Este trabalho analisa as relações entre os processos de criação nas áreas da Joalheria e da Arquitetura. Desde o esboço, passando pelos desenhos, croquis, maquetes e até as modernas formas de representação computacional, o processo criativo deve levar em conta sempre fatores como expressão de uma visão particular do mundo e referências e condições estéticas, práticas e históricas. Leva-se em conta o caso do arquiteto Frank Gehry, que desenvolveu projetos de renome em ambas as áreas. Observa-se a trajetória dessas áreas, desde seus primórdios, e as soluções encontradas pelo homem, através do tempo, para a interferência nos objetos e nos espaços, a fim de deixar sua marca e proporcionar progressos na vida humana. Por fim, detalham-se as novas tecnologias empregadas nas criações e representações de formas complexas, com destaque para os softwares em 3D, que propiciam a evolução dos projetos com melhora em custos e prazos nos projetos multimilionários na atualidade. / This research presents the relations among the many process of creation in the jewellery and architecture areas. Starting with the outline, passing on the drawings, sketches and getting through the modern ways of computer representation, the creative process must consider the reasons like a private vision of the world, historical references, esthetic conditions and practices. Frank Gehry developed renowned projects in both areas. The trajetory of these areas can be observed since their beginning. The solutions found by the human being through the time, for the interference in the objects and in many places in order to mark and propose every kind of progress for human lives. Lastly, this research details the new tecnologies which were used in creations and in the complex ways of representation, like the 3D softwares, which range the evolution of the projects, together with the improvement in costs and time for the present multimillionaire projects.

A presente dissertação se baseou no percurso da história da arte, para compreender as manifestações da história da joalheria, pois a joia com seu valor material é um patrimônio impregnado de simbologias e de significados estéticos. Este trabalho utilizou a pesquisa histórica, baseada na pesquisa bibliográfica ou de fontes secundárias. Estabeleceu-se um painel cronológico do caminho percorrido pela humanidade para desenvolver a arte da joalheria, desde o seu surgimento, procurando fazer relação entre suas descobertas, necessidades de novos materiais, o aprimoramento de técnicas ou ainda a capacidade de desenvolver habilidades para executá-las. A sua relação com as artes plásticas, que nas últimas décadas levaram a arte e a joia a romper paradigmas. Atualmente, a joia é mais despojada, enfrenta novos desafios como a preocupação com o meio ambiente e a utilização de sementes, madeiras, entre outros materiais naturais, criando objetos com design diferenciado e contemporâneo. / This dissertation is based on the course of art history, to understand the manifestations of the history of jewelry, as the jewel in its material value is a heritage steeped in symbolism and aesthetic meanings. This study used historical research, based on literature or secondary sources. Established a panel chronological path for humanity to develop the art of jewelry, from its inception, seeking to make the relationship between their findings, need for new materials, improvement of techniques or even the ability to develop skills to execute them. His relationship with the arts, which in recent decades have led to art and jewelry to break paradigms. Currently, the jewel is more casual, faces new challenges such as concern for the environment and use of seeds, wood, and other natural materials, creating objects with different design and contemporary.

The thesis named Analysis of Czech export development in chosen field - glass industry, jewellery glass describes a development of glass and ceramics industry in Czech lands and in the Czech Republic. The aim of the thesis is to analyze export development of glass and ceramics products, mainly in the 21st century. Conclusions are based on data of Harmonized System from the Czech Statistical Office. It is clear that the importance of export of glass, jewellery and ceramics is not as high as it used to be before WWII, however, the value of export increased in 2010. The future of the Czech glass-work is represented by orientation to technologically sophisticated products which cannot be easily produced on the cheap Asian markets.

No / Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to explore the role of visible body piercings (VBP) in explaining the extent of self‐reported workplace sexual orientation discrimination. Design/methodology/approach – Using the 2002 wave of the UK Gay Mens’ Sex Survey, OLS and logit equations are estimated to analyse the extent of self‐reported denial of job opportunities. Findings – The possession of visible body piercings is shown to increase the level of discriminatory activity. There is evidence that tongue piercings are the major contributory type of body decoration. The overall effect is seemingly ameliorated for those gay men who engage in more extensive concealment effort with regard to their sexual orientation. Research limitations/implications – The sample is to some extent self‐selecting, which may affect the results. Further studies using alternative methodologies would be required to explore this issue. Practical implications – This paper sheds light on the importance, or otherwise, of presumed visual clues such as body piercing in triggering discriminatory behaviour towards gay men. Originality/value – This is the first study to examine the self‐reported experience of post‐entry discrimination by gay men using a major national survey comprising over 15,000 observations.

