagogical relationships conducted between older, authoritative elite prostitutes known as hetairae, and their younger female apprentices. The discursive rules governing these pedagogical relationships are examined with a view to diagnosing the model-girl encounter in terms of these rules. These rules are then used to interrogate ethnographic data generated through observation of the model-girl encounter in situ in a modelling course, and through focus group interviews with groups of young girls. Working through notions of corporeal embodiment, self as art, desire, discipline, stillness, spectacle, the gaze and the conduct of conduct, the study interrogates the model-girl encounter as a contemporary pedagogical encounter. To avoid reaffirming more traditional binaries, the reading of data is ironic, working within and between binaries such as disorder/delight. Three ironic categories of femininity are produced out of the analysis: unnaturally natural, stompy grace and beautifully grotesque. These categories 'speak' the fragmentation, fissure, contradiction, inconsistency and absurdity that permeate the talk of young girls and model-girl pedagogy in the modelling classroom. Thus, the thesis offers up an analysis of the model-girl encounter that refuses the neatness and uni-dimensionality that characterises existing literature.

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Submitted by Noeme Timbo (noeme.timbo@metodista.br) on 2017-01-26T12:02:47Z No. of bitstreams: 1 GideanaSousa.pdf: 2682729 bytes, checksum: 5ec57ecb335f020e008c123896e1f756 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-01-26T12:02:47Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 GideanaSousa.pdf: 2682729 bytes, checksum: 5ec57ecb335f020e008c123896e1f756 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-09-20 / Conselho Nacional de Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico - CNPq / This dissertation presents the results of research on Silas Malafaia - a well-known lecturer between evangelicals and among non- evangelicals in Brazil that uses the TV feature for about 33 years , where it holds programs with different formats over the years ; and an incisive speech relevant influence on many followers . His preaching condemns abortion , drug use and what sees as increasing the privileges of homosexuals , while he took the theology of prosperity. Using the theory of Mimetic Mechanism René Girard , and studying the context in which it was created and who was related from its beginnings , this research studies the evolution and positioning changes Silas Malafaia and the influence of his desire models. We will analyze in particular the transition to a more conservative theology Assembly of God to join the Positive Confession and Prosperity Theology, and the use of media not only toward Christians, but as a trade tool , which once fought . It started from the hypothesis that Silas Malafaia change his speech and preaching in that it takes as models of desire televangelists American pastors , as Morris Cerullo and Mike Murdock , who work in television media and are considered successful pastors. That the analysis , we differentiate two types of desire models - according to the mimetic desire theory of René Girard - in the life of Silas Malafaia : internal mediation models and external mediation. It is hoped that this work can contribute to the reflections on René Girard 's theory and for studies concerning the Assembleiano Pentecostalism and its various possibilities. / Esta dissertação de mestrado apresenta os resultados da pesquisa sobre Silas Malafaia – um conferencista conhecido entre evangélicos e entre não-evangélicos no Brasil que se utiliza do recurso televisivo há cerca de 33 anos, onde detém programas com formatos diversificados ao longo dos anos; e um discurso incisivo de relevante influência sobre muitos seguidores. Sua pregação condena o aborto, o uso de drogas e o que enxerga como aumento dos privilégios dos homossexuais, ao mesmo tempo em que assumiu a teologia da prosperidade. Usando da teoria do Mecanismo Mimético de René Girard, e estudando o contexto no qual foi criado e com quem se relacionou desde os seus primórdios, esta pesquisa estuda a evolução e mudanças de posicionamento de Silas Malafaia e a influência dos seus modelos de desejo. Analisaremos em particular a sua transição de uma teologia mais conservadora da Assembleia de Deus para adesão à Confissão Positiva e Teologia da Prosperidade, e a utilização da Mídia não apenas voltada para cristãos, mas como ferramenta de comercio, que antes combatia. Parte-se da hipótese de que Silas Malafaia muda seu discurso e pregação na medida em que assume como modelos de desejo pastores norte-americanos teleevangelistas, como Morris Cerullo e Mike Murdock, que atuam na mídia televisiva e são considerados pastores bem-sucedidos. Nessa na análise, diferenciamos dois tipos de modelos de desejo, -- de acordo com a teoria de desejo mimético de René Girard -- na vida de Silas Malafaia: modelos de mediação interna e os de mediação externa. Espera-se que este trabalho possa contribuir para as reflexões sobre a teoria de René Girard e também para estudos concernentes ao Pentecostalismo Assembleiano e suas diversas possibilidades.

Modeller har sedan sent 1800-tal använts för att väcka potentiella konsumenters köplust av olika slags marknadsförda produkter. Modellers påverkan har emellertid en vidare omfattning än så eftersom de främjar och sprider en idealiserad bild av hur män och kvinnor bör se ut. Det finns således en förväntan på modeller att leva upp till samhälleliga skönhetsideal. Hur svenska modeller upplever hur det är att vara sitt eget arbetsredskap, ett objekt, och samtidigt vara ett subjekt är emellertid en relativt outforskad fråga. Syftet med detta arbete är att förstå hur unga svenska kvinnliga modeller upplever och hanterar arbetets villkor att fortlöpande sälja sin kropp och sitt utseende på en skönhetsorienterad marknad och vad detta innebär för deras självbild. För att uppnå syftet har tematiskt öppna intervjuer genomförts med fem yrkesverksamma kvinnliga modeller. Det empiriska materialet har analyserats tematiskt och undersökts genom ett symboliskt interaktionistiskt perspektiv med utgångspunkt i teorier från samma teoretiska tradition, nämligen Erving Goffmans dramaturgiska handlingsteori och Arlie Hochschilds teori om emotionellt arbete. Arbetets resultat visar att intervjupersonerna upplever sitt yrke som omväxlande, glamoröst och en god inkomstkälla samtidigt som det är ett tufft arbete eftersom man som modell blir konstant övervakad av sin modellagentur. Detta därför att de måste uppfylla särskilda estetiska krav vilket inte sällan leder till att de disciplinerar och reglerar sina kroppar på olika sätt. De upplever även att de måste anpassa sin personlighet för att undgå risken att förlora jobb. Likt skyltdockor förväntas de vara okomplicerade, samarbetsvilliga och tysta. För att hantera sina arbetsvillkor och den emotionella ansträngning som dessa medför använder intervjupersonerna sig av olika känslohanteringsstrategier. En drastisk men vanligt förekommande strategi är att intervjupersonerna delar upp sig själva i ett personligt jag och ett modell-jag.