Yes / Many hundreds of Bronze Age bronze artefacts are known from excavations in Switzerland, yet the interpretation of production networks from the object find locations remain problematic. It is proposed that the decorative elements used on items, such as ring-jewellery, can be used as elements to assist in the identification of artisanal traditions and ‘schools’, and also regional or community preference and selection of specific designs. Combining the analysis of over 1700 items of ring-jewellery from Switzerland with approaches from network science has facilitated the identification of regional clustering of design elements, comparable with cultural typologies in the area. It is also possible to identify potential instances of cultural differentiation through decoration within the broader regional cultural traditions. The study highlights important facets of bronzework production in the region of Switzerland, while also demonstrating future potential directions which could build upon the European wide dataset of prehistoric bronzework. / Primary research conducted under previous funding at University of Basel, Switzerland – SNF grant

Thesis (MA (VA)(Visual Arts. Jewellery Design))--University of Stellenbosch, 2008. / In this thesis I explore my jewellery practice as a transformative process. I suggest that the handling of material can be described in alchemistic terms as a process that is primarily aimed at the transformation of the alchemist him/herself. This view is applicable to jewellers who employ an alchemistic approach to their own practice. I will demonstrate this point by dividing my exploration into three sections, namely transformation of material (which also entails the transformation of value), transformation of meaning, and finally, the ritualistic process of transformation as a transformative element.

This practice-led research project explores English and French sentimental jewellery of the Victorian period. ‘Sentimental jewellery’ or ‘message jewellery’ denotes jewellery created to function as a tangible expression of feeling between donor and recipient, mediated through complex narratives relating to its exchange. These artefacts codify emotion through use of complex visual languages, employing the symbolic and coded use of gems, human hair, emblems, words and wordplay. The research has expanded to encompass memorial garments known as ‘widows weeds’. The aims of the research have been threefold: firstly, to add to understanding and interpretation of aspects of Victorian sentimental jewellery and associated craft practices; secondly, to explore the metaphors and narratives inherent within them; thirdly, to test the visual and technical possibilities of knowledge thus gained to address human feeling through art. Outcomes take the form of a body of new artwork and a written thesis, which are designed to be mutually informing. Together, they articulate my response to the project’s central question: can consideration of the ‘grammar of sentiment’ at work in Victorian sentimental jewellery yield new possibilities, through fine art practice, for communicating love and loss in the 21st century? The four artworks that are a main output of the research take the forms of: REGARD:LOVEME, an artist’s book exploring gem codes and wordplay; Plocacosmos, a set of hairworking trials; The Cyanotypes, which reflect upon the materiality and aesthetic of the amatory locket; and Widows Weeds, a large format photographic installation, which considers the materiality and lineage of mourning cloth. Collectively, they explore the typology of the sentimental artefact through development of text/image vocabularies that are conceived as providing a ‘grammar of sentiment’ through which to articulate aspects of human feeling. It is this exploration that constitutes my main contribution to knowledge.

Central Asia, crossroads of ancient trade routes known as the Silk Road, absorbed for centuries the pulses of travelling cultural influences and created an environment for the existence of original artistic expression, which can be seen in jewellery making as well. The dissertation thesis deals with analysis of the findings from excavation units and individual pieces of jewellery, in most cases made of gold, which were often largely inspired by the culture of the ancient Mediterranean. The historical - geographic perspective of the work is focused primarily on territory of ancient Bactria and Gandhara - southern part of the former Soviet republics of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, then northern and eastern Afghanistan and northern Pakistan. These areas were in the past centers of military activities and political formations, followed up in many aspects on the Mediterranean traditions. These political formations contributed distinctly to the dissemination and preservation of some elements of ancient cultural heritage in Central Asian architecture, sculpture and other fine arts and crafts. Most jewelry findings come from a fairly turbulent period of the 1st century AD, when the territory of Central Asia saw the progressive formation of Kushan Empire. The main part of the thesis consists of summary of the...

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Thesis (MA)-- Stellenbosch University, 2013. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: This thesis provides a critical discussion of, and motivation for, my jewellery practice, in which fat from the human body is transformed into adornment. Drawing on Julia Kristeva’s theory of ‘abjection’, this research scrutinises the grotesque status of body substances in the modern media, with the intention of changing viewer reactions to these substances from repulsion to aesthetic enjoyment. I consider the influence of popular culture, where idealised bodies are promoted as ‘better’ than non-normative body types, and then consider how (or whether) the abject remainders of the ‘ideal body’ can successfully be refigured as adornment. In order to situate my practical Masters work in the wider field of contemporary avant-garde jewellery practice, I study the work of select jewellers, who also refer to, or use, body substances in critical ways in their work. Through this, I hope to scrutinise both normative notions of the body and of jewellery as adornment. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Hierdie tesis dien as ’n kritiese bespreking van en motivering vir my praktiese juwelierswareontwerp, waarin vet afkomstig van die menslike liggaam verander word in versiering. Die navorsing gebruik Julia Kristeva se teorie van ‘abjection’ om die groteske status wat liggaamstowwe in die moderne media het, uit te pluis, met die doel om die toeskouer se reaksie op hierdie stowwe van afkeer in estetiese genot te verander. Ek oorweeg die invloed van populêre kultuur waarbinne geïdealiseerde liggame as ‘beter’ as nie-normatiewe liggaamstipes aangebied word. Ek kyk verder na hoe (en of) die vernederende (‘abject’) oorblyfsels van die ‘ideale liggaam’ suksesvol as versiering omvorm kan word. Om my praktiese werk vir die Meestersgraad binne die wyer veld van kontemporêre avant-garde juwelierswarepraktyk te vestig, ondersoek ek ook werk van sekere juweliers wat ook liggaamstowwe in hulle werk gebruik, of daarna verwys. Hierdeur hoop ek om die normatiewe idees van beide die liggaam en juweliersware as versiering uit te pluis